Most likely a humid filament, been printing with it on and off for a month, can't really invest in a filament dryer asof now so normally do the heated bed trick but forgot this time. Also it has the direct drive mod, retraction distance is 0.6mm

But apart from this it's an amazing way to maximise the microplastics in the air when I do remove the strings

Generic PLA, 212 C nozzle, 50C Bed, ~55% humidity

I've seen a couple of Videos talking about upgrading an ender 3 to a Direct drive for a faster Print and better retraction only using Some screws 3d printed part, and stock Stepper Motor.

In the comments, There's alot of Complaint about The Weight that being put into the Head and id made some Printer wobbly.

I mainly print PLA and Petg, And I don't have any plans on printing on any other Filament at the moments.

Should i be changing it to Direct drive, And Should the 3d printed direct drive Upgrade be fine to use?

I've had this ender 3 for nearly 5 years at this point, just got it out of the closet and printed it a new fan duct and direct drive upgrade (using my Bambu Lab P2S) and it works great! The power supply has blown up twice and has been replaced twice, other than that everything is pretty much original. Not much to say I just wanted to show my soldier off.

I got fresh filament and it looks solid now but it still does the stringing.

I did a temp tower and a retract tower.

Recently i bought 3 new glass build plates for my ender 3 pros and my ender 3 v2. While leveling the beds for the pros (original had magnet plates) i noticed the center would have a bigger gap than the corners, i flipped the plate over to see if it was warped and the plate touches the nozzel. All 3 did this, what can I do to fix this issue? Or am I going to have to return them and find new ones after waiting a week for these

Edit: i also tested the original glass bed for my v2 and it dosnt even touch it on either side because its flat so that led me to think its the plates

Anytime I go to auto home the printer or try and start a print it just digs itself into the bed pushes the whole thing down while melting the bed in the process, otherwise it will try to home to the corner of the bed and just miss by 5mm and dig itself into the side, I hope nothing has bent yet but I figured I’d stop trying to do it myself and just ask for advice.

I’ve also tried setting home myself and it gives the prompt « too far » anytime I try and do it, even tho all I’ve done is add like 20mm of height to what it was before, I’m not really sure what to do, as long as I don’t break the printer I’m fine

Repurposing my very first printer, the trusty Ender 3. I'm on my 3rd printer now but don't have the heart to put her to the curb. So, I'm using as much as possible from it and I am breathing new life into this pain in the ass and it can drive me to insanity in a whole new way :) Next up is the gantry...

I have "purged" until filament came out looking normal, does it keep clogging or something? It does seem to not always be pulling filament through where the gear spins and pushes it into the tube leading to nozzle.

Print setting screen in pictures

I have levelled the bed again, in case it was not touching some spots

New to 3d printing, not sure where to start on this issue.

Any help is appreciated.

My son's ender 3 will start normal, everything is working fine and then at some point during the print it will stop extruding fliament but the machine keeps going like its working.

We've tried different filament. It also doesn't happen at the same point on each print (like 30min in), it seems to happen randomly.

The hotend isnt hot when we find it continuing to print without extruding.

Could the hotend be bad? Is there a way to check and know for sure?

Where do I start when troubleshooting adhesion issues that seems to only happen on the right side? If I print relatively in the middle I don't have an issue. I recently tried printing a case for a raspberry pi 7" touchscreen I wanted to use for a Klipper screen and each print has had the same issue adhering on the right side. It's a glass bed and I use a glue stick when printing in PETG. I'm printing the case in PETG. I just cancelled a second print of the back piece after the first left a spaghetti mess when the initial brim came off the bed. I changed the angle and the supports came off the bed.

My printer: Ender 3 (original, v1, whatever it's referred to as now)

Mods: Dual Z Axis, Sprite Extruder Pro, V2 LCD Screen, MRiscoC fw, 4.2.7 main board, CR-Touch, wheel locks

Leveling: Bed mesh ran, leveled, trammed with wizard, acceptable tolerances (~.01-02)

Any help would be appreciated

Hi all I have been thinking about what to do with some of my old ender printers. Around the same time I came across laserburn a piece of software that allows you to create your own designs and laser engrave/cut them. So my goal became simple repurpose the Ender 3 S1 into a complete lazer cutter/engraver as if it was designed that way from the factory. I wanted full control of my machine though. Which is why I was inspired when I found laser burn. It allows me to use my own hardware and control it over the web. All of my parts to transform it were printed on my other fully custom Ender 3 EE(See my other post). I repurposed the Z axis as the new Y axis and left the X axis as is for the machine. The height is manually adjustable via grub screws on the side of the laser. This is the first time I have dipped my toes into the world of 2D design instead of 3D how scandalous! I hope it gives others motivation to finish their crazy projects.

