Just showing it to you guys, I know next to nothing on it except the draw length might be too big for me

Was sighting in my bow over the weekend, and was amused with how this arrow was destroyed. It missed my target, and hit some concrete slabs behind it.

This is the oak ridge black sada and I was told that it somewhat resembles a Korean bow but I wanted a second opinion.

Not that I care too much. I am merely curious.

Ok, I am borrowing a different bow that has a 20 pound weight draw. Y'all said the horse bow I had was too heavy at 35 pounds 😭

I am holding it now where it doesn't slap my loose skin. I'm asking for a form check again. I drew all the way back to the corner of my mouth this time, as scary as that was. I don't want to slap my face with the string if something goes wrong.

Anyway, please check this newbie's form and get back to me 😋 How's it looking to y'all?

I’m currently practicing how to maintain continuous expansion (push-and-pull tension) through the shot. My main issue is that the moment I release, I tend to suddenly drop my tension, which leads to dead releases, plucking, and my bow hand collapsing inward. Recently, some archers at my club suggested that right before the clicker goes off, I should slightly and actively relax my draw hand fingers to ensure a crisper and cleaner release. However, my former coach always told me never to think about or control the fingers. The advice was to focus entirely on the continuous movement of the forearm and back expansion, allowing the string to just push the passive fingers open naturally.

Who's advice is correct?

I’m in the market for a compound bow for hunting.
At the moment I’m located in Europe and it’s hard to find stores that sell Bear bows the market is mostly Mathew’s and Hoyt. Also most of the stores here do not have “expensive” bows in stock and if they do, you cannot try them out without buying it first.

I’m leaning towards buying a Bear Alaskan Pro “package” (RTH in the US) or a 2027 Bear WhiteTail NXT “pro package” (RTH+).

The white tail is a little more expensive but they are both around a ~$1100 here the White tail is ~$200 more. The new white tail has tunable limbs that look compelling to me, but then again I’m not an expert.

I have to wait 8-12 weeks for either bow to arrive.

Could you guys give me some advice so I can make an educated decision?

Do these bows make any sense or should I wait and save up a little more and go for an arc34 or an AX-3?

Any help is much appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I'm new to archery, and I'm trying to decide which type of bow to focus on. My preference is traditional archery, but my trainer recommends that I go with a recurve bow because of my draw length. My prerence comes from wanting to have the more simple bow possible.

I'm 193 cm (6'4") tall and my trainer measured my draw length at around 32 inches. I've been told that this could make things more complicated when choosing a traditional bow.

Is a 32" draw length really a significant problem for traditional archery?

For those of you with a long draw length, what setups are you using, and would you recommend them?

I'm not particularly interested in competing at this stage. I mainly want to enjoy archery, develop good technique, and potentially compete in the future.

Thanks for any feedback!

Hey all! I'm in the market to buy a new crossbow for hunting whitetail. I usually borrow my Dad's but its about 10 years old so its wide and kinda heavy. I'm trying to find something reliable and under $500.
I've been looking at different Barnett crossbows but the reviews are so mixed. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!

Looking for advice on my Mathews Z7 Extreme. I’m getting bullet holes through paper at close range, groups are tight, but my rest seems farther toward the riser than I’d expect.

Center shot measures between 11/16” and 3/4” from the inside of the riser to the center of the arrow. My cable rollers are visible along the edge of the sight housing at full draw. They aren’t blocking my pins, but it got me questioning the setup.

Looking at the undrawn bow from behind, the top idler appears to have a little lean. The string doesn’t look like it continues straight along the wheel’s plane—it angles slightly to one side as it leaves the wheel. I haven’t checked it at full draw on a draw board.

Setup:

• 70 lb, 28.5” draw
• QAD drop-away
• Trophy Ridge React H5
• 300-spine arrows, approximately 420–423 grains

Is some idler lean at rest normal on these? Would you check the yoke adjustment before accepting that center-shot position, or can this be a normal setup if clearance and groups check out?

Trying to figure out if I’m compensating for something with the rest or overthinking it.

Okay, so I've seen arrow type mentioned a few times on this sub reddit; could someone explain the importance of it aswell as what the different types are and where to find them, please.

Hello I currently shoot compound competitive archery with a hout strados 40in. Im wanting to start bow hunting. I have had people tell me just swap arrows and use my strados. So has anyone used a larger bow comfortably from a stand or anything or should yall recommend to buy a different bow. I am using a 5 pin vertical sight but im open to changing anything. My draw Weight is 58lb and my draw length is 27.5 and I use a longhorn micro pro hinge. I am willing to buying this or another bow but am not trying to break the bank.

Its payday time, and I wish to treat myself to a new riser. I currently shoot an original hoyt gmx, and really love the deep, muted, almost dead in the hand shot feel.

However, I want a second bow, and move the gmx to backup. I shoot a 25" riser, and really like the look and colours of the mkxg, and after seeing the fivics bows world archery provided to some Dakar participants, Im curious in them too. I would love to move to a carbon riser as well, but unfortunately thats just not possible as the weather here seems to kill carbon options.

Weight is not a problem for me, but possibly heavier is preferable. I shoot somewhat high poundage (48lbs) at a 29.5" DL, and my budget is anywhere below 10000 usd, so basically unlimited. I also couldn't really care less of quality of life tuning improvements, as long as everything stays stable and doesn't move/break.

Thank you all

For EFAA OR IFAA as i know they follow the same rules. What is the max distances barebow shoots on either targets or 3d, i know in WA it changes on bow categories so barebow never shoots over 50m on a marked course or 45 on unmarked

Thank you

Hi all,

I found a gap opening up in my wooden recurve riser, just above the grip near the arrow shelf. It looks like the laminations are separating along a glue line, and you can see light through it (photo attached).

Is this repairable (e.g., with epoxy and clamping)?