New msrp 7,500
Edit I mean, K cars in general not just trucks

Wix was bought by Mann Hummel and moved production to Mexico between 24/26

Mobil used to be made by Champion Labs but is now made by highline Warren as of 25/26 and many are made over seas such as China and Vietnam

Fram. Basic Fram sucked but their synthetic ones rated well. But they are now out of business.

Valvoline has a a new extended protection filter that seems to be made by premium guard in Vietnam.

For now Puralator is the only U.S. made filter I know of but with Mann Hummel owning them who knows if that will change.

All that being said. What oil filters do you still trust?

Note I own 6 cars across 4 different brands. Oem from testing does the job however often are made cheaper and don’t have synthetic media. The micro count is often very large.

This is my golf mk5 with a 3.6 VR6 engine swap out of a passat r36. It's also manual swapped and the rest of the car is also heavily modded. It's all street legal and TÜV approved here in Germany.

Hope you like it ✌🏼

Picture is at the ultrace event in Poland.

Inherited this jeep and I’ve been cleaning it had been sitting for a year but engine rebuilt few years ago has 500 miles on it. I’ve had to much fun

Came with lots of memorabilia also.

Hey guys, asking for my dad. He’s got a 2013 Toyota Sienna with a small transmission leak and wants to know if throwing in a bottle of BlueDevil Transmission Sealer is okay for the long haul.

Has anyone used this in a Sienna/Toyota automatic? Did it fix the leak long-term, or did it end up ruining other seals/solenoids down the road? Would love to hear your thoughts before he pours it in. Thanks!

I am rebuilding the emergency kit for a family SUV and keep going back and forth between one combo unit like the wolfbox and separate tools. A jump starter with an inflator saves space under the cargo floor, but separate equipment offers some redundancy if one battery or function fails. For people who maintain their kits instead of forgetting them for years, have combo units held up through summer heat and winter cold, or is separating the jobs worth the extra room?

Recently I bought my first car (abarth spider) and my auntie chimes in that the colour reminds her of "the E-type". The E-type in question.

My c4 is making a very strange sound,
The engine light is now red which is fabulous.
My warranty is almost up but I’m hopefully getting them to collect the car this week but I’ve got no idea what it could be and whether the car is well and truly dead.

I recently scratched my car on some railing and I been searching online on what to buy and what to do I’ve been well confused I’ve bought touch up paint , tcut , primer, and automotive masking tape is there anything else I need to fix it and what order should I use each product in I’ve seen varying things online? And also I was told that I should just leave till spring next year because I live in the uk the weathers cold now and the paint won’t dry?

I have ‘23 Subaru Crosstrek with about 56,000 miles on it. I’ve always done oil changes on the normal interval of 6,000 miles.

My wife’s round trip commute to work is only 3 miles which she does 3 days a week. We do 2-3 longer road trips/month(200+ miles) as well as regular driving around town.

Should I switch to the asevere interval (3000-5000 miles)?

The more I look at Model 3 floor mats, the less useful a listing that only says “fits Model 3” seems. Highland-specific sets are out there, which makes me think the exact generation matters more than whatever material name appears in the description. The first thing I’d check is the driver-side shape: whether the liner sits properly at the factory retention area, follows the footwell without an edge lifting into usable space, and keeps the controls completely clear. Rear and cargo coverage matter too, but a mildly annoying gap in the rear is a different kind of problem from getting the driver side wrong. I wouldn’t assume “custom fit” guarantees any of this without physically checking it while the car is parked. Highland owners, which driver-side fit detail would you inspect first before deciding the set is shaped correctly?

(Tagged weird noise bc I actually have a few lil questions, but I’m gonna lead with the main one in title)

So, before anyone says “just don’t do it?” Or asks why I do what I do, I’ll just explain-

I have ADHD & that includes time blindness & anxiety around being late. So, I generally try to be at places up to an hour early, ideally no less than 30min early. When I do that, I’ll park my car (but NOT turn it off or “half off”!) & sit there, with my phone charging while I play on it till my “last minute get out & GO!!!” Alarm sounds.

My battery in my 2014 Kia Rio died. Like… DEAD dead. I had battery die before in my first car (beloved 99 Camry…) but I was able to jump it repeatedly until I PERSONALLY drained all the juice. I wasn’t a big “idler” back then either, but after bein late (& a few tickets…) I became one.

So, I’m wondering if even tho my car is completely on, if that can still lead to my battery dying?

(Other questions to follow, but mind I ain’t a car person so I might not be able to explain them well or elaborate too much, hence why they aren’t their own post bc I wouldn’t know how to title most of them… hope this is okay?)

So, another thing is, my Kia has started generally “shuddering”. Used to just be while idle with the AC on 1 or 2, but would go away when cranked up. Now, & idk if it’s still tied to my AC thing bc it’ll happen even if I have it max or off, but now while DRIVING I’ve noticed my gas peddle kinda wobbling side to side & my wheel too a little bit, and a general “somethin on the inside seems to be rattling a little bit” (sounds like plastic on plastic, but I’ve fully emptied my car/secured everything & still hear the sound somewhere need my wheel) the best comparison I’ve got is like… “jeep death wobble” but NOWHERE near as bad. Any idea why it’s doin this? Is it bad? Or is it “don’t stress until you’re havin to double white knuckle the wheel” type of thing? (Note- am broke, I don’t exactly got money to pour into this thing if it’s a “eh, it’s XYZ & shouldnt be a big problem if you don’t deal with it” thing… but I like knowing things, so I’m askin)

