Looking for a compound bow, 70lbs draw weight that won't break on me. This seems pretty good but it's quite relatively cheap. Wondering if this will be a solid purchase.

First option is Core Shift takedown bow, the other is a Ragim Matrix Evo handle + Ragim limb matrix

The instructor recommended a 66 inch bow with 24 pound draw weight

The core is 66 24 and the ragim is 66 but 22

They are around the same price.

Also I don’t have much options locally so kinda stuck between these two.

I'm in the market for my first compound bow. It will be a hunter mainly for 3D (no actual hunting, it's illegal to hunt with bows in my neck of woods), 33-ish ATA (I can be persuaded to go longer), and I'm leaning very much towards buy-once-cry-once option, and I do not plan to change/upgrade my compund bow in next 3-5 years (unless some radical new technology comes along).

I've narrowed down my picks to:

1. Darton Tritech 33 (~1300 EUR)
2. Hoyt AX-3 33 (~1400 EUR)

(price difference is low enough I can go either way price-wise)

After asking around at my local club I found out there is a used Hoyt VTM 34 for sale (~800 EUR).

I do not have any shops around me to test bows, best I can do is ask people at club if I see someone with my bow picks. I'm currently leaning strongly towards Darton, mainly because it looks good on paper, has mostly great reviews on internet, is often favored over AX-3, and most importantly a friend of mine shot it on EU chaps and came ?second? in his category, and he says it's a very good bow (he's been through a lot of bows).

But then the used Hoys is almost half the price, but doesn't have the same adjustability (1/4" DL adjustment without press, etc.).

I plan to shoot Darton (when I catch my friend in the woods) and the used Hoyt (I'll be doing this today), but I have no option to try AX-3.

I guess my question is: is it worth it to go for the old used Hoyt model and give up what to me seem like minor improvements (adjustability of the bow), but my friend tout these improvements as significant QOL features? Going used would save me enough money to get rest and sight (and maybe some other stuff) for the price of new one...

Like how big are really these adjustment/tuning features on a compound bow? Are they really so convenient?

I shoot for 2 days every 2 weeks and for the rest of the time my bow stays hidden in my room.

Is it too late to buy a bow and deer hunt with it this year? I shot a bit as a kid but nothing recent. How long would u suggest practicing before taking it out into the woods? Also, what is a good budget compound deer hunting bow?

I'm looking at getting my first compound bow and could use some advice from people with more experience.

Right now, I'm considering the Sanlida Dragon 8, mainly to get shooting as soon as possible, the Bear Legit MAXX, or something from the Blackout series at Bass Pro with my employee discount.

My plan is to spend the next few months learning the fundamentals and working on my form. That said, I'd prefer to get something that will be capable of hunting whitetail within the next year, ideally without needing to replace the bow or make major upgrades.

I'm trying to keep things budget-friendly without sacrificing quality. If I go with a ready-to-hunt package, my plan is to shoot it as-is until the accessories wear out or give me a good reason to replace them. At the same time, I'd like to start figuring out what potential upgrades would make sense down the road and make sure they're compatible with whichever bow I end up buying.

This is where my knowledge gets pretty thin. I know very little about rests, sights, peep sights, releases, and what separates a decent option from a good one. I'm not looking to build some high-end setup right out of the gate, but I don't want to waste money buying things twice, either.

For those of you with experience with these bows, or who have put together a similar budget setup, what would you recommend? Are there accessories worth spending a little extra on from the beginning, and others that are perfectly fine to use straight out of the box?

I'm also open to suggestions for other bows and accessories in similar price ranges. Those recommendations are welcome and appreciated, even if they're outside the options I'm currently considering.

The goal is to get out there, learn the right way, and hopefully be ready for deer season next year without having to start over with different equipment.

So I’ve decided to get into archery after years of admiring it, and lack of spearfishing in my new home. Even got a buffalo on my first ever hunt with a lucky shot.

