EDIT: Checked Vin, it’s a Genuine Mustang GT CONVERTIBLE WITH A DONOR 4.6 2V

Saw this 1998 Mustang Convertible GT, probably can get it for 2-2.5k CAD, just wondering if it’s a good buy, not a fan of the automatic but most likely will be a birthday gift for my mom since this was her dream car, if you aren’t from Ontario Safeties ensure that there is no rust and the car is upto mechanical spec

Only fault that i know of so far is a small leak in the top, i’m only driving im the sun when its top down weather so i dont really mind

Is it a good purchase, i have the garage space to store it? What should i look for when checking it out, will get a PPI/Inspection done before purchasing
Thanks

a guy is selling a manual 1995 GT with some mods and a rebuilt engine with 3k miles, not sure miles on transmission. he’s selling for 6.8k. he offered it to me for 6k but i might be able to get him down to 5.5k.
he said the only work he think needs to be done is routine fluid maintenance, alignment, new shocks, and tires.
would you guys buy this? i feel like this is a great opportunity but just wanted other opinions, thanks everyone

im not sure how to add a video but he sent me a video of it running and it sounds solid

edit: thank you everyone for your 2 cents i really appreciate it. i’m gonna try and talk him down. im in california so everything costs more unfortunately .. people ask 4k for an automatic v6 around here lol

My nephew is on his P2s in NSW and has found a fairly stock early SN95 Mustang he wants to buy, but he might move to Queensland next year. I know the high-powered rules aren’t the same everywhere and I’m not sure whether the car being older or imported changes anything. Would he need to go by the rules of the state he’s driving in, or where the car is registered?

Replaced the o-ring twice and I’m still leaking (pause). High pressure line came in yesterday. How the f do I get the bottom out. Saw a guy on YouTube use a crowfoot wrench wondering if anyone else has had success with one.
Also excuse the filth and grime. I’ve been giving this car hell for about 5 years now. Love it so I’m trying to learn how to take care of it.

Just got a new steering rack torqued down into my '94 GT. After several unsuccessful attempts to get it to line up with the mounting sleeves, I finally cracked open the factory service manual and found how Ford said to put the racks in place.

Note, this method involves replacing (or removing) both of the gear insulator sleeves. You can get a new set from LMR if you look for "1985-2004 Mustang Steering Rack Sleeves."

Here's how to make it mostly painless:

• Remove both mounting sleeves from the K-Member, then slide the bolts through as though the sleeves were in place. Don't put the nuts on, obviously.
• Put the rear bushings only on the rack. I used urethane bushings on this install.
• Install your fluid lines on the rack BEFORE you put it into place. There's enough slack in both lines to let the rack move around.
• Slide the rack into place and then push the bolts from the back side of the k-member through the mounting hole in the rear bushings. This gives you enough clearance to wiggle the rack into the proper position.
• Now put the front bushings on. Slide the bolts back through.
• Take your mounting sleeves and jam them over the mounting bolts, through the mounting holes in your bushings. Push them in as far as you can.
• Use a dead blow hammer to whack the sleeves through the bushings and into the K-member. Make sure the bolts stay in place, as they act as a guide to seat the sleeves in the proper position.
• Eventually the face of the sleeve will be at the same depth as the bolt. Since you don't want to knock the bolts back through, take and old sleeve (if you're replacing them) or a 14mm socket (other sizes may work) and line it up with the new sleeve and continue hammering. The bolt should mostly stay in place.
• You may get lucky and your sleeve will seat into position all the way. I got sick of hammering, so I just got them back far enough to where I could thread the washer and nut onto the mounting bolt. As I tightened the nut, the washer pushed the sleeve the rest of the way in until the sleeve was flush with the backside of the k-member.

This diagram shows how the bolts and sleeves work together to mount the rack. You'll also see that when installing new sleeves, you should use the bolts to guide them into position:

Using this method was insanely easy, and I had plenty of room to get the rack into the right position before adding in all the mounting hardware. I did notice the bushings slipped out slightly during the hammering process, but everything torqued back together no problem once I got the washers and nuts seated.

If you watch the LMR install video, they recommend only removing one of the sleeves. I was never able to get the rack into position with just one of them out.

