CarScoops published an article today titled *“Mazda Kills Off The CX-70 And Will Sell Two- And Three-Row CX-90s Instead, ”*and then the link disappeared. I was able to recover the indexed article text, including the reported pricing and trim breakdown.

Big takeaway: Mazda is reportedly killing the CX-70 for 2027 and folding the two-row configuration into the CX-90 lineup. Instead of two separate nameplates, Mazda would sell the CX-90 in both two-row and three-row configurations on select trims.

Important caveat: these are details from the deleted CarScoops article, not independently confirmed 2027 Mazda specifications. I'm sure the announcement is imminent and CarScoops jumped the gun.

Reported 2027 CX-90 pricing

Prices below reportedly include the $1,645 destination fee.

3.3 Turbo Select — $41,345

• 280 hp / 332 lb-ft from the 3.3L turbo inline-six with 48V mild-hybrid system
• Leatherette seats
• 7-inch digital gauge cluster
• 10.25-inch infotainment display
• Apple CarPlay and Android Auto

3.3 Turbo Preferred — $45,495

• 21-inch silver wheels
• Heated and ventilated front seats
• Heated second-row seats
• 12.3-inch center display
• Updated grille and piano-black accents

3.3 Turbo Premium Sport — $48,525 two-row / $49,675 three-row

• Available with two or three rows
• Black exterior styling elements
• Premium equipment over Preferred

3.3 Turbo Premium Plus — $52,315

• Adaptive headlights
• Nappa leather in black or white
• Heated steering wheel
• 360-degree camera
• Seven- or eight-seat configuration

3.3 Turbo S Premium Sport — $55,185

• Upgraded 340-hp inline-six, producing 369 lb-ft on 91-octane fuel
• Black grille, badges and 21-inch black wheels
• Bose 12-speaker audio
• Panoramic moonroof
• Sport, Off-Road and Towing modes
• Reportedly available in two-row or three-row form

3.3 Turbo S Premium Plus — $59,616

• 340-hp turbo inline-six
• Seven-seat configuration
• Maple Wood interior trim
• Ventilated second-row seats
• Two-tone leather-wrapped steering wheel

Plug-in hybrid lineup

All three PHEVs reportedly use a naturally aspirated 2.5L four-cylinder, electric motor and 17.8-kWh battery, producing 323 hp and 369 lb-ft.

PHEV Preferred — $52,340

• Twin 12.3-inch displays
• Heated and ventilated front seats
• Heated steering wheel

PHEV Premium Sport — $57,145

• Blacked-out exterior trim
• Optional second-row captain's chairs
• Head-up display
• Bose audio
• Alexa Built-In
• SiriusXM

PHEV Premium Plus — $60,345

• 21-inch wheels
• Upgraded headlights and taillights
• Driver Personalization System
• Nappa leather
• Full suite of Mazda safety and driver-assistance features

Other reported 2027 changes

• Revised rear suspension crossmember across the lineup, reportedly aimed at improving passenger comfort.
• Four new exterior colors: Navy Blue Mica, Aero Grey Metallic, Melting Copper Metallic and Zircon Sand Metallic.
• The standard turbo continues with 280 hp, while the Turbo S gets 340 hp.
• The CX-90 lineup reportedly expands to nine trim levels, with the two-row configuration limited to select trims.

Source: CarScoops — original article URL (now deleted)

Sister was borrowing my 2013 Rx 350 and hit a deer totaling it. So I pulled the trigger on this. Only 14k miles.

Am loving it so far but a few questions.

The engine noise is definitely put through the speakers right? There's no way a 4cylinder turbo sounds like that inside.

And I can't get the car to notify me of text messages. Whether in park or driving. It's a 2025 Motorola ultra. Not using android auto.

Also kind of lame there's no wireless android auto.

Other than that I love it.

Mine's on the left.

I just received the diagnosis for my car. The coolant reservoir itself failed, but I did still have coolant in the radiator. I do have no oil. They found that the head gasket cover was leaking, possibly the second I drove it off the lot. They are going to run electrical tests to confirm the temperature gauge and sensors are working properly. Estimated at $506 for coolant issue (without tax) and $799 for the oil issue (without tax). Because of coolant still in the radiator, the engine did not take any damage. I’m expected to get the car back tomorrow. Just unfortunate after I’ve only made 2 car payments on this car for a whopping total of $595. Not getting a great return on this investment :/

It was my first time ever doing a paint job. I was aiming for gunmetal gray lol but curiosity got me (always). Mixed some gray, black and dashes of green. And got this.

I suck at taking pictures of cars im sorry. There are a bunch of stuff I need to do to restore paint and fix bumpers etc ... still working on it.

I didn’t plan on it, I really just wanted my oil change and to move on in life. But when he came and sat next to me in the waiting room just now all sad and dejected like he was about to tell me my dog died only to present a list of suggested services that included $110 for a cabin filter, $100 for an engine air filter, $85 to clean battery terminals and $1550 for brakes I couldn’t contain myself. He wasn’t amused, I really don’t care but I did have to share the absurdity of these prices they ask. I really wonder how many people say ok.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DemfPzeG6yY/?mdxt=Mmoyd3NocHN4aGVu

Hi all. I've had an early 2018 Mazda Cx5 that I bought a year old. It's a diesel 2.2 D SPORT NAV 2WD 5DR TD 150PS. Registered in Jan 18.

