Hey all!

I’m still learning to sharpen my kitchen knives, but I feel like I am doing well as I am able to get shaving sharp with a Shapton Pro 1k and a strop with green compound. I want to get a 4-6k finishing/polishing stone, so i’m looking for recs please. I also have a Shapton Pro 320 grit, but I keep my knives sharp and haven’t used it yet. I don’t want to deal with natural stones just yet, so any synthetic recs would be great. I’m fine if a soaking stone is the best, I can learn. I have a mix of steels, (SG2, Blue 2, AS, White 2, VG10, and swedish stainless) so I want one stone that will work with all those materials. I’m looking for something not too expensive, but if you can justify the most expensive is best then I’d probably go with that.

Thank you for the time.

I currently have a SHARPAL fixed angle system, it works good but I am curious how the work sharp Ken onion 1x30 style system is? Honestly like the rest of us I’m a sharpening enthusiast but not a professional, like my mirror finishes and sharp knives but not so much that I want to dedicate stone time to it.

What’s everyone favorite way to sharpen knives to a hair whittling mirror finish that doesn’t take an hour?

Just got a new Sharpal 202H. Everything seemed to be going great until after I formed a bur and flipped the blade. The angle that was perfect on the first side is now WAY off on the second side. Is this thing junk or am I just an idiot? The angle finder is confirming what im seeing.

Hello, my Kershaw dimension that I have EDC’d for 10 years and has been sharpened many times and over time I have made 2 bevels.

Overall the knife is very sharp but is there a way to fix this without taking off to much steel?

I realize I had sharpened at way too low of an angle and that’s what has caused the 2 bevels.

I now have a work-sharp fixed angel sharpening system that I hope to use to correct my issue.

Any help or input is appreciated!

Looking to add 1-2 of these smaller stones to a knife roll mainly for touchups but potentially a bit of actual sharpening. Not the biggest fan of rods for chef knives nor relying solely on a strop for it.

I have a 1x6 in 3k ruby so that's probably the go-to for normal touchups. Thinking something that's versatile and lower grit to compliment it, maybe a 1k dmd diamond resin 1x6 or another brand. I am basically avoiding the temptation to throw in a very low grit stone as I can just bring a full sized if I'm doing significant sharpening for others as a favor.

Mix of cheap stainless (kiwi) up to blue and white steels and probably some random higher end stainless from time to time, nothing extreme as far as materials

At least for me. I have been sharpening my kitchen knives with a shapton kuromaku 1000. I have been able to get them quite sharp, but always lacked that final finish. My edges were always somewhat «rough» to the touch. I recently applied some inexpensive stropping compound (Tormek PA-70) to my leather strop, and boy did that make a big difference for me! Nothing changed in my method, the compound was the only variable. After a few rounds of stropping, I now have shaving edges!

Hi all,

I'm regrinding some chisels on my tormek T8 with the sg-250 stone on it. I had an out of square chisel of 32mm which I wanted to true up and sharpen, but it felt like forever to get to the last tiny bit (top left in the image). Regraded my stone many many times in between.

Question is: how do you speed up your regrinding of these wider chisels? Is the sg-250 stone even the right choice for this work?

Thanks!

Is anyone interested in buying a NANIWA Goken Kagayaki #5000 Sharpening Stone for ROUGHLY 110AUD or 80USD incl shipping? Ive haven't used it once and I can ship worldwide, but the price i stated may increase or decrease, depending on where you are located. By the way, I dont have enough karma to post in r/chefknifeswap and haven't got a response on r/whetstoneswap.

Can anyone help me identify this stone? No markings on the box, or stone. Belonged to my great grand father here in texas

I have sharpen Western Knives before, but this will be my first time sharpening Japanese Carbon Steel knives. I have not really sharpen the tip of knives before, and was wondering how I can sharpen the tip of this Yosikane Gyuto?

This will also be my first sharpening since the knife was first purchased (As you can tell by some minor imperfections on the edge.)

Thank you!