Another is… my AC. When I switch it to the window vents (defrost/defog?) especially with heat, it almost always get stuck like that & wont switch back to my front/passenger facing vents until it has “cooled” off & I’ve switched between where I want it to come out & how much air is blowing through them numerous times… bit of a pain when I get to the time of year where nights are chilly but days are toasty & im having to defog my windshield at night but tryin not to sweat my deodorant off during the day. Sometimes it gets “stuck” faster than others so the last time I took it in they said it switched over fine… but it certainly doesn’t for me. (Never gets stuck in the opposite direction, if that matters)

Oh!!! A fun one- I went from a v6 to a 4 cyl, so idk if this is just what lil 4cyl cars sound like when tryin to get up to speed… but even my parent who had almost the same exact car before I got mine said it sounds bad… basically, when I gas it, I sound like the worlds most annoying little go cart, & lately it has been sounding a lot more… “airy”? “Whistly”? Than before. Is that just “you’re so used to the go cart sound that now you’re noticing the whistling of a dinky lil 4cyl clown car engine fightin to get from 45-75mph” oooooor… is there somethin else goin on?

(Mini pity party here- boohoo I hate my newer car that has no giddyup & the quietest horn ever, I miss my 99 Camry XLE V6 soooo bad that ran on spite when it ran out of oil & never gave me any of these ridiculous issues, Wah Wah Wah)

Lately I've noticed that my driver's-side floor liner creeps forward a few millimeters every week until the top edge lightly touches the back of the clutch pedal when it's pushed to the floor. The factory floor hook is engaged, but there's still a little play near the dead pedal area. I tried putting Velcro strips underneath, but the adhesive came loose in the summer heat. I want to fix the movement safely before it starts interfering with shifts. Is anchor-point alignment or the backing nib texture the main thing that prevents forward creep in manual footwells?

Hey guys, I was in the market for a BMW or Mercedes. I found a decent deal. 2016 Mercedes c450 at 89,000 miles. It’s got the Burmester speakers, carbon bucket seats, panoramic roof, 19 inch multi spoke rims. The seller is asking for $17,000 but she’s willing to drop price. Has anyone had any experience with the c450 or c43 and do you think this would be a good buy. I don’t want to go into a money pit with it being a high mileage car.

Not sure if the oil change is related but my car started making this noise at 120mph the day after an oil change.

Previously, I could drive this speed and faster with absolutely no problems or sounds. This is a brand-new sound.

Sounds almost like a drill.

Obviously, I’m driving the car on the track.

Unfortunately, my Garage is now on holiday that did the oil change so I don’t really wanna pay someone else for a problem they should fix if it is related.

Is this just a loose flap or panel somewhere? Could this be a suspension problem? I have noticed a slight squeak going over bumps recently that also wasn’t there.

Took it to another garage, couldn’t find an issue.

Thanks

My sibling gave me his truck, but it was sitting on flat tires for a few months and this was the result. I'm currently waiting for Costco to ship the tires that I ordered to the warehouse so I get can these changed out asap. However, I am just generally curious, is this a bad level of dry rot? And would this level cause blowouts or flats ... etc? These are Goodyear wrangler fortitude ht's.

My mustang feels like a boat so I can’t even imagine that truck

Driver-side heel wear stops being just cosmetic once dried dirt keeps baking into the scuffed surface. On a crew-cab Tundra used every day for hauling, the large floor pan cleans up quickly with APC and a pressure washer, except for the 4-inch wear circle directly below the gas pedal. Once the textured factory finish wears smooth and work boots leave micro-scratches, road grime and red clay stain that exact patch and won’t come out with normal agitation. The tradeoff with rigid molded liners seems to be tall side-wall coverage that protects the huge footwell versus thinner heel areas that break down quickly under heavy work boots. Does a worn driver heel area permanently hold grime on molded liners, or have you found a good way to clean and seal that high-friction spot?

Ok I noticed white smoke coming out of the front passenger side. I immediatly turned engine off

Not sure exactly what has happened and why

Lasfit and weathertech comparisons get messy pretty quickly because a photo from one vehicle tells you almost nothing about how either set fits a different model year. If I wanted to compare them fairly, I’d choose one dimension and keep everything else the same. Coverage seems like the easiest thing to actually see: same vehicle, same year, same row, same type of set, then check where each liner ends along the door-side edge and the awkward transitions in the footwell. That seems much more useful than combining comments from five different cars and deciding one brand fits better. Material feel, cleaning, and price can be separate discussions later. On the exact same vehicle, which single footwell edge gives the clearest indication that one liner offers more practical coverage?

Hey guys, I was in the market for a BMW or Mercedes. I found a decent deal. 2016 Mercedes c450 at 89,000 miles. It’s got the Burmester speakers, carbon bucket seats, panoramic roof, 19 inch multi spoke rims. The seller is asking for $17,000 but she’s willing to drop price. Has anyone had any experience with the c450 or c43 and do you think this would be a good buy. I don’t want to go into a money pit with it being a high mileage car.

im really struggling to find the rims on this truck i saw at a show, been wanting to buy the same set for my own f150, can someone please help me, the closest thing ive found were these "XT2 Stance Flow Formed rims"

please help

No fuel getting out of high pressure fuel pump after engine rebuild. Fuel metering valve/fuel shut off solenoid gets no voltage. When power probed the solenoid works and all fuses and relays are good. Has anyone got any ideas or had a similar problem before?

Its a 2014 Nissan Rogue Select and the key doesnt work on the door. I believe the lock has been broken.

I was working on my car and locked everything with the battery disconnected. My car only opens with the remote. Now I cant open the hood to reconnect it. Ive tried tugging on the wire and prying with a screwdriver but I can get the hood open.
I tried a slim jim but im not skilled enough to do that. less