Have a 15-year-old trance that two different techs told me needs a new heat exchanger. The homeowner is a close friend and said we can definitely do it on our own. Everything I see says that is a bad idea. Is changing a heat exchanger something two kinda handy dudes can do? For reference, I had to look up what a heat exchanger was.

Needing some advice, is this something I need to take seriously and pay or can I get away with it for a while?
Thanks in advance!

Basically, I need to understand what I'm looking at before I proceed with the thermostat upgrade. Does this mean I can run a smart thermostat on my forced air/fuel oil and central air set up? Present thermostat is an ancient white rogers that I fried while I was relocating during a room renovation. (I'm ashamed. I'm a low voltage electrician. 😞😅 (Included - pic of how the old white rogers looked.

Im intending on using a Amazon Smart Thermostat (Model: S6ED3R). I can grab furnace model if it'd help but I'd figure the wiring boards may look different but they're likely labeled pretty straight forward. G is always G, R is always R etc. anyhow, forgive me - 5am on a Saturday and I'm running -1000 hours of sleep.

Thanks in advance!

I just turned on my basement furnace for the first time all year and noticed air coming out of the gaps where the existing foil tape is.

Should I just add new tape to close these gaps or should I be more concerned?

Thank you in advance!

Stuck on a call and can’t figure out what is causing all this rust. Vents aren’t clogged, intake pipe has a drain trap, evap is draining properly, no signs of water outside of unit except for a weird spot on the copper line. I don’t understand why there would be rust on top of the drain trap.

Been in the industry 10 years and a service manager for 2 years.

Long story short I’m at a breaking point. Resi/light commercial/refrigeration company. It’s a 10 man shop. I’m the service manager, on salary, but going on call (no extra pay) because we’re short staffed. I’m the ONLY person that knows refrigeration here. My lead tech sorta understands it but often I’m running those service calls to help him. I’m also the project manager on the refrigeration jobs because our project manager doesn’t know refrigeration. Today I actually had to install the system myself because an installer called out sick and no one else could figure it out. The owners, husband and wife, are never around. Always coaching kids sports or some other bs. I hardly have time for my office work so I’m doing it at home. My dispatcher is incompetent so I’m doing most the dispatching myself.. at this point why the hell am I not putting my name on the van.. right? Idk. One of those days.

I’m burnt out. My lead tech makes more money than me. Thought this service management was building a good resume but man.. fuck this. Not worth $80k a year.

Can you guys share your experience on starting your own company? My main concern is building clientele. I have experience with the business side of the hvac work being the service manager, but a lot to learn obviously.

Is radiant floor heat via water heater/boiler system sufficient enough to heat a properly insulated home in the eastern part of South Carolina?

Floor heat would go through both levels of the house.

I do most of my work in this room, so it's very annoying. It's a large wall heater/air conditioner like this: https://thecabindepot.ca/cdn/shop/files/DV-25clip.jpg?v=1758394905

-- except with even bigger vents basically across the whole thing, and it's a very small room, so there's no real way to get away from it.

Any advice? Getting blasted with a torrent of hot/cold air constantly is not fun. Is it safe to stick like a giant screen in front of it or something? I'm kind of worried about the heat causing issues.

Usually apartment units blow air out of vents aimed straight up or very low to the ground. This is the first time I've run into one blowing air right at me at chest level.

Hi everyone,

I have an Ameristar furnace. I have an issue with this and I am reaching out to you to help me pinpoint which sensor might be at fault and where exactly it is. The issue is that after turning it on, it runs properly for about 8 minutes and then it shuts off but it immediately restarts the cycle - ignition, vents turning on and about 30 seconds the blower starts blowing the hot air to the pipes. I have already tried with a new filter. I tired with filter off. I also checked if all winter pipes/registers are open and they are. I also restarted it and turned it off of the grid for about 10 minutes. The only thing that helps however, if I remove the side panel and I lean it on the safety shutoff switch so it can operate. When doing this, the furnace is able to operate for about 40 minutes even. The LED does not show any faults.

House was built in 82. So this has been a long time coming. Just wish the previous folks would have had it taken care of.

But it seems like this was one of those out of sight out of mind deals.