Just wanted to put this out online for anyone else who's struggling with this...I lost a half a Saturday trying to get this done, and literally just got the new rack installed in about 30 minutes.

Hey everyone. I inherited a 1998 Cobra. It was in the middle of being fixed up when I got it. I pretty much have everything ironed out, but would like some advice with the heater core. It looks like the heater core has been “deleted.” The passenger cylinder head is blocked off and there was a very long hose running from under the intake with a bolt in it that would leak coolant when I fired it up. I have the intake pulled off and can see in the valley where that hose was attached. I was hoping to get some advice on the safest way to completely bypass the heater core? It seems to be the best option at this time with the cylinder head being blocked off in the back and not much room to work with. Thanks in advance!

Its a 1998 S351 Saleen supercharged w/ AC (i guess saleen wanted to know before going dark on us) supercharger belt + accessory belt.

I know the foxbody mustangs had a reputation of being cheap and easy cars to have fun with but I was wondering if that was the same for the sn95 mustangs (94-98)

I know the 5.0 was in them from 94-95 then it went to the 4.6.

I’m not looking to win any awards I just want something I can make my own and take to the track and beat on.

Journey includes cleaning, stripping, a LONG period of minor dent repair, 2 primer applications, and the rest of refinish. Probably still needs to be buffed -- clearcoat is still pretty new to me.

It's the 3rd panel I've done solo.

A little more work, some paint and new bulbs, and it made it to its first show yesterday. 4.11 gears are way too much for the street

Im installing my motor back into my car after a rebuild and am having some issues and just want some tips on the best way to go about this. I had to unbolt the manifolds from the heads as the head to cat bolts were very stripped and in a bad position where I couldn’t even cut them. The transmission is also still in the car. Few methods I have heard/devised ;

1. Remove motor mounts and install after car clears the exhaust manifolds
2. Remove driveshaft and push transmission back
3. Slightly lower transmission mount but not remove with driveshaft still attached and wiggle into place
4. What’s the best way to do this job?
5. TIA!

Im installing my motor back into my car after a rebuild and am having some issues and just want some tips on the best way to go about this. I had to unbolt the manifolds from the heads as the head to cat bolts were very stripped and in a bad position where I couldn’t even cut them. The transmission is also still in the car. Few methods I have heard/devised ;

1. Remove motor mounts and install after car clears the exhaust manifolds
2. Remove driveshaft and push transmission back
3. Slightly lower transmission mount but not remove with driveshaft still attached and wiggle into place
4. What’s the best way to do this job?
5. TIA!

Im thinking of buying a can from LMR, DOes anyone have experience with there interior spry paints. I need it for the steering wheel is all crusted and faded.

I got some insane brake fade on some backroads using powerstop pads (I don’t know any better) and I’m looking for some better pads that won’t kill me financially. (I’m a broke college student) any tips? I was thinking about getting duralast

So this is my first car had in for 26 years now and decided to redo some things. Stripped it down to the block and repainted the engine bay while everything was out. Swapped in a few parts from some of my other mustangs. Threw on some Gt40 heads and cobra rockers from a 88 strip car I have but stayed with the same 19lb injectors and mass air setup. Repainted the Gt40 tubular intake and some other parts black and gray. Swapped in an 03 cobra radiator, fan, and coolant tank I had from when I upgraded my 01… started it up and it sounds and looks great I think!

Okay so I was driving home tonight from work and my sn95 v6 started making this noise no loss in power nothing has changed but it sounds awful. It gets worse the higher the rpm’s. Got her home parked now. Does anyone know what’s going on?

My best friend who just so happens to have this same setup sent me a link on eBay for this kit. Never ran. 50% off. Couldn't help myself. D1SC with loud gears. Hopefully just need to add some bigger injectors and fuel pump. Rest of the supporting mods are there (heads/cam/intake/exhaust/holley terminator). Gonna shoot for 400-425 wheel for now. Eventually going to have to look at a tkx or maybe even a t56.

Changed the rims/tires, tinted and added a 7" Kenwood touch screen. Put the pony emblem back on under the hood.

One owner car, he added a BBK CAI and changed the original taillights.

I have some TLC work to do, but its clean and fun to drive.