Repair shop tried replacing the hard drive but got the same problem. Any ideas or is it just bricked?

Last week I took a $250 gamble on ebay for for a fat model PS5. Only issue mentioned was " Front USB don't work ".

Got the item today , taking apart to replace the front USB port, to find out the front USB port ribbon cable was not connected 😑. Connecting the ribbon cable solved the front USB, now its working lol 😀. Easiest repair I have ever done.

I've noticed a strange picture issue with my original NTSC NES and was wondering if anyone knows what might be causing it.

As you can see in the video, the pixels seem to constantly shimmer or slightly vibrate, even when nothing on screen is moving. Games run perfectly fine otherwise, but the effect is quite noticeable.

Here's what I've tried so far:

Replaced the 72-pin connector, but the issue was present with both the old and new one.

Cleaned the motherboard's cartridge contacts.

Tested on two modern TVs using a composite-to-HDMI converter, with the same result.

Tried it on an old CRT through SCART. The picture was black and white because it's an NTSC console on a UK TV, but the jitter still seemed to be there, although possibly less noticeable.

Changed the TV picture settings, but nothing helped.

I'm using an original Nintendo power adapter, and the red power light stays steady.

One strange thing I've noticed:

When adjusting the screws on the black plastic cartridge tray or applying slight pressure to the cartridge connector assembly, the jitter sometimes reduces significantly or almost disappears.

However, this doesn't happen consistently.

I'm not sure whether this is normal NES composite-video interference or something wrong with the console itself, such as a grounding issue, bad solder joint or ageing capacitor.

Does the jitter in the video look normal for an NES, or does it seem like something that needs fixing?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Do you guys think it’s fixable? I have some experience with regular soldering, but not with micro-soldering like in this case. Also, as you can see, some of the motherboard pads stayed attached to the old port and tore off from the motherboard surface, otherwise probably I might have tried to resolder a new port, as it seemed easier with the trace intact. It’s a Playstation 5 Digital only btw. Any help would be great!

My Xbox One Fat (2013) keeps crashing during games.

Xbox One games (GTA V, Diablo III, Forza and others) randomly close to the dashboard, while Xbox 360 games freeze, sometimes with looping audio. The dashboard remains responsive, and lighter games (Minecraft, Castle Crashers...) and apps (YT, Netflix) work fine for hours.

I've cleaned the console, replaced the thermal paste, tested another power supply (including a new one), and reset the system. Nothing fixed it.

I haven't replaced the internal HDD yet (I'm doing it while waiting for you guys answer), but I'm suspecting the issue is worse than that.

Has anyone experienced and fixed something similar? Any suggestions on what to test or possible repairs before giving up on it?

Thanks a lot!

I picked up a Pikachu edition N64 knowing there was a signal issue, but I am pretty handy and really want to rebuild my childhood collection so I figured I’d give it a shot and hopefully it just needed a good cleaning. Well, it did. There was a ton of grime and bug shells to be cleaned. Alas, the led lights but there is no signal to the TV. Hoping someone could point me in a new direction.

Conditions:

- OEM 120v (US console) power supply and AV cable into older LG led TV using AV to HDMI box from GameStop.

What I’ve tried:

- Thoroughly scrubbed down with a soft toothbrush and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Including lifting the slot reader and spraying everything out with canned air.

- Tested converter box and AV cables with GameCube, all worked.

- Checked power supply with multimeter and get consistent ~3.3v and ~12v readings respectively.

- Reflowed the expansion pak slot, all 3 chips, the psu and av ports, the slot reader, and any sus looking joints I could find. Quadruple checked for any potentially bridged pins and all checks out.

- Cleaned the expansion pak slot and card reader pins religiously.

- Cleaned the two N64 games I have (Pokemon Stadium and WCW vs NWO Revenge 🤘) and expansion pak thoroughly as well.

Unfortunately, I don’t have another N64 to test the games or expansion pak with, but the listings said they were tested and working and the sellers were reputable. I’ve read that some people replace the capacitors, but they all look good to me. Is that the only next step or are there other avenues I haven’t tried yet?

