2x4 pressure treated wood with 3-in screws, 3 ton floor jack.

Taking a dookie on this sub again.

the N54 is the worst engine ever, only idiots still drive n54 cars fr

Title says it all, should I go lower? I’d like to drop another inch so it’ll tuck the same as the rear, but my front coilovers are maxed. Car is xdrive, on ECS coilovers and on 18s, so if anyone has recommendations please lmk.

Hello guys, I need help. I have been experiencing a problem as stated in title. My car shakes, or vibrates, however you like, under braking. I have been to mechanic recently , 7 days ago, before MOT. I have changed stabilizers, both discs and braking pads on front where the shaking occurs, also i have changed the wheel bearing on front right where i suspect the problem is. I have driven 400km with new discs and pads before chaning the wheel bearing. What can be the problem, I have no more clues. I'll go next week again to check the discs with comparator. Is it maybe the brake calipers or ABS? HELP!!!

As title suggests I’m looking for something like these for my 328xi any leads or recommendations would be appreciated also photo of my car cause I heard yall don’t like black hoods

Hi, im on a dilemma of buying an e90 lci 330d.(N57) late 2010
The car is well optioned in le mans blau, 250K KM(Actual) has timing chains done but no bearings, but here comes the dilemma.
The car has a little rust on the rear left panel, also surface rust on front and rear subframes, as much as i was able to see body has a few rust spots but nothing that would be a hole soon 😂
A lot of maintenance at bmw dealerships (which is rare for my country) 6 new injectors, no oil leaks. I want to hear your opinion, is it worth buying? Price is at 6500 Euros.

So this one is EU market (idk much about the difference so i point out) 120k km (75k miles) seems to be in good condition and its from a second owner who owns it since 2011. Its an automatic 325i coupe e92 with the N52. This was a cold start as far as i remember and during the test drive if i payed close attention to it sounded like air leaking/something releasing air. The power was okay even though i dont know how fast it should be. The automatic transmission seemed okay except when it was cold i shifted in place from D to R and N and you can feea little jolt and little sound something changing. The wheel seemed like it wasnt coming back after turns not that much at least. Power delivery was okay as well as the transmission was okay. The price was too much from my liking although i got it from 11500 like a 1k euros but at 10k would be okay 10500 still to much with no invoices of service except in the little book written when was the oil changed.

On the other hand i have an e92 330d with the m57 for 7k euros and 330k km with the major service done 30k km ago. It had sun roof the little screen everyone wants at least here silver leather seats and m package.

Hey gang!

I’m trying to make my interior feel bespoke, individual, unique, and luxurious. When I first got this car, I had a specific vision:

-B/W houndstooth seat centers
-black headliner and pillars
-aluminum pedals (this photo was taken before I installed them. I do currently have aluminum pedals and an M Performance dead pedal)
-satin carbon fiber trim (wrapped in 3M by yours truly)
-re-wrapping the steering wheel with bumps at the 10 and 2 o’clock position, smooth leather at 12 and 6, perforated at 9 and 3, and black stitching. Retain the black and chrome trim
-brushed aluminum F-style shifter
-aluminum iDrive controls
-aluminum window switches

But I kind of realized that, everyone sort of does this. I’m considering taking a new direction. I want to lean into a refined luxurious style and step away from a sportier one. I stopped looking at my car as an M3 competitor, and started looking at it as a luxurious grand tourer with ridiculous straight line speed, and want to try to encapsulate that experience and feeling.

My new concept is a lot of the same stuff that I wanted/already did, but:
-satin black center console
-black oak grain dash and door trim (vinyl wrap)
-BMW Individual steering wheel with ring and badge

Yes the second photo is AI, I just don’t want to spend tens of hours and thousands of dollars doing it only to realize I don’t like it, but I do find the rendering incredibly helpful. Just wanted to get some opinions from the community! What do you guys think? Beautiful? Tacky? Perfect? Lacking? What can be improved?

Thanks ahead!

Edit: 2010 E90 318i N46

Went to the mall, 30 minutes later car didn't start. DME no communication, engine light on when ignition is on. No corrosion on battery or lines. Ebox completely dry. All fuses getting signal except 37, 38, and 39 (ECM and fuel and ignition) they have ground but no power. DME is receiving ground and power. Relays click powered. Any recommendations would really be helpful. Thank you

I've recently had my valve cover (left side of the engine) repaired, now it started burning oil from the right side. What could be the issue?

