I have a final inspection in an hour before I cut a check.

Questions:
-did they stretch ridge cap shingles too far? I see exposed adhesive strips
-are the shingles stretched too far to get more coverage? Noticed discoloration.

These are lifetime certainteed.

Also I opted an extra $450 for drip edge (since they said it wasn’t code) and they didn’t install it at the bottom eaves of roofs. I’m sure they are going to tell. bc of the flip gutters, but I’m going to ask for a discount. I WAS WRONG AND STAND CORRECTED. THANK YOU

They can’t afford a new roof right now and I am the best help they have available. I’ve never worked on a roof but I can hopefully manage this. Can someone please tell me what I need to do to get them through the winter? We’re in southeast Alaska. The gap in the second picture extends about half the length of the roof.

[Louisville, KY] I recently noticed a small leak thanks to some ceiling water damage (pic 1). I found the spot where water is coming into the attic (pic 2), which unfortunately isn't near any roof penetrations or obvious damage to the roof. The drip point is about 4' from a vertical wall that sits underneath a soffit for a higher roof area. That higher roof drains into a gutter that empties directly onto the lower roof (pic 3 & 4). I also could not find any obviously very rusty nails in that area of the attic to indicate a pop.

So, I had a roofer come out to take a look and give me an estimate for repair. This was through a home warranty, so I'm of course a little dubious of the roofing company despite positive Google reviews (the warranty came with the house and they've actually covered a few other issues to date, so I thought it worth a shot). The guy left right after looking at the roof and taking some pictures that don't seem to identify anything but one rusty nail (pic 5-8). A couple days later the company quoted $1,800 to do the following work:

• Remove and replace the shingles under the soffit, apply ice and water shield and ensure the fascia metal is sealed where it makes contact with the roof
• Install step flashing on where the repair has been made
• Clean up and haul away any related debris

This seemed to be a lot of work and, since it exceeds the limit of the warranty, I wanted to make sure this was a reasonable SOW at a reasonable cost. I asked to the company to walk me through the reasoning behind it. The guy (different than who inspected) explained that there isn't step flashing under the soffit, which is letting the water in and causing damage. However, their pictures do not seem to back this up, and I cannot find any other points where water is entering the attic between the vertical wall and the noted leak. Looking at the bottom of the roof in that area, it also appears that there is indeed some flashing woven in with the shingles, though I cannot determine how far up it is installed without removing siding (pic 9 & 10).

So, I am trying to work out whether it makes sense to move forward with this repair by this company, or if it would be better to have the warranty company provide their cash option (if possible) and have another company conduct the repair. My questions are:

1. Given the location of the leak and the pictures provided, does the diagnosis of the leak make sense?
2. If it does, is $1,800 a reasonable cost for that work?
3. If it would be better to have someone else make the repair, are any roofers likely to take on such a small job?

Thanks for any insights!

Just got a new roof installed, and noticed that this one section with a flat roof has the corner lifted.

The contractor said it looks like that since the gutter is lower at that point for drainage, but I checked with a level and it is definitely much higher. If I step on that spot, it doesn't move.

Towards the house it is level. I am about to test by hosing some water to see where it goes, but is this a bad install?

This is the house I live in on my family farm and I’m trying to add gutter hangers because I’m tired of the gutters sagging when we get our 10” of rain a year. Here’s a picture of the problem, they have hangers every 6-8’ and I was thinking of putting one every 2x4 or at least every other. The 5” hangers that are in stock at stores near me are way too long. Do they make 3”-4”? I can’t find them anywhere, there’s no fascia board sadly just the end of the 2x4s for the roof to screw into. Can someone help me get the right hangers? I attached the style that I’d like to get but they’re too long

We received a cancellation notice for our homeowners policy due to our roof condition (cracking shingles, moss growth, staining, etc...). We knew we would have to replace the roof after a few years, but curious if this is anyone has had any experience?