Heatbreak clogged so I replaced it. Guess I did a piss-poor job 😭

I currently own an Ender 3 Neo. I've been wanting to install a Sprite Extruder, but keep hesitating. Found this Ender 3 S1 Pro with that Sprite Extruder for sale for $75. The seller installed this brand new extruder, but mentions he can't print successfully now. Mentioned the hotend eventually clogs during prints. Is it worth buying the Extruder brand new, or buy this S1 Pro?

Does anyone have a link to a new Sprite Extruder that's cheaper than brand new?

Edit: Currently negotiated it down to $50, but it's an 1.5hr drive away.

Hey everyone, I recently picked up a used Ender 3 V2 with a BLTouch and Professional firmware. It was working fine until it got stuck on the loading screen, so I had to flash new firmware. Since then, I can't get past the tramming/auto-leveling wizard.
The symptoms:

• When running the tramming wizard, it always ends with an "out of bounds" error, and the probe stops 1–2 mm above the bed without touching it.
• When I send the printer to "Home", the BLTouch flashes red (error state).
• I ran the Z-probe wizard and currently have my Z-offset set to -6.5
• I also tried older versions of fw

Hi there, I can't seem to figure out why after each print my build plate is so dirty, I can't seem to scrape it off, its like its embedded in it or something lol. I don't think I keep the bed or filament too hot (60 and 200 respectively) please let me know if I'm doing anything obviously wrong. Thank you! :)

I'm trying to push it through with the end of the roll, but it is REALLY stuck. Needle nose pliers are also having no luck.

I needed to replace the hotend and its wires. I did not want to replace the thermistor wires. But wasn't thinking properly and didn't just unplug the thermistor wires and cut off the mesh casing. I plan on tying up the wires a little to get out of the way, I just wasn't sure if the heat from the hotend will be a problem. The first thing I plan on printing is a cover for the wires 😅

Olá, tenho duas ender 3 pro paradas, uso vez ou uma pra imprimir algo mais detalhado, mas ainda sim ficam só ocupando espaço.

Queria fazer upgrades ou algum projeto legal e queria o auxílio de alguém que já fez, minha língua nativa é o português, então acompanhar vídeos em inglês tem sido bem difícil, por texto até que consigo me acompanhar.

Alguém que já tenha feito algum projeto pode me dar uma ajuda? Obrigado!

I have been trying to get my Ender 3 to print faster, and better for many years... as a learning exercise.

This is an original E3 from 2019 but upgraded with direct drive, bed probe, and SKR Mini V3 and screen. Other than that it is stock.

I took a different approach yesterday, instead of fiddling with my Cura "standard" settings and started the print. Estimated time 2hr 45min. After the first layer or two was down I went to settings and percentage and increased it to 300%. The print estimate was down, took a little over an hour to print, but the results were beautiful. No different than if I let it print slowly, and if I used my fast CURA settings I find the quality suffers. it doesn't look as nice. But by adjusting the speed this way the print time was cut and the results were awesome, and that is with Carbon Fiber PETG.

Perhaps this will help those that want faster prints, the only question I have is there something I am missing here? Something I should be aware of which could go wrong? It just seems too simple of a solution.

First time printing on air in a non-testing situation and it's going like a dream!

Got this S1 Pro on a "you get printer, I get some space back" deal from my best mate who went Bambu a year or so ago... And I'm determined to get it to a place where it out-performs his big investment just for the sheer cheek of it. Also been a heck of a way to learn the hobby.

Lots of little bits I've either designed myself or remixed terribly in Sketchup (which is the only CAD program I know well enough to tinker)

What have we done so far?

- Klipper + Screen (obviously)

- piCam mount X axis mount

- adxl345 mounts for input shaping

- linear rails X and Y

- WLED powered status leds

- Z-axis bracing, remixed for more rigidity

- chunkier stepper mount for the Y axis

- 5015 hot end and part cooling fans and ducting

- CHT nozzle (13mm3/s to 22mm3/s for £15!)

- a terribly designed z-axis belt tensioner

- it's literally printing squashball feet for itself in the video

I buried a 10A 5v converter in the base, which handles power vs for the LEDs, their esp32 controller, and the Pi.

It's taken a while, but I'm slowly knocking down the hurdles and mechanicals to push the speed and accel - this print is running at 4.5k and a max speed of 400mm/s (450 travelling). Currently limited by volumetric flow

And apparently printing like a charm... Love tinkering with this thing!