Safety First!

Hello, I am making this post in every mechanic subreddit I have found. I just wanted to remind everyone how important saftey is when working on a car. Here are the important things to ensure you do before getting under a car. NEVER get under a car without a jackstand that is supported by just the jack. Then always ensure that the vehicle is in park and parking brake engaged (for manual leave in neutral and engage parking brake). Chock all the wheels that are on the ground to prevent the wheels from moving. If you are pulling on something under the car and the tires move, it could knock it off the jackstand. Then, always work on solid ground, no gravel, no dirt, no slopes. Then as backup, place your jack against a sturdy part of thr car as backup. And one more thing, if you have a tire removed, place it under the car as backup between you and the car if it does fall down. Another important thing is make sure jf something goes wrong, someone is nearby to hear or help you. I say all of this because just a week ago, I was working on a car, and the wheels in the rear slid back as I was prying on a cv axle, and the jackstand slipped, and crushed me, pinning my chest and head against the cross member and concrete. I was about 2 minutes away from just being dead. One of my lungs collapsed, and I broke 2 ribs. I made it out alive and want everyone to know just how important saftey is.

Pulled old body kit off of a 2005 suburban and has a bit of blackened discoloration. I can patch the holes and but dont know if the blackened portion can be restored or if it needs to just be repainted

Восстановление Cami 1999

Машина: Toyota Cami 1999, мотор HC EJ
Есть некая проблема, не проехал через реку, попал в яму. Машина заглохла.
Машину просушил, в двигателе воды нет, электроника целая (эбу, блоки, предохранители) за исключением искры в цилиндрах.
Кто был в такой ситуации, по пропаданию искры, подскажите как вы исправляли данную ситуацию.

After turning the key in the ignition, the car turns on then a slight grinding noise.

It doesn’t always do it, it’s completely random as far as I know

Skipped oil changes for "just a little while." That little while was 11 months. The engine didn't care about my schedule.

Here's what I'd tell every car owner who's winging it like I was:

• Check your oil level monthly. Not yearly. Not "when the light comes on." The light coming on is already bad news.

• Rotate your tires every 5,000-7,000 miles. Uneven wear is sneaky and it'll cost you way more than the rotation.

• Replace your air filter regularly. A clogged one tanks your fuel economy and your engine's basically breathing through a dirty sock.

• Flush your coolant on schedule. Overheating is the kind of surprise nobody wants, especially not on a highway in July.

• Keep a maintenance log. Seriously. "I think I changed the brakes like... two years ago? Maybe three?" is not a maintenance plan.

What I'd do differently: track everything from day one. Every oil change, every tire rotation, every weird noise. Future me would've had receipts instead of regrets.

Does anyone actually keep up with all this or are we all just hoping for the best?

A few weeks ago its battery died and got it replaced immediately.
However, after replacement, all three passenger doors (front passenger, both rear doors) won't open from inside and out. (via key fob or internal unlock switch) Fortunately, the driver's door does opens with manual key unlock.

Any ideas how to get the central locking working again? We tried reinstalling the battery and pressing lock and unlock buttons for "reset" but nothing happens.

I believe I need my 02 censors replaced because my 2010 f150 lariat is throwing the P0430 code-catalyst system efficiency below Threshold (Bank 2) I feel like I could just buy the censors and do it myself. I am familiar with vehicles and repairs but am curious to see if this is overpriced or not.

I have a jeep wrangler Sahara 4xe 2022 and there’s a squeak at low speeds 2-8 mph that’s getting really annoying. It most commonly happens when turning right as well as over bumps but has happened pretty much whenever when in that range of speeds. In the clip I’m going forward at about 5 mph turning right with 4wd on and not touching the brakes at all. My front right wheel got ruffed up a few months ago when I slid into some pretty soft dirt and it took most the force it’s driven completely fine after that though and I checked for damage and found nothing obvious. I can’t remember if the squeak started before or after that event but just incase it’s related I thought I’d throw it in. All advice is welcome pls help.

Here is the video.

