This is an actual hypothetical. If you were looking to get a Nissan Leaf and were planning to replace the battery as soon as you bought it, what would you pay for the rest of the car? Would you even buy the rest of the car or would you look for something else instead?

Say you were lucky enough to get an AZE0 SV or SL trim for $1000 in great condition, just no battery, so you pick-up the 62kw vivne battery. It would be around $9k for a leaf with with around ~200mi range.

Or you could look for a used, Chevy Bolt, or Tesla, or something else with a properly cooled battery for a few grand more, maybe even the same price.

Got a 2021 leaf this week. The battery health icon on the main screen has the full grey bar so I thought the battery health was good. It has 60k miles which is fine for a 5 year old car. The car was on 60%. I had eco mode on. I don't remember the range but it was over 60 miles. The trip I wanted to do was 12.5 miles each way but it had some hills. All the roads are 60. It's my GFs car so she drove there at 40mph as she's just passed her test and conditions were wet and dark. When we got there it said it was on 41%. That was a 20% drop in just 12 miles.

Then I drove home. I also drove at 40 because the battery was being weird on the way there. As I was driving, any hill would knock the battery down by about 10%. I never did over 40mph and stayed between 30 and 40. When I got to a hill near the end, it went down to 3% which was very scary. Then for the next 3 miles it was 5-10% until I got to my house when it jumped up to 17%.

Am I doing something wrong, why does it fluxuate so much. I turned heating features and the fans off to save power. I had android auto connected. Anything else I should do? I'm scared that if I'm on the way home, even if I have 15% left I'm going to go up a hill and the battery will die. I'm seriously considering returning the car and getting a petrol automatic. I'm new to EVs so maybe this I'm doing something wrong or maybe this is just how they are

The first pic is the battery at the place I went. The second is a pic I took when I got home, 12.5 miles later. As you can see by the clock, it was only a 25 mins journey at 40mph

No rear window wiper. What the fuck? Am i supposed to drive blind every time it rains because Nissan wants to save 5 bucks per car.
Makes no sense and truly the more surprising thing about this car

Seems like a good price and low miles… but how do I verify if this will get to 100k+ miles?

Hey everyone, I’ve got a 2026 Leaf Platinum. I’m in Canada. My NissanConnect services don’t seem to work. I’ve already checked with the dealership and called support, but they’re stumped. Is there any way to get it working so I can control the car's temperature? Does anyone have any advice? I did work for the first 3 month and since july its stuck with the kilometers that were in July, its not transmitting the new data and it just says unable to connect to the vehicle when i try to do anything with the app

2017 Leaf S /w 120K miles. 7/12 health bars. 1,500 quick charges.

Recently I had the luxury of re-building my entire front end because im too broke for the mechanic. It originally was going to be just a few parts, but once I got in I decided to do the rest of it. If a dudes whos partly disabled from a moped accident can do it; you can too! The main things I was looking to correct was:

-The axle click plague (cars had this most of its life with no fix)

-Recently, Click/heavy metal sound/shift on on heavier stop/acell (not axle). Most likely lower control arm bushings

-Cars bouncy and feeling slightly more sloppy than usual even with new struts and rear shocks. Spoiler its probs the lower control arms.

-At very low speeds, usually when initially backing up or moving forward, tapping sound that matches speed. Sounds like brakes. Random on when it shows up.

-Very uneven pad wear. Inner brake pad wears much faster than outer. I think if these pads didnt wear unevenly and I checked them earlier they would of lasted at least 200K.

Need less to say she needed some work. Ill list all the parts below. If you are USA and look to DIY any of this I recommend to get your parts from Rock Auto. Cheap parts, fast and cheap shipping, and hasn't let me down yet.

I accidentally bought two boxes of brakes so I sadly now have new front brakes for the next half a million miles.

SOME TIPS:

-I ended up buying new knuckles that where painted because the old ball joint studs where rust seized to the knuckle. I tried everything but heat and physically cutting to try and get them apart. They're not that expensive and can save you a lot of time.

-To get the speed sensors out I took the wheel hub out, sprayed both ends with PB blaster, waited 10 mins, and took a small screwdriver to pry around the edges to break it free. Then pry it out. The wire goes behind the plastic in the wheel well to a connector. Or just leave it connected and out of the way.

-The passenger CV axle has a carrier bearing. You wont be able to pull it right out like the driver side. Que me trying to King Kong that thing out slamming it back and forward and wondering why its not budging. Under the car you just take out a few bolts and the bracket comes right off.

