Spotted this split window driving around in my hometown and from my limited knowledge of Beetles split windows have become very rare and to be driven around is almost unheard of. This was the only picture my passenger was able to snag, but from what’s seen in the picture can it be the real deal?

Hello! I just picked up a replacement clutch hook and when I put it in the assembly the hole for the pin is not quite lined up and there’s no wiggle room to get it lining up with the pin on the clutch pedal. Would it be fine to grind/drill out a hole in the clutch hook and would that be strong enough to hold it in place? Or should I just try to get the correct piece for strength reasons? I’m inclined to drill the hole, but wanted to do a pulse check here if anyone’s had a similar issue in the past. Any feedback is highly appreciated.

Hello guys,

I have tried to fix my old signal hub but it was too far gone and/or above my skills.

So I bought a cheap one, just to learn from it. Even if it might not last forever, it should at least work.

My issue here is that the one I bought has much more wires than my old one.

For info, I have a 69 beetle and what the lever use to be for was:

- turn signal

- switch from low beams to high beams

To turn on the headlights themselves, I pull the knob on the dashboard.

I would like to keep it that way, so obviously I don't need to reconnect every wires. I have 4 wires coming form under the dashboard (not including the one for contact etc, the car starts perfectly when I take out that single hub assembly).

I would appreciate if you could spot which wires I should focus and which ones I don't need to bother with.

Thanks a lot !

Yikes. Opened the lid and fuel was pouring out.

It’s been a minute since I posted here because I’ve been working on this damn thing!

So I added a lime bug aftermarket rack and pinion set up. Finally got everything in thank goodness. But the horn wire that runs down the tube I re-ran it down the tube, but if I attach it to the coupler or anything else I get nothing.

It was working fine before. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas how to set it up again. Like I said the wire that runs down the center of the steering shaft is still in place. I connected it to the clamp on the steering tube where the new rack and pinion mounts to it. And got nothing.

I’ve always loved taillight covers and don’t really see any readily available for bugs, still working out the kinks, thinking of going to a design that doesn’t catcher the bolt holes and just sticks on with 3m tape for a cleaner set of lines, but still dig this shape too!

The car is parked since 2018 i was thinking to repair it ,

How much will i approximately pay? And is it worth it? "Repair costs in egypt are too expensive"

i got lucky again. driving on i-35 N and a guy tried to pass a semi truck on the right lane and didn’t see me. pit maneuvered me and i almost slid into the median but regained control. thank god for lowered suspension.

damage is mostly rear fender and deck lid. some frame damage around the wheel well and engine bay, but nothing a donor car wouldn’t solve. the engine was pretty much untouched aside from the valve cover and it still was able to drive another 20 miles to where i got it towed (thanks hagerty)

i made a post a while back about how inconsiderate drivers are and this is exhibit A. all it takes is one guy not paying attention to end countless hours of love and work and nearly taking my life with it.

i’m lucky to have regained control of my car and i’m even more lucky that i will once again be able to fix my beloved super beetle.

Belle, you are an absolute trooper.

I have a 1970 dual circuit master cylinder, drums all around. I couldn't get the front brakes to bleed so I bench bled the master cylinder. I got a clean flow with no air bubbles from the front and rear lines, all 3 outlets. Now that I put the master cyl back in, it won't bleed. I am starting with the front right wheel, and nothing comes. When I crack open the front right outlet on the master cylinder and push the brake pedal, fluid barely dribbles out. When I crack open the connection between the metal line to the rubber flex line on the front left, I can hear air when pushing the brakes. What do I do? I am trying to avoid removing the mastery cylinder as it was a huge pain in the ass to get back in.

I have dual webbers, currently I have a rear decklid that has the wide 2 column, 4 row vents.

I’d like a ventless lid and put a standoff hinge.

Would this decrease or increase airflow for the carbs?

Thoughts please!

Hello, a few weeks ago I noticed that only the passenger side bright light works and the blue light on the dash board doesn't work.

Any ideas as to the cause?

Anyone know or use a good no bs mechanic in southern Maine that can diagnose issues in my super beetle?

I’ve been trying to fix a no start issue for months and I surrender. 🏳️ any advice or help is appreciated

Like the guy who was asking about the wheels spinning when the trans is in neutral, I replaced my seals on my swing axle and when the motor is running the hubs are spinning backwards. ???? Also put in the undated throw out bearing assemble and new clutch and flywheel. ????

H8 guys. We're working on this 79 super beetle vert and we are having some trouble finding a transmission mount. Any suggestions?

Anyone know of where to get these? I think the part number is 311953071 but searching that doesn’t get you far, anybody know of any generic part numbers that fit or hacks that work? Every time you find one of these housings they’re missing a socket.

I got this car after my father in law passed away. The shifter was screwed on (rather than bolted in with the original bolt holes).

When I try to use the original bolt holes (which are about 0.5 inches forward of the screw holes), I can find neutral, reverse, 2nd and 4th, but not 1st or 3rd.

What gives??

Rust & Trust - Running Out of Autumn [019]

Digital art, Procreate.

For some reason that I am not aware of my dune buggy "backfires" when I speed up and go into 3rd & 4th gear. It's so bad I have to slow down to make it stop. Runs fine at low speeds and idle.

What do you think? Bad coil or air leak at carb?

(was made from a 1971 vw beetle)

Been having a few electrical gremlins with my ‘74 Super lately and figured maybe the alternator wasn’t putting out enough voltage… well, quite the opposite! Amazed I haven’t boiled my battery already…

Still new to the aircooled world but as best as I can tell, I believe I have an externally regulated Motorola alternator. The regulator that’s installed is an Echlin VR-503 with 3 wires going to it, plugged into an adapter, plugged into the 4-wire factory harness.

I don’t have the budget/time at the moment to install a new alt so converting to an internally regulated alt and re-wiring my setup accordingly isn’t an option.

1) Is this the correct voltage regulator for my setup?
2) Is there a different/better regulator available?
3) My idiot light comes on with the key then turns off as usual, but it doesn’t come on the rest of the time I’m driving - shouldn’t it be lighting up when it’s overcharging this much?