I recently installed a bunch of upgrades on my printer, including a direct drive tool head. but the BLTouch I installed when I first got the thing is acting weird. clicking in and out instead of clicking out and waiting to touch the bed. Im sometimes able to get it to work properly if i flick the damn thing. but its inconsistent. is it failing? should I buy a replacement? should I switch to a CRTouch instead? I JUST bought a new bracket for the BLTouch in the first place so, if I switch over to a CRTouch do I need to replace it too? Please Help

My printer is printing super messy, I’m guessing it’s the overture filament. All my other filaments print great and I tried this one and was having a stringing problem. What can I do to fix this, I’m running at 200c nozzle and 60c bed temp. I tried this print twice with the same results

after about 3 weeks of tuning this machine everyday, multiple times, but its finally over Thanks to a very good handful of you guys and I really really apreciate it!, mods: CR Touch, Silicone Spacers+Metal Knobs

i picked up a 3v2 off a guy on facebook marketplace recently who said he had modified it in various ways i don’t quite understand, such as it has an auto-level feature now. this is my first ever printer so i don’t know how to troubleshoot it myself. whenever its printing, leveling, or even just turned on, the printer makes a very annoying grinding sound when it’s on the left side of the bed. it gets worse the more left it goes.

i’m sure it’s whatever the casing of the nozzle-thingy is that’s causing it, considering the fact that it’s held together with a piece of tape and when i press on it the noise drops dramatically, but i have no idea what that actually means and how to fix it. is there anything i can do?

Well, I’m mechanically inclined. I’ve always been willing to listen to other people‘s experiences.

And I’m still new to 3-D printing. Any advice or links for best practices would also be appreciated.

hello all,

i updated my ender 3 v2 to sprite pro. have gone through all the necessary steps as with settings and hardware and firmware.

the printer is working fine except i have a problem with the first layer not sticking to the surface (default glass surface). after that it prints fine.

have tried reducing speed, changing z depth, cleaning glass etc. but still happenn9ing.

the weird thing is that it sticks fine when the prints just starts and the printer prints a line at the left side (that's how i know my z depth is ok). after that it goes to the center and nothing sticks...

any ideas will be great.

thanks in advance,

joel

Hi everyone,

I'm having a recurring extrusion problem with my Ender 3 V2 and would appreciate some help figuring out the cause.

The problem:
My prints start normally, but at some point during the print, the printer suddenly stops extruding filament. The printer continues all its movements as if everything were working normally, but the nozzle moves around printing in the air without depositing any filament. The print is essentially ruined from that point onward.

I've also noticed a clicking or skipping noise from the extruder when the problem occurs.

What I've tried so far:

• Cleaned the nozzle multiple times.
• Replaced the nozzle, but the problem persisted.
• Checked the extruder gear visually (see attached photo). I'm wondering whether it might be worn out or slipping.

My setup:

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 V2
• Filament: SUNLU PLA+ 2.0
• Firmware: mriscoc professional firmware
• BLTouch with UBL bed leveling
• Textured PEI build plate

I'm currently suspecting the extruder mechanism, possibly a worn drive gear or an extruder motor that starts skipping. However, I'm not sure whether this could also be caused by a clog elsewhere in the hotend, heat creep, incorrect extruder tension, or something else.

My questions:

1. Does the extruder gear in the attached photo look worn enough to cause this?
2. What would you check first, given that cleaning and replacing the nozzle haven't solved the problem?
3. Is there a reliable way to distinguish between a slipping extruder gear, a clog/heat creep, and a failing extruder motor?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Ive modded my stock ender 3v2 with a CR Touch, and upgraded tramming knobs and sillicone spacers, yet im still having to adjust the bed tram everytime, its even worse in mornings after its been cool for awhile too, hopefully this isnt just the ender experience cs Im about to just get a bambu💀

Já tentei de tudo para resolver esse problema, se algum puder me dar uma dica.

Já mexi em fluxo, temperatura, velocidade. Já verifiquei correias da impressora, folgas.

não sei se pode ser filamento (estou com voolt3d), mas passei o dia tentando resolver isso.

Sorry for the bad photo, my back camera doesn’t work. I haven’t used my printer in about a year or so and wanted to try and boot it up to print some cosplay stuff I wanted to make. I used a fresh PLA filament and my printer constantly stops extruding every single time. The filament pusher on the back is working with no cracks or visible damage, the filament itself looks to be fine, it’s just whenever I try to print something it always clogged itself up before it reaches above 5 layers. I can use a needle to unclog it and it extrudes fine again. But that never lasts for the actual prints. Any help or things to check would be nice. Also unrelated, the BL touch auto level thing feels like a waste of money💔💔💔

I watched multiple tutorials and tried multiple things now, but my bl touch still doesnt seem to work. I installed the latest version of the bl touch software, made sure it is for the right mainboard and cpu. I connected the bl touch correctly and disconnected the z-axis stopper (or whatever its called). I have tried leaving the z-axis stopper connected, but then the printer was just using that for leveling instead of the bl touch.

