Car still runs. Hasn’t overheat or anything. No indicators on the dash to check the engine. Also believe I have an oil leak smh. Car has only been driven 4000 miles since I bought it.

Edit: I never gave much detail. When I popped the hood I found the oil reservoir and coolant reservoir completely empty. There is zero on the dipstick after 4000miles (only had for 3 months) but my car never gave a low oil pressure warning, no indication of running hot, no leaking under the car, no white exhaust, and so forth. The issues were practically invisible until smelled exhaust in the cabin and checked. It failed so quietly. The engine is completely drained of all fluids. We had to have it towed to Mazda. The technician mentioned they would call me back tomorrow if this turned from a normal repair to a factory repair.

This seems to be some relatively new shop selling custom firmware for gen 6 infotainment. Has anyone looked into this? I'd be reluctant to pay for any sort of firmware or tweaks, as this is the first time I've ever heard of someone selling cfw.

https://miatafy.com/

With all this AI madness we see avalanche of open source reverse engineering software. Any chance we will see replacement for this crappy app?

TL:DR: car won't crank/start, Key is recognized, brake switch changed, radio/horn/alarm does not work. Have bought a new stock steering lock but trying to see if it's anything else before replacing it. Pressing the ignition currently does not even trigger the theft lock. I have an Autel device to read codes without the on position. cannot get car to ACC or ON position.

First off, I had bought a used 155k miles Mazda-6 2009 from a family friend for cheap because other car never got fixed. So I'm a year into a bunch of car issues and kinda broke trying to fix my previous car. hoping some Mazda techs could help out here as there aren't many answers out there. Currently the car recognizes the key and when I hit the brake, both stages of the brake press are green. It is a button start only. No key turn ignition. So far, I have checked the fuses, changed the brake switch, and I have an extra steering lock to replace since the immobilizer and antenna are also inside. Thinking maybe there's a short somewhere but I also cannot get it to the ACC or ON position even with everything green. If I replace the steering lock and I can get it to the ON, I can't reprogram it anyways.

The previous owner had said that the radio doesn't work and tried to have it fixed and they jumped something to a fuse under the dashboard by the floor. It still wouldn't work after some time so he kept driving it for many years as a key only car. Key fob locking, radio, interior lights don't work and he would insert the key to have the car recognize it to start.

Trying to figure out what my next step is, whether to change the steering lock, check the wiring for shorts, or something else. I just don't have any money left after a years worth of paying for my previous car which never got fixed. Any help would be great

Saw this custom color cx-70 with aftermarket wheels. So nice.

I am wondering: is the mazda red soul crystal such a bad color? Recently a small plant hit my side by driving around 30 km/h and that happened.

I am also used to all the cracks happening due to stone hits at my motor hood. And doing diy color repair by myself to avoid cost xD

Now I am wondering: are other car companies better at this? Like different paint etc. or is it all the same?

But yeah I d never change my mazda 3 choice in red :D …

PERFORMANCE:

MX-5: RWD living dream (small architecture performance platform)

COMPACT:

MZ-3: FWD (small architecture platform)

CX-30: F-AWD (small architecture platform)

MID-SIZE:

MZ-6: R-AWD not-real dream wagon (large architecture platform)

CX-5: F-AWD, efficient (small IRS architecture platform)

CX-50: F-AWD, wide, and rugged (small architecture platform)

CX-60: R-AWD, premium (large architecture platform)

FULL-SIZE:

CX-90: R-AWD, premium (large architecture platform)

Edited to try to fix spacing but didn't work :(

Got a 2023 CX9. Can I buy this part and fix on my own? If so, what's the name of what to look for? Sometimes the door doesn't close properly as a result of it not being attached.

Asked the dealership how much it would cost to replace and they quoted me $260 😒😒

If it's gonna cost a pretty penny to replace then I can live with it; however, I'd ideally love to have it fixed.