Any suggestions on what should do or check on my 2002 Chevy Blazer to fix the parking brake not working anymore? The Parking Brake Pedal still goes down and it'll still slow the truck but won't stick in the on position.

Hi,

I just failed an emission test due to the P0139. Is there a cheap way or place to get this fixed that’ll knock out the engine so I can pass?

Hey guys. Car was stolen and we got it back with the antenna ripped out. Rather than paying out deductible and dealing with insurance I was considering just covering this or replacing the antenna myself, and I was just wondering if anybody had input on how to do it. You can see that they pried some of the roof upward. I haven't purchased a new antenna yet, but I suspect the gasket won't go around the whole bit so it won't create a good seal.

I will admit I haven't yet pulled down the liner in back and looked at the electrical situation yet, but assuming that is fine, is it realistic to hammer this flat? Put something inside the roof from below and flatten it with a rubber hammer or some other tool? Another option I was considering is just covering it in any way. Probably worse for resale value, but we haven't noticed any difference. Right now it is just taped over. I'm fine just covering it, but what the hell do you cover this with in a semi permanent way (in case we or the next owner could want to fix it lol)? Not even sure what to start looking for for something like that.

2024 subaru crosstrek. I haven't found any videos of anyone replacing this exact part for this model, but there was one good video showing a total replacement on a different car and it didn't seem that hard. But I am a car idiot kinda.

Edit: I can get under the headliner, couple pieces fell out but they look like the antenna's parts. The car's wiring side is attached still. It's pretty snug, would be tight for a socket wrench I think, but I could take off some plastic covers on the back and probably get more room. Encouraged, assuming I can flatten it.. A wider gasket would work, but I don't know what that would attach to to cover the hole.

I noticed a small amount of this yellow fluid in my garage and decided to take it to the dealer to be looked at. This is the only time I’ve seen the fluid and it has not continued. The car drives fine. No white smoke at the exhaust.

The service center gave me this report.

Main questions are:

1: can this likely be done cheaper elsewhere?

1. How long could I continue to drive the vehicle, maintaining good oil/fluid levels? I’d like to basically drive this car to the ground as everything else in the car is in good condition and long ago paid for.
   

Thanks for the advice!

Got a 1981 Trans Am with a stock Gen 3 5.3 LS(2002) swap. I think Bank 2 (cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8) might’ve been dead since I bought it like from 3 months, But recently came to know after I installed obd2 in it. Although it starts instantly and engine doesn’t feel rough.

Here’s what I’ve checked:
-Compression: 155–170 PSI on all 8.
-Spark: All 8 have visible spark.
-Unplugging Bank 2 coils individually makes zero RPM difference. Bank 1 reacts normally.
-Both banks have same injection (as shown in clip)
-Swapped injectors and upstream O2 sensors between banks. Problem stayed on Bank 2.
-All coil/spark plugs ans wires are swapped between banks & also connectors have power.
-Fuses good, basic ground continuity good.
-Bank 2 exhaust manifold stays much cooler.
-Bank 2 fuel trim has shown +53% both at idle rpm(500-600) and at 3000rpm
-Had fuel dilution in the oil, already changed it.
-as for vaccum leak, i heard high rpm remove fuel trim (in our case trim stays on 3000rpm)

Codes: P0306(sometimes P0300, P1860, P1336, P1639.

Adding more stuff:-
//It does not have cat, but two performance mufflers, so no downstream O2 sensors
//I get strong fuel smell on start

WTF could kill an entire bank when there’s compression, spark and fuel? PCM, wiring, injector pulses, ignition timing? What would you check next?

I am replacing my passenger cv axle but I hit a roadblock, I am unable to get the axle inside the car all the way. I included a picture of the old axle when it was installed previously to show how the new one should be seated. There’s literally 2 videos online on how to do this and they aren’t super helpful so I am hoping someone can give some advice that will help. The problem is the c clip which is getting in the way

I’m hearing suspension sounds and it worries me.

