Fuck cars.

Also, the throttle hate from some of the bike purists here is crazy. People saying that anything with a throttle doesn't count as an e-bike? wtf?

If someone is riding an e-bike, that's one less car on the road taking up space, burning gas, releasing fumes, and wearing down the roads. As long as they're riding responsibly, following traffic laws and speed limits, not being an asshole, and yielding and being respectful of pedestrians, then fuck it, let the kids do what they want.

Lowered the weight to 13 kilos, Selle Italia saddle, dropped the rattle too much mudguards, threw on some DTSwiss, and Panaracer GravelKings. I ride it to and from work so I needed it to be comfortable for me.

What would you say is the best place to ride your e-bike on a trail. I want to add more to my list. If you guys are interested in seeing my ride here’s a link https://youtu.be/-djtk4Rf3NI?is=VQIQCrBDpQ-bOVan

I've been lurking here awhile planning to get myself an ebike and most of what's said is pretty discouraging. My budget is around $600, and I understand that buying a new bike that comes in under that is asking for fire and suffering. Used bikes are their own lesson in pain -- the FLX Babymaker Pro a friend is letting me try out for the weekend is too small, and I wind up with back and shoulder aches. None of the other used ebikes near me seem like they'll work better.

I do have the Raleigh SC30 pictured. It's heavy. It's slow. It's 30 years old. Alternatively I have a Specialized CrossRoads of about the same vintage, but I think the Raleigh is better for this project.

I'll be riding this around in Lawrence, Kansas. The longest round trip I plan on making is about 12 miles, but I may be called upon to do up to 30 miles in a day. I would be able to handle this on pure pedal power if I lived somewhere without hills, but Lawrence is not such a place. I don't imagine I'll ever be called upon to get up 13th street with its 10-12% grade but it'd be nice to know I could. But I never need to be going much faster than 20mph.

Can I make this happen? I'm just dizzied by all my various options.

I saw a video posted by a guy doing this a while back, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Is it ideal? No

Did it work? Yes.

Adjusted brakes, checked pads, bled the brakes because my rear brake was a bit spongy. Tires are good for now, but I have a set of HEB Allscape tires that will probably be on in the next 1,000 miles . The bike has 2200 miles on it, my commute to work is 13 miles. I am putting just over 100miles a week on the bike since I ride 4 days per week.

As far as the bike, it has been a great bike. My only issue with it is I wish it wasn't 75lbs. I started out on PAS 3, but now typically will ride at PAS 2 and sometimes 1. I have pedaled it at 0 a few times and am able to maintain 13 to 15mph. Thankfully most of my commute is on a shared path along a river. Lots of wildlife and sadly one murder victim(yes that is true)

The bike got rained on once and I let it dry for 2 days i put the battery in amd now it won't turn on the screen only flickered on once I got it from my dad I don't know how long he used it for though

I am very very new to this market but not new to bikes at all. I’ve had a dozen bikes at this point in my life so I know what I’m looking for in terms of ride and feel. My problem is the Electrical part of this and how to manage to.

I am a 32 6’2’ 260ish male that is looking to make the commute going roughly 20 miles to my job and back. My budget is roughly 1000-1500 and I’m willing to spend that much because I really need something that’ll last me years. This is going to completely replace my car and that’s where my main indecision comes from.

Please tell me your experiences with Ebiking that distance 5/7 days of the week and maybe some recommendations on not just bikes but any tips really on what I need to know or do to make sure my purchase is solid but also thst I have the adequate knowledge to take care of the bike for as long as possible.

I live in South LA so it’s also hot most of the year which I know will factor into this.

Any and all suggestions and advice will be helpful, thank you!

Hi all,

Just bought a used Momentum Vida E+ from Upway. After putting it together I noticed a weird whine coming from the back wheel while riding. It also happens when the bike is off and the back wheel is spun. Is this normal?

Curious how everyone feels about faster ebike charging for 36V, 48V, and 52V batteries.

Most stock chargers seem to be around 2A–3A. If you wanted a faster e-bike charger, what charging current would you prefer?

• 4A
• 5A
• 6A

Would love to hear your thoughts or experiences!

Hi! May I ask for your help in answering this survey for an educational research paper? Your participation would be greatly appreciated.

I'm starting to get really worn down by this issue I'm constantly having with my ebike. My spokes, on the rear wheel keeps snapping at regular intervals. This wheel was bought less than 1.000 kms ago, and it's already snapped a spoke today.

It has grown to be an expensive and deeply frustrating pattern for me over the years. I'll buy a wheel, ride it for 700-1000 kms, and than bam, a spoke snaps. I'll get that fixed, ride another 1000 kms... And it snaps again. Another 1000-2000 kms on top of that, and the wheel is replaced because the repairs of constantly replacing snapped spokes grows too expensive and costly.

Two years ago, the rear wheel was swapped from a 29" wheel, down to a 27,5" one, which did reduce the frequency of the snapping. But it didn't remove it. I've lost count of the number of wheels I've had on the bike throughout the 50.000 kms I've ridden it.

The ebike is my primary means of transport, meaning that every time I have to turn it in for repairs I'll be left without being able to get about. My nearest bike shop can fix the spokes on the spot, but it is still deeply annoying and at the moment I am already short enough financially than having my spokes snap every third week.

Are the spokes on ebikes really supposed to be this bad, and snap this often?

i want to get mid to high 30s (mph) on a tst r002 and want to upgrade the controller but i need to know the controller specs so i dont mess something up anyone know about it?

