Since I am repainting , what color looks good. I am thinking Oxford white. I am completely painting the car in and out. Stay with white or what also looks good? Engine bay and under hood will stay white though.

I have a trick flow stage one cam SVE 175 cc heads and a trick flow upper and lower intake this is my first time doing all of this one cylinder needs an adjustment. I hear the rockers ticking a little bit, but from your guys professional experience how does this thing sound un tuned?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, my car will not stay running until it’s warm. It was idle around 8/900 and then it will die. Once warm it won’t die. I did install a catless H Pipe, new 02 sensors and checked the exhaust for leaks but not seeing or hearing any major leaks. Any other solutions I should look for?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, my car will not stay running until it is warm. Idles around 8/900 and then after like a minute or two it dies. After the car is warm I don’t run into this issue. I do have a Catless H pipe and I replaced the 02 sensors when I did the install. Checked for exhaust leaks and didn’t find any. Any other solutions?

It’s been almost 9 years since it ran last. Spent some time getting it ready to fire and it runs like a champ. Seems to make some really good power judging by the big smoky burnouts it wants to do without hesitation!

Might have a stupid question here but I bought this car in July and the headlights do about nothing at night. Car came with smoked headlights (no clue what brand) and it almost looks like the reflectors are smoked as well. It had some off brand LED bulbs in it and I changed them to silver star ultra halogens and they're still terrible at night. Anyone had this problem with smoked headlights and have anything that can help me out?

$800 4 lug chrome ponies 16” on tires

Last 5 pics are all the flaws.

I live in the Bay Area and the few sets that have came for sale on Facebook marketplace. We’re all listed at about $1400. Probably in better condition than these. They are also sold out online. I want to pull the trigger, but I also don’t mind waiting a little bit longer spending the extra money on a super clean set. I do plan on five lugs swapping in the future maybe in a few years

I was wondering if anyone running the Toyo 315/35 r17 with the rear end lowered a bit. If so. How did you lower it and what was used. I would like to reduce the gap between the tire and fender well. Nothing crazy just enough.

So I messed up and scrapped some parts off my other window. I thought the regulator kit would come with all new stuff. I need all the stuff riveted to the window and the bar/ window guide pictured for the driver side of my 83 t top hatch. I'm having difficulty finding them online. Please help 😅

Looking to build my car for canyon runs and occasional track use. Has anyone tried it? How does it improve handling?

2nd pass ever at the track, 331stroker with a baby cam, G-Force T5 with main shaft upgrade, The old 2-3 and cya later happened. Drag radials and some nasty tire shake didnt help.

Pass before this (first ever) i ran 13.30 at 108.10 with a 2.148 60ft.

Took the bumber off my 91 hatch and the inner truck plastic panels, while I took the plastic trim off this bushing seemingly fell out nowhere, hex screw is a 10 mm

My car came with tubular subframe connectors installed. It looks like the old FMS subframe connectors or possibly BBK. Is it worth it to pull these off and put on a good full length set of subframe connectors like the Maximum Motorsports?

I’m happy to have a beater that absolutely rips. Assuming the motor is built well, what do y’all think of this starting point?

Bought a new steering rack from rockauto and the line looks a little squished is it fine or should I swap my old one on

Crazy how I didn’t drive my baby this summer 😅🥹

My dads car is not running currently and I have determined it is missing ground from pin 6 on the distributor plug can anyone tell me where this leads and what tests I should do to inspect this issue and find what is wrong with it I though it might have been a TFI module issue at first but seeing this missing ground I having me question if the computer is fried and needs to be replaced or shipped out for fixing PFA

Smoke tested my '93 GT for vacuum leaks, only places it came out were the EGR, A/C vacuum hose because its busted, and the top of the TPS. I just replaced the OEM EGR since it was crusty and full of carbon and could be not sealing correctly after 30 years, now I'm getting code 33, and 41, 91 are still here. I've checked the O2 sensor ground behind the head on the driver side and it looks fine. Brand new bosch O2 sensors as well. Losing my mind I've been brainstorming and troubleshooting and replacing for 5 months now :/ car has a Catless exhaust with entire smog system still intact. Everything else is OEM

Curious too see if it is worth laying down killmat on the interior before I take the car out next year. For reference I do have a catless H pipe and flowmaster mufflers. I am not looking to completely remove the noise. I wanted it to be louder 😂. However curious if it helps with heat dissipation and things of that nature before I rip apart the interior?

Hey all, been trying to rebuild a foxbody as a first timer and im stuck on the front suspension as the title states. I've got the k member loosely attached, looking to put in the springs and struts. I cannot seem for the life of me able to reinstall the springs correctly.

Do I need both springs seated before reattaching the struts? What am I doing wrong here?

Any help is appreciated 👏

Update:

Got a buddy to come by. My silly goose self forgot to put some extra weight on top of the car. He sat on the bumper support while I jacked the a arm up with the spring semi in place and presto magic the strut and spring were able to go in their homes