Just finished painting my valve cover. Thoughts on the idea itself or the artwork?

Hey guys! Just noticed this cut on my tire, kinda worried itll blow, any advice? Should i leave it or replace

Hopefully this isn't a huge deal.... Car was fine this morning, went to drive it home after work, and it won't shift beyond (I believe) 1st gear. It's not struggling to or making any expensive noises, it just stays in that gear and won't shift over at the speed/acceleration I anticipate, or at all. Usually, if I over-accelerate, it jumped up to a higher gear, which is fine, but now I can put the pedal to the metal and it just slowly accelerates. It feels like the car is stuck on the "2" shift setting, below the "D" main drive.

Transmission fluid is healthy and at a good level, no visible leaks, not overheating, and I am able to get into park, reverse, neutral, and the "L" shift setting with no issues, just a little bit of knocking through the settings, but it's an old car and it's no different than what it has been doing.

My first guess is a sensor of some kind, since I was able to drive home without any issues beyond that. I could keep up with traffic, just not responding how it ought to. Give me some leads please!

I’ve seen quite a few aftermarket TPMS kits online, and they’re way cheaper than factory-fitted ones. But how well do they actually work? Are the readings accurate, and do the sensors hold up over time?

If anyone here has used one, how’s your experience been? Is there any major difference compared to factory-fitted TPMS?

I'm currently trying to replace the lower control arms on a 2010 Audi A4 Quattro, and I'm fairly sure the suspension has never been replaced since the car was new. My wife is the third owner, and the car was passed down to us by my dad. That probably explains why the ball joint seems to have seized inside the collar.

I've done suspension work on all our cars before, but this is the first time I've encountered a lower control arm with a collar like this. When I compared the old and new control arms, I noticed that the collar had come out along with the ball joint when I hammered it out.

Now, what's the best way to remove the collar from the old ball joint? Would a ball joint separator work? I've never actually used one since I'm used to just tapping most suspension components loose with my trusty "purse," lol.

As for reinstalling it, I'm thinking of freezing the collar first and heating up the knuckle to make installation easier. Would that work, or is there a better way to go about it?

PS. Currently experiencing THE German engineering lol. I own an Infiniti so I'm chilling

I created an app called Motrona for tracking fuel, maintenance, insurance, repairs, and other vehicle expenses all in one place.

It is available for Android. You can track the expenses of all your vehicles for free. You can also export your existing data to .PDF and .CSV files.

Link:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aleksandarpandov.motrona

Scraped my parents car and I honestly feel so bad and awful. Does anyone have a ball park for how much it would take to fix something like this

Does this look possibly repairable? It’s aluminum alloy rim it has a slight vibration when driving on it

Just got this bad boy leased for $420 a
Month only 3200 down lmk ur thoughts 12k miles.

Hi, just changed the powersteering pump in my 2006 xc90. I extensively bled the system after, but this noise persists. Do you guys think its still cavitating noise or something else? I can hear it only when revving the engine. The powersteering liquid is little bit murky/cloudy but i dont see clear bubbles when bleeding anymore.

Hi,

FYI I am getting a mechanic out to come and assess but just looking for some realistic thoughts on the issue.

My car has started making this noise when I turn it on. The exhaust sounds very loud and low, like a sports car. It’s a 1.2L 2013 Audi A1.

My oil pressure was low and I have topped it up (it was the amber warning light). No warning lights are on now

I won’t drive it while it is making this noise, but wanted to know what the likely cause is?

Thanks

I really like this Honda civic I've seen. But its at 110k miles. Its a 2012 Honda civic 1.8L Automatic. In terms of engine and gearbox, is the car generally reliable?

Getting my car ready for winter I realised there's one thing I haven't really figured out.

I have a Wolfbox jump starter for emergencies, but my car sits outside most nights. Keeping it in the trunk seems convenient until you remember how cold it gets in there.

Bringing it inside every night sounds like a hassle, though. Knowing me, I'd probably forget to put it back in the car the one day i actually need it.

So what do you guys normally do? leave yours in the car all winter, bring it inside during really cold weather, or just check the charge every few weeks?

