I have a bunch of used rolls that I'm not going to use. Free to pickup. Located in Oklahoma City, OK.

Update: Claimed

I decided to do a spooky Halloween print that beats the crappy store bought ones. So I decided to make a 16inch Australian Huntsman spider.

When it was black and in two halves it wasn’t scary at all.

One 30 min paint job later and it’s horrifying.

I will put it on the side wall of our front door so you don’t see it until you turn around to leave. Should get some nice ring camera footage.

Ordered Polymaker Marble White PLA from Amazon. Cracked open the box and found an unsealed spool of ELEGOO Matte Navy Blue staring back at me.

Apparently, some cheap bastard figured out Amazon’s return policy is a self-service filament upgrade program.

Amazon has billions invested in robotics, AI, and logistics, but apparently nobody can tell the difference between white and fucking blue. 💀

I’ve been working on a series of food themed fidgets to try to sell in local coffee shops and bakeries. These are my Halloween versions of the corkscrew cupcake foodle! Haven’t really shared my work online yet, curious what people think.

Hey 3D printing fans!

For the last two months I have put tremendous effort in building a unique 3D model generator. It turns any QR code into a 3D mini city to be 3D printed!

I have made it free, save (runs locally on your device) and hope I can inspire others to print some.

www.urban-qr.com

Please share your creations and feedback, looking to improve where possible!

Feel free to repost on other sub-reddits, and tag me! 🤓

When printing multicolor with a single nozzle, traditional methods require at least one purge for every layer that uses more than one filament. Multiply that by the number of colors and layers in your print, and you'll quickly fill up your poop bin.

I had a thought: most print heads have some clearance between the nozzle and the build plate. Why not use that space to print several layers of one color at a time, then backfill the gaps with another color?

Turns out, someone actually wrote a research paper on this exact concept a few years ago, but as far as I could tell, it never made it into a practical tool.

Well, I couldn't leave it at that. After burning some tokens, I put together a post-processing tool that attempts to do exactly this. I'm calling it ColorStack.

The workflow is simple:

1. Slice your model as usual.
2. Open the sliced file in ColorStack.
3. Process and export it.
4. Send the modified file to your printer.

Full instructions are available on GitHub.

In an ideal, best-case test print, I was able to reduce filament purges from 49 to just 9. Since filament changes on a single-nozzle printer can be pretty slow, that also cut the print time for my test model from 1 hour 10 minutes to just 30 minutes.

Obviously, this isn't going to work equally well for every model, but I've found that most multicolor models offer at least some marginal benefit.

Ideally, this would be a built-in slicer feature, but I'm not really equipped to implement that myself. So I'm releasing ColorStack for anyone to freely use, copy, modify, and hopefully improve.

I'm sharing it here because I don't want the idea to sit forgotten in my GitHub repo and disappear into the void.

Probably too expensive, but imagine never having to home, realtime resonances and accuracy feedback, and never losing steps.

I usually make my coasters out of oak, but last night I came up with this optical design idea, so printed it (my neighbors wouldn't have liked it if I turned on the CNC in the middle of the night 😂 )

Hi! I made a portal gun, it’s still missing cables but I hope you like it!

The model was created by Evarate and is available on thingiverse. I used the V2 version but replaced the arduino with esp32 and added sound effects.

This is my miniature coffee shop container to add a little spice to your decor! :)

You can store almost anything in it, coffee beans, coffee capsules, or anything else that fits.

It comes with a few different printing options and lettering choices.

It’s designed with both multicolor and single-color printers in mind.

I’ve made it with a removable storage insert for easy cleaning and replacement.

BE AWARE!
If you’re using it for unpackaged food, such as loose coffee beans, extra precautions are needed.
Food-safe filament alone doesn’t guarantee a food-safe print. The printing process must also be suitable for food contact.
The storage insert should be cleaned regularly and replaced periodically, as residue and bacteria can build up over time.
A certified food-safe liner is the safer option for direct food contact.

Sealed or packaged food, such as coffee capsules, can be stored without the storage insert using normal filament, as long as the food remains protected by its packaging.

Now, this is a promotion for my model, and I do hope I’ve managed to get some of you interested! You can find my print on Printables.

