Just picked up a eonon r49 and need help figuring out how to send power to the amp so it wont go into “timeout” would i just wire this blue amp power into the dsp amp?

i just love the e39. shit i wish i’ll find a good one.

Hey guys I got those from Ebay and they are original bmw but those where the only ones available at an acceptable price, is there a way I can get BMW Individual stickers to put on top since my car is not m sport.

I have 2001 E39 530D touring, about a week ago my battery started draining after i got off from work the car wouldnt start, I thought it eas just bad battery, god almost new battery from a friend of mine and still drains in ~10 minutes, what could be the issue and would it just be smarter to get me a mass switch?

Cleared the codes and the only ones that disappeared were the Check coolant level and transmission failsafe. Car drives fine but it just has those electrical issues. I haven’t checked the LCM module yet for corrosion but I was wondering if it is that module should I even bother fixing it or sell the car 😭

Hello , i need to change my stock radio unit because its not working anymore , i found an used one coming from a car that had the phone option ... Is it plug and play ? Thx

I have e39 2001 540i (M62TUB44) with VANOS units, which I had rebuilt 8 years ago.

Intro: The oil pump failed (and bolt fell off it), we removed the timing chain to replace it (now I know better that this wasn’t the best option and now I suffer consequences, lets move on). Engine was locked, disassembled, all necessary work was performed, and it was reassembled. After reassembly the engine turned off almost immidiately after start at idle. Right after start INPA showed camshaft position Bank 1 = 16.4°, Bank 2 = 41.9°. Changed some stuff but after second reasembly I knew timing was THE problem.

What i did:
- Lock the flywheel with the pin (cyl 1 on compression)
- Pretension the chain with the tool in the tensioner port (Chinese tool, tightened until the chain has no slack).
- Loosen the VANOS timing plate nut and the camshaft bolts, holding the cam with a wrench on the hex.
- Fit the cam locking blocks (Chinese kit, sadly) and align the cams.
- Turn the VANOS counterclockwise to the hardstop
- Hold the cam and torque the bolts to spec.
- Fit the VANOS timing plate, fit the timing plate locking tool, align the plate and tighten.

After that I removed all locking tools, turn the crank by hand 4 turns in the direction of rotation (2 cam turns), and lock the flywheel again. All locking blocks fit except the Bank 1 intake cam (E). There's a huge gap between block and engine (see photo).

We did the whole proces again with the same result. The Bank 1 exhaust cam (A) fits, and both cams on Bank 2 fit perfectly.

Multimeter issue: I tested the VANOS (positive on the test pin on the VANOS face, negative to ground, VANOS at the stop). Bank 2 beeped, Bank 1 didn't, no matter how I turned it. Bank 1 only started beeping after I fitted the VANOS timing plate, but I'm not sure that isn't a false connection through the plate. Everything I read said the test is just a check and the stop is what matters, so I ignored it. Now I suspect it's related.

Could the Bank 1 VANOS be broken or is there a mistake in my procedure, e.g. chain pretension?

P.S. english is not my first language so apologies for possible term mistakes and also im not pro car mechanic, so mistakes during process are possibility, if so pleease tell me where so I can keep my old luv running

Sadly no version available for the e39 touring only the sedan so i made my own and you could print it yourself

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LeL3-g68jEG9eN9P4J40g1Oe5Ewsw0CQ/view?usp=sharing

Has anyone replaced the brake booster with a different one? The E39's is NLA and if available is absurdly expensive (In Europe). I wouldn't go for a used one because there's no guarantee it ain't been in waters.

Ty

Time for an aluminum power steering pulley replacement

Hi everyone,

I've recently noticed water dripping from the front interior light after going through a car wash with my E39 Touring.

Before everyone shouts clogged sunroof drains: I keep a close eye on them and make sure they're clear. I tested them with a watering can and water drains away just fine. I also checked them with compressed air, and air passes through without any issues.

I removed the interior light and switch panel to have a closer look. The water seems to be coming from directly above the sunroof motor, rather than running in from either side. The foam around the interior light was wet, but nowhere else that I could see.

I also noticed something interesting when looking into the sunroof opening from the outside. With the wind deflector pushed down, there's a gap between the plush-covered edge of the roof opening and the black plastic sunroof cassette underneath. After the car wash, there was still some water sitting in that area. I tried blowing compressed air into the gap and could feel a slight draft inside, right above the motor. When I poured water directly into that area with a watering can, it immediately started dripping inside from above the motor.

So I think I'm getting pretty close to finding the culprit. My guess is that the pressure from the car wash dryers forced water through that gap.

The thing is, I've never noticed this before, and I haven't come across anyone mentioning a similar issue. Has anyone experienced something like this? And if this really is the culprit, what's the proper way to seal it? Would butyl or something similar do the job?

I'd rather avoid lowering the headliner if possible, especially since the leak seems to be coming from such a specific spot.

Any ideas or experiences would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Introducing our 523i 1998. Well looked after 94000miles £1500

I am going to have to modify it because I cant help myself.

