Honda Civic 2017 6 Speed Coupe- 88,000m : My Android Auto hook up broke. It isn't connecting with the cord (only way to connect). There is a short. My dealership quoted me at around $600. So far they have been good to me. The pricey but much better than other places in my area. I feel like this is an exorbitant cost. Is this reasonable? Do I have to remove the dash in order to fix them? I just don't understand why it is so expensive. Would it be easy to do myself?

Would like another opinion. Based off what I have researched and have compared with my old pads these are not as uniform and looks like there was a defect in the lamination of the pad surface.

Before anyone comments: I changed out the rotors, cleaned and greased all the caliper slides and can confirm no caliper is sticking and all rotors produce the same heat. Nothing is rubbing and the brakes are working as they should.

Do I continue to use these pads or swap em out?

Besides the cheeky title, I have a 2008 Ford Focus I'd like to replace my front sway links on and am curious where I can place the jack so that I can put the jack stands at the pinch weld jack points once it's up. The frame is really getting pretty rusty so I don't want to set them just behind the points once ta up, but that means I need to get the jack somewhere else to lift it. Any recommendations?

Same for the rear, I plan on replacing the rear struts afterward and will be facing the same problem.

Thanks in advance!

Service center is saying "Front Control Arm Replacement: During the inspection, we identified that both front lower control arm bushings are torn and cracked."

Is this truly "torn and cracked" and needing of an $1100 replacement? It is at about 63k miles if that helps at all.

Safety First!

Hello, I am making this post in every mechanic subreddit I have found. I just wanted to remind everyone how important saftey is when working on a car. Here are the important things to ensure you do before getting under a car. NEVER get under a car without a jackstand that is supported by just the jack. Then always ensure that the vehicle is in park and parking brake engaged (for manual leave in neutral and engage parking brake). Chock all the wheels that are on the ground to prevent the wheels from moving. If you are pulling on something under the car and the tires move, it could knock it off the jackstand. Then, always work on solid ground, no gravel, no dirt, no slopes. Then as backup, place your jack against a sturdy part of thr car as backup. And one more thing, if you have a tire removed, place it under the car as backup between you and the car if it does fall down. Another important thing is make sure jf something goes wrong, someone is nearby to hear or help you. I say all of this because just a week ago, I was working on a car, and the wheels in the rear slid back as I was prying on a cv axle, and the jackstand slipped, and crushed me, pinning my chest and head against the cross member and concrete. I was about 2 minutes away from just being dead. One of my lungs collapsed, and I broke 2 ribs. I made it out alive and want everyone to know just how important saftey is.

Hey everyone, I need some help figuring out the correct front-right complete strut for my 2009 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L.

My VIN starts with 2T1, so the car was built in Canada.

I’m looking at two options on RockAuto:

• MONROE 472597 Quick-Strut – RockAuto says “USA Built Vehicle” only.
• TOP NOTCH ABS1018R – RockAuto says it fits US, Canada & Mexico-built Corollas.

I would prefer the Monroe because it's a more reputable brand, but I'm not sure if the USA-built restriction means it physically won't fit my Canadian-built Corolla, or if the US and Canadian-built cars use the same strut.

I’ve also seen differences mentioned between 8 mm and 10 mm upper strut-mount studs, especially with Japan-built Corollas, which has made this more confusing.

Does anyone know if Monroe 472597 will fit a Canadian-built (2T1 VIN) 2009 Corolla, or should I stick with the Top Notch ABS1018R that specifically lists Canadian-built cars?

Looking for the front-right/passenger-side complete strut assembly.

Thanks!

Honda Civic 2017 6 speed Coupe 88,000m: I painted letters B R E A T H E over passanger side wheel well with black car paint 5y ago. It was chipping off so I sanded off. I am expecting to paint it. Some areas of just metal showing but the majority is just scratched up top layer. Should I sand it all down to metal and do a primer, color match, seal? Or should I just color match touch up, seal? Im sanding and spot painting some other little rust spots on the car already. Opinions?

