3d printed body (custom mounts and wheels) over Tamiya tt-02r chassis and 85A Spektrum ESC.

I wrote some firmware for my Futaba doc remote control board that allows it to connect via CRSF to a Radiomaster ELRS module. Then I wanted to translate motor RPM data into a scaled MPH to display on the remote, but realized that the Spektrum SRXL2 protocol didnt communicate telemetry with my ELRS RA6 receiver, so I wrote firmware for the receiver to do that. Now I can get the speed and other telemetry on the remote segment display!

Up to 8 switches can be wired and mapped on the remote. Currently I have the stop switch/light mapped to arm throttle, one to headlights, another to flux bands, reverse, and high speed mode 💀

The next step is to get it to turn on the flux bands and the time travel sound when reaching 88mph 🤣

Some of the emblems came in so I put the trunk ones on, got 2 of the wheels fully assembled, just waiting for my electric kettle so I can mount the tires, front and rear springs arrived, big bore Yoko's should be here Tuesday. I found a dude that makes a 1/10 scale dash, so I'll be spending a lot of time on that when it gets here. Got a metal spur and adaptor installed and got a set of "steelies" for some "end of event" pictures🤣🤣

Tires at their end of life

Howdy folks

I’m wanting some opinions from others who had multiple RC cars from all over the board. I’m wanting to have 1 radio for all my cars, I hate having 8 laying around.

I’d like one that’s good with bashing,nitros and crawling. I don’t mind price, I’ll spend good money for something worth my wild!

Thanks a lot, have a good weekend

My MJX Hyper Go 12212 (first hobby grade rc car btw) has great suspension but it leaks oil. The shop where i bought it from recommended me to put a high density oil rather than replacing the whole suspensions, I still tried to look for a new setup but on amazon i couldn’t find anything that is 87mm size and good for bashing. What should I do?

Quick note: I never did extreme jumps, just normal bashing

With aftermarket wheels/tires (discontinued SEES Champ 500s & IMEX "Pullers"). And yellow plastic parts from a Tamiya Bullhead to replace the stock dark blue. Got this as a Christmas present from my parents ('23) and built it while taking care of Great Aunt the following Spring, will always be a special truck to me.

Took my TRX-4 out for the first time this season.

So yesterday a friend randomly brought his Traxxas Stampede (I think?) with him to the garage when we were working on actual cars haha. That reminded me I also had a Traxxas Rustler that I got when I was 11 or something years ago (now 25) so Its been laying in storage for many years, the sand from back then still on it haha.

I remember dusting it of a little but obviously I was just a kid and I didn't know much about it, had a lot of fun with it though.

So today I digged it up and tried charging the old batteries and gave it a spin. Seems like everything works fine but I was wondering if there's anything I need to do or keep in mind for maintenance after it laying in the house somewhere for 15 years haha

I went down the rabbit hole and noticed these are still quite popular and not much about them has changed after all these years, interesting!

Thx

Scx30 tocoma chassis
Mini z d90 body pre-painted in Phoenix orange

I used the design of the ramp from HERE and I made it bigger to fit the Kraton 6s better. Its 42" wide and 46" long. The top of the ramp is 23" so I have my 2:1 ratio but really the problem is the middle isn't under enough tension.

As you can see on the video, its too wobbly and just bounces the Kraton off. The front of the ramp has a 12" piece start a nice transition from the ground so thats perfect. I really need a way to secure the middle in a way that I can set and then remove or a solution that allows the ramp to fold down as needed.

Thoughts, ideas? Thanks.

Hello there

I've got a quattro tamiya and I really enjoyed assembling it although I suck at painting the shell lol, it got me thinking though, has anyone managed to make their own body shells? I assume with 3d printing might be easier?

First time poster. Need some help figuring out a fault warning I’m getting with a XC esc.

The setup is XC E10 esc, Pyfore 3674 motor 2600kv, and noble nb4+ with the receiver that comes in the box.

My esc started beeping red 2x, then green 2x. Manual says this is a: fault warning - abnormal sampling circuit of current.

Here’s what I’ve tested so far:
- main power short in continuity mode, beeps for a second and then appears to be OL
- mosfets: it beeps initially but they measure 0.425 when connected to positive
- BEC / receiver voltage output (powered) test gives me a reading of 0v when turning on the car, motor unplugged, and testing channel 2 positive and negative from receiver
- motor windings show 0.013 ohms using my DE-5000 LCR meter

What’s interesting is the fault seems intermittent. When I let it sit, first power up it seems to work fine for a few minutes but then I lose brakes but it still runs. Power cycle it and the esc goes into fault mode, no fwd brake or rev but servo still works.

Any ideas what is going on, what I should test next, what I’m overlooking?

May need to send it in but it’s out of warranty window, purchased on Amazon. Does anybody have experience doing this or should I cut my losses and buy another if I can’t fix?

My tlr losi 22 cars

rc tractors main body done time to do some little things then she will be done

Will do brass and the free mods, what mods and upgrades do you recommend for this to be more capable on a long trail?

I built the Hornet evo recently mainly for nostalgia..

Compared to a similar priced RTR its arguably a terrible buggy on every metric..

I'm actually quite disapointed in its speed, handling and fragileness.

Its driveshafts dont even quite fit properly out of the box and will jam repeatedly..

RIP tamiya..

Stadium Truck body acts as a parachute at high speed, and will often lift the front wheels. Cardboard floor and zip tied suspension increased my previous top speed from 74-82km/h. Bone stock 3S, other than tyres.

Very much not it's intended purpose, still a blast

Hi,
I have an old SG futura III
I have taken it apart, but i cant see how to take the wheels of, something might be stuck, but may need some help.

Anybody that know.

Is old, from the late 70’s

Except for cooling upgrades, what are things I should look out for when things break or for performance reasons?
I’ve looked at suspension, skid plates, and tires. I’ve gotten none of those upgrades, what would you recommend

I know this question has been asked many times, but responses have been mixed and my situation is different. I plan to drive the mini around my house with not much open space and tight turns. I need the car to turn very quickly or else it will just bump into walls.

sup yall , so Ive recently just got into this hobby few weeks ago started with buying a hyper go 1/14 off of amazon for me and my son and just fell in love with rc so ive been thinking about making a big purchase and buy a arrma kraton 6s. the question is would that be a bad idea

It worked for 1 min and now it’s doing this