Wondering if it's normal to consider this a finished roofing job?

Our roofing job took a few months longer than the timeline we were given, so we were away for work and had our house temporarily rented out when they were finishing up the job. Contractor sent us pics of the finished roof and we sent him the full invoice payment. We moved back in recently and only then discovered they had pulled off the siding & membrane under 4 peaks of the house, which they didn't mention to us at all and wasn't visible in any of the pictures he had sent us.

After reading more about it, I know that removing siding can be normal for them to get the new roof on, but I was still surprised that they had left such a big gap between the edge of the roof and the side of the house with no flashing or membrane. Even though it's under the overhang of the roof, we live in a mountain town that gets a ton of snow, so it feels very possible that the snow could push under the overhang.

Would this be considered a finished job to most roofers? I'm in the process of replacing my siding so I plan to fix it, but wondering if I'm justified in feeling annoyed at how they left it without saying anything to me about it

My home has these gutters and they work fantastically well. They catch all the rain but barely any debris. I’ve never had to clean them in five years. What is this style called, is it still available, and why the heck isn’t it more popular? Home was built in 1960.

Water found at bottom front of fireplace insert. Any ideas on steps to find/ fix it would be appreciated! I fear this water damage has been happening for a while now due to the rust- like color.
Noticed some very loud water drips last night from a huge rain storm, next day notice grout is damp and used a paper towel to find some water.

My roof was actually just replaced 3 days ago- great company/ project manager. Had it replaced due to age (30yrs old) lived here for 6yrs . I have noticed the dripping sound before but very mild and only could ever hear it when it was pouring. Well we had a major downpour last night and the dripping sounded 10x worse and intense like it was actually dripping inside somewhere.

I let my roof guy know, and he checked out around the chimney and wasn’t sure where it could be getting in at, as he said everything looked sealed and good, but suggested I try reapplying sealant to the chimney cap, and flue flashing.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice! This is my first time dealing with this stuff.

Had some water leak onto the ceiling during the nor’easter. Roofer went up there and found this directly above leak. What do you think might have caused the circled damage? I have a feeling insurance might bust my chops.

Can you tell if this roof is double or single layer just by looking at it? We got two quotes for replacement, one was very high and he said it’s a single layer roof. One came in about half price, and then came back and gave me a quote much higher saying oh I walked the roof and realized it was a double layer.

So my mother has a leak in her roof (flatish) and doesnt have the money to pay for replacing/repair so thought I'd try roof help out. Here are pictures of the roof and a spot that may be where water is coming in. Am I able to use black roofing cement with a mesh to help seal that or does the roof not seem to be in the best condition overall? Any thoughts or advice would be helpful.

She had the rest of the roof with shingles replaced last year but this part wasn't touched. This section of the house was an extension added on over 30 years ago. No idea when the roof was last touched here.

Hello everyone. Reviewing a recent patio cover install and my gut is telling me this sort of excessive buckling/waviness isn’t acceptable for this transition flashing from my roof to patio cover? What is the standard for this? Thank you!

Had an inspection done on a home I'm currently in escrow for. Is this fine or should this area of the roof have tiles?

I noticed my drip edge is starting to pop out a bit in different spots.. Am I still good?

I have a zone on my roof that is failing which needs to be repaired. Specifically, this is the vertical surfaces of a dormer that extends out from/ above my roof line. There is some flashing and a few additional features where the dormer and roof line meet that also is failing and needs to be replaced.

I am working with the reputable roofing company, and in exploring different options, we discussed repairing not only the dormer and also replacing the roofing on the northern face of my roof (side of the roof on which the dormer is located).

The entire roof probably needs to be replaced within the next 5 to 7 years, but appears to be reasonably solid currently according to the roofing contractor.

My question is: is it ill advised for me to replace one side of the roof this year and perhaps move forward with the other sides in the next 1 to 2 years?

