After 5 years sitting abandoned I finally got our BMW E30 running!

Admittedly it’s a long way from being back on the road but hearing it roar into life after sitting so long, requiring only minor fettling, has certainly reignited my passion for the car.

I documented the whole process from giving it its first wash to diagnosing and repairing the fault that was preventing it starting

I want to daily it

What headers are somewhat affordable and don’t have fitment issues, I keep seeing these cheap eBay sets on different sites but I’ve heard of people having fitment issues with the eBay header sets for these cars, mines cars got a 2.7 m20

Had the car resprayed at Macco for $2500 (pulled the trim and bumpers then tapped it myself) then had it wetsanded by another local body shop around $1000. For $3500 I am happy with the results.

Hi all,
I am fighting a super low clutch engagement in my m20/G260 swapped E21 (posting here because it’s a full e30 drivetrain).

I read about different bell housing heights and throw out bearing heights. Obviously, I was not privy to this information when I completed the swap.

I likely have the 30mm throw out bearing when I really need the ~31mm throw out bearing.

My question is can I make up for this difference with a longer slave cylinder shaft? I’d reallllly like to not have to drop the transmission. I figure lengthening the shaft or buying an adjustable one would be miles easier.

Thank you!

PFA

Figured I'd make this post since I couldn't find anything online about installing the Garagistic E30 roll bar with X-brace in a sedan specifically. There's some info out there for coupes, but seems like the sedan's smaller door openings made things more difficult. Hopefully this helps someone else down the road.

Order, Delivery & Product Quality

• Ordered during their July 4th 2026 sale. Took ~14 weeks to arrive.
• Had a few headaches with shipping and logistics. Garagistic customer service was very responsive and friendly, but still had some issues to work around.
• Delivered on a pallet via a large box truck. Packaged well and arrived without any damage.
• Overall, really happy with the quality. I'm no fabrication expert, but the welds and construction look good to me.
• Ordered it in bare metal, arrived with some minor surface rust which was easily sanded off. Spray painted it with STEEL-IT Steel Gray (a bit pricey but lays super nice)

Installation: What NOT to Do

• DO NOT try to install it through the rear doors. This was a huge mistake. Their YouTube video makes it look pretty straightforward, but they're installing it in a coupe with a much larger front door opening.
• Since I couldn't find any sedan specific instructions, I figured going through the rear doors would give me easy access to the back of the car. I was very wrong.
• Spent hours trying all sorts of angles and rotations through both passenger and driver side rear doors. Ended up removing all the seats, seat mounts, and even both rear doors. I felt in some instances I was close but it just wouldn't get all the way in.
• Unfortunately, I scratched and dented my interior pretty badly in the process, along with messing up the fresh paint on the roll bar.
• I was doing this solo, which definitely didn't help. It's doable, but not easy.
• Entering on the driver's side seemed to have a little more room because of the diagonal brace lands on the passenger side, but still wasn't enough.

Installation: What Actually Worked

• Eventually called Garagistic and they recommended shoehorning it through the front door.
• Started feeding it through the front driver side door, tilting and rotating it until I got about halfway in and over the transmission tunnel.
• Kept getting hung up on different parts of the interior. Ended up removing the driver front door, center console, shifter, steering wheel, and wheel hub adapter to free up more room. This was hardly enough as the roll bar was still hitting the steering column and dashboard against my best efforts.
• Shoved the front feet as deep into the front footwell as I could while continuing to angle the bar into the car.
• Once I got really close, the last foot was still getting just barely hung up on the B-pillar. At that point, I pretty much forced it past and almost flexing the roll bar to squeeze the foot in. It damaged the interior of the B pillar scraping it all along the way, but it was in. I don't see how I could have been able to get the roll bar in without scraping the B pillar.
• The space between the both sides of the B-pillars on both sides is tight and took some force to rock the bar up and back towards the rear. Once it cleared the B-pillars, it was smooth sailing to get the roll bar up and into its final mounting position.
• It's definitely a tight fit (this is with the sunroof/headliner), which is nice once it's in place, but squeezing it into the sedan was a brute of an experience and I do not want to do that again.

