i guess that's what you get for 2 quids/buck. Ai stone cutting performance!

I sharpen knives at a knife shop in Japan. These are my friend's knives, not the shop's.
My friend moved to the countryside and found an old yanagiba and deba in a storage shed. Both were covered in rust, and he asked me to fix them.
You can still see some rust marks. That was on purpose. The knives are old, and I didn't want to remove more steel than I needed to just to make them look perfect.
Photos 2 and 4 show the back (ura) of each knife after I fixed the uraoshi.
Happy to answer any questions about single-bevel knives.

I'm just starting out with the precision adjust elite. I did a cheap OTF with pretty good results. I have a spyderco pm2 with chips near the tip and started on it. I started with the 320 diamond as I have a good bit to remove before I get to the bottom of the chips. After working the first side for a bit, I checked it and noticed a bunch of single line scratches through the DLC coating far above where they should be. I assume the only way this is possible is if a big chunk of the 320 diamond grit was standing up proud. It was definitely well broken in with the slim OTF blade I did before. Just looking for some tips on how to proceed. It's a work knife and the scratches aren't that big of a deal. Although I have beat it up and almost nothing has touched the DLC and it still looked great. I'm more worried for when I do a nicer knife in the future. I would like to prevent this from continuing because eventually it's going to look really bad.

Afiando a faca de casa com a pedra da relíquia, dupla face 220/1000. Por ser uma pedra nacional ela tem muita qualidade e logo logo chega as pedras da linha profissional deles

My wife damaged this knife that belongs to our son. Can this be ground out?

I.e. those rascally folks who are privy to alternating hand, unidirectional sharpening.

I started practicing this a few years ago and I never looked back - every time I got on the stones or plates it was another opportunity to practice - so I did. Right hand build a burr on the show side, left hand build a burr on the reverse side, then start chasing scratch patterns and alternate light passes between left and right - always starting at the top of the stone and grinding downward.

I've read that some who do this prefer to always start at the bottom and maintain a pushing motion towards the top - I am the opposite.

Regardless, it's now the default method for manual sharpenings.

Who else sharpens ambidextrously/alternating hands?

Really nice sharpening stone with excellent cutting speed. It handles high-carbide steels without any issues and removes material much faster than I expected. The stone feels consistent across the surface and produces a nice scratch pattern that is easy to work with during progression. I especially like it for super steels where some other stones can feel slow or ineffective. The vitrified bond seems to do a great job keeping the diamonds cutting efficiently. The price for this is extremely reasonable too for the quality of this stone

I work in a machine shop. When I get a new knife I bring it to work (I know, I've cleared it with management and my cow-orkers already think I'm a bit bugnutty so no issues) and round over the back of the blade and the top, making it more comfortable.

Here's my last caidao.

Haven't lapped them again since I got them. How often do you lap yours?

I am looking for a splash and go stone between my Debado 200 and Shapton glas 500. I dont like the coarser shapon glas/rockstar stones, so I am am inclined to buy a Shapton pro 320 but dont trust shaptons grit grading. Is it a good fit for my purpose? What other stones would you recommend?

I was sharpening a knife and got it really sharp but these streaks appeared for some reason and I dont know why and I cant find anyone talk about this. I am uaing to much preassure or is there another reason.

i don't know which to choose and i haven't found a lot of information to really compare the two.

the grit combos are similar but are they really? i have no experience with these types of stones.

the only thing i read is that diamond resin stones last longer.

what would you recommend? it's for pocket and kitchen knives

My K4 arrived today and damn this thing is a beautiful piece of machinery. The design is very well executed from the quick clamps to the height adjuster that let you set up the angle extremely fast with one hand. Definitely worth the price tag.

Bored and decided to mirror finish this D2 Iridium all in all took about 10 minutes each side. All the buffing compounds I have are either aluminum oxide or some kind of silicate which I figured wouldn’t be happy with the carbides in this knife. Had some 7 and 1.5 micron diamond emulsion from worksharp and they did the job beautifully

Need some help with sharpening with stones past 600grit. After 600 I have trouble really feeling the burr when I start to minimize my sharpening passes before I go on to the next stone. Should I just keep sharpening until I feel a definitive burr or is this something that is just earned through time and xp? Also I am using the TSPROF K4 with the stone they came with. Also don't have any issues with the lower grit as it's easy to detect burr.

Anyone ever use the Ken Onion work sharp blade grinder attachment to thin? Curious if it's possible and which side did you use. I have the first version

Got an email today code OSTRO will get you 10% off all non-sale items, so if you've been in the fence good time to pick one up. Usually 5% is the highest code they have available.

Kadet system prices with the code just for reference:

Kadet K2 (Preorder) - $448.20

Kadet Pro GE - $403.20

Doesn't work on the Pioneer as it appears to be listed as a sale price. Is working on non-sale clamps/accessories from what I can tell.

In a prior life I got into straight razor shaving and got this strop but never really used it. How can i best utilize this for knife sharpening? I don't have any strops right now and just bought the Sharpal 162N. I'm guessing the wavy parts are no good. Should I cut the good parts and glue them on some wood? Something else? Trash?

Hi everyone,

I pulled the trigger today on a Tormek T8, with the default configuration. I plan on using it for my own and my relatives chisels and planes, but also considering going down the rabbit hole on knife sharpening. Im seeing insane results on this sub, you guys should be proud.

My question is: is this Tormek with the right jigs a viable option for this? Will it be a good basis for achieving these crazy sharp results? But also: what gear should be high on my wishlist?

Thanks so much!

So im looking to get a new stone and really dk which direction to go next. Ive considered quite a few different ones (shapton, naniwa, king, neeves stones) and i just dk which would be best suited for me. Atm i have the sharpal 325/1200 and the 220/600 and i use both of those very frequently. Ill mainly be sharpening pocket knives and a few kitchen knives. Should i get ceramic? Cbn? Silicone carbide? Any suggestions, ones that i mentioned or otherwise