Done in the Hapstone RS with Premium cbn stones and PDTools cbn as my finishing stones (4000 and 10000 grit)

I know this is late in coming, but it's been a busy couple of weeks in the shop. This is an update to my post about the client that sent me a 305lb blunt excavator breaker bar for a chisel point.

My client runs an equipment rental place about 300 miles from me and sends me a lot of stuff like jackhammer bits and great big wood chipper blades. In a very rushed call one day when we were both busy, he gave me the model name of the machine this goes to, asked if I could put a chisel point on it, and like an idiot I agreed before looking up exactly what it was I was accepting. After all, I'd never had a problem with anything he'd sent me before. What could go wrong?

A week later a truck pulls up to my shop, unloads a forklift, and drops off this 305lb chunk of solid steel. I had no idea my client even rented out full-sized excavators. Now I know.

The first thing I did was to give the client a call and discuss that this bar is likely case hardened, and that to cut it down would expose the softer steel core, potentially allowing it to deform when used. Surprisingly, he was fine with that and asked that I go ahead. Well damn.

When I posted here about this originally, I got a lot of ideas like transporting it to a machine shop and somehow hoisting it up to run it on a mill if I could find one big enough. Sorry, but that's just not practical and not happening. No, it was going to have to be old-school.

So the second thing I did was to stare at it for two full days while I worked on other orders, trying to make up my mind how to proceed.

The third thing I did was to contact my guy at Empire Abrasives and lay out my problem. He made some recommendations, and a few days later I took delivery of two boxes of 36 grit zirconia flap disks for my 7 inch, 15 amp angle grinder.

Shout out to Empire: They know their stuff. If you ever need to remove a lot of steel as quickly as possible, zirconia flap disks are absolutely the way to go. Like a knife through case hardened butter they were.

Even so, it was probably 2 1/2 solid hours of grinding before I got it how I wanted it. 2 1/2 hours for which the client paid handsomely, I might add.

And how did I want it? See the attached before, during, and after photos. The client took delivery last week and is thrilled. He still has no idea how much stress he caused me.

I used a chinese diamond plate to fix the tip and then shapton glass 220, shapton rockstar 500, shapton pro 2000 and king 6000 for the bevel. The polish isn't perfect yet, but at least it cuts now.

It definitely got sharper so I'm happy with that. But you can clearly see some scratches etc. Did I do something wrong or is this normal?

Got this yesterday and I’ve never seen a cutting edge quite like this. Looks like maybe multiple bevels? You can see the scratch pattern from outer space. And it’s rough as all get-out.

It is, however, sharp as hell (don’t ask how I know).

Global owners, is this normal?

What should I do with this edge?

Hi all, I have a Cuttermasters HDT-30 cutter grinder (picture is of a similar tool). It is the normal setup with a diamond cup wheel on one axis and an air bearing on the other axis. I use it for sharpening end mills, drill bits, and the like.

I would like to sharpen circular saw blades with it. To do that, I need to replace the air bearing holder with something that holds a circular saw blade in the horizontal plane at the right height and angle relative to the grinding wheel.

I am having a hard time finding this fixture off the shelf -- any leads would be welcome.

워크샤프 프리서전 어드저스트320/600/세라믹

가이드샤프너용 스트롭

사포 1000, 2000, 3000, 5000, 7000방

KOYO 청봉 1마이크론

I have a Sharpal 162N diamond stone and a King 1000/600 whetstone and don’t know which one is optimal. So far I’ve just been using the diamond stone but find I cant get the edge razor sharp, maybe this is my own failure in technique. But I’m wondering if I should use the whetstone instead, or switch between the two? Given these 2 stones what would you do to get the sharpest edge? (I do also have a Sharpal 204N leather strop)

Second day of carrying this knife and dropped it on concrete chipped the edge, how hard will it be to sharpen out?. I kind of suck at sharpening but have a professional precision adjust with diamond stones.

What’s in the box:

·        Case

·        Module

·        Base

·        Tools, sprayer, etc.