I'm mostly worried about finding out the battery pack has lost too much power when i'm already stuck somewhere.

Curious what has worked for people who deal with freezing temperatures every winter

My vehicle (diesel 2009 jetta highline) wont go past 2000rpm and has trouble turning over i have 0 clue what could be causing it but my vehicle is also experiencing electrical issues

I was trying to fix my drum brake regulators (sorry for poor english) and the brake line just tore and stayed inside the bolt. Where can i possibly find a replacement for the brake line. It almost happened on the other side but it was copper instead of steel so it didnt break it just bent. Please it is urgent that i fix it since it is my daily.

I just replaced both steering knuckles and now it’s sounding like this. Anyone have a clue why?

yall know what this sound could be coming from? i honestly cant tell if its from the front or back end. i drive a 2004 crv if that helps. if its an issue beyond being annoying, how serious is it?

Only happens at low speeds

Hi

Just looking for some advice on what to do in this situation.

Today I took my car in for its MOT, it failed its first one due to the track rod end ball dust cover and the anti roll bar ball dust cover needing replacing both on the front left side. This work was carried out by the same garage who then passed the MOT and I collect the car this evening.

I left the garage and started to drive home, upon merging on to a parkway I break slightly and the whole car shock violently for around 30 seconds at around 60mph. Fair to say both me and my 4 year old who was in the back were a little spooked!!

Around another 800 meters later I came to a stop at a traffic lights, same shaking when I breaked. Then I could not move! The front left wheel had become completely detached from the steering rod. The RAC came out, reattached the steering rod to get me home and advise I get it looked at again tomorrow.

What should I do about the garage? It seems like a mistake but one that could have ended up very seriously?

Does anyone know what this sound could be coming from? Whenever we turn the ac on blast, it gets even louder. Also, it starts heavily dripping a clear unscented liquid. I’m hoping it’s just the heat plate, but I would love some input!

Lexus is currently repairing my car and provided me with a loaner vehicle in the meantime. Unfortunately, while driving the loaner, I hit a curb, which caused the tire to go flat and scratched the rim.
I’m looking for advice on whether I should pay to repair the damage myself by purchasing a good-quality used tire and having the rim repaired separately, or if I should let the dealership handle the repairs. Which option would be more cost-effective, and what would you recommend given that the loaner agreement states I’m responsible for any damage to the vehicle?

Hey :),

Recently i bought a toyota prius from 2011 (gen 3) with 220.000km on it.

While doing a testdrive the only thing i could feel was that it pulled the the right. i thought oh it just needs an allignment and it will be fine. Oh boy i was wrong.....

Everything i changed and fixed so far:
3 different allignments (one of which by a toyota dealership)
New tires
New rims (were after market now original) this made it a bit better but not fixed
Reset steering angle sensor (while at the toyota dealer but they didnt perfectly center the steering wheel so i might try and do it myself)
Nothing looks bent underneath the car
No electrical faults

So the steering wheel does not return straight when i make a turn. It stays to the right a bit and the car also goes right.

Any idea what it could be?

EDIT: Forgot to mention that the pulling gets less on higher speeds. It's still there but a lot less then slower speeds

Hi everyone,

I bought a 2017 Audi Q5 with around 75,000 km (46,600 miles) and had the front brake discs and pads replaced shortly after purchasing it.

About a month later, the brakes started intermittently making a loud squealing noise when slowing down at speeds below roughly 20 km/h (12 mph). The slightest pressure on the brake pedal can trigger it. The noise is loud, but it only happens occasionally.

I took it to an independent mechanic. They tried to reproduce the noise but couldn't get it to happen at the time, even though it had happened that same morning.

They told me the installation must be fine because the steering wheel doesn't vibrate when braking, and that the noise is purely cosmetic. They also said there is no warranty on wear-and-tear parts. The parts used were genuine Audi parts, and according to the mechanic, Audi doesn't provide a warranty on them because they're consumables.

Could this be caused by the brake pad compound, glazing, or something related to the installation? Would it make sense to replace just the front brake pads with a different brand, such as Zimmermann, while keeping the existing discs?

I'd appreciate any advice or similar experiences. Thanks!