I have a final inspection in an hour before I cut a check.

Questions:
-did they stretch ridge cap shingles too far? I see exposed adhesive strips
-are the shingles stretched too far to get more coverage? Noticed discoloration.

These are lifetime certainteed.

Also I opted an extra $450 for drip edge (since they said it wasn’t code) and they didn’t install it at the bottom eaves of roofs. I’m sure they are going to tell. bc of the flip gutters, but I’m going to ask for a discount. I WAS WRONG AND STAND CORRECTED. THANK YOU

They can’t afford a new roof right now and I am the best help they have available. I’ve never worked on a roof but I can hopefully manage this. Can someone please tell me what I need to do to get them through the winter? We’re in southeast Alaska. The gap in the second picture extends about half the length of the roof.

Doing metal roofing on my house, I’ve done a few in the past but never ran into this type of situation. The eve from the gable comes straight into the covered porch roof and doesn’t just dump off the roof. I’m just wondering how to transition the valley onto the regular roofing panels?

Wondering if it's normal to consider this a finished roofing job?

Our roofing job took a few months longer than the timeline we were given, so we were away for work and had our house temporarily rented out when they were finishing up the job. Contractor sent us pics of the finished roof and we sent him the full invoice payment. We moved back in recently and only then discovered they had pulled off the siding & membrane under 4 peaks of the house, which they didn't mention to us at all and wasn't visible in any of the pictures he had sent us.

After reading more about it, I know that removing siding can be normal for them to get the new roof on, but I was still surprised that they had left such a big gap between the edge of the roof and the side of the house with no flashing or membrane. Even though it's under the overhang of the roof, we live in a mountain town that gets a ton of snow, so it feels very possible that the snow could push under the overhang.

Would this be considered a finished job to most roofers? I'm in the process of replacing my siding so I plan to fix it, but wondering if I'm justified in feeling annoyed at how they left it without saying anything to me about it

How did my roofers do?

The previous company I hired improperly installed shingles on a 2/12 roof in Michigan with incorrect underlayment.

The new company just finished my flat roof today.

There are a few bubbles, and I know they tried to get everything out.

We received a cancellation notice for our homeowners policy due to our roof condition (cracking shingles, moss growth, staining, etc...). We knew we would have to replace the roof after a few years, but curious if this is anyone has had any experience?

Recently had new roof installed. On the side of the dormer they ran the flashing between two vertical boards and now the board on the side is bowing out. Said this was how had to do it because of code requiring pass through flashing and says it is good. The other side they cut a slot in the front vertical board and ran it through there (the other side had the side board behind the front board instead of next to it) Would like others to weigh in on if this is acceptable.

Just got a new roof installed, and noticed that this one section with a flat roof has the corner lifted.

The contractor said it looks like that since the gutter is lower at that point for drainage, but I checked with a level and it is definitely much higher. If I step on that spot, it doesn't move.

Towards the house it is level. I am about to test by hosing some water to see where it goes, but is this a bad install?

So my mother has a leak in her roof (flatish) and doesnt have the money to pay for replacing/repair so thought I'd try roof help out. Here are pictures of the roof and a spot that may be where water is coming in. Am I able to use black roofing cement with a mesh to help seal that or does the roof not seem to be in the best condition overall? Any thoughts or advice would be helpful.

She had the rest of the roof with shingles replaced last year but this part wasn't touched. This section of the house was an extension added on over 30 years ago. No idea when the roof was last touched here.

My home has these gutters and they work fantastically well. They catch all the rain but barely any debris. I’ve never had to clean them in five years. What is this style called, is it still available, and why the heck isn’t it more popular? Home was built in 1960.

Had some water leak onto the ceiling during the nor’easter. Roofer went up there and found this directly above leak. What do you think might have caused the circled damage? I have a feeling insurance might bust my chops.

Gutter cleaning season. Notice a lot of these are really sagging and quite a few are missing. Where to buy?

Should I take them off bend them back re- install or replace them? I'm also going to vulkem all the corners and down spouts.

Water found at bottom front of fireplace insert. Any ideas on steps to find/ fix it would be appreciated! I fear this water damage has been happening for a while now due to the rust- like color.
Noticed some very loud water drips last night from a huge rain storm, next day notice grout is damp and used a paper towel to find some water.

My roof was actually just replaced 3 days ago- great company/ project manager. Had it replaced due to age (30yrs old) lived here for 6yrs . I have noticed the dripping sound before but very mild and only could ever hear it when it was pouring. Well we had a major downpour last night and the dripping sounded 10x worse and intense like it was actually dripping inside somewhere.

I let my roof guy know, and he checked out around the chimney and wasn’t sure where it could be getting in at, as he said everything looked sealed and good, but suggested I try reapplying sealant to the chimney cap, and flue flashing.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice! This is my first time dealing with this stuff.