·        2-in-1 stone holder

·        Ruixin diamond stones

·        Scissors attachment

·        Tools attachment

What it is:

It’s a modular system that allows you to use it as a fixed-angle sharpener on a base, as a hand-held fixed angle sharpener, as a fixed-angle adjunct for using your own stones, as an angle guide for freehand sharpening.

I have a small collection of beloved folding knives, some meh kitchen knives, a few fancy kitchen knives, and cheap blades I use for sharpening practice. I have done free-hand sharpening for over 50 years. I can always get shaving-sharp, but never hair-whittling sharp. I’ve done fixed angle on Workshop Pro, KME original and KME Precision Control Plus. I’ve used the Anystone for fixed angle with my stones. On fixed-angle, I can always get hair-whittling sharp.

I used the Ruixin to do fixed-angle on its base, fixed-angle on my stones (Sharpal 320/1200, a bunch of Shaptons), and as an angle guide for my freehand.

Bottom line: the system works, is inexpensive, well-made (see some comments below), and versatile. There are some flaws.

What I loved:

1. The price. For what you get, this thing is a bargain. A bit less than the most basic KME, less than half the price of the KME Precision control plus,
2. Overall design and implementation. High quality in almost all components. The modularity is a huge plus.
3. The blade holders are robust and stiff. Your knife will not move during sharpening. You don’t need an extra tool to stiffen the holder the way you do with the Worksharp and the KME.
4. The blade holders allow you to readily get down below 10 degrees per side (dps). KME cannot be used to put low angle bevels on paring or petty knives.
5. Using the module as a fixed-angle fixture for using your own stones is excellent. WAY better than the Anystone, which is difficult to use for angles lower than 20 dps. It’s solid.
6. Using the indicator from the module as an angle guide for freehand is excellent. It’s just responsive enough to pick up my habit of rolling my wrists about 1 degree on the last bit without being overly bouncy. (The usual caveat about correcting the displayed angle by primary bevel angle applies).
7. The angle-setting method is incredibly clever and works remarkably well. A thing that is really cool is that the method also gives you stone thickness compensation – if you change to a stone of different thickness, adjust the rack-and-pinion for level. No extra fixturing needed. The manual is a bit opaque on the method, but here it goes:
   1. Level the base with the two knobs and bubble level on the base.
   2. Tilt the module until the indicator shows the desired dps.
   3. Lock the module.
   4. Rest the stone on the knife.
   5. Adjust the module height rack-and-pinion until the bubble level on the stone holder reads level.
8. The case. Compact, well-made.
9. The 2-in-1 stone holder does a great job with either the supplied stones, as well as with my 6x1 Venev set and my KME 6x1 set.
10. The president a Ruixin has a strong presence on Reddit and really cares about his customers and products.

What I liked a bit less (minor issues that can be lived with – particularly given the price point):

1. The pitch of the angle-setting rack-and-pinion is coarser than I like. You can adjust the tension on this, but it’s still a bit rough for setting a precise angle.
2. The stones. The abrasive stone does not reach the sides of the material in which it’s embedded. This means that if you’re sharpening a knife with a plunge grind and no choil, you can’t quite get to the plunge for sharpening. Similarly, for my Wusthoff (cheap but favorite) paring knife, where the edge comes all the way up to the edge of the plastic handle. I didn’t really care for the feel of the stones. Then again, I’m spoiled and have some premium stones. This is also a matter of personal preference and what one is used to.
3. When using the module as a fixture for fixed angle with your own stones, I found that I really needed to raise the stone quite a bit to get the angles I wanted.
4. The plating on the T-wrench delaminated at the tool end.

Things I really didn’t like:

This is the painful one. I hated the 2-in-1 stone holder that came with the kit. When sharpening near the far end of a stone – particularly when reprofiling – the amount of friction was terrible. After a lot of working and looking and trial-and-error, I did come up with a procedure for significantly improving the feel. There are two plastic linear bearings on two mounts. The mount I call the outer mount has the cutout for the stone. The mount I call the inner mount has no cutout for the stone. Loosen the set screws holding the two mounts in place. Leave the outer mount in its location but loosened. Slide the inner mount all the way up to the outer mount. Tighten the inner mount set screw. Tighten the outer mount set screw. Loosen the inner mount set screw, and slide it away a couple of inches, then tighten the set screw. Huge improvement.