My first post on this sub. Wanted to share a photo i took of my car while I was at the rc flying field. She's definitely not the prettiest but she still looks amazing!

I have an appointment with the dealership Wednesday AM. Could anyone experienced possibly tell me what these might mean? 2023 cx-9. Brake fluid is not actually low, car isn't having issues with braking etc. All of these randomly appeared yesterday. Also worth noting that the error codes disappear after maybe 30 mins of driving. Super weird.

I didn’t plan on it, I really just wanted my oil change and to move on in life. But when he came and sat next to me in the waiting room just now all sad and dejected like he was about to tell me my dog died only to present a list of suggested services that included $110 for a cabin filter, $100 for an engine air filter, $85 to clean battery terminals and $1550 for brakes I couldn’t contain myself. He wasn’t amused, I really don’t care but I did have to share the absurdity of these prices they ask. I really wonder how many people say ok.

I’m driving, the car kicks, slows down then these warnings pop up on my screen. Is anyone able to help?

Hi everyone,

I have 2016 cx-5 touring.

I attached 1 photos of each rear rotor (the one with deep scoring is right rear).

Here is a timeline including more details:

• I got all new brake pads and rotors on all 4 wheels about 7000 miles ago. Duralast elite brake pads and Duralast rotors.
• Drove across the country a few months later.
• This past weekend I was driving up high elevation (10000ft), and going downhill for multiple minutes. I probably had my foot lightly on the brake pad almost the whole time.
• Low pressure light comes on. Pulled over a minute later. Back right wheel very hot and burning smell
• Took it to nearest auto-shop, brakes are not locked and everything checks out ok besides the damage done on back rear rotor (thickness still 10mm).

1) What could have happened here and why is everything seem to be working ok now?

2) There is a known 2016 cx5 issue with the EPB electrical system and calipers locking in the rear wheels. I have never had this issue in 10 years and it only happened on right rear so is this unlikely what happened?

3) Was it a bad idea getting third party brand brake pads and rotors? Could this have caused the issue? Or perhaps the mechanic damaged the caliper while working on it?

4) How to proceed? I already took it to auto-shop and everything looked ok. Possible I need new rear calipers? Mazda wants to charge an arm and leg for rotors/brake pads/ calipers and I am not sure if these is even needed since they are only ~7000 miles old.

I am all about safety and am totally fine getting something replaced if need be, but I am trying to figure if this was a one off event or not because I was going downhill for so long and now its working fine.

It seems silly going to get new brake pads and rotors (potentially calipers) since these are new and the issue is not happening anymore.

To start im hoping to get a mazda around 2028 since ill have enough money by then, I have weighed the pros and cons but still stuck on buying one

I want one that I can daily and still have a punch the 2020s really brings that to the table but I still wanna have alot of tuning capabilities and the skyactiv is not known for modding :/

Much help would be appreciated

Hey guys

My mazda won’t start less i touch the key fob to the ignition, i got it a week ago but then i noticed the battery was really low but even then the dash would light up and i would be able to jumpstart, then i couldn’t jumpstart it anymore and i figured the battery was dead

i’ve changed the key fob battery and the car battery itself, it starts without any issues when i use the key fob
but as soon as i turn it off the entire car goes dead like there’s nothing on at all, no dash lights nothing

and also even when it starts the infotainment screen is completely dead. No back up camera no sound

and is this a problem? 2019 cx-3, no lights on the dash and has most likely been like this for the last year. replaced a different wiring harness when i bought the car used a year ago because that was making it throw codes but i just happened upon this one a couple weeks ago. second image is roughly where in the bay this is located since i only have the one extremely close photo on hand sorry lol

Really trying to get more data on how widespread this is.

So I have my premium turbo S now for about a year, and I was always worried about the direct injection fouling up the valves eventually because all direct injections do. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the inline 6’s all have a built-in oil/air separator that is built into the pcv valve outlet. A bonus is that it has a drainback function that drains separated oil back to the oil pan. Thank you, Mazda!