Title says it all, should I go lower? I’d like to drop another inch so it’ll tuck the same as the rear, but my front coilovers are maxed. Car is xdrive, on ECS coilovers and on 18s, so if anyone has recommendations please lmk.

Taking a dookie on this sub again.

Hey guys,
I took on my gauge cluster because I was tired of the standard rings the non M models come with. I ordered a pair of matte silver rings from AliExpress.

The first pain was to remove the plexiglass screen of my gauge cluster without breaking it. Mine got some cracks the first time I tried getting it out and I chose to buy another used gauge cluster to retry taking that piece off.

It worked the next time as I cut it out with a dremel and heated it up multiple times with a heat fan.

To the M3 rings: they were a pain in the a** to install as the fitment was really bad. I was not able to stick them on properly on the underside of the cluster.

As my US model 335i had US specific symbols for the Check Engine Light as well as the handbrake light saying "brake" I changed the cover out for a european one with the EU specific symbols as I imported my 335i to Germany.

The last pic shows my cluster after my first attempt to reglue my plexiglass screen with super glue (never ever do this, it will put a withe haze on your instruments!)

All in all it was a really time consuming project and the next time I would just buy a used M3 cluster and let it get virginized by a coder.

What do you guys think? Does it look good? Have you done this DIY yourself too?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2011 BMW E92 325i with the N52 engine, currently at approximately 112,640 km (70,000 miles).

I’ve noticed that my engine consistently idles at around 800–850 RPM, even under the following conditions:

Engine fully warmed up
A/C turned on
Transmission in Park or Neutral
Idle is stable, with no noticeable RPM fluctuations
I checked the live data using BimmerLink and confirmed the following:
Actual engine speed: 847 RPM
DME target idle speed: 840 RPM
Engine oil temperature: 101°C
Coolant temperature: 81°C
Battery voltage: 14.34 V
Air mass: 22.19 kg/h
Oil pressure: 1.76 bar

The interesting part is that the engine is following the DME’s requested idle speed almost exactly.

My questions:

Is a target idle speed of 840 RPM normal for a fully warmed-up N52?

What conditions would cause the DME to request a higher idle speed with the A/C off?

Could this be related to battery management, adaptations, or previous coding?

Has anyone experienced this on an E90/E92 with the N52?

I’m not experiencing unstable idle. I’m mainly trying to understand why the DME is requesting 840 RPM instead of approximately 650–700 RPM.

Any insights or suggestions on which parameters to check with ISTA or BimmerLink would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Hey gang!

I’m trying to make my interior feel bespoke, individual, unique, and luxurious. When I first got this car, I had a specific vision:

-B/W houndstooth seat centers
-black headliner and pillars
-aluminum pedals (this photo was taken before I installed them. I do currently have aluminum pedals and an M Performance dead pedal)
-satin carbon fiber trim (wrapped in 3M by yours truly)
-re-wrapping the steering wheel with bumps at the 10 and 2 o’clock position, smooth leather at 12 and 6, perforated at 9 and 3, and black stitching. Retain the black and chrome trim
-brushed aluminum F-style shifter
-aluminum iDrive controls
-aluminum window switches

But I kind of realized that, everyone sort of does this. I’m considering taking a new direction. I want to lean into a refined luxurious style and step away from a sportier one. I stopped looking at my car as an M3 competitor, and started looking at it as a luxurious grand tourer with ridiculous straight line speed, and want to try to encapsulate that experience and feeling.

My new concept is a lot of the same stuff that I wanted/already did, but:
-satin black center console
-black oak grain dash and door trim (vinyl wrap)
-BMW Individual steering wheel with ring and badge

Yes the second photo is AI, I just don’t want to spend tens of hours and thousands of dollars doing it only to realize I don’t like it, but I do find the rendering incredibly helpful. Just wanted to get some opinions from the community! What do you guys think? Beautiful? Tacky? Perfect? Lacking? What can be improved?

Thanks ahead!

334, Anyone knows how to put on the DSC again?

The good old coin test after 188TKM

Hey everyone,

Looking at picking up a 2008 E92 325i in Australia. It’s stock, has a good interior, and features an automatic with paddle shifters. Not sure how many Kms currently.

The catch is it’s been sitting parked for a year and its rego expired last month (Sept 2026). Assuming it will need a tow, battery, tyres, brake rotor refresh, and a Victorian Roadworthy (RWC) before hitting the road.