My profile/coffee shop print:
https://www.printables.com/model/1880390-the-coffee-shop-miniture-storage-container

So I tried looking up some information regarding how to make PETG more transparent, when printing. I couldn’t find a ton of info. I tried reducing my speed, turning off fans and I got a giant mess. This is the jewel I designed and printed at full speed. I used this as a fit test. I’m happy with the diffused light. But want tips on making clearer crystals and parts out of this transparent PETG?

Haven’t posted in a while because I haven’t really had anything new. Just crunched finishing Prime right before New York comic con. I’ve had the suit printed and halfway test fitted for over a year. But about three weeks before NYCC I decided to rush and finish it.

Luckily, 95% of it was printed in ASA so between being able to vapor smooth half of the parts and the other half being unbelievably easy to sand, I was able to cross through it super fast. Not a single filament I have ever tested Sands as easily and smooth as ASA. Literally one pass of 220 gritt and it’s ready for prime (ha)

The first time I wore, the entire suit was at New York comicon on Saturday. And luckily, seven years of trial and error in hindsight, and seeing how all of my friends and other builders make suits and the failure points of them help me avoid account for any thing that could go wrong.

The entire cod piece and neck is TPU and eventually the abs section will be as well.

Files by Walsh3d

Printed mostly on Bambu lab machines.

Printed mostly in Polymaker filament.

Ein Einkaufswagenchip mit Klammer für Einkaufszettel. Verwendbar in Einkaufswagen mit Schlitz (Euro).

https://makerworld.com/models/3448039?appSharePlatform=copy

I designed and 3D printed these anatomical models myself using Blender. I have small 3D printing studio

These were made for clients who needed physical models for teaching and demonstration. I worked on the models from the 3D design stage through printing and finishing.

I've been experimenting with different anatomical models, including:

• Heart

• Brain

• Kidney cross-sections

• Pelvis

• Lumbar spine (LST) models

• Blood vessel / clot models

• Patient-specific anatomical models from DICOM data

• Bird and animal anatomy

• Microscopic / educational models

The models shown here are around 175 mm and 245 mm, but I can produce them at different scales depending on the intended use.

I'm particularly interested in making models that are useful for medical education, anatomy teaching and demonstrations rather than just decorative prints.

I'm still a small home-based 3D printing business, so I'm trying to learn what medical students, educators and professionals actually find useful.

If there's an anatomical model you've wanted to have as a physical 3D print but couldn't find, I'd genuinely be interested to hear what it is.

I also take custom model requests, along with bulk orders.

Website: pegasusprintsbharat.com

Get a 10% off using this code at checkout

XW9E06VFJN6D

Let me know your thoughts!

I designed this Apollo themed floating cupholder. I wanted to try and find a way to add a "scorched" look to the outside, but nothing really seemed like a great option, bic lighter did a little something but just wiped right away, so I went ahead and started painting with acrylic instead. Still have some fun details to add but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, not having a ton of experience in hand painting models! What do you guys think? I think this might force me to buy and learn how to use an airbrush if anybody has suggestions/tips?

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share a little project I’ve been putting my heart into recently.

Turning a house or car key seems like such a tiny everyday thing, but if you deal with arthritis, hand pain, or weak grip, it can honestly ruin your day.

I wanted to build something super simple that anyone can just pick up and use right away, with zero setup. No tiny screws to tighten, no measuring keys beforehand, and no complicated adjustments.

The idea behind it: Inside the knob, I placed a bed of soft, flexible TPU pins. When you push it against a key, the pins simply bend and hug whatever shape the key has, gripping it tight.

The outside is nice and rounded, shaped so you can just press it with the palm of your hand and turn without having to pinch or hurt your fingers. You can just keep it by the front door or in a pocket and use it on pretty much any key.

For printing:

• The outer handle prints in standard PLA or PETG.
• The inner cushion is flexible TPU (I used 95A).
• The two parts just press together cleanly, no glue or extra hardware needed.

The project is 100% free and open for everyone on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3440853-omnigrip-universal-flexi-key-turner-fullturn#profileId-3923794

If you know someone who might find this useful, or if you end up printing one, I’d genuinely love to know how it feels in hand and how it works for you!

Updates every 30 minutes based on the average price in your area. Less than $10 in parts. I will share the full project when I'm done. Just working out a few bugs and modifying the case a little bit to make it easier to print and assemble.