2013 Chevy equinox ls

Any pad and rotor recommendations. Front and rear

Hello. I was looking at buying a 2012 latitude with 100k on it. Super clean in & out, no rust. Had my shop look over & found the front differential has been cracked or something where they sealed it with epoxy ir something similar. Currently not leaking. Everything running fine. But I'd need to get that replaced, correct?? Also throwing B2215 code. So looked it up sounds like could be minor or could be the whole computer thing? Main question is with those being the 2 issues, how much would I offer off asking price if i decide to? Engine & rest all checked out good. Thanks!

i drive a volvo xc60, recently my father had a medical emergency while driving and banged my car up pretty good. i have tried to get the mirror back in the bolt my finger points to but it will not snap back in. Am i not using enough strength? or do i need to pry the black flaps more open? Please help i have never seen this type of bolt or hex

replaced the throttle body, but it still won’t idle well. There’s also a broken clip that connects to the throttle body. I’m getting codes P0123 and P0222. Let me know what I should replace or check. I added a video of how the car sounds whenever I turn it on its a automatic Chrysler 200 LX 4-cylinder 2013 I need actaual advice please

• Vehicle Year: 2020
• Make: Hyundai
• Model: Venue
• Engine: 1.6L GAMMA II; DOHC - MPI
• Mileage: 59,427

I posted about this in /r/autorepair a few weeks ago. Originally my father's mechanic recommended just getting the clutch disc replaced. So I purchased it from a Hyundai parts reseller (hyundaipartsdeal.com), and we planned on dropping the car off on Thursday.

My father and I stopped by today while running some errands and the mechanic had a few of his boys with him in the office, and many of them chimed in and said we actually needed more parts. Specifically, they said that along with the clutch disc, we needed:

1. Throw out bearing
2. Pressure plate
3. Pilot bearing
4. Flywheel

I'm pretty sure I've located the Flywheel, but for the other parts nothing is coming up with those names in the search.

The website I'm using seems to have a comprehensive list )of all available parts for this model car, so I imagine the other three parts are in there somewhere, maybe named something else.

Based on the link to the list of parts, or the diagrams I've attached here (which I pulled from the website), would anyone be able to help me locate the throw out bearing, pressure plate, and pilot bearing?

Or if the mechanics were wrong and you have a better idea of what we actually need, that would definitely be helpful.

I have a 03 Escalade with the 6.0 v8. Question... if my catalytic converters are bad will it cause starting issues, a rough idle, and exhaust smell? Only codes that show up are catalyst codes for bank 1 and 2. Sometimes it will throw a multi missfire code. As you know converters are expensive and I've already put 4k into it including a rebuilt engine. Thank you for your inputs.

2008 Dodge caravan SE 3.3. I aven't been able to find a pin out for this connector, does anybody have one, or know where the power door lock wires are on it? This is a pic from a junkyard car, I'm flying out to help my brother with his van this weekend, and it would really help me out! Thanks!

Good afternoon,

I have a weird one. I own an Acura MDX, 2020, base trim. Never had an engine related issue with it and it has about 78K miles. Recently, I visited a new gas station in our town and they had 88 octane gas, which claimed to be over a cleaner and higher quality than the typical 87 I put into it (yes I understand that 91 is the recommended, but the gas cap says 87 minimum). I filled the tank and drove home. None the wiser.

Next day I woke up to every light on, even the parking brake light.

Took it to the shop and they want me to pay 3 grand to replace the entire fuel tank. The dealer tech texted me two words: "bad gas."

I am very confused and frustrated. I filled it with gas that I thought to be of a higher quality, closer to the recommended 91, than usual. It drives FINE and they want to replace the gas tank?

Can somebody help me understand what's going on and what I have to do?

Thank you!

EDIT AND RESOLUTION:
--------
* We have the insurance company compensating us for a full gas tank replacement anyway since we pay for comprehensive, so the dealer is happy and so are we. $0 out of pocket.

* The gas station is at fault for putting flex fuel in a Regular 88 pump (should have been 15% eth not 70%).

* I have heard the cries of the people and will use 91 whenever available, though I DO live in the middle of nowhere.

* I AM NEVER TRYING A NEW GAS STATION OR NEW PUMP AGAIN...and certainly not Regular 88. OLD PUMPS ONLY haha.

Thanks all!