I have a 2014 Honda CRV with about 91 thousand miles and recently the car completely stalled out. It started making a loud wirring noise about 5 minutes before it stalled and the mechanic said it was the timing belt. When I got it back the car had an extremely loud knock in the engine and only lasted 4 days before stalling out again in the exact same way and it billowed white smoke out the exhaust. I took it back to the same place and now they are saying it’s the battery and the starter and made no mention of the engine or even repairing it at all. The battery was fine as the car started when being towed it just billowed smoke.I paid $1400 for the repairs and the shop has a 30 day warranty but now they are saying that if I give them 2 thousand more they will trade the title of my car for the title of a 2017 Nissan of unknown model with 200k miles. I was looking to see if I would be able to get a refund on the $1400 and honestly just if any of what they are doing is legal/allowed in the first place. This is my first post so sorry for any issues state is PA and I’m happy to answer any questions.

Pulled old body kit off of a 2005 suburban and has a bit of blackened discoloration. I can patch the holes and but dont know if the blackened portion can be restored or if it needs to just be repainted

Skipped oil changes for "just a little while." That little while was 11 months. The engine didn't care about my schedule.

Here's what I'd tell every car owner who's winging it like I was:

• Check your oil level monthly. Not yearly. Not "when the light comes on." The light coming on is already bad news.

• Rotate your tires every 5,000-7,000 miles. Uneven wear is sneaky and it'll cost you way more than the rotation.

• Replace your air filter regularly. A clogged one tanks your fuel economy and your engine's basically breathing through a dirty sock.

• Flush your coolant on schedule. Overheating is the kind of surprise nobody wants, especially not on a highway in July.

• Keep a maintenance log. Seriously. "I think I changed the brakes like... two years ago? Maybe three?" is not a maintenance plan.

What I'd do differently: track everything from day one. Every oil change, every tire rotation, every weird noise. Future me would've had receipts instead of regrets.

Does anyone actually keep up with all this or are we all just hoping for the best?

After turning the key in the ignition, the car turns on then a slight grinding noise.

It doesn’t always do it, it’s completely random as far as I know

A few weeks ago its battery died and got it replaced immediately.
However, after replacement, all three passenger doors (front passenger, both rear doors) won't open from inside and out. (via key fob or internal unlock switch) Fortunately, the driver's door does opens with manual key unlock.

Any ideas how to get the central locking working again? We tried reinstalling the battery and pressing lock and unlock buttons for "reset" but nothing happens.

I believe I need my 02 censors replaced because my 2010 f150 lariat is throwing the P0430 code-catalyst system efficiency below Threshold (Bank 2) I feel like I could just buy the censors and do it myself. I am familiar with vehicles and repairs but am curious to see if this is overpriced or not.

I have a jeep wrangler Sahara 4xe 2022 and there’s a squeak at low speeds 2-8 mph that’s getting really annoying. It most commonly happens when turning right as well as over bumps but has happened pretty much whenever when in that range of speeds. In the clip I’m going forward at about 5 mph turning right with 4wd on and not touching the brakes at all. My front right wheel got ruffed up a few months ago when I slid into some pretty soft dirt and it took most the force it’s driven completely fine after that though and I checked for damage and found nothing obvious. I can’t remember if the squeak started before or after that event but just incase it’s related I thought I’d throw it in. All advice is welcome pls help.

Here is the video.

Any suggestions on what should do or check on my 2002 Chevy Blazer to fix the parking brake not working anymore? The Parking Brake Pedal still goes down and it'll still slow the truck but won't stick in the on position.

Hi,

I just failed an emission test due to the P0139. Is there a cheap way or place to get this fixed that’ll knock out the engine so I can pass?

Hey guys. Car was stolen and we got it back with the antenna ripped out. Rather than paying out deductible and dealing with insurance I was considering just covering this or replacing the antenna myself, and I was just wondering if anybody had input on how to do it. You can see that they pried some of the roof upward. I haven't purchased a new antenna yet, but I suspect the gasket won't go around the whole bit so it won't create a good seal.