My question is. How much does arrow quality actually affect your shot, most hunting shops around here have arrows from around $4-10aud each but there’s tonnes on eBay that look identical for 50c each ect. I only used cheap arrows and broadheads for the buffalo and it worked but I’m just curious how different an arrow can make it with quality ect cheers

So I shot archery in high school 9th-12th grade. I absolutely loved it being a hunter my whole life. I got into crossbow hunting and got my first bow kill on a buck last year. I’m looking for a compound to get into compound hunting and 3D shooting but have no idea what to look for. I’ve been looking at the mission stryde but I don’t know if this is a good choice? Let me know you’re thoughts please or specific bow models I should look into

hi everyone, i recently got a new pse evolve ds 30, switching from my pse ferocity which i’ve had since 2018, anyway i got the bow took it to the shop and got it setup, i also got a new 4 pin pic mount sight that i had put on, anyway ive put maybe 4-500 arrows through it the last few weeks and i cannot seem to get super consistent groups like i did with my ferocity, im not the greatest shot in the world but im decent enough to have decent groups out at 50 yards, some of my groups are pretty decent others its all over the place, im wondering if its a combination of me getting used to the bow, and the old wicker biscuit i got on there. im not really sure how to handle this so any advice would be appreciated. p.s i killed a nice 10 point yesterday with it :)

Hello I currently shoot compound competitive archery with a hout strados 40in. Im wanting to start bow hunting. I have had people tell me just swap arrows and use my strados. So has anyone used a larger bow comfortably from a stand or anything or should yall recommend to buy a different bow. I am using a 5 pin vertical sight but im open to changing anything. My draw Weight is 58lb and my draw length is 27.5 and I use a longhorn micro pro hinge. I am willing to buying this or another bow but am not trying to break the bank.

I’m in the market for a compound bow for hunting.
At the moment I’m located in Europe and it’s hard to find stores that sell Bear bows the market is mostly Mathew’s and Hoyt. Also most of the stores here do not have “expensive” bows in stock and if they do, you cannot try them out without buying it first.

I’m leaning towards buying a Bear Alaskan Pro “package” (RTH in the US) or a 2027 Bear WhiteTail NXT “pro package” (RTH+).

The white tail is a little more expensive but they are both around a ~$1100 here the White tail is ~$200 more. The new white tail has tunable limbs that look compelling to me, but then again I’m not an expert.

I have to wait 8-12 weeks for either bow to arrive.

Could you guys give me some advice so I can make an educated decision?

Do these bows make any sense or should I wait and save up a little more and go for an arc34 or an AX-3?

Any help is much appreciated!

Thanks!

Was sighting in my bow over the weekend, and was amused with how this arrow was destroyed. It missed my target, and hit some concrete slabs behind it.

Looking for advice on my Mathews Z7 Extreme. I’m getting bullet holes through paper at close range, groups are tight, but my rest seems farther toward the riser than I’d expect.

Center shot measures between 11/16” and 3/4” from the inside of the riser to the center of the arrow. My cable rollers are visible along the edge of the sight housing at full draw. They aren’t blocking my pins, but it got me questioning the setup.

Looking at the undrawn bow from behind, the top idler appears to have a little lean. The string doesn’t look like it continues straight along the wheel’s plane—it angles slightly to one side as it leaves the wheel. I haven’t checked it at full draw on a draw board.

Setup:

• 70 lb, 28.5” draw
• QAD drop-away
• Trophy Ridge React H5
• 300-spine arrows, approximately 420–423 grains

Is some idler lean at rest normal on these? Would you check the yoke adjustment before accepting that center-shot position, or can this be a normal setup if clearance and groups check out?

Trying to figure out if I’m compensating for something with the rest or overthinking it.

Okay, so I've seen arrow type mentioned a few times on this sub reddit; could someone explain the importance of it aswell as what the different types are and where to find them, please.

Its payday time, and I wish to treat myself to a new riser. I currently shoot an original hoyt gmx, and really love the deep, muted, almost dead in the hand shot feel.

However, I want a second bow, and move the gmx to backup. I shoot a 25" riser, and really like the look and colours of the mkxg, and after seeing the fivics bows world archery provided to some Dakar participants, Im curious in them too. I would love to move to a carbon riser as well, but unfortunately thats just not possible as the weather here seems to kill carbon options.