-I used a C clamp and the old brake pad to push the brake pistons back. Its a little weird since you cant position the c clamp directly behind the piston due to the brake hose connector being there, but its possible without too much of a struggle. Be sure to watch your brake fluid level as you do this so it dont overflow. Also remember when you pump the brakes for the first time, it will take some fluid with it so keep the brake fluid slightly above the max mark.

-The differential seal that you replace with your CV axles is different for each side. Part number 38342-8E000 and 38342-8E001. I didnt personally replace them because I had no easy way or proper tool to get them out. Guess we're going to stress test those OEM seals. I did buy and confirm the new part though.

-I had to cutoff the swaybar end links, grind down the bolt, then punch it through. Nissan made sure the OEM's are hell to get off even after you cut them off. I'd recommend to try PB blaster and, if that doesnt work, heat with an impact first. Top bolt should be easier than bottom bolt.

-EXPERIMENTAL: I think the uneven wear between the inner and outer brake pads is due to the bottom sliding pin. The bottom one has a rubber bit at the end to help vibrations, noise, and perhaps stabilize everything. No matter what I did I couldnt get this thing to slide easily, even with all new hardware. Instead i put the new all metal top pins in the bottom and called it a day. Kept old top pins. So far they seem to be fine. I gave them a wiggle and compared to the top bores they feel the same in the bottom. Should work fine. We'll see in time. Dont get sliding pin boots for cheap or from rock auto. they are junk. Only ones I've found so far that are decent are duralast ones.

After doing the brakes remember to give the pedal a handful of full pumps to get it stiff before you drive. Preferably with the vehicle off still. Back up/down the driveway and use the brakes once its ready to drive and back together. Then calibrate the brakes:

-Cars on and in park

-Turn traction control off

-Press the pedal down all the way for 30 secs

-Give it a few light pumps.

Done

-Remember to not torque your control arm bushings in the air. I just got them on with a crescent wrench and 3/8 ratchet. Then when on the ground used my 1/2 inch torque wrench to get them to spec.

-Remember to get an alignment afterwards. Cost me 160 dollars at Nissan

RESULTS:

-Im still waiting on a new axle nut but I put the old one on at 100 ft-lbs. Greased the splines. Little to no axle click now. I've only driven it twice so far and my brains used to drowning out the click, so its hard to tell yet but it seems gone or mostly gone. Ill update on what it does with the new nuts at 110 ft-lbs.

-Car is VERY stable. I actually cant believe how little new struts/rear shocks did but new control arms and sway bar links made it feel solid and removed all the bounciness. I'd look at the control arms first before the shocks/struts.

-No noise on backing up/forward at very low speeds. No clunk at a slightly harder stop/accell.

REMAINING WORK:

Needs new swaybar bushings. But the only symptom of this is extra noise on holes and, maybe, noise in winter.

Phew. Hopefully one of my tires doesnt fall off within the next week and I dont need to touch the car for another 100K+ miles. Besides maybe the battery

PARTS from rock auto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6260928&cc=3435389&pt=1636

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15758541&cc=3435389&pt=10281

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=16670725&cc=3435389&pt=1896

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11674989&cc=3435389&pt=15174

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11674993&cc=3435389&pt=15174

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6361152&cc=3435389&pt=1684

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8093136&cc=3435389&pt=10401

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8092660&cc=3435389&pt=10401

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8629932&cc=3435389&pt=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11179313&cc=3435389&pt=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12491897&cc=3435389&pt=7496

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12491901&cc=3435389&pt=7496

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4760409&cc=3435389&pt=7428

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4760811&cc=3435389&pt=7428

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5627706&cc=3435389&pt=7580

What’s a battery like this worth in your area ? 2013. No quick charges - from a northern climate. Runs 55 miles in ideal summer conditions with 31% left. What can I get to offset the cost of a new pack (I need more range in winter )

Hi,

Looking at getting an EV as our next car.

Our budget is 12K approx.

It seems that the Leaf is the big contender at this price where I live in EU.

I am aware of the Leafs weaknesses like the public Chademo charger being phased out (at least where I live) and the passive battery cooling. However I hopefully plan to mostly trickle charge at night.

Would really want to safely do a 100KM round trip safely without charging and a few K to spare for peace of mind. That would be a once a week type trip. Our daily use is more like 20k a day max.

I'm thinking a relatively healthy 40Kw battery would suffice.

For longer trips we can borrow a family ICE although I'm not adverse to stopping for half an hour and fast charging occasionally.