I bought it straight from they're website and Rode it for like a month before I got my new job and I now no longer have any time to ride it. I will even have the original box of you would want that, the nine has 84 miles on it as of today

Talon T767 ebike/dirtbike comes with a fardriver and this is my first time getting in here bit theres a seemingly extra 6prong coming out of the motor wires thats not plugged, this is my first time opening up the controller on this bike to change my rear tube. tis unimportant allinall but curious if any of yall could guide me to knowledge

Legal: the ebike has to be truly an ebike according to the law.

Purpose: it should work more like a moped than like a bicycle.

Reason why: both attributes have advantages.

An example of a person who would benefit from such ebike: * myself:I have chronic fatigue health problems and can therefore not pedal serious amounts of watts for hours so regular bicycling wont get me from A to far B, but I also don't have a license so literally a moped is no option for me too.

What I need is a vehicle that is legally an ebike so that I dont need a license, but practically still a moped. Now my ebike has already a cadence sensor system which launches the bike forward with the slightest pedalforce and some people say that that makes it a moped but the battery is still very small. The battery is only less than 4kg big and a full charge gets me about 40km but sometimes I have to be places further than that, sometimes even more than double of that.

What I would benefit from is that the ebike has a huge battery. Like a 10kg battery, that would give me serious range and make it a reliable vehicle to go anywhere I wanna go!

And surely I'm not the only person who would benefit from that from because of the above mentioned reasons, right?

Right??? Why isnt there more market for this, atleast in the Netherlands?

Hello,

I am trying to make my steer higher but don’t really know if it’s possible or how. I try to unscrew the top one but nothing happened. Is there something I do wrong? It’s a gazelle medeo t10 model from 2022

Ok folks. I haven't seen much on this and reviewers won't just spit it out. I have owned a discover 1+ and now discover 3. Very nice bikes for the money which is what attracted me. So, here is the punchline. Whether in cadence or torque mode, if you coast with assist on but not moving the pedals.... the bike rolls freely and with no noticeable drag...now turn off assistance. Big drag! And no it's not because the bike is heavy or my psychology is messed up. Lol. It's got to be motor drag. I see that velotric uses its own motors probably to offer a lower price point. I also see that high end brands use well known motor brands like bosch with clutches that completely disengage. (Just reading a much as I can on it). It seems that high end brands are $4k and up. This may seem like a trivial detail but it does bother me as I sometimes want to go without assist on. My tires are at 60psi. Very firm and just under the max pressure. So! I'm looking for validation on this and someone that may have technical expertise to verify this. I think ebike buyers should be aware of this before they buy. Of course if you always ride with assist on and always want assist then no issue. I think velotric "cheaped out" on this to offer a lower price point.

Went on my ebike with my dad on a trail. We got to the Recreational park at the end and he let me try his Velotric? I think e bike. First time ever riding a high end 1500$ electric bike.

Felt like next level technology compared to my 300$ ebike from walmart. Felt like I was operating some futuristic machine in comparison to what I've been riding

Had only seen those high quality high price ones in videos to learn about e bikes until now

Woah

Edit:

""""To past posters and comments (especially) and more:

Guys main point to make. I didn't mean by definition regarded by most as "high end" based on price and functionality. Technically. I just meant in my personal perspective it elevated for me when riding a 300$ e - bike only and rode a 1500$ one first time (with permission from my father) was "next level" in my personal perception You guys think I meant by definition but not exactly It was superior to me. I haven't had a car or license in ten years so a cheap 300$ e-bike was already to me incredible.

And not to judge by the linguistic label at price and all. Thanks""""

Be safe and enjoy the interesting experience of e - bike riding. Together as a community we can further elevate knowledge on such machines and increase efficiency. Appreciation

I am not sure where the access hole on the caliber is with this brand I know there is one in the lever on the handlebars but I need to hook up the syringe on the brake caliper it self but the front brake caliper and the rear brake caliper is the same brand just not to sure what screw is the access point

Hi everyone.
So I’ve got this bike and I want to upgrade it to be a lot more powerful. I’m thinking about a 2000w 52v motor (kit with the rear wheel). Will it be powerful enough to start without pedalling? Do I need to look for a 3000w motor? I really want it to accelerate from zero like a motorbike…. Thanks for any advice!

I split the "Pedal Operated" column in two: "Pedals Required" and "Throttle Allowed", added "Maximum Power" column, updated Maximum Motor-Assisted Speed for mopeds and added the note that some Class 3 e-bikes are sold with throttles. I think that the "gray zone" Class 3 e-bike with a throttle assisting up to 20 MPH makes total sense, but it is prohibited in California.

The original document is here: California's new e-bike law: guidance for agencies.

Thinking about getting an e-bike for errands, groceries, shopping, getting around the neighborhood. Saw this cargo e-bike, the cd20. solid on paper but honestly might be way more bike than I need. Could use some advice.

Specs:

• Rear hub motor, 1500W peak / 1100W sustained, 110 N·m torque, rated for 30° slopes
• Top speed up to 33 MPH (unlockable)
• Dual battery, 48V 15.6Ah + 17.5Ah, 33.1Ah total, removable
• Range up to about 150 miles on lowest PAS, 60+ miles on throttle alone
• Max payload 550 lbs (~250 kg)
• 20" x 4.0" all-terrain fat tires
• Dual hydraulic disc brakes with motor cut-off sensors
• Around $1,499 to $1,999

Things I'm stuck on:

1. Seems heavy and bulky. Parking and getting it into an elevator sounds like a pain?
2. 550 lbs payload and 33 MPH feels like overkill for shopping. Am I right?
3. The dual battery range is way more than I'd ever need for errands. Just wasted money?
4. At this price, are there lighter, more city friendly options worth looking at instead?

Needs are simple. Carry a bit of stuff, ride comfortably, park easily. This bike looks capable, but I don't want to buy something that's overkill and ends up being a hassle.

Anyone ridden this or a similar cargo e-bike? Real world experiences would help. Thanks!