Thanks in advance.

I have a model SNS-CPU-APU so my cart reader is just one piece unlike others. I got one from aliexpress but it is not the right size. All the ones on eBay are just the top piece of the card reader from other models.

I regret working on a 2ds xl while half asleep, and now I have learned another hard lesson 😅. System was fully operational at the start. I was originally doing a top and bottom shell replacement on a 2ds xl, and broke the volume slider during that process. I soldered in a new volume slider and then realized I forgot to remove the battery. I was working on 3ds xls before and guess I forgot the 2ds xls battery is actually internal 😅. We'll now the system will not power on at all. It still charges normally, and nothing happens at all when attempting to power it on. I checked the fuses and they are still good. Can anyone think of anything else I can check on the board? Theres not much info online about 2ds xl repairs aside for the blue light and popping sound issue.

Hola a todos.

Hace poco que encontré mi PSX de chaval y estoy intentando resucitarla. El conector de pines se soltó cuando intentaba desconectarlo y fue soldado de nuevo a la placa. La consola enciende, y la lente se ve que se mueve hacia arriba y hacia abajo intentando localizar el disco, sin embargo, no gira ni se ve movimiento alguno. Me gustaría saber si está bien soldado o qué problema tiene para solucionarlo. Para ello quiero utilizar correctamente el multímetro y averiguar si este es el problema que está haciendo que no giren los discos o no llegue la alimentación. Cómo haría la medición correcta? En qué posición debería poner el multímetro y qué pines debo testear? Se agradece cualquier información. Muchas gracias!

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Hi, everyone.

I recently found my old PSX from when I was a kid, and I’m trying to get it working again. The pin connector came loose when I was trying to unplug it, so it was soldered back onto the circuit board. The console powers on, and you can see the lens moving up and down as it tries to locate the disc; however, it doesn’t spin, and there’s no visible movement at all. I’d like to know if it’s soldered properly or what the problem is so I can fix it. To do this, I want to use the multimeter correctly to figure out if this is the issue preventing the discs from spinning or if power isn’t reaching the console. How would I take the correct measurement? What setting should I use on the multimeter, and which pins should I test? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you very much!

Hi everyone,

I purchased a broken New 3DS XL, and attempted to repair it. But the repair was beyond me. I know the board was working at one point, when I first got it, as it was able to power on. But it stopped working soon after.

There are four small ZIF connectors that had been torn off of the board. They connect to ribbon cables for the home button, the microphone, the bottom screen, digitizer, and something relating to the top screen.
I have purchased replacement parts already for the ZIF connectors, microphone and home button.
I believe that the motherboard is functioning. It turned on at once point since I’ve had it. I think that the top and bottom screen are functioning, but there may be damage to the ribbon cables

I attempted to expose some of the traces and solder wires to the board, then to the new connectors. I used a multimeter in continuity mode to try to follow the traces and see what was connected. But there are no board schematics available online.

When I attempted to repair it, sometimes the screens would turn on. Other times there would be a blue light and a popping noise, which I know is common power issue where either screen, the home button, and/or microphone is not connected.

How would you approach this board-level, microsoldering repair? How should I attach new ZIF connectors securely to the board and how do I begin to diagnose the issues?

I have a soldering station, multimeter, and some other basic tools.

Pictures are included. Thanks.

Should the circled components be missing from this ps5? I bought used and it’s clearly been opened before so I’m wondering if they could have fallen off some how?

My 2001B was struggling to read Blu-rays, the mechanism itself was working fine. I completely disassembled it and replaced the laser, and now it's not working properly. The console shows the blue light on startup as if a disc is inside (there isn't) and it does nothing when I attempt to insert a disc. I'm fairy certain I reassembled it correctly.

So I'm trying to get more into like, repairing old consoles and hardware in general and I've got this old gameboy which has a few issues. It does turn on but when a game is inserted, the nintendo logo is just completely scrambled. So right now I'm assuming thats because there is some corrosion on the cartridge reader pins so there is like, no direction connection between all of them(?)