I also attached the description of the work that needs to be done.

Thank you for any feedback.

I am in the process of getting multiple quotes.

Looking for opinions from HVAC professionals because I’m trying to determine whether I actually need to replace my furnace or if there’s a way to safely correct the existing setup.
Background:
I recently purchased a roughly 2,050 sq. ft. home in Southeast Texas. We had an HVAC company come out for a routine tune-up and inspection because my kids have been coughing, and I wanted to rule out any air-quality issues.
During the inspection, the technician identified what he considered a serious combustion-air safety concern.
My current setup:
Furnace: Trane XB80, model TUE1B080A9481AD
80,000 BTU/hr input, approximately 80% AFUE
Open-combustion, induced-draft natural gas furnace
Installed horizontally in the attic
Attic roofline was spray-foam insulated in 2019
Furnace has a metal exhaust flue vented through the roof
Existing AC system works fine
What the HVAC technician told me:
Because the attic is encapsulated with spray foam, the furnace may not be receiving enough combustion air. He raised concerns about incomplete combustion, carbon monoxide, and potential backdrafting.
He recommended replacing the furnace with a sealed-combustion unit and specifically told us not to operate the heater until the issue is resolved.
He also mentioned that because his company had already serviced the system, they had liability concerns.
I understand the safety implications, especially with two young children in the house. I’m taking that seriously and keeping the heater off.
However, I haven’t been provided any combustion-analysis readings, draft measurements, combustion-air calculations, or documentation explaining why replacement is the only acceptable solution.
Here’s where things get interesting.
I contacted the previous homeowner, who maintained the house extensively.
He explained that when the attic was spray foamed in 2019, they specifically accounted for the furnace ventilation.
He claims there are TWO separate roof vents:
The existing furnace combustion exhaust.
Another roof vent connected by flexible ductwork to the furnace area, apparently intended to bring in outside air.
He said the system was designed to draw air from outside despite the spray foam insulation.
He also operated the heater every winter without noticing any issues, although I understand that doesn’t rule out carbon monoxide or combustion problems.
What I found in the attic:
While inspecting the furnace, I noticed a separate insulated flexible duct with a round metal opening and a Honeywell motorized damper actuator.
Initially, I thought the duct was disconnected. However, looking closer, I believe the actuator may actually have the damper closed, which would explain why the opening appears blocked.
I don’t know what controls the actuator, when it’s supposed to open, or whether this duct supplies outdoor combustion air, fresh air for the house, or something else entirely.
The previous homeowner specifically mentioned a separate roof vent and flexible duct installed when the attic was spray foamed in 2019.
I’m wondering whether this motorized damper could be part of that original ventilation arrangement.
I’ll attach pictures of the furnace, ductwork, and damper.
What I’m trying to figure out:
I understand that an open-combustion furnace cannot safely rely on an inadequate air supply inside a tightly sealed attic.
But is replacing the entire furnace really necessary?
I’ve been researching several alternatives:
Repairing the existing outside-air intake, assuming the previous owner actually had one installed and it can meet code.
Installing a properly sized outdoor combustion-air duct that supplies air to the furnace area.
Building a separate, sealed mechanical enclosure around the existing furnace, with its own outdoor combustion-air supply, to preserve the rest of the encapsulated attic.
Replacing the furnace with a sealed-combustion model if the other options aren’t feasible.
My other concern is that introducing hot, humid Southeast Texas air directly into my encapsulated attic could undermine the benefits of the spray foam and create moisture or condensation problems.
I’m trying to avoid spending thousands replacing a working furnace if a properly engineered, code-compliant alternative exists.
Questions for HVAC professionals:
Can this particular Trane XB80 operate safely in an encapsulated attic with a dedicated outdoor combustion-air supply?
Does the existing roof intake described by the previous owner sound like a legitimate arrangement?
Could the Honeywell motorized damper be related to combustion air, or is it more likely part of a fresh-air ventilation system?
If that damper is normally closed, how would I determine whether it’s supposed to open when the furnace operates?
Would adding an outdoor-air duct significantly compromise the attic’s humidity control and energy efficiency?
Is building a separate combustion-air enclosure around a horizontal furnace a realistic, code-compliant option?
What specific testing should I request to determine whether the existing furnace is actually unsafe?
Would you recommend repairing the combustion-air arrangement or replacing the furnace?
I’m planning to get an independent combustion-safety inspection with actual CO, draft, spillage, and combustion-air measurements before making any decisions.
I’m not accusing the original HVAC company of dishonesty. I understand their liability concerns, but I’d like objective evidence before agreeing to a potentially $6,000–$10,000 replacement.
If this were your house, what would you do? Is there a reasonable way to keep this furnace safely, or is replacement genuinely the best option?
Any advice from experienced HVAC technicians, installers, or building-science professionals would be appreciated.