I've loved the car but I've read recently that there are flaws in some Mazda diesels forcarbon build ups within several areas of the engine with Mazda that can basically ruin them. Can knowledgeable people advise me if it's likely my car is in this range? Car now has 132k miles(212k KM) so will likely change soon if true. I understand the petrols are quality. Are the hybrids also really solid?

Thoughts? It's for a good price and I heard quite a lot of good things about Mazda and their engines.

The dealer is offering a 50k miles/3 years warranty. No visual problems with the car and obviously I will take it to a 3rd party for inspection.

My first post on this sub. Wanted to share a photo i took of my car while I was at the rc flying field. She's definitely not the prettiest but she still looks amazing!

To start im hoping to get a mazda around 2028 since ill have enough money by then, I have weighed the pros and cons but still stuck on buying one

I want one that I can daily and still have a punch the 2020s really brings that to the table but I still wanna have alot of tuning capabilities and the skyactiv is not known for modding :/

Much help would be appreciated

Hey guys

My mazda won’t start less i touch the key fob to the ignition, i got it a week ago but then i noticed the battery was really low but even then the dash would light up and i would be able to jumpstart, then i couldn’t jumpstart it anymore and i figured the battery was dead

i’ve changed the key fob battery and the car battery itself, it starts without any issues when i use the key fob
but as soon as i turn it off the entire car goes dead like there’s nothing on at all, no dash lights nothing

and also even when it starts the infotainment screen is completely dead. No back up camera no sound

UPDATE: It was the room fuse, its all good now thank you!

Saw this custom color cx-70 with aftermarket wheels. So nice.

and is this a problem? 2019 cx-3, no lights on the dash and has most likely been like this for the last year. replaced a different wiring harness when i bought the car used a year ago because that was making it throw codes but i just happened upon this one a couple weeks ago. second image is roughly where in the bay this is located since i only have the one extremely close photo on hand sorry lol

Honda passport elite is 80k miles awd elite trim at 26l an

Multiple Mazda cx9 signature has varied miles but won’t go above 70k miles

My OTD is 25k plus my trade in value of my Honda CRV 2011 at 142k miles

I think I’m at the final two bosses. Help!

Hola comunidad, escribo para pedir su opinión experta sobre un problema con mi Mazda 6 2007. Adjunto dos videos (uno de antes y otro de después del trabajo del taller) para que puedan escuchar el sonido.

Antecedentes e intervención del taller:

• El carro ingresó originalmente con dos códigos de falla: P0012 y P2010.
• El taller abrió el sistema de distribución y descubrió dos problemas graves iniciales: la empacadura no era la adecuada y la cámara (culata) instalada era de un modelo viejo (2005), por lo que los orificios de aceite no coincidían con el bloque del 2007.
• Tuve que comprar otra cámara, la cual mandaron a rectificar.
• Al armar, quedó un ruido extrañó. Luego me dijeron que el tensor/guía ("rashe") estaba malo y tuve que comprar otro. A pesar de cambiarlo, el carro quedó con un sonido constante a máquina de coser en la parte superior.

Síntomas y códigos actuales:

• Códigos activos: El P2010 persiste. El P0012 se había ido temporalmente, pero volvió a aparecer. (Nota: Me apareció también un P0443 de emisiones que el taller ya corrigió).
• Consumo: El carro tiene un consumo exagerado de gasolina.
• Falla de ralentí: Al frenar o en ralentí, las revoluciones caen drásticamente a 300 RPM, el carro tarda en responder al acelerar, y la falla empeora notablemente al encender el aire acondicionado.

La postura del taller: Me aceptan la garantía y dicen estar dispuestos a revisar la calibración de nuevo (aunque confían ciegamente en su rectificadora). Sin embargo, como "peor de los casos", insisten en que el sonido es un "pasador de pistón", omitiendo por completo el análisis de los códigos electrónicos e hidráulicos activos (P0012 y P2010) que siguen en la computadora.

Mis preguntas para los expertos:

1. ¿Basándose en los síntomas, los códigos (P0012/P2010) y el sonido superior, esto apunta realmente a un pasador de pistón abajo en el bloque, o es un problema derivado del armado de la cámara, la sincronización o la presión de aceite superior?
2. ¿Qué opinan del comportamiento del carro en los semáforos (caída a 300 RPM) tras estos trabajos?..
3. Pd, reddit no me deja subir el video por lo que adjunto el video de como suena mi carro actualmente

Car still runs. Hasn’t overheat or anything. No indicators on the dash to check the engine. Also believe I have an oil leak smh. Car has only been driven 4000 miles since I bought it.

Edit: I never gave much detail. When I popped the hood I found the oil reservoir and coolant reservoir completely empty. There is zero on the dipstick after 4000miles (only had for 3 months) but my car never gave a low oil pressure warning, no indication of running hot, no leaking under the car, no white exhaust, and so forth. The issues were practically invisible until smelled exhaust in the cabin and checked. It failed so quietly. The engine is completely drained of all fluids. We had to have it towed to Mazda. The technician mentioned they would call me back tomorrow if this turned from a normal repair to a factory repair.