My questions:

1. What is a fair offer for an unregistered, non-running E92 sitting for 12 months in Aus?
2. What specific things should I look out for on a car that has sat outdoors for a year (This is my first car so would like to know as much as possible as to what to look out for)?

Hey guy I got e87 (some pre lci e9x got the same) with oem headlight with xenon and angel eyes. But the angel eyes lens is burned and light can’t get through the full circles. Is there way to repair it or I need to replace whole headlight ?

I have replaced the AMP and the head unit and can’t for the life of me figure out what the issue is or find any videos… hopefully someone on here has an answer. The fiber optic works to the new amp but after the amp seems to be not working. Is that a problem? Also not sure if the part that the fibre optic connects to after the amp is important or not?

So I’m getting multiple symbols on dash and idrive. Red car on a lift with message saying brake pads are worn, shoes front and rear in the status page of idrive. Both came on at the exact same time last week. Also a constant red “brake” on the dash, like you would see with the parking brake on.

Anyways, I ordered a new set of Hawk pads and was taking the old pads off the front left (where front sensor is), and low and behold the pads still have tons of life left (8-9mm at least). Sensor in the front looks in good condition too, not worn down or damaged. Also checked brake fluid reservoir and it’s at the max.

Brakes, rotors, and fluid were all replaced 20k miles ago.

I’m just stumped as to why I’m getting all these indications. Any ideas on troubleshooting?

I just changed my window regulator on my rear driver door and the headlight on my car. After it worked perfect and then about an hour later after driving it around the locks no longer lock or unlock with the key, the key fob isn’t dead because the lights to show it’s locked or unlocked still turn on and off it’s literally just the locks on EVERY door no longer move with the press of the key even with the lock and unlock all button inside the car it doesn’t work or make anything happen what could cause this?

Hi all,

Last night I swapped the intake manifold on my N52B25 to one with two DISA's instead of one. To my understanding, this makes it mechanically identical to the N52B25 325i.

When I was researching this swap, the coding aspect of it in forums seemed largely glossed over or made to seem far simpler than it actually is for someone with no prior BMW knowledge.

Is there anyone here that would be able to assist me by walking me through the process as well as where to find the correct data files as well as what edits to make.

I am willing to pay something if anyone can conclusively help me. I chatted to a couple of local BMW coders near me but none were very confidence inspiring

Thanks in advance!

I've noticed a bit of a wobble that can be felt at low speeds mostly when I park in the underground garage. There is no clunk noise or anything like that. I did notice the suspension feeling a bit lighter, but not much. Pushing down the rear end did not give me any signs, no noise and car lifts up normally. I also heard more rolling noise when driving at higher speeds.

Trying to determine if this is a rear suspension issue or maybe just worn tires. Did not put a lot of mileage on these tyres - under 20k kilometres, but the tyres will be 6 years old in 2027. And I also had one of the tyres repaired for a nail like 6 months back.

In the first pic is left side and in the second the right side view.

Would appreciate any opinions.

I replaced my valve cover and gasket 6 months ago - things were OK for a few months then got some oil smell. I realized I'm an idiot and completely missed one of the bolts at the back. I torqued that down and it was fine for another 2 or 3 months. Suddenly I'm getting an oil smell again and some smoke that looks like it's from the passenger side (US car - LHD). I was going to replace just the gasket with OEM but then remembered that the Mahle came with a 1 year warranty. If this were you, would you buy an OEM gasket, or would you have the whole cover/gasket replaced? Doing the work myself again, which I'm not looking forward to, but I'll be more careful this time. I had already done the OFHG and that isn't leaking so I'm pretty sure it's the valve cover gasket. I do see some oil often on the metal shields beneath it, but I know those are two-ply and oil gets trapped in them and released when heated up, so tough to say where exactly the leak is but I'm thinking it must be the valve cover (the gasket shows some light weeping in the visible areas

Hello. I’ve got a question, since its getting colder i have problem. Whenever the car sits for like 8h, especially in the morning, like today it dropped to (0+ celsius) whenever i start the car, first 5 seconds feels rough, rpm is jumping, car shakes a bit, like choking. I’ve done some research, and from information on internet. It could be either glowplugs , glowplug relay, or injectors leaking. Maybe someone else have / had same problem. ( E91, 2.0, 120kw )