2017 Leaf S /w 120K miles. 7/12 health bars. 1,500 quick charges.

Recently I had the luxury of re-building my entire front end because im too broke for the mechanic. It originally was going to be just a few parts, but once I got in I decided to do the rest of it. If a dudes whos partly disabled from a moped accident can do it; you can too! The main things I was looking to correct was:

-The axle click plague (cars had this most of its life with no fix)

-Recently, Click/heavy metal sound/shift on on heavier stop/acell (not axle). Most likely lower control arm bushings

-Cars bouncy and feeling slightly more sloppy than usual even with new struts and rear shocks. Spoiler its probs the lower control arms.

-At very low speeds, usually when initially backing up or moving forward, tapping sound that matches speed. Sounds like brakes. Random on when it shows up.

-Very uneven pad wear. Inner brake pad wears much faster than outer. I think if these pads didnt wear unevenly and I checked them earlier they would of lasted at least 200K.

Need less to say she needed some work. Ill list all the parts below. If you are USA and look to DIY any of this I recommend to get your parts from Rock Auto. Cheap parts, fast and cheap shipping, and hasn't let me down yet.

I accidentally bought two boxes of brakes so I sadly now have new front brakes for the next half a million miles.

SOME TIPS:

-I ended up buying new knuckles that where painted because the old ball joint studs where rust seized to the knuckle. I tried everything but heat and physically cutting to try and get them apart. They're not that expensive and can save you a lot of time.

-To get the speed sensors out I took the wheel hub out, sprayed both ends with PB blaster, waited 10 mins, and took a small screwdriver to pry around the edges to break it free. Then pry it out. The wire goes behind the plastic in the wheel well to a connector. Or just leave it connected and out of the way.

-The passenger CV axle has a carrier bearing. You wont be able to pull it right out like the driver side. Que me trying to King Kong that thing out slamming it back and forward and wondering why its not budging. Under the car you just take out a few bolts and the bracket comes right off.

-I used a C clamp and the old brake pad to push the brake pistons back. Its a little weird since you cant position the c clamp directly behind the piston due to the brake hose connector being there, but its possible without too much of a struggle. Be sure to watch your brake fluid level as you do this so it dont overflow. Also remember when you pump the brakes for the first time, it will take some fluid with it so keep the brake fluid slightly above the max mark.

-The differential seal that you replace with your CV axles is different for each side. Part number 38342-8E000 and 38342-8E001. I didnt personally replace them because I had no easy way or proper tool to get them out. Guess we're going to stress test those OEM seals. I did buy and confirm the new part though.

-I had to cutoff the swaybar end links, grind down the bolt, then punch it through. Nissan made sure the OEM's are hell to get off even after you cut them off. I'd recommend to try PB blaster and, if that doesnt work, heat with an impact first. Top bolt should be easier than bottom bolt.

-EXPERIMENTAL: I think the uneven wear between the inner and outer brake pads is due to the bottom sliding pin. The bottom one has a rubber bit at the end to help vibrations, noise, and perhaps stabilize everything. No matter what I did I couldnt get this thing to slide easily, even with all new hardware. Instead i put the new all metal top pins in the bottom and called it a day. Kept old top pins. So far they seem to be fine. I gave them a wiggle and compared to the top bores they feel the same in the bottom. Should work fine. We'll see in time. Dont get sliding pin boots for cheap or from rock auto. they are junk. Only ones I've found so far that are decent are duralast ones.

After doing the brakes remember to give the pedal a handful of full pumps to get it stiff before you drive. Preferably with the vehicle off still. Back up/down the driveway and use the brakes once its ready to drive and back together. Then calibrate the brakes:

-Cars on and in park

-Turn traction control off

-Press the pedal down all the way for 30 secs

-Give it a few light pumps.

Done

-Remember to not torque your control arm bushings in the air. I just got them on with a crescent wrench and 3/8 ratchet. Then when on the ground used my 1/2 inch torque wrench to get them to spec.

-Remember to get an alignment afterwards. Cost me 160 dollars at Nissan

RESULTS:

-Im still waiting on a new axle nut but I put the old one on at 100 ft-lbs. Greased the splines. Little to no axle click now. I've only driven it twice so far and my brains used to drowning out the click, so its hard to tell yet but it seems gone or mostly gone. Ill update on what it does with the new nuts at 110 ft-lbs.

-Car is VERY stable. I actually cant believe how little new struts/rear shocks did but new control arms and sway bar links made it feel solid and removed all the bounciness. I'd look at the control arms first before the shocks/struts.