So I’m getting multiple symbols on dash and idrive. Red car on a lift with message saying brake pads are worn, shoes front and rear in the status page of idrive. Both came on at the exact same time last week. Also a constant red “brake” on the dash, like you would see with the parking brake on.

Anyways, I ordered a new set of Hawk pads and was taking the old pads off the front left (where front sensor is), and low and behold the pads still have tons of life left (8-9mm at least). Sensor in the front looks in good condition too, not worn down or damaged. Also checked brake fluid reservoir and it’s at the max.

Brakes, rotors, and fluid were all replaced 20k miles ago.

I’m just stumped as to why I’m getting all these indications. Any ideas on troubleshooting?

334, Anyone knows how to put on the DSC again?

One of my halogen angel eye bulbs burned out on my pre-lci. It’s just an h10w halogen bulb and I’ve seen videos of people just replacing the bulb itself but those are all lci where the reflector is different. I’m wondering if anyone knows whether the bulb in the pre lci 63117161444 is permanently attached to its reflector or if it can be separated? I’ve seen some forum comments that seem to suggest it’s stuck and I don’t feel like buying the whole reflector from BMW for the price of gta 6. If it’s stuck I might just get an LED swap instead idk.

Ox2A9A crankshaft - intake camshaft,
synchronization
OX2A9B crankshaft - exhaust camshaft,
synchronization

2A98
Ox2A98 crankshaft - intake camshatt, reference

I can’t seem to find a part number for the side skirt clips for my 08 e90 m3. They are different from the later model it seems.

REALOEM doesn’t lair the correct clip, anyone have any ideas?

I have replaced the AMP and the head unit and can’t for the life of me figure out what the issue is or find any videos… hopefully someone on here has an answer. The fiber optic works to the new amp but after the amp seems to be not working. Is that a problem? Also not sure if the part that the fibre optic connects to after the amp is important or not?

Hi all,

Last night I swapped the intake manifold on my N52B25 to one with two DISA's instead of one. To my understanding, this makes it mechanically identical to the N52B25 325i.

When I was researching this swap, the coding aspect of it in forums seemed largely glossed over or made to seem far simpler than it actually is for someone with no prior BMW knowledge.

Is there anyone here that would be able to assist me by walking me through the process as well as where to find the correct data files as well as what edits to make.

I am willing to pay something if anyone can conclusively help me. I chatted to a couple of local BMW coders near me but none were very confidence inspiring

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone. Please help me. I have these codes. Fully restored the engine. Changed the Vanos. But anyway …

Cześć wszystkim, mam frustrujący problem z moim BMW E90 z 2006 roku (Pre-LCI) i całkowicie utknąłem.

Objawy:
Pilot jest akceptowany przez slot (wpada na miejsce poprawnie).
Radio, nawigacja, światła i wszystkie akcesoria działają normalnie.

Zapalanie całkowicie odmawia włączenia.
Deska rozdzielcza/wyświetlacz jest czarny, a wszystkie akcesoria gasną.
Nie ma ikony blokady kierownicy (kłódka) na desce. Kierownica jest fizycznie odblokowana i obraca się swobodnie.

Co do tej pory zrobiłem:
Sprawdziłem Bezpiecznik 59 (7,5A) oraz bezpieczniki 4 i 51 – wszystkie są w 100% sprawne.
Odłączyłem akumulator na ponad 15 minut, aby wymusić twardy reset.
Podłączyłem dedykowany emulator E90 ELV, ale to nic nie zmieniło. Kierownica zachowuje się losowo z oryginalnym zamkiem w każdym razie.

EDIT: Just unplugged blue plug from ibs minut terminal and it is working for now, I will replace minus terminal and it should work again

Yesterday I broke my abs sensor harness ? I took one from the scrapyard but seems it didnt work (no signal from the abs sensor). Is doing splices for abs sensor bad ? Do i need to replace the whole cable or they generally work and i did it badly. I ordered a whole new sensor with a harness and willing to do a splice again but is it worth it

The good old coin test after 188TKM