This is the house I live in on my family farm and I’m trying to add gutter hangers because I’m tired of the gutters sagging when we get our 10” of rain a year. Here’s a picture of the problem, they have hangers every 6-8’ and I was thinking of putting one every 2x4 or at least every other. The 5” hangers that are in stock at stores near me are way too long. Do they make 3”-4”? I can’t find them anywhere, there’s no fascia board sadly just the end of the 2x4s for the roof to screw into. Can someone help me get the right hangers? I attached the style that I’d like to get but they’re too long

Edit: from what I can tell the little lip on the gutter should be sitting on the roof decking and it’s pulled out from under the shingles due to the sagging. There’s about 300’ of gutter like this with another 100’ that a worker “fixed” by putting self tappers through the back of the gutter into the 2x4s sticking out of the roof. Ideally I don’t want to do the whole gutter system like that and was just hoping they made like a 4” version of that k style bracket since it’s kinda sketchy lifting the roof shingles to nail into the sheathing all the way around

[Louisville, KY] I recently noticed a small leak thanks to some ceiling water damage (pic 1). I found the spot where water is coming into the attic (pic 2), which unfortunately isn't near any roof penetrations or obvious damage to the roof. The drip point is about 4' from a vertical wall that sits underneath a soffit for a higher roof area. That higher roof drains into a gutter that empties directly onto the lower roof (pic 3 & 4). I also could not find any obviously very rusty nails in that area of the attic to indicate a pop.

So, I had a roofer come out to take a look and give me an estimate for repair. This was through a home warranty, so I'm of course a little dubious of the roofing company despite positive Google reviews (the warranty came with the house and they've actually covered a few other issues to date, so I thought it worth a shot). The guy left right after looking at the roof and taking some pictures that don't seem to identify anything but one rusty nail (pic 5-8). A couple days later the company quoted $1,800 to do the following work:

• Remove and replace the shingles under the soffit, apply ice and water shield and ensure the fascia metal is sealed where it makes contact with the roof
• Install step flashing on where the repair has been made
• Clean up and haul away any related debris

This seemed to be a lot of work and, since it exceeds the limit of the warranty, I wanted to make sure this was a reasonable SOW at a reasonable cost. I asked to the company to walk me through the reasoning behind it. The guy (different than who inspected) explained that there isn't step flashing under the soffit, which is letting the water in and causing damage. However, their pictures do not seem to back this up, and I cannot find any other points where water is entering the attic between the vertical wall and the noted leak. Looking at the bottom of the roof in that area, it also appears that there is indeed some flashing woven in with the shingles, though I cannot determine how far up it is installed without removing siding (pic 9 & 10).

So, I am trying to work out whether it makes sense to move forward with this repair by this company, or if it would be better to have the warranty company provide their cash option (if possible) and have another company conduct the repair. My questions are:

1. Given the location of the leak and the pictures provided, does the diagnosis of the leak make sense?
2. If it does, is $1,800 a reasonable cost for that work?
3. If it would be better to have someone else make the repair, are any roofers likely to take on such a small job?

Thanks for any insights!

Can you tell if this roof is double or single layer just by looking at it? We got two quotes for replacement, one was very high and he said it’s a single layer roof. One came in about half price, and then came back and gave me a quote much higher saying oh I walked the roof and realized it was a double layer.

Hello everyone. Reviewing a recent patio cover install and my gut is telling me this sort of excessive buckling/waviness isn’t acceptable for this transition flashing from my roof to patio cover? What is the standard for this? Thank you!

I noticed my drip edge is starting to pop out a bit in different spots.. Am I still good?

Paid a guy for a new flat roof, as there was a leak in a room beneath. They quoted £1600 to include a new PVC membrane and new 18mm OSB boards. Did it in a day, and leak was worse than before. They have been very responsive and been out several times already to sort. First, by installing a new 'scupper' (the sticky out pipe bit), and then by doing something where the parapet wall meets the tiled roof.

Its still leaking.

The roof has been in place for 10 months, and it hasnt leaked i that time- but then, it has been really dry all summer.

I have told him I want my money back and he maintains there is no problem with the roof he worked on, rather it is from an adjoining tiled roof. I've said I am getting another opinion

Do I just accept that he's a cowboy and move on?

And if I spend lots of money on getting a proper EPDM roof - c £4k, whose to say that will fix it? I understand flat roofs are a bit hit and miss in terms of id'ing leaks

I have two skylights in my living room that leak during bad storms, like when it basically rains sideways. Most of the time they're fine. I just want them ripped out and the holes sealed from the exterior, new shingles, etc... just make it a normal roof.

I'm going to start getting quotes next week, but I'm just curious about the ballpark price range I should be expecting.