-No noise on backing up/forward at very low speeds. No clunk at a slightly harder stop/accell.

REMAINING WORK:

Needs new swaybar bushings. But the only symptom of this is extra noise on holes and, maybe, noise in winter.

Phew. Hopefully one of my tires doesnt fall off within the next week and I dont need to touch the car for another 100K+ miles. Besides maybe the battery

PARTS from rock auto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6260928&cc=3435389&pt=1636

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15758541&cc=3435389&pt=10281

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=16670725&cc=3435389&pt=1896

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11674989&cc=3435389&pt=15174

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11674993&cc=3435389&pt=15174

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6361152&cc=3435389&pt=1684

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8093136&cc=3435389&pt=10401

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8092660&cc=3435389&pt=10401

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8629932&cc=3435389&pt=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11179313&cc=3435389&pt=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12491897&cc=3435389&pt=7496

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12491901&cc=3435389&pt=7496

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4760409&cc=3435389&pt=7428

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4760811&cc=3435389&pt=7428

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5627706&cc=3435389&pt=7580

CPO with only 3,200 miles on it! Still about 2 years of full warranty left. $19K. Victorville, CA.

That's a pretty good deal, IMO.

Today while driving to work my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and said "Service Battery, power reduced". The leaf protected itself and put it into "limp mode" only allowing me to go 20mph tops. I pulled over and had it towed to the dealership, thinking that I had just overheated the inverter by driving it a little to hard in the early morning.

Just got the call from the dealership, the car has the "code of death" and the only way to fix it was to replace the battery but "Nissan isn't offering replacement packs". The dealer mentioned something about it being tied to the ongoing Level 3 charging recall and that I should expect a call for a buy-back.

I am this car's second owner, it has about 30k miles on it and never DC fast charged it so I'm not sure how the recall is related. Have any of you experienced this?

Idk what I'm getting myself into here. I don't know the first thing about these or electric cars at all. I know she bought it, was disappointed because the seller lied about it's range. She/they drove it briefly and then moved on. Registration (California) is 3 years out of date but she thinks she non-opped it.

She's offering me the car for free. Just come get it.

Not asking to be spoon fed here (please spoon feed me!)

46k miles on the car I think.

Did you do anything to get your buyback offer faster? Morley has had our paperwork for over a month (I think 45 days) and now the dealer is pushing for us to return loaner (our car has been at the dealer since early this year). We've made every payment on time on a car we can't use, are paying for gas, and cooperated at all points so this is just unbelievably frustrating.

2014 Nissan Leaf. Possibly total loss in an accident without collision coverage. How could I sell it best for salvage value, how much is it worth? I can add more photos for under the car to give a better view of whether the battery is still intact ? It had 10 bars.

Bought the car a month and a half ago 2017 leaf S. Owner provided nissan documentation of a new battery installed in December 2024 and it was driven 5k miles after the install. Gemini says this should last me about 10 years considering my driving commute (20 mi rt) but I know theres something shes missing and this sub will tell me.

I had an independent pre-purchase inspection done on a 2021 40Kwh Leaf on sale at a reputable dealership. The inspection, using a standard OBD tool, apparently showed a "battery temperature and resistance outside manufacturer specifications" fault, however the inspector has refused to elaborate any further.

LeafSpy shows normal indications and temps, SOH is 85% and 14mV. I test drove it and turned the heater up to 27°C, both seat warmers on high, and drove it on the motorway at 100km/h in 18°C weather, and the battery temp indicator on the dashboard showed it was below the middle level.

The dealership has sent the car to a local EV specialist for further testing to try and see what's going on. Anyone else experienced this before? Is there a chance the OBD reading was incorrect?

Thanks!

Second hand, out of warranty due to millage. Was working fine when I bought it, highway driving no issue.

For the least month or so it has been fluctuating from 40% to 0% underload, then 50% to 0, now 65%... I charged it to 100 overnight and going on the freely it dropped from 97% to -- and to turtle mode immediately.

The car is pretty "worthless" in terms of reselling due to the high mileage (250,000km); and putting in a new battery of the same kWh is more than 2x the residual value that it's insured for.

Has anyone been in the same situation and replaced a singular module? Or is it pretty much new battery or the degradation continues.