I’m certain this is not typically the way one tackles a roofing job. That said, I want to at least consider this option given the cost of replacing my entire roof and the fact that doing the dormer and north face now while doing the remaining portions of the roof in a year or so would enable me to better budget for what is going to be a very large expense.

(BTW… the option of completing the entire surrounding north side of the roof while repairing and replacing the areas directly related to the dormer was offered as an option from the perspective that since the roof needs to be replaced soon and roofing materials surrounding the dormer would have to now be pulled to shore up the dormer, that it would be most economical and most efficient use if labor to just replace this entire face of the roof now)

Sorry to be so lengthy in my description. Hoping everything here makes sense and I appreciate in advance folks feedback.

Engineer with LA County denied my roof permit, saying my plans don't constitute a Class A fire rated assembly, but I don't think this guy knows what he's doing....

I've got an uninsulated open rafter ceiling, so the plan was to put two layers of rigid mineral wool above the OSB deck covered in Sharkskin Ultra SA, use metal hat purlins anchored through the insulation into the rafters, and then attach 24 gauge 7.2 (western rib) metal panels on the purlins. Even specified the ember proofing mesh that will seal the panels. Everything I'm adding above the paper is non combustible. Not just fire resistant, but fully fire proof, and rated as such. The Rockwool Comfortboard won't even melt under 2000°F.

He comes back 6 weeks later, after a couple back and forths asking for specs on the materials I'm going to use, and says I can't add insulation, and I should just put the metal straight down on the paper, over the OSB. How the hell is putting the metal straight down onto the paper and wood, more fire resistant than two layers of completely non combustible mineral wool seams sealed with fireproof tape?

Should I just resubmit and hopefully I'll get a different guy?

i just got hired on at tecta america for commercial services and i need new boots. i have 6 days to find something.

im looking for a chelsea boot style that's flexible like a deck boot, which is what im used to wearing. pull on/ankle height. but they need steel or composite toes. they don't need to be magnetic. obviously, flat- no heels!

any suggestions?

Paid a guy for a new flat roof, as there was a leak in a room beneath. They quoted £1600 to include a new PVC membrane and new 18mm OSB boards. Did it in a day, and leak was worse than before. They have been very responsive and been out several times already to sort. First, by installing a new 'scupper' (the sticky out pipe bit), and then by doing something where the parapet wall meets the tiled roof.

Its still leaking.

The roof has been in place for 10 months, and it hasnt leaked i that time- but then, it has been really dry all summer.

I have told him I want my money back and he maintains there is no problem with the roof he worked on, rather it is from an adjoining tiled roof. I've said I am getting another opinion

Do I just accept that he's a cowboy and move on?

And if I spend lots of money on getting a proper EPDM roof - c £4k, whose to say that will fix it? I understand flat roofs are a bit hit and miss in terms of id'ing leaks

Just had our flat roof redone. When they came out to inspect the original they commented on the puddling and incorrect sloping of one section of the roof. Well, now the project is done and there is still puddling and incorrect sloping of the same section they said they would fix. There is also a circled section where the roof appears to be lifting.
Overall, unhappy with the project: gutter busted during the process and still leaking, they sat on and compressed a vent stack for the HVAC, left a big mess, busted some areas of stucco. I can ignore all of that, but to not correct the very thing they stated needs to be fixed….
I pointed it out to them and haven’t received a response. How big of a deal should I be making about this?

Any advice here please. So my dad has a flat roof. 8m x 5m it was an asphalt roof but a decade ago (maybe longer) he put down either bitumen primer/paint and then torched down felt. 3x underlay and 1x top (charcoal).

My opinion is he has a slow leak, maybe moisture trapped? But he's adamant its and old stain/crack that was treated with emulsion and not proper oil based and has just come back.

Id get up to inspect it but the ceiling is over 15ft high(converted warehouse)

I can get access to a mobile platform next month for a proper inspection. But not sure what to do?

Thanks in advance