Weight is not a problem for me, but possibly heavier is preferable. I shoot somewhat high poundage (48lbs) at a 29.5" DL, and my budget is anywhere below 10000 usd, so basically unlimited. I also couldn't really care less of quality of life tuning improvements, as long as everything stays stable and doesn't move/break.

Thank you all

Ok, I am borrowing a different bow that has a 20 pound weight draw. Y'all said the horse bow I had was too heavy at 35 pounds 😭

I am holding it now where it doesn't slap my loose skin. I'm asking for a form check again. I drew all the way back to the corner of my mouth this time, as scary as that was. I don't want to slap my face with the string if something goes wrong.

Anyway, please check this newbie's form and get back to me 😋 How's it looking to y'all?

Hi everyone!

I'm new to archery, and I'm trying to decide which type of bow to focus on. My preference is traditional archery, but my trainer recommends that I go with a recurve bow because of my draw length. My prerence comes from wanting to have the more simple bow possible.

I'm 193 cm (6'4") tall and my trainer measured my draw length at around 32 inches. I've been told that this could make things more complicated when choosing a traditional bow.

Is a 32" draw length really a significant problem for traditional archery?

For those of you with a long draw length, what setups are you using, and would you recommend them?

I'm not particularly interested in competing at this stage. I mainly want to enjoy archery, develop good technique, and potentially compete in the future.

Thanks for any feedback!

I’m currently practicing how to maintain continuous expansion (push-and-pull tension) through the shot. My main issue is that the moment I release, I tend to suddenly drop my tension, which leads to dead releases, plucking, and my bow hand collapsing inward. Recently, some archers at my club suggested that right before the clicker goes off, I should slightly and actively relax my draw hand fingers to ensure a crisper and cleaner release. However, my former coach always told me never to think about or control the fingers. The advice was to focus entirely on the continuous movement of the forearm and back expansion, allowing the string to just push the passive fingers open naturally.

Who's advice is correct?

This is the oak ridge black sada and I was told that it somewhat resembles a Korean bow but I wanted a second opinion.

Not that I care too much. I am merely curious.

For EFAA OR IFAA as i know they follow the same rules. What is the max distances barebow shoots on either targets or 3d, i know in WA it changes on bow categories so barebow never shoots over 50m on a marked course or 45 on unmarked

Thank you

Hi all,

I found a gap opening up in my wooden recurve riser, just above the grip near the arrow shelf. It looks like the laminations are separating along a glue line, and you can see light through it (photo attached).

Is this repairable (e.g., with epoxy and clamping)?

Hey all! I'm in the market to buy a new crossbow for hunting whitetail. I usually borrow my Dad's but its about 10 years old so its wide and kinda heavy. I'm trying to find something reliable and under $500.
I've been looking at different Barnett crossbows but the reviews are so mixed. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!

Just showing it to you guys, I know next to nothing on it except the draw length might be too big for me

So I bought this as something to do in the winter months in Vermont.

I went to a local shop to add a nock, because well, it's what I used in the past and I'm very, very rusty with shooting a bow (and never a traditional).

So here's my question. When I asked for a nock, the guy told me to hold bow as shown in pic 1-2. I shot for an hour, with varying success (I mean, some groupings, and some wild shots).

But looking online, and logic, makes me think that having the arrow pass on the top makes more sense? Pic 3

I'm a little lost.

Anyway, I'm not even sure which way is up now... And if I'm supposed to shift my grip to the mid point and arrow on top of knuckle? Pic 4-5

I appreciate all of y'all, I'm not used to not having a defined arrow rest.

If you're willing to post a pic of you with yours, in the proper spot, it would mean a great deal to me. Google led me in circles for the past hour...

I’m looking for a new bow case (w wheels) for a 37” ata bow, I only plan to carry one bow & it’s accessories so the lighter / smaller the case the better but not sure which case would be a good fit. From what I found, it’s probably either pelican or SKB but dunno what model/ size to get, and genuinely what to look for other than the fact that it fits the bow.
Also budget is under 500 USD