Got a US-spec 2013 Leaf with no cabin heat, so I bought a cheap “ELM327 V1.5 WiFi” adapter from AliExpress to check the fault codes. Then paid for LeafSpy Pro on my iPhone, and so far I’ve bought myself a lovely screen full of fucking zeroes.
Phone connects to WIFI_OBDII, registered the network in LeafSpy, car is definitely in READY. Restarted everything and unplugged the adapter. Still cycles between “Config Leaf” and “NO DATA”. No SOC, SOH or cell voltages. Car Scanner also connects to the adapter but can’t connect to the car.

Am I missing some setting for a US Leaf, or am I just an idiot for expecting this $10 AliExpress mystery box to actually work? Anyone got one of these working with LeafSpy on iPhone?

hello! when i bought my leaf a couple months ago it had this thing on it, my dad said it might be a GPS tracker but I was thinking it was one of those things that connects to leafspy. I want to get the app so I hope it is

I always thought the noise when I backed the car was from the parking break hanging on the drum. But no, it was the pads. The rear left side pad was completely worn down. I honestly thought they should have been in better shape as I changed them in 2021. Changing them was really easy. I took out the pins and greased them as well with ptfe grease. Now my oldie is zooming through the neighbourhood without a sound like an owl.

Standing at light 32%, picking up spead to 60km/h and battery shows 20%, after re-gen breaking 30%.

Leafspy shows one red battery cell. Anyone had experience with this? Should I go to nissan? Or look for thrid party service?

Is this coverrd by guarantee?

My surrender date is upcoming. For anyone that's has gone through that day, is there anything special I should know? I've notarized the paperwork and sent it in.

Has anyone done the surrender and maybe kept the charger cable? Sure seems a waste if they're just scrapping these vehicles.

For the range anxiety lovers, got home in my 2026 Leaf…barely

Oops i posted to old sub. Excuuuse me!

Somebody ran a red light and destroyed my trusty Leaf today. Luckily me and my toddler who was in the car with me are fine. I’ll miss this little car though.

I would really like to hear from anyone who has recently rejected the first buyback offer from Morley. What they offered isn't exactly terrible but would not get us another vehicle with equivalent features to our 2020 SL+.

Almost every post I've seen has said to reject the first offer but I would really like some more recent specifics on what that has looked like beyond simply signing the form saying we reject the offer. And confirm that it's still good advice right now.

And I would really like to know if anyone has been left out to dry when they rejected the first offer.

Thanks all.

Just posting for anyone else's benefit. I'm driving a 2016 Leaf, Tekna, 30 kwhr pack and at 57,500 miles I've just lost my first bar.

The weird thing is that according to LeafSpy, the SOH is around 84% which would represent about 1/6th loss of capacity whereas the gauge has 12 divisions , so should have lost two by now - but I vaguely remember someone saying that it's non linear. This also works out in Nissan's favour in terms of warranty claims on the battery - although I've got about two months before I hit that 10 year threshold so not an issue for me!!

Edit 1: just to add, I'm based in the UK.

My 2020 sv+ 71k miles has been at the dealership for a week now. I got the 1st call from Morley on Wednesday saying the process was being initiated. I haven't gotten the next call officially starting the process and requesting paperwork yet.

1st question is how long from now would you anticipate before I would actually get money from Morley assuming I accept their first offer.

2nd question: I can't find my vehicle sale paperwork but they said that would be optional would you anticipate if I can find that paperwork it would somehow help my offer?

LEAF Disposition Question.

Bought a 2015 LEAF S with 86K miles and 85% battery earlier this year for $3,800. Owner had it for ~8 years and had records of work done, all routine. It has ~90K now. Yesterday, brakes failed. Loud grinding noise with any brake press and brakes do nothing. Restarted a few times, because why not. No change. Tow arrives 20 minutes later and car is now fine. Not driving it though, so it gets towed to dealership.

Estimate comes back with:

CAUSE:

C118A U1000, and U1110 STORED FOR INTELLIGENT BRAKE UNIT. MULTIPLE CASES FOR REPLACEMENT OF BRAKE UNIT AND ENGINE ROOM HARNESS.

CORRECTION:

REMOVE AND REPLACE INTELLIGENT BRAKE UNIT AND ENGINE ROOM HARNESS.

ESTIMATE: $8,084.87.

There were other "critical" repairs listed, adding up to a total of about $10K, with another $5K in "attention" repairs.

I have no need of another car, so not going to trade and buy, and obviously not worth repairing.

In Minnesota. Open to suggestions.

Change the look of my leaf 😜 first day and 3rd

Coachella Valley Area. OEM Panasonic J1772. DM me if interested