I'm not sure if there's a way to install this into a sedan without scratching and dinging things up on the way in. Other roll bars that are multi-piece likely would be easier to install, but I do have comfort knowing the Garagistic roll bar is a solid single piece. Hopefully this info is helpful to other E30 sedan owners looking to do the same.

Hi,today i wanted to start the e30 but i met this noise instead.Can anyone Tell me what it is.I think its the alternator but im Not sure.Thanks in advance.

They used to be the go-to for “cheap” BBK for other platforms, but I’ve never seen anything about them for e30s and I’ve never seen anyone say why. Especially after going to 5-lug. Anyone have any actual insight as to why?

Hello yall,

just wondering is there any information as to what these studs could be? These are on the OEM 325i headers, where they split in two. ( yes they were very bad )

I can’t find any information on realoem and i’m not even sure how to search for these, if anyone has tackled this before i’d appreciate the info!

Finally some cold weather in the south…
This build absolutely loves it!
Best sound in the world🎺🎺
Ignore the m10 tic lol

Hi all -
Im considering either selling my E30 318i M40 for a 318is or 325i or engine swapping as I’m in need something slightly more fun than this slow 318i auto.

Ive been advised that an M52 is the easiest straight forward swap - is that so? What’s the best way about it? My budget is around £2000. Ideally I’d want to put a new auto gearbox it - don’t think I have the energy to be switching gears with a manual as I daily my E30…

TIA

1991 325i, M20B25, automatic. First video shows cold crank after 24 hours. Second video shows cold start.

This grinding and knocking sound started yesterday, but for the past 2 weeks I have had to hold the ignition for a few cycles before the engine would start. The noise continues after starting the engine, but fades as it warms up.

Pulled spark plugs and one cylinder smelled slightly of gasoline. Oil level is fine, and there was no glitter on the dipstick. I suspect a leaking fuel injector may be stripping the oil in a cylinder, and causing the cylinder to run dry until oil flows back to it.

My current plan is to ultrasonically clean and rebuild my injectors, and I have already ordered the tools and supplies to do so, but I would appreciate any additional insights if anybody knows exactly what is going on.

This is my daily driver, so I would also like to know if it is even safe to drive, or if I am risking permanent damage.

Thanks!

1988 325i, M20B25, automatic. Video attached: cold start after sitting 6 days (sound on).

The problem
- If the car sits for 5 days or more, it cranks about 1 second and catches, but then runs very rough for 10 to 20 seconds. It feels like 1 or 2 cylinders are dead. Sometimes it stalls on the first try.
- Right after start there's a strong raw fuel smell from the exhaust.
- Revving to about 3,000 rpm clears it right away. After that it runs perfectly, and it starts fine for the next 2 to 3 days.
- It got worse over July to September until it wouldn't start at all and had to be towed.

Already done
- New injectors, spark plugs and timing belt this spring
- Head work in April
- In September the shop added fuel check valves (front and rear). Rail pressure now holds after shutdown. They told me they checked the injectors and didn't think they were the problem, but I'm not sure what test they did, or if they actually tested them at all.
- Distributor cap, rotor and plug wires are still original.

My guess
One injector drips while the car sits and floods that cylinder. Cap/rotor/wires plus moisture is my second guess, but I don't think moisture would clear instantly at 3k rpm.

Questions

1. Does this sound like a leaking injector, or am I missing something?
2. What's the easiest way to find which cylinder it is, without much equipment?
3. Has anyone had a new injector leak like this?

Thanks!

I'm curious for those who have replaced OEM parts with either other BMW model parts or aftermarket upgrades, what was the single best upgrade you think you've done to your E30 and why?

hey everyone,

just picked up some rays gramlights in 15x8. what tire size is everyyone running for this? I want a comfortable ride as its just a e30 touring wagon (bagged) and my wife just cruises it for fun. i dont want it to look too meaty but not too stretched either, and dont want to run into fitment issues or hitting stuff when it airs down when parked. i was thinking maybe a 195/50? or 205/50 is better? TYIA

Dumb question, I got a fat stain on my operating lever. So im seeking to tinplate or spray paint it or something. Im wondering if its possible to just remove the top part the paret that you poull when you want to rev the car? While keeping the rest on the vehicle? I want to tin plate that part but dont want to take the whole thing to the shop cuz they might mess it up lol. Thoughts? https://imgur.com/a/QSvWVhe