Probably too expensive, but imagine never having to home, realtime resonances and accuracy feedback, and never losing steps.

So I tried looking up some information regarding how to make PETG more transparent, when printing. I couldn’t find a ton of info. I tried reducing my speed, turning off fans and I got a giant mess. This is the jewel I designed and printed at full speed. I used this as a fit test. I’m happy with the diffused light. But want tips on making clearer crystals and parts out of this transparent PETG?

I decided to do a spooky Halloween print that beats the crappy store bought ones. So I decided to make a 16inch Australian Huntsman spider.

When it was black and in two halves it wasn’t scary at all.

One 30 min paint job later and it’s horrifying.

I will put it on the side wall of our front door so you don’t see it until you turn around to leave. Should get some nice ring camera footage.

Haven’t posted in a while because I haven’t really had anything new. Just crunched finishing Prime right before New York comic con. I’ve had the suit printed and halfway test fitted for over a year. But about three weeks before NYCC I decided to rush and finish it.

Luckily, 95% of it was printed in ASA so between being able to vapor smooth half of the parts and the other half being unbelievably easy to sand, I was able to cross through it super fast. Not a single filament I have ever tested Sands as easily and smooth as ASA. Literally one pass of 220 gritt and it’s ready for prime (ha)

The first time I wore, the entire suit was at New York comicon on Saturday. And luckily, seven years of trial and error in hindsight, and seeing how all of my friends and other builders make suits and the failure points of them help me avoid account for any thing that could go wrong.

The entire cod piece and neck is TPU and eventually the abs section will be as well.

Files by Walsh3d

Printed mostly on Bambu lab machines.

Printed mostly in Polymaker filament.

I designed this Apollo themed floating cupholder. I wanted to try and find a way to add a "scorched" look to the outside, but nothing really seemed like a great option, bic lighter did a little something but just wiped right away, so I went ahead and started painting with acrylic instead. Still have some fun details to add but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, not having a ton of experience in hand painting models! What do you guys think? I think this might force me to buy and learn how to use an airbrush if anybody has suggestions/tips?

Ein Einkaufswagenchip mit Klammer für Einkaufszettel. Verwendbar in Einkaufswagen mit Schlitz (Euro).

https://makerworld.com/models/3448039?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share a little project I’ve been putting my heart into recently.

Turning a house or car key seems like such a tiny everyday thing, but if you deal with arthritis, hand pain, or weak grip, it can honestly ruin your day.

I wanted to build something super simple that anyone can just pick up and use right away, with zero setup. No tiny screws to tighten, no measuring keys beforehand, and no complicated adjustments.

The idea behind it: Inside the knob, I placed a bed of soft, flexible TPU pins. When you push it against a key, the pins simply bend and hug whatever shape the key has, gripping it tight.

The outside is nice and rounded, shaped so you can just press it with the palm of your hand and turn without having to pinch or hurt your fingers. You can just keep it by the front door or in a pocket and use it on pretty much any key.

For printing:

• The outer handle prints in standard PLA or PETG.
• The inner cushion is flexible TPU (I used 95A).
• The two parts just press together cleanly, no glue or extra hardware needed.

The project is 100% free and open for everyone on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3440853-omnigrip-universal-flexi-key-turner-fullturn#profileId-3923794

If you know someone who might find this useful, or if you end up printing one, I’d genuinely love to know how it feels in hand and how it works for you!

Updates every 30 minutes based on the average price in your area. Less than $10 in parts. I will share the full project when I'm done. Just working out a few bugs and modifying the case a little bit to make it easier to print and assemble.

Okay, guys, remember that post I made a while back about my dumb joke project—the cat butt fridge magnet with glow-in-the-dark balls? I thought it was just a one-time chuckle for the internet.

Boy, was I wrong. That blew up, and my little joke turned into an absolute monster.

Fast forward to today, and I am officially drowning in orders. I now have to print over 200 of these damn magnets! Local vet clinics reached out (yes, actual veterinarians want these on their breakroom fridges), crazy cat people came out of the woodwork, and my workshop has basically turned into an assembly line for feline rear ends. 😆 Damn I had to buy another printer to follow the demands 🚀

And just when I thought it couldn't get any more ridiculous... the dog owners arrived.

Yep, now I’m getting flooded with requests for dog butts too. And to top it all off? Someone actually commissioned custom drawer knobs shaped like animal butts—complete with the glow-in-the-dark feature, naturally. 😆 and this is not going to end there... people asked me about many different butts with glowing ding-dongs. What the hell is going on haha

If you told me last month that I'd be making a living wage off mass-producing glowing pet asses, I would’ve laughed you out of the room. Reddit, what have you done to my life?

Send filament. Send help... 😵

My buddy buys and sells used industrial machines and it came in a auction lot. It's outside of his expertise so hes currently storing it in my shop and wants me to figure out if it works. Is it worth anything? Or just an old relic.

Edit: it's available in los Angeles area.

I used Claude to design for me a game controller enclosure for a circuit that I built. I printed it from PETG and then painted it using graphite paint and then buffed it to get that metallic sheen.
Not much else to say. Please ask questions.

