I'm trying to confirm some details if someone can help me out. I did a bunch of research, but don't have 100% clear answers.
I would like to do the original "forum spec" white bunny upgrade, a D21 aluminum flywheel + ACT NX6 HD/SS (Z32 NA). Trying to stick with ACT if possible and not have to use a puck disc. The White bunny kit doesn't seem to hold enough power for what I am looking to make (about 350-400), but I am trying to keep the car as streetable as possible.
Can anyone confirm what ARP hardware I need to order and that the Z32 NA clutch is the right one?
Picture of the car for engagement.
Links of parts in consideration:
ACT Clutch
D21 Flywheel

Hey guys was wondering does anyone in here have the Dmax chrome tail lights on a black s14 by chance? I've been thinking about grabbing them just can't seem to find any decent pictures. My pos for attention 🫡

Accusum is an oil accumulator that stores oil in the even of pressure loss it send oil to the engine until the oil pressure restored it's a poor man's dry sump

I’ve checked Vaccum leaks, new fpr, new maf is on the way, blow off valve is shut completely to eliminate issues there for now(supposedly enthalpy tuned for it, should I readjust it?) spark plugs been changed a lot 6 heat stock boost. I replaced my scg-1 with their updated version with a Bosch 4.9 o2 sensor. Both my boost solenoids leaked out of the housings so I routed to the wastegate for stock boost.
I’m sure I’ve done more I’m not thinking of but does anyone have any ideas

13.7-14 afr idle, give gas it hunts for 14.7ish and then falls after finding it.

Lean in boost 12.8, I’ve seen 13.8 but I believe the solenoid leaking cause the lean spike.

Compression is good 150-155 across all 4.

Vibration is ALOT I assumed it’s because the Megan racing mounts.

Fuel pump has good ground (possible failing check valve? I lose rail pressure faster than I think it should)

Thanks guys

Pretty much a bolt on just need to drill the mounting holes to fit 14mm bolt and have z32 conversation lines thats it

This may be a no brainer but figured I'd double check.

I'm redoing my fuel lines and noticed that a black wire that goes to a pin terminal is broken. Idk if it's been like that or broken when I was messing around in there. It doesn't look like it goes into anywhere inside the fuel tank, so is this like a chassis ground or something? And does it need to be repaired

Would prefer not to drill into the firewall if possible. Is there a free grommet in the S14 that folks use to run their power wires from the battery (stock location - or remote mount the opposite direction) to the cabin? Need to run a fuel pump wire and a small amp for my door speakers. Curious where everyone is pushing it through?

i don’t have one and i’d like to get one but i can’t find anywhere where they sell em! i’m only seeing sr20 fan shrouds being reproduced

✅

$12,500 CAD?!

Painted my sr20 valve cover. Thoughts?

Hello I have a 1993 hatch with a digital speedometer swapped in by the previous owner, all the gauges and lights work except for the speed which prior to about 2 weeks ago worked. When I turn on the car it turns on dimly then turns off a few seconds later, also happens when I unplug it and plug it back in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I also have the original cluster so if you all think it’s a waste of time please let me know

S13 SR in s14 with Tomei manifold and mx80 turbo. Had some issues pulling off the manifold and turbo. Took off the downpipe and lines. I'm almost certain this setup requires the top studs to be removed. That seems crazy. Does anyone have recommendations?

s13 first build

- I want to upgrade from 4 to 5 lug. im going to do z32 brakes, lines etc. I was looking at isr since the bearings already installed and I genuinely don’t where i could press in the new ones if I bought gktech.
drift hq has both the z32 swap & 4 to 5 lug but shipping is minimum $400 L-O-fuckin-L.
so I read more before i paid it and saw the ISR isn’t all that great in terms of the bearing quality.

couple questions:

what brand 4 to 5 lug did yall get?

if you ordered gk tech where/how did you get the bearings pressed in?

is there specific tool I can rent or place I can go?

if you ordered the 4 to 5 & z32 swap together what website did you use? ik vivid racing sells both with low shipping but i’ve heard bad things.

Selling my s14.5 1995 SR20det Black top

Clean title in my name

Head gasket blown, head is currently off don’t have the time to fix currently and can use the funds

Clean interior. Front bumper is broken, but I’ve ordered a new origin lab bumper and just have not a picked it up yet in Jersey

PRICE $10,000 bring your own wheels
$13,000 with work wheels

Not negotiable at all

Located in queens New York

Message me if interested

Hi everyone

I have a S14 kouki with no cat and Blitz Nur Spec exhaust.

It is hella loud.

I’ve read that not having a cat will make even a quiet aftermarket exhaust like HKS Sport raspy. I have read that the best option is the ultra quiet resonator. Does anyone have a similar set up? Is it worth buying the resonator or should I look for alternate options to make the car quieter? AI says that I should install it as further front as possible. Does anyone have an ultra quiet resonator on their S14? Where did you install it?

For reference here is a pic that closely resembles my setup.

Thanks in advance.

I’ll be 5x machining a couple of these up from billet for my s13 next week to replace the ghastly stock ones. Just wondered if anyone else would potentially be interested if I were to make some more and do an eBay listing? I’ll probably get them clear anodised

G'day. I'm Beau, a boilermaker and product designer in South Australia, and I'm the one designing this. It's based on the S15 RWD block and bolts in like the factory one. The stock oil pump, spin-on filter, dipstick, wet-sump pan and water pump all stay, and so does the OEM head bolt pattern, with steel thread inserts. It's machined from 6061-T6. The deck is welded closed, then the whole block goes back to T6 before the ductile iron sleeves go in. The land between the bores is dry. What let go first on your factory block, and what would you want fixed? Link's in the comments if anyone wants it.

Camber plates on my s13 are maxed out, what’s the best way to get just a fraction more camber so my wheels don’t scrub, doesn’t need much. I hear that upgrading to s14 LCA will make the wheel poke out more I don’t want that at all. Can I just get extended lower ball joints? Just need a tiny bit more

hey guys, would anyone know where i could get a set of these? or know someone that’s selling a pair? can’t seem to find them anywhere.
thanks👍🏻