HVAC Cost Optimization | شركة حلول مولدن | Molden Technical Solutions

English Description:

Reducing HVAC operating costs does not always require equipment replacement.

Improper airflow distribution, unbalanced water systems, and inefficient control settings may increase energy consumption.

Why it matters:
Optimization can improve operating efficiency and help control building expenses.

Engineering solutions:
• Evaluate existing HVAC performance.
• Measure airflow and water flow.
• Review control settings and schedules.
• Perform system balancing where required.
• Verify and document improvements.

الشرح بالعربية:

لا يتطلب خفض تكاليف تشغيل التكييف بالضرورة استبدال المعدات الحالية.

الأهمية:
قد تسبب مشكلات الموازنة والتحكم زيادة في استهلاك الطاقة وتكاليف التشغيل.

الحلول الهندسية:
• تقييم أداء الأنظمة الحالية.
• قياس تدفق الهواء والمياه.
• مراجعة إعدادات التحكم وجداول التشغيل.
• تنفيذ أعمال الموازنة اللازمة.
• التحقق من نتائج التحسين وتوثيقها.

Company Information | معلومات الشركة

شركة حلول مولدن الفنية للاستشارات ذ.م.م
Molden Technical Solutions for Consulting Co. W.L.L. (MTSC)

Address: Al-Murqab, Omar Bin Al-Khattab Street, Kuwait City, Kuwait
Phone: +965 2228 6582
Mobile: +965 9751 7450
Fax: +965 2228 6583
Website: www.mtscco.com
Email: [info@mtscco.com](mailto:info@mtscco.com)

ENGINEERING PERFORMANCE. VERIFIED.

#MTSC #HVACOptimization #EnergySavings #OperatingCosts #HVACEfficiency

As the colder weather is approaching, we’ve started having to use the heat setting again at night. A few days ago when we turned it on for the first time in months, we heard the initial clicking and got scared and called the HVAC company. They came and said it was fine; it was just because the unit is old and hadn’t been used in months. It’s doing it again tonight. The clicking is coming from both the humidifier (AprilAire Model 560) and the furnace where it actually ignites. The humidifier thing is also leaking/dripping. Before we call someone out here again, what could this be? What should we ask about? This is our first year in a house and know nothing! The unit is pretty old. Video for sound.

Just moved into a newer build home, previous owners had the gas off, I’m assuming because the house was vacant. Furnace works fine (HRV runs smooth) but noticed the heat wasn’t working. Should I get a tech out to do their thing or am I safe to turn the valve on?

I am looking to replace an HVAC system, but for now, I just need someone to recover the R22 refrigerant from this 37-year-old system (from 1989 according to the nameplate) since I detected a leak in the evaporator coils using a leak detector. For peace of mind, since the evaporator coils are downstream from the air handler and furnace, I would like to have the refrigerant lines discharged. I am hoping I am able to use the air handler and furnace during the winter.

How much is typically the price for this service?
There is about 20-30 feet worth of refrigerant plumbing between the evaporator coils and the outdoor condenser unit.

Location: Austin, Texas

Our whole apartment smells funky even though it is freshly cleaned. I suspect it is from the AC, but I have been told by the apartment HVAC tech there is nothing to be done. The inside of this looks pretty bad, am I overreacting? If it is bad, what can I do to remediate the issue or advocate for myself? Since I moved in I have had bad congestion. I live in Houston if that is helpful info.

We bought this old home about three weeks ago. The sellers said they had the boiler serviced a week or two before we moved in.