Can see each individual line it laid down. Thought it was pretty cool. The second picture is the bottom side. it was printed on textured pei. I included a regular picture of it for reference.

I made Bob entirely in zbrush and exported all the parts individually for easy AMS coloring in your slicer. Grab him here if interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3448273-the-stitchling-voodoo-dolls-bob-the-blobfish#profileId-3933333

I’m printing terrain for miniature war games. Using a Bambu A1 with Bambu PLA. I’ve been using a dehydrator to get down to 30 or below humidity.

Are there other settings I can optimize to stop the stringing under every little nook and crack? (see photos).

I’m new to this and having a blast. Thanks for any advice!

Edit: Model is by Diceverse on MMF - it’s one of their Ruined City House Sets.

Here are my Bambu Studio Settings:

Bambu Studio settings — Bambu Lab A1

PRINTER
- Printer: Bambu Lab A1 / Nozzle: 0.4mm, Flow: Standard
- Build plate: Textured PEI

PROJECT FILAMENTS
- 1: Bambu PLA Basic | 2: Generic PLA | 3: ABS | 4: ASA

PROFILE: 0.16mm Optimal @BBL A1 (modified)

QUALITY
- Layer height: 0.16mm / Initial layer: 0.2mm
- Seam position: Aligned
- Only one wall on top surfaces: Top surfaces
- Only one wall on first layer: off

STRENGTH
- Wall loops: 2 (Alternate extra wall: off)
- Top: Monotonic pattern, 6 layers, 1mm thick
- Bottom: Monotonic pattern, 4 layers, 0mm thick
- Internal solid infill: Rectilinear
- Sparse infill: 15%, Grid pattern

SPEED
- Slow down for overhangs: ON
60mm/s @ 10% | 30 @ 25% | 10 @ 50% | 10 @ 75% | 10 @ 100%
- Slow down by height: off
- Bridge: 50mm/s / Gap infill: 300mm/s
- Outer wall: 200mm/s / Inner wall: 300mm/s
- Sparse infill: 330mm/s / Internal solid infill: 300mm/s
- Travel: 700mm/s

SUPPORT (I didn’t use supports on the bricks, because it’s covered in bricks)
- Enabled / Type: tree (manual) / Threshold angle: 25°
- On build plate only: off
- Support speed: 150mm/s / Interface: 80mm/s

COOLING (Bambu PLA Basic @BBL A1)
- Part fan: 60% min (80s layers) -> 80% max (6s layers)
- Keep fan always on: on
- Slow down for better layer cooling: on
- Force cooling for overhangs and bridges: ON
- Aux fan: ramps to 70%

RETRACTION (filament overrides)
- Length / Z-hop: N/A (printer-managed)
- Long retraction on cut (experimental): on, 18mm

OTHERS
- Brim: Auto, 5mm / Fuzzy skin: off
- Purge into support: on (single filament, no purging occurring)

Hi All - Kris from KB3D Here:

Sorry for the confusion! It's been an eventful few days.

Early this week we became aware that our dedicated server was the victim of a DDoS attack from a bad actor.

In an abundance of caution we chose to close our online store and proceed with widely accepted best-practices for mitigating these kinds of attacks. One of those steps is the "Suspended Account" message many visitors on Tuesday morning noticed.

Since then our amazing security team has been investigating/reviewing the incident as well as moving forward our normal security review to be sure we maintain proper stewardship of our customer's data. I'm beyond grateful for their all-hands efforts over the last few days.

That review is ongoing, and likely will be for a few days or more - but it's for these exact reasons that we do not keep any sensitive customer data on our own server. Our payments are processed through Stripe and PayPal servers only.

As a US/Ohio business there are strict laws in place that require us to notify customers in the event of a data breach, and we'll be abiding by those directives if at any point our review determines the attack resulted in a data leak.

https://codes.ohio.gov/ohio-revised-code/section-1349.19

We'll be following up with a newsletter regardless with more detail, as we've always been built on transparency - something I hope those of you who have shopped with us in the past can attest to!

My biggest thanks go out to our Amazing customers who reached out by Discord, phone, email ETC to make sure we were aware and healthy!

I realize that unscheduled downtime and strange landing page messages are not ideal, but I hope our response gives everyone confidence in our willingness to prioritize our name over daily revenue.

If you have any questions that don't belong in a reply here you can reach me directly at:

[kris@kb-3d.com](mailto:kris@kb-3d.com)
(815)860-5422

After a fairly hectic week of trying to nail down a decent pen mounting solution that makes setting all their z offsets the same, and having all pen tips well aligned. And then fighting tooth and nail with orca slicer to make it do my bidding for pen plots, the first torture test came out looking pretty darn decent! The pen holder is also lightly spring loaded so i shouldn't obliterate nibs *too* quickly.

This setup allows me to easily choose what pen width I want, to quickly and accurately do infills in all sorts of patterns, to have stroke lines in different pens, to quickly scale work to what paper i'm using and lots more.

Here i've used stabilos (black & brown) and some alcohol markers (the other 3 colours)