Thanks, all your ideas and opinions appreciated.

Thank you so much for everyone’s help with this! I went back to the dealer and after quoting the Consumer Rights Act to them, they ended up agreeing to buy back the car. I’m now on the lookout for a replacement but I’m too scared to go for another 40kWh Leaf after being stung on this

Hi All:

We'd like to keep our 2024 cargo area looking nice, but we still need to haul bags of mulch and topsoil. The only thing that we've found specifically for the Leaf is a WeatherTech pan, but this doesn't really protect the sides or the back of the seats. (And it's pricey) Has anyone found a "pet liner" sort of thing that fits their Leaf? Thanks in advance.

The my Nissan app has stopped showing the battery amount for my 2020 Nissan leaf a couple of weeks ago. I assumed it was a problem on their end but it hasn't started working again. I have the battery manager module so I don't think that's the problem. Has anyone else has the same problem or does anyone know of a fix?

TIA

Today while driving to work my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and said "Service Battery, power reduced". The leaf protected itself and put it into "limp mode" only allowing me to go 20mph tops. I pulled over and had it towed to the dealership, thinking that I had just overheated the inverter by driving it a little to hard in the early morning.

Just got the call from the dealership, the car has the "code of death" and the only way to fix it was to replace the battery but "Nissan isn't offering replacement packs". The dealer mentioned something about it being tied to the ongoing Level 3 charging recall and that I should expect a call for a buy-back.

I am this car's second owner, it has about 30k miles on it and never DC fast charged it so I'm not sure how the recall is related. Have any of you experienced this?

Just got a 2013 lezf last month, going over the owners manual, found statement saying only 4 keys can be registered and used on one vehicle, whats up with that? Appreciate any info thanks

Idk what I'm getting myself into here. I don't know the first thing about these or electric cars at all. I know she bought it, was disappointed because the seller lied about it's range. She/they drove it briefly and then moved on. Registration (California) is 3 years out of date but she thinks she non-opped it.

She's offering me the car for free. Just come get it.

Not asking to be spoon fed here (please spoon feed me!)

46k miles on the car I think.

CPO with only 3,200 miles on it! Still about 2 years of full warranty left. $19K. Victorville, CA.

That's a pretty good deal, IMO.

Did you do anything to get your buyback offer faster? Morley has had our paperwork for over a month (I think 45 days) and now the dealer is pushing for us to return loaner (our car has been at the dealer since early this year). We've made every payment on time on a car we can't use, are paying for gas, and cooperated at all points so this is just unbelievably frustrating.

2014 Nissan Leaf. Possibly total loss in an accident without collision coverage. How could I sell it best for salvage value, how much is it worth? I can add more photos for under the car to give a better view of whether the battery is still intact ? It had 10 bars.

Second hand, out of warranty due to millage. Was working fine when I bought it, highway driving no issue.

For the least month or so it has been fluctuating from 40% to 0% underload, then 50% to 0, now 65%... I charged it to 100 overnight and going on the freely it dropped from 97% to -- and to turtle mode immediately.

The car is pretty "worthless" in terms of reselling due to the high mileage (250,000km); and putting in a new battery of the same kWh is more than 2x the residual value that it's insured for.

Has anyone been in the same situation and replaced a singular module? Or is it pretty much new battery or the degradation continues.

Bought the car a month and a half ago 2017 leaf S. Owner provided nissan documentation of a new battery installed in December 2024 and it was driven 5k miles after the install. Gemini says this should last me about 10 years considering my driving commute (20 mi rt) but I know theres something shes missing and this sub will tell me.

hello! when i bought my leaf a couple months ago it had this thing on it, my dad said it might be a GPS tracker but I was thinking it was one of those things that connects to leafspy. I want to get the app so I hope it is

I had an independent pre-purchase inspection done on a 2021 40Kwh Leaf on sale at a reputable dealership. The inspection, using a standard OBD tool, apparently showed a "battery temperature and resistance outside manufacturer specifications" fault, however the inspector has refused to elaborate any further.

LeafSpy shows normal indications and temps, SOH is 85% and 14mV. I test drove it and turned the heater up to 27°C, both seat warmers on high, and drove it on the motorway at 100km/h in 18°C weather, and the battery temp indicator on the dashboard showed it was below the middle level.

The dealership has sent the car to a local EV specialist for further testing to try and see what's going on. Anyone else experienced this before? Is there a chance the OBD reading was incorrect?

Thanks!