Now without the z-axis stopper, I cant level the printer. When I press auto leveling, he goes to the stopper for x and y axis but afterwards he just goes into the center and freezes without checking for the z axis and gets stuck in the auto leveling menu (like you can see on the picture)

I really need some advice here. Sorry if my english isn’t perfect, it’s usually quite good, but ngl the printer linguistics are a bit hard

hi guys , I have an old ender 3v2 clone with a PEI Bed , But E3 V3 mobo and I want to revive it (i haven't used her for quite some time now) I want to spend some money on essential mods , and I need some tips, it still runs on Marley firmware, and along the way I also switched to a 12864 screen cus I broke the original one , I'm talking the so known klipper (which pie should I buy?) i like tinkering with the thing so throw your ideas at me 💪

Hey guys!! I've been printing for a few months now and eeeeeevery once in a while the bed on my printer shifts and as you know... screws up the print like in the photos I added...how can I stop this from happening??

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Does anyone have experience with printing these filaments listed above?

I got the hardened steel nozzle, upgrade firmware and pei bed.

Do I need any other upgrades, what settings worked best for you guys?

Sorry for the bad picture I’m building it in the garage on my work table full of car parts and tools.

I’ve never used or assembled a 3D printer. My friend gave me his old Ender 3 v2 he took it apart and put in a storage tote a few years ago (he upgraded to a Bambu lab). I put most of it back together with luck and a few videos but now I’m stuck and can’t find a video to help me further.

In the first picture, (sorry I don’t know what it’s called) I don’t know if I’m supposed to screw the brass part on the red piece but the black bracket gets in the way even if I unscrew the red part.

The second picture is a connector that was on the same line that connects to the motor for the plate it has a Y on it but I don’t see were it connects too.

I already asked my friend to help but he dosnt remember how to put it together and sent me a video that didn’t help. More information he gave me is he put an upgraded for an auto leveler (don’t know if that’s gonna be useful information)

Update: in the tote under padding I found another piece and wile watching Tomb of 3D printed horrors I seen it belongs to the the Y connector.

Update 2: I got it on but the black bracket is in the way of the brass piece so its at an angle but I didn’t crank it down just tight enough so it dosnt move.

Update 3: it’s working, I had to reconnect some wires underneath. I’m not gonna test it until I fix the bracket issue.

Thank you all for the help. If you got any tips on fixing the bracket issue or for the printer in general please feel free to share them with me.

I’m working on improving my print quality with PLA. I am a beginner and this is used Ender 3 V2 with BL Touch.

I’ve ran a handful of tests: temperature tower and z-offset test were where I noticed the biggest difference in print quality.
I ran a retraction test (distance and speed) and flow rate test; pulling on those levers didn’t seem to change the print quality much.

I recently tightened my x and y belts.
I use a creality dryer to keep my filament warm and remove humidity.

From looking at the images, my bottom layers appear the cleanest, but I lose quality on the perimeter and as the print gets taller.

Any help is appreciated!

Here are some of my settings on the Cura Slicer and with a .4mm nozzle:
Layer height - 28mm
Initial Later Height - .2mm
Line width - .65mm
Wall thickness - 1.3mm
Wall Line Count - 2
Top Thickness - 1.04mm
Top Layers - 4
Bottom Thickness - .3mm
Bottom Layers - 2
Horizontal Expansion - 0mm
Infill Density - 20%
Infill Pattern - Gyroid
Infill Layer Thickness - .28mm
Printing Temp - 195C
Printing Temp initial layer - 215
Build Plate Temperature - 60C
Flow - 85%
Print Speed - 70mm/s
Outer Wall Speed - 20mm/s
Inner Wall Speed - 30mm/s
Initial Layer Speed - 20mm/s
Z hop speed - 5mm/s
Z hop when retracted - enabled
Z hop height - .2mm
Retraction Distance - 5mm
Retraction Speed - 45mm/s

Either the top layer keeps getting pulled off or sometimes pulls the print off the bed. I run the professional firmware on the v2 Evo and using Overtrue petg filament. I adjusted the bed level and ran new bed mesh before every print. I also changed the nozzle which helped a lot actually. And changed the bed plate with epoxy B plate

My settings in prusa slicer are

- first layer height 0.24mm and .2mm after that

-Temps first layer 225 and 70 and after that 220 65

When I did the print test at these lower temp helped with string and made the filament look uniform

- Fan runs minimum speed and goes full speed after 5 layers