I recently bought the low mileage S-tune suspension that u/Unvexii posted, as i wasnt confident in the usability of the first set i got.

The first one I got i believe was the original kit, the low mileage set is the revised kit, as identified by the part numbers.

The part number for the original rear springs are 55020-RSZ30, the revised rear springs pn is 55020-RSZ32.

The part number for the original front springs is 54010-RSZ30, the revised front springs pn is 54010-RSZ32.

Left side is the original, right side is the revised.

Aside from the visual differences, is there any mechanical differences?

If I were to refinish my wheels should I do silver or re do the gunmetal?

60 miles each way, through LA traffic. It works

Figured id throw this out there sense I really haven't to many people put these wheels on there z's

I drained old oil and it was like a quart only inside the engine. Engine knocking? I got this a month ago and it was fine but my dumbass didn't do oil changes all around.

Just installed the GKTech transmission mount inserts and the difference it made is above expectations.

Took me about 30 minutes total. Super simple process. I used some silicone grease on the polyurethane inserts to make sure they wouldn't make any noise or start squeaking later down the road.

0% increase in NVH. I literally do not notice a single difference in noise, vibration, or harshness inside the car compared to stock. For reference I have all stock drivetrain components; not even a diff brace so any increase in NVH should have been noticed.

The biggest difference I noticed was in my 1st and 2nd gear shifts. It’s actually crazy how much of a change it made. My 1-2 shifts have never been easier, crispier, and sharper.

Definitely worth doing if you want to clean up your shift feel without sacrificing any cabin comfort considering how inexpensive these are.

sounds amazing.

Im about to get new tires. Im wondering if I should just but this instead of getting the actual TPMS sensors. I keep seeing alot of poeple try and fix that light and it keep appearing.

INGS and Advan, perfect mix!

i just changed all the cam sensors and crank sensor to new ones and my car still shuts off on me while driving, every time i have to take the key out and reinsert it to get the car to turn back on. Anyone have an idea 😭

Little more progress on the build

I dont understand who at nissan thought it was a good idea to have basically all the load go through one small fluid filled bushing but they are absolute idiots

Obviously the easiest fix would be to just buy the bushing and brace from like z1 or something, but after shipping and tax it works out to like over 500 dollars (yes I know it's ridiculous for a $90 part) and I just dont feel like paying that for basically a small peice of plastic and a metal brace, especially on top of all the potentially thousands of dollars of other shit that I have to buy for this car, but I mean I kinda asked for that buying a 20 year old car so 🤷‍♂️.

Also I tried checking with nissan if they had the bushing, which for some reason, they dont and they want to sell me the whole subframe, which seems very wasteful, and even more expensive than $500 so its out of the question,

Ive also heard of other methods like the drill and fill with window sealant, but that just sounds like it will break in 2 weeks, and I've also heard of people machining aluminium bushings and just making the steel brace, but i'm also worried about that causing the stud to snap off or vibrating the subframe until it either cracks or all the screws come off.

But then I had the idea of just making the bushing myself? Like just using a 2 part polyurethane mix and covering both sides with something, still with the diff stud inside the hole held up with something so it's in the same spot, and then making two holes on the top and injecting the mix in and just letting it sit like that for like 3 days and then bada bing bada boom there's a bushing right there.

And then for the brace I'd just use some cardboard aided design (cad lol) and then trace something out and have it cut and welded out of steel.

Has anyone done something like this before? If so I'd appreciate any advice, and also if you think my method won't work, please let me know.

Also, I know there are probably going to be people that say just buy the part, 500 dollars might not be that much if you're from the US, but trust me, its a shitload if you're from a smaller country

Alright I’m currently looking to buy a DE Z, it’s an 04 and has 178k miles. Everything is stock and what’s really great about it is that it’s adult owned and maintained really well. Engine bay looks extremely good and so on… it’s going for 4.7k and it’s at a dealership. I would show it but I don’t want someone to snag it 😑😑😑 anyways, is buying a high mileage Z okay? I’m currently 20 years old and I’m currently a junior in UNI. I can manage with money and so on…

So my coolant tube idk exploded or smth due to pressure I’m not really sure cause it does not look like it broke due to it but. If u guys can even see it on the pictures. Whats like a good radiator hose cause if im gonna replace it I wanna use good stuff. Do u guys have any recommendations what hose I could use/buy cause I have to fix it quick xD

Old lady crashed into my car and it’s now totaled, this car is a bad luck charm 🕊️ (don’t mind the ugly bumper)

As title says, after changing the battery after the car had sat for a month, I noticed a ticking noise whenever the engine was being revved, it seems to increase in speed as the RPM increases, apologies for the bad video. Does anyone have any advice :( I’m considering just getting rid of it and giving up on my 350Z dream lol

Hi everyone!

I have seen a few people have similar issues but not quite the same! Looking for some advice on what I should check first.

I just recently got my first 350z, it has been having an issue where the slip light comes around corners and I lose power, I looked into it and spoke to some mechanic friends and narrowed it down to a traction controll issue. My temporary solution has been turning traction control off (which has fixed the issue for now while waiting to get a chance to have a proper look at it)

Yesterday, when I pulled up at home I noticed the TCS light and Slip light were on and staying on. Pressing the TCS button did nothing. Plus now the Check engine light is on with it 🤦‍♀️

Today when I have driven it, the TCS and slip lights are off but the check engine light is still on. All of the research I have done doesn't quite seem to match up with my problems. The car is driving completely fine otherwise!

Any advice or possible solutions are welcome, just trying to get an idea of where I should start.

Thank you in advance!