I’ve noticed this sound twice. It lasts for a minute or so and stops. The sellers said they leave the system on 50° all the time so it cycles.

What is this?

I was changing my filter this morning and noticed this white, fibrous, material. It looks to have come from the exhaust tube but I’m not sure for how long. I cleaned around the area to see if it’s something that is still happening but time will tell on that. Any ideas what this could be? Trying to get an idea before I call and have it inspected.

I have a Bryant 801SA gas furnace manufactured in 2021, located in my attic, with a Honeywell T6 Pro thermostat and a ZoneFirst two-zone system for upstairs and downstairs.

I’ve been having a strange intermittent heating issue:
The furnace works normally during the afternoon.
Late at night or overnight, it stops heating even though my thermostat still displays “Heat On.”
The furnace’s amber diagnostic light previously appeared to flash 1 short flash followed by 4 long flashes, which I believe may be Code 14 (ignition lockout).
By around noon, the furnace often starts working again.
The flame sensor has already been replaced, but the problem continues.
I also changed the air filter recently.
Sometimes the furnace starts working again after I turn the thermostat off and back on.
I’m wondering whether colder overnight temperatures could be affecting the pressure switch, venting, igniter, gas valve, or another component. I’m also wondering whether the thermostat or ZoneFirst zoning controller could be involved.

Has anyone experienced a Bryant furnace that repeatedly fails overnight but works again later in the day? What would you have a technician check next?
I don’t want to keep replacing parts without identifying the actual cause. Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated.

Mildly worried but I'm not sure if I should be. I live in a rental house, we've been here 8 years, furnace has been here longer than that but I'm unsure how old it actually is. We have 3 cats and a dog, and we all vape inside the home, just for context. We just turned on the furnace for the first time this since winter/spring, and it produced the expected/typical burning smell of hair and dust and such, but also the entire house got a bit hazy? It was running for 5-10 minutes before I realized we were in a haze, so I turned the furnace off and the haze is dissipating. Went downstairs and changed the furnace filter because yesterday was 3 months since it was last changed. Kinda nervous to turn the furnace on again. My carbon monoxide detector didn't go off, and I tested it to make sure it was working. Zero furnace maintenance has been done since we moved in, other than us replacing the filter every 2-3 months. Any suggestions/thoughts? I'm looking into having a tech come out to service the furnace just because it's been 8+ years since it's been done.

I just replaced the motor for the fan on the condenser outside.

I was trying to find a video how to reverse the fan direction and seen in a video a guy pulled a little plug out of the motor.

I tried to see it in different videos and only seen it in one. My old motor didn’t have one. The new one did. I removed it. Pic is of old one.

Why is there a random rubber plug here? Are there any more that needed to be removed?

Have been dealing with a foul smell from behind locked ac door, told property management about it through written letter (previous portal request with no response) and only had maintenance come 7 days later but when maintenance came they said there was no mold however i took pics once they open door (attached) says they will NOW do something “Our contractor, Total Apartment Solutions, will be onsite tomorrow to address and treat the affected area within your A/C closet. We want to ensure that the conditions you've documented receive appropriate attention beyond the HVAC maintenance already performed.” On the day maintenance came said there was no leak through i heard dripping through locked door and they replaced: Covered the fresh-air duct, Replaced the air filter.
, Cleaned the evaporator coil and Identified five supply vents requiring replacement. They said the work for affected area will take a day but are they going to half ass it? They also said they will “Our A/C technicians will return on Monday to address the airflow and ventilation conditions contributing to the issue within the closet. Our goal is to address the contributing conditions, not simply clean the affected surfaces and leave the underlying concern unresolved”, I don’t necessarily trust what they said because their techs said there was no mold however the mold is baddd and seems to be throughout ac and only acted once i sent the pictures that i had luckily because they unlocked the door and left for supplies. What Should i do, is the work trustable i’m already dealing with headaches and stuffy nose/constant sneezing and recently a nosebleed. Stuck in what to do called code enforcement but they are delayed and don’t have lawyer to go over applicable options. Also in Houston TX if that helps. Want to terminate lease but don’t have money like that and don’t think management will let me go easily.