So my question mainly is, whats the best thing i can try to get it clean? I've tried using some IPA and cotton swabs but I can't really get inside because the gap is too tight. As far as I know vinegar is probably a better option if you wanna get rid of corrosion anyways, but I don't know if its a smart idea to use that on the hardware itself if i can't isolate the component. I've thought about desoldering the whole cartridge reader and just put that into vinegar but i don't wanna put in all of that effort before hearing the opinion of someone with more experience.

And i also wouldn't mind if anyone has different suggestions to what the cause of the problem could be, thanks in advance!

To be honest, I have a LOT of trouble dealing with stripped screws on DS consoles, PS4s, controllers, etc.

Has anyone tried this?

Hello, I noticed that my image has red dots flickering all over and the image cuts out. I tried different hdmi cables and different ports on the monitor. The one thing that I find weird is that if I position the cable perfectly the image is fine, but it's a huge pain to get it to sit right. Would replacing my HDMI port in the console be enough ? Or is the GPU dying?

I took apart my ps5 too clean it and when I put it back together it keeps showing error SU-101312-8 did I mess up a ribbon or cable it was working fine before

A part snapped on my PS5 whilst performing a Liquid Metal replacement. Safe to reinstall broken, or superglue? Any suggestions for a replacement component in the UK? Thanks in advance

I was soldering TMR’s on my 20th anniversary Xbox Series controller and I ended up dropping the iron and burning my hand. Desperately trying to finish the repair, I ended up knocking the MOSFET U11 and Cap C37 off. I repaired those and finished installing the TMR’s, but after that, I accidentally tore the pad for SQ1 off. I am not good at pad repair so I looked at the board diagram for an Xbox Series 1914 Board and it seems like SQ1 runs to the leftmost point of CR3 than back to SQ1. Could I just solder the rumble wire to the leftmost side of CR3 or should I attempt to repair the pad?

i take the top off to see the laser stop and not sure why it do this ignore my brother video in the backgrounds!

Hey Guys

With GTA 6 coming out soon I have been planning on buying a PS5 but with the crazy price increases not interested in buying new. There are a few pawn shops that sell ps5's in the 350-400 range. These pawn shops have a 14 day return policy and was wondering if I can bring the ps5 to a electronic repair store for a general diagnostic to test if there is anything wrong in those 14 days. On average how much would something like this cost and is it even worth it compared to something like buying a cerified refurb straight from sony for 500?

Possiedo questa Wii mini da ormai 6 anni e e dopo tutto questo tempo di inutilizzo per 5 anni l'ho accesa di nuovo, dandomi subito un errore al lettore del disco che non avevo ancora inserito lasciandomi bloccato con questa schermata, la seconda immagine è diversa perché con il lettore del disco aperto mi fa accedere al menù ma come avvio solo il manuale di istruzione mi viene dato lo stesso errore. Come posso fare?

Hey, I need some help figuring out what went wrong with my Vita.

I replaced the screen on my PS Vita 2000, and now I get a solid green power light but no image at all. The weird thing is that the touchscreen still works, and I can hear sounds and navigate the system by touch and buttons. However, the screen is completely black. I tried both the new screen and the original one, but neither displays anything. The console was working perfectly before I opened it.

Did I possibly damage the display circuit or blow a fuse, or could it just be a connector issue?

What can I check without a power supply? I am a broke teenager and I do not want to spend 20 dollars on one just yet but I wanna get as far as I can on this.

I've greased the rails, I've greased the gears, the drive belt is gripping just fine and all I've done is make it worse.

I just can't understand why I can't get this tray to eject all the way. it was fine before a little sluggish but it ejected all the way. What did I do wrong?

Recently i installed tmr in my duelsense edge module. When i tested it ,my controller blinked blue for 1 second then it began blinking white . I dont know what happened i soldered everything , and tested everything . Then after that i remove the tmr stick . Why this happens? Can anyone help? And i need to mention that i didnt use any IPA while doing this . I used some flux and tried to cover all components with kapton tape. What could have cause this?