I received a second 2-in-1 holder from Ruixin. I found that holder to be a little bit better than the original before I adjusted it. After adjustment, both holders performed about the same. Not great. Not quite awful, but not great. Toward the end of the stone, the feedback and feel is… not good.

I received a set of linear bearings with ball bearings from Ruixin and installed them on one of the holders. There is absolutely no binding of any kind when stressing the holder. Far less feeling of friction near the end of the stone, but still not great, indicating a geometry issue. Clearly better than with the plastic bearings, but not great.

I had a hypothesis that the issue with the bearings was an overconstraint issue, so I took one of the plastic bearings and turned it to reduce the outer diameter by 0.2 mm, so it can “float” in the bearing mount. I tried this in the inner bearing mount and the outer bearing mount. The outer bearing mount was better. It had a bit more friction when stressing the stone holder off the system than with the ball bearings. When mounted on the system, it was essentially identical to the ball bearing holder in actual use.

After the bearing modification (which you can do at home with sandpaper), the stone holder is marginally acceptable in my opinion.

DISCLAIMER: I am not affiliated with any knife manufacturer, sharpening system manufacturer, abrasives manufacturer, etc. I paid for my kit personally on Kickstarter. I DID receive a second stone holder, precision bearings, replacement wrench and advice from Ruixin.

Processing img mvormepea1xh1...

Processing img 88272fpea1xh1...

Processing img 2tqxxepea1xh1...

Processing img ery5fgpea1xh1...

Processing img i2tyzepea1xh1...

Sorry I know a million posts on this. Read the wiki and read through 80 posts and still confused as there are many ways to skin a cat

Seems like either of these aren’t a bad choice?

Shapton pro kuromaku 320/1000

Naniwa basic multistone 220/1000

Which would you pick? Do I need a lapping plate? Which one as there are so many options

Can you help me pick a setup?

Dear community, please help me.

Why does my Atoma 400 (diamond plate with handle) flatten not so wel compared to my Naniwa 220 flattening stone? I would assume diamond plates work way better, right?

For my regular sharpening session (for others) I have shapton 320, 1000, 5000 and 12.000 grid. Sometimes these need to be flattened (especially the 320, cause I use it the most). I use a pencil on the surface to see how much flattening is needed and am using the Atoma 400 with handle.
But it seems that the Atoma produces more fine sticky slurry. This creates a kinda of vacuum when flattening + seems to fill my 320 plate which makes it way less abrasive.

When using the Naniwa 220, it goes way quicker and I don’t have the problem of the fine slurry. No vacuum and not filling up my 320 plate.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

Absolute noob here so go easy. Please post the best very very basic technique videos you are aware of. Just basic how to hold the knife in general while sharpening, How to hold the knife at the proper blade angle so it stays at that angle throughout the process, which direction to sharpen in, about how many passes, how to feel the edge with your finger both before and after, what to look for. That kind of really really basic stuff.

I have kitchen knives and pocket knives that need sharpening and I want to learn whetstone sharpening. I bought a Sharpal 156N stone and a Sharpal 205H strop so that's what I plan on using. I'm sure these are quality items that will at least get me started.

I have watched videos and some like dry stones, some like splash and go or ones you have to soak. And some even use some kind of oil while sharpening. I've seen straight passes on the stone where they sharpen in sections (heel, middle, tip), straight passes where they pivot or curve the blade across the stone so it all gets done in one pass, and even people who go back and forth instead of straight passes. I even saw one person who swirled the knife in circular patterns across the stone. I've seen people who say you absolutely need compound when you strop and those who say compound doesn't do that much. It's enough to make your head spin.

I have gone too deep too fast down this rabbit hole and That's on me. So I need a reset. I know all these different techniques likely work on some level, and I need to stop overthinking, pick a method and get on with it. So point me to some very basic beginner whetstone technique videos. Thank you, all.