I will admit I haven't yet pulled down the liner in back and looked at the electrical situation yet, but assuming that is fine, is it realistic to hammer this flat? Put something inside the roof from below and flatten it with a rubber hammer or some other tool? Another option I was considering is just covering it in any way. Probably worse for resale value, but we haven't noticed any difference. Right now it is just taped over. I'm fine just covering it, but what the hell do you cover this with in a semi permanent way (in case we or the next owner could want to fix it lol)? Not even sure what to start looking for for something like that.

2024 subaru crosstrek. I haven't found any videos of anyone replacing this exact part for this model, but there was one good video showing a total replacement on a different car and it didn't seem that hard. But I am a car idiot kinda.

Edit: I can get under the headliner, couple pieces fell out but they look like the antenna's parts. The car's wiring side is attached still. It's pretty snug, would be tight for a socket wrench I think, but I could take off some plastic covers on the back and probably get more room. Encouraged, assuming I can flatten it.. A wider gasket would work, but I don't know what that would attach to to cover the hole.

Got a 1981 Trans Am with a stock Gen 3 5.3 LS(2002) swap. I think Bank 2 (cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8) might’ve been dead since I bought it like from 3 months, But recently came to know after I installed obd2 in it. Although it starts instantly and engine doesn’t feel rough.

Here’s what I’ve checked:
-Compression: 155–170 PSI on all 8.
-Spark: All 8 have visible spark.
-Unplugging Bank 2 coils individually makes zero RPM difference. Bank 1 reacts normally.
-Both banks have same injection (as shown in clip)
-Swapped injectors and upstream O2 sensors between banks. Problem stayed on Bank 2.
-All coil/spark plugs ans wires are swapped between banks & also connectors have power.
-Fuses good, basic ground continuity good.
-Bank 2 exhaust manifold stays much cooler.
-Bank 2 fuel trim has shown +53% both at idle rpm(500-600) and at 3000rpm
-Had fuel dilution in the oil, already changed it.
-as for vaccum leak, i heard high rpm remove fuel trim (in our case trim stays on 3000rpm)

Codes: P0306(sometimes P0300, P1860, P1336, P1639.

Adding more stuff:-
//It does not have cat, but two performance mufflers, so no downstream O2 sensors
//I get strong fuel smell on start

WTF could kill an entire bank when there’s compression, spark and fuel? PCM, wiring, injector pulses, ignition timing? What would you check next?

I noticed a small amount of this yellow fluid in my garage and decided to take it to the dealer to be looked at. This is the only time I’ve seen the fluid and it has not continued. The car drives fine. No white smoke at the exhaust.

The service center gave me this report.

Main questions are:

1: can this likely be done cheaper elsewhere?

1. How long could I continue to drive the vehicle, maintaining good oil/fluid levels? I’d like to basically drive this car to the ground as everything else in the car is in good condition and long ago paid for.
   

Thanks for the advice!

I am replacing my passenger cv axle but I hit a roadblock, I am unable to get the axle inside the car all the way. I included a picture of the old axle when it was installed previously to show how the new one should be seated. There’s literally 2 videos online on how to do this and they aren’t super helpful so I am hoping someone can give some advice that will help. The problem is the c clip which is getting in the way

I’m hearing suspension sounds and it worries me.

2013 Chevy equinox ls

Any pad and rotor recommendations. Front and rear

Hello. I was looking at buying a 2012 latitude with 100k on it. Super clean in & out, no rust. Had my shop look over & found the front differential has been cracked or something where they sealed it with epoxy ir something similar. Currently not leaking. Everything running fine. But I'd need to get that replaced, correct?? Also throwing B2215 code. So looked it up sounds like could be minor or could be the whole computer thing? Main question is with those being the 2 issues, how much would I offer off asking price if i decide to? Engine & rest all checked out good. Thanks!