Here for sitting in the shadows and looking for tips and tricks.

Just picked up a set of titanium interior trim pieces for my E39!

I originally thought I was buying the regular aluminum trim, but apparently these are a much rarer version. They look absolutely stunning, and honestly, I’d never seen them before.

Does anyone know which package or factory option these originally came with? Were they part of an Individual spec?

Also, does anyone know if they can be repaired? A couple of pieces have some small dents, and I’d love to restore them.

Thanks!

I locked my key in the trunk of my 2002 BMW 530i with the alarm armed via keyfob. After the first AAA tow truck failed, a knowledgable locksmith (also via AAA) got me in the car I 10 minutes. In other reports, I saw that people had drilled a hole into the trunk. This is *NOT* necessary unless the battery is dead too. I couldn’t find the process documented anywhere so I’m posting for the community.

The locksmith used an airbag wedge to create a gap at the top of the passenger side door frame, then used a long reach tool to activate the interior door unlock button on the center console by the shifter. A subtle click confirmed something engaged, and then he pulled the interior handle twice to open the door. From there the interior trunk release worked normally.

TLDR: To get into a locked E39, use a tool to activate the interior unlock button *before* pulling the door handle twice.

Basically I just went on a road trip and had these scans show up.

The first two photos were after I drove about 900km, which I asked ChatGPT about and it said I could try clear the codes and see if they come back. I only found out about the code because I saw the check engine light.

The next 6 showed up after driving back (so after driving maybe around 1000km since the original codes)

The engine doesn’t run badly or anything the cars basically still running mint and there’s no warning lights I just scanned my car to see what’s up.

Also another thing I’m not sure if its related but the codes only showed up under a diagnostics scan not obd2 scan.

Any tips would help.

2002 E39 530i manual btw if that helps

I have the engine and gearbox out of the car, and before putting everything back together, I want to check the condition of the clutch to see if it’s worth replacing.

What is the best way to determine if the clutch is still in good shape?

Does anyone have experience with repairing the MkIV navigation module? Mine has recently started making noise and causing the radio screen to freeze, stay dark (backlight still on), or get stuck in a boot loop (bmw logo displays indefinitely). The radio is still functional, plays music fine and can be controlled through steering wheel controls. I thought I’d try and gather some perspective before I go ahead and pop it open and see what’s going on inside, I have read that these old modules are prone to poor solder joints and individual component failures that take form the radio.

Any info or documentation you can link me to would be appreciated! I just want the screen to work since it’s in really good condition and I was planning on installing BlueBus for Bluetooth+ upgraded functionality until this issue started.

Thanks in advance!

Thought I'd share my latest tinker. I recently disassembled a BMW engine and will later rebuild it but in the mean time I'm putting the crankshaft and other bits into storage for a while and as it'll inevitably get moved around I wanted it protected.

Designed special ends for it to be stored upright and held in the center of the case away from the walls. Decided on holes through the middle to add strength instead of bothering with infill. Roughly cut up some plywood and printed the clips for the sides, didn't need these to be strong, just to hold it together while it mostly sits on a shelf.

Doused every angle of the crank in a coat of Lanolin and entombed it floating in its fancy new sarcophagus.

Printed in petg at 270c. 6x walls, 6x top and bottom, alternating extra wall, 15% infill. Final weight is about 25kg.

I have a 99 540i and the previous owner messed up the hood, I’m looking for Orient blue metallic color in specific. Color code 317. If anyone can help me out that would be much appreciated!

hey everyone, two weeks ago i became the owner of a 2002 530d touring. Never had a diesel before, but i found it strange that even at full throttle, under 2000rpm there is barely any torque, and after 2000-2200 the car spools up and starts flying. Apparently, peak torque should arrive at around 1700rpm, but for me, anything under 2000 feels like driving a 1.6 N/A gas car. I assume the variable geometry system is faulty, i checked it’s rodding, which seems to be working well, isn’t getting stuck anywhere, and springs back into place. Vacum hoses dont feel stiff or cracked to the touch, though i haven’t removed them for a thorough inspection yet. Any recommendations or ideas?

My M54b22 has been running roughly lately and suddenly the check engine light went on and the power was greatly reduced, felt like one or more cylinders stopped firing (which was correct). I have changed the spark plugs already but they weren't the issue, so i tried an OBD-II plug and don't really know what all that means.

Here is the whole Document:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2

DTC report

Selected brand: BMW

============1==============

P0300

Raw code: 0300

ECU: 12

Status:

Steht aus

Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected

Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

============2==============

P1351

Raw code: 1351

ECU: 12

Status:

Bestätigt

Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage

Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off

============3==============

P1345

Raw code: 1345

ECU: 12

Status:

Bestätigt

SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation

Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-Off

============4==============

P1347

Raw code: 1347

ECU: 12

Status:

Bestätigt

Fuel Level Sensor B Range / Performance

Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 3 with Fuel Cut-Off

============5==============

P0300

Raw code: 0300

ECU: 12

Status:

Bestätigt

Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected

Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected