So this is kind of an update on an earlier post in which I review a bunch of mice with respect to my tilted knuckle claw grip. The earlier post was mostly concerned with shape, but will discuss quality concerns also. I had no performance issues with any of these mice, and the software for all is adequate.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/1we6gxl/a_review_of_gaming_mice_for_my_grip/

About me:
I main THE FINALS. Probably a little above average skill level.

Hand size: 19.5 x 10 cm

GLSSWRKS Polarity, with 4-6 Xraypad U9 air 8mm dots

Grip:
My grip seems to fall somewhere between pincer claw and knuckle claw. I favour using my thumb, pinky and ring finger to triangulate around the sensor, as this allows for a wide range of movement in micro corrections (see pic). To support this, the mouse is quite angled in my hand (about 20 degrees in the picture), and therefore the rear of the mouse pushes into my pink/ring knuckle. The primary support is at the pinky side, but larger mice will contact more of this space. This contact point, and my wrist gently resting on the pad provides most of the stability I need for tracking.

Sora V3
This shape feels very locked in for me, and size wise kinda feels like a tuned X2 medium. Due to the larger size this pushes me more towards relaxed claw. The hump is higher than the X2 and pushes nicely into my ring knuckle, and my fingers fall naturally into a comfortable position around the sensor. The sides have a mild taper and angle, so feel much less flat than the X2. The scroll wheel feels a little further forward that I would like given how relaxed my grip is here, though this is a minor complaint. Side buttons are well positioned for my thumb. Really a GOATed shape for me at what I consider a medium size.

Scroll wheel is really nice, even forward and backward. Quite light. No complaints about side buttons, and the main clicks feel great. Super snappy and spammable. idk if SPDT is a gimmick, but they do feel very responsive. Coating feels great, a bit rubbery, no problems.

On glass with 6 U9 air 8mm dots this thing is loud. The base is super thin and so the mouse echos, and seems much more sensitive to scratching and dust than other mice (the X2 med and mini are SO MUCH quieter). This was super frustrating at the start and really put me off using it. Reducing the dot count to 4 makes it a lot more playable. On cloth this is not an issue.

In terms of shell build, it feels like the cheapest premium mouse I have. Quite a lot of flex and just doesn't feel solid. For me I'd rather they pushed past the 40g weight a bit to make it more solid.

Overall a pretty easy recommend if you like the shape. If you're hard on your mice or particularly sensitive to noise, probably not for you.

CRDRAKO KO-ONE
Very similar in size and feel to the X2H, with a less pronounced rear hump, pushing me into a more aggressive claw vs the X2H which is more relaxed. This makes the sides feel a bit more narrow, though I don't think they are. My fingers end up sitting quite low on the sides, almost touching the pad which I don't get with the X2H. Feels very natural to hold, but small (not a bad thing). Very stable in the hand for such a small mouse.

Great scroll wheel, nice even steps, quite soft. Main clicks are very light and quiet, not dissimilar to omron opticals. Again the SPDT clicks feel super responsive. Side buttons are the only real complaint, they're tiny. The rear click is recessed and is a bit of a reach for my thumb. Coating is nice and rubbery, no complaints.

No complaints on build. Pleasingly quiet on glass, feels sturdy and stable.

Recommend for those who want something with a little less booty than the X2H mini.

Pulsar Tenz 2.0 mini
I think this is my perfect shape. Despite what you might think from Eloshapes, the Tenz feels significantly wider than the KO-ONE. The hump is a bit higher and perfectly pushes into the ring finger knuckle. Finger position on the sides is great and feels very locked in. Scroll wheel position is perfect. It feels so good in the hand. Like a ying that has had the length compressed by a few mm.

Scroll wheel has good steps, but is a little more rattly than I'd like or maybe it's just I can feel vibrations through the shell. Side button shape and actuation are flawless. I'm not in love with the main clicks, and I'm not quite sure why. They are notably stiffer and louder than other pulsar mice but are still well implemented and are spammable. I think they're overly tactile, and I can kind of feel their vibration through the shell. It's a small complaint but does reduce my enjoyment of the mouse. I don't notice it in game, but between matches or doing other stuff it makes me want to grab a different mouse.

Otherwise the build is excellent as it typical of pulsar mice. Feels very solid and stable. Great coating. Weight and balance are perfect, glad to see we're getting some lighter pro series mice. If anyone knows of a mod to reduce vibrations pls let me know :)

I don't usually comment on battery because I don't really care, but I get a lot more time out of this than the X2 mini.

Overall I'd recommend this to any other small mice enjoyers who claw grip. Easily the best shape for me that I've tried. So close to perfection.

info - https://www.bilibili.com/opus/1260019765468987477

source - https://www.bilibili.com/opus/1259720109876838405

source - https://www.bilibili.com/opus/1260003616387760131

Just want to share how good it feels to find the right shape...

Short mouse history:
Logitech Superlight - It was ok, but I never felt 100% comfortable with it... Eventually the mouse hit the wall after pissing me off with double clicks and creaking sound.
Zowie EC3-C - Decided to try an ergo mouse. Definitely not my shape. I developed a ring finger pain eventually. Good mouse tho.
WLMouse Beast x mini pro - For some unknown reason I thought the smaller mouse the better... (19x10cm palm) It was quite the opposite. My ring finger pain went even more severe and my aim was shaky as never before.

and finally...
Pulsar X2H Crazylight Medium - this mouse is advertised as a claw grip shape. Meanwhile my grip was fingertip (sort of) my whole life... and i bought it anyway because I was curious. At first I tried to hold it with my usual grip and it was awful. Another wasted mouse I thought to myself. But then I switched to a palm grip and holy shit.. it feels so good. My palm envelops its hump perfectly. The finger tension and pain are gone. The aim feels way more stable and crispier. Flicks are effortless and without any jitter. Bro, I don't even want to open kovaaks anymore because I finally can enjoy the game without those vexing thoughts "damn, i died again to this bot, my aim is so dogwater. i have to train more...".
Not a fan of its clicks tho, they are slightly heavier than zowie mouse had.

Thanks for coming to my ted talks. Hope everyone will eventually find his perfect shape :)

Ive been on the x3 superstrike for a week and i just cant with the filling shape of the mouse, it just has no maneuverability. Logitech made a way back onto my desk after years with the 2c it had the perfect compact size with all the other aspects of logitech that were good! Ive been wanting to try HITS with how much hype it seems to have but i CANNOT get used to this shape and heaviness. so PLS make a 2c version with HITS!

I just ordered an ATK A9 Plus 2.0 but I received the 3.0 version, which is not advertised in any of the variant of this model. It's not even an option from where I ordered it.

From the box, all the way to the papers inside the box and information under the mouse, it says that the model is "A9 Plus 3.0."

Has anybody here received anything like this?

I live here in Asia (Philippines) and I would like to share to you how I mod this mouse, judging by people's experiece with XS-1 sensor, Pulsar dont have a good reputation when it comes to battery of their mice.

I modded my mice already future-proofing it.

Basic Info:

A.) This mice uses a JST 1.00mm battery connector, as opposed to older gen Pulsar that uses a 1.50mm JST

B.) My mice has no problems whatsoever, I just decided to increase its battery capacity like I usually do on my other mice.

C.) This is my first ever Pulsar mice , why did I bought it ? bcos of its misty-blue/sky blue color , we all know most mainstream brand mice (logitech/razer) does not release a Blue mouse

D.) This mice is powered by XS2 sensor with 54L series MCU, the 54L series is known to be VERY battery efficient so the stock 300mAh battery is already overkill for its spec. (im practically telling you, modding your mice is already not needed 😆)

E.) The battery polarity is REVERSED its BLACK/YELLOW/RED or Black(Ground) / Yellow (thermometer/sensor) / Red (positive) ; most after market battery in the market with JST 1.00mm came with a different polarity JST (if you dont understand this "E" I suggest you refrain from modding your mouse for any damage)

F.) VERY IMPORTANT !!! The flex cable or side button has a sensor, IF YOU BREAK that flex cable, youll break the entire mouse. , its impossible to make the mice work without the side button attached.

G.) The battery compartment for 600mAh is too small and might require some cutting in order to fit the new battery / if you dont want to do cutting mod, make sure to buy the FAT TYPE battery , my battery is the "FLAT" type 600mAh

Modding procedure:

1.) AFTER youve successfully followed the battery polarity there is a high chance that the mice WONT read/accept the new battery youve just inserted.

2.) as mentioned in G.) the battery I upgraded required some cutting in order for it to fit, be sure to have "gundam" sized pliers/nippers so you can cut thru the base of the shell without doing major damage.

3.) in order for your mice to accept the new battery, make sure to connect your mice VIA the SOFTWARE web based tool (bibimbap) , insert/unplugged the JST connector to the PCB until it FINALLY accepts the new battery. (it took me a good 10mins doing this over and over again)

4.) You might need a NEW MOUSE FEET/SKATES as the stock skates is already unuseable after disassembly. mouse feet area accepts dot skates and you have a wide surface area to put your dot skates.

5.) it took me roughly 2 hours of charging WHILE THE BATTERY IS CONNECTED TO THE SOFTWARE, till I finally received the BLUE RGB or it means fully charged !!! this mice has 2 rgb colors BLUE(fully charged) ; RED(charging)

6.) Continuation of 5.) , despite the mice being at 99% just wait for it patiently till it fully charge.

7.) CAUTION(1) DO NOT USE FAST CHARGERS OR QUICK CHARGERS, just use a regular charger as not to break or force power into the new battery

8.) CAUTION(2) the Side button PCB is programmed with the main PCB, its possible that your mice wont work if you damaged the side button PCB; right after inserting the new battery make sure to insert the side button PCB.

9.) if youre doing some cutting to fit the new battery, make sure that your PCB board is free from any debris from the plastics youve cut. as it "may" damage your mice in the future

10.) prepare basic tools such as Quick drying adhesive/glue, double sided tape, philips screw(small), tweezers and . . . A LOT OF PATIENTS.

11.) I ordered extra JST connectors 1.00mm/1.25mm/1.5mm this mice uses the 1.00mm so its very reparable compared to other pulsar mice that uses the 1.50mm JST, you might damage the JST connector while reversing the battery polarity so the extra JST is needed just in case.

12.) to get a much more accurate reading, drain the new battery you just inserted so youll have the full 600mAh capacity reading (I never bothered doing this, but I just gave this additional info for your reference)

13.) I would suggest you have atleast the basics of electronics PCB board when modding ANY KIND of mouse. as you might damage the mice itself especially the flex cable which is VERY VERY fragile.

14.) I know people wont mod their brand new mouse 🤣 but atleast I already laid out all the infos you might need in the future.

15.) READ EVERY POINTS I just mentioned in attempting to mod your mice, remember consider your warranty void once you removed the stock feet of your mice

16.) If you live here in the PHILIPPINES, I ordered the battery via SHOPPEE online app SHOPEE 600mAh Battery 3pin JST 1.00mm

17.) I am not liable whatsoever to any damage you might incur to modding your brand new 2026 Tenz mouse 😆

Verified x2f glazer here, wanted to give my thoughts after a quick 30 minutes in DM with the crazylight, and I have to say regardless of the weight reduction, the crazylight is the better mouse.

The coating is improved, it has much more of a grip to it. I don't feel the need to have grips installed, and I did have some for a time on the v1.

The main clicks are a bit more stiff, but I prefer that. They have a nice snap to them and are enjoyable to use ingame. almost no pre and a bit of post travel, but not anything I really notice. No side to side wobble on the clicks either. And as far as I can tell, the indents on each version are the same. Side buttons are nearly identical.

Scroll wheel feels more tactile and nicer to use. I wanna say same amt of steps but cba to actually check.

Balancing is still fine, in line with the sensor.

The dongle is neat. I still wish with these dongles with buttons for switching settings, that there was a way to limit the amount of polling rates you cycle through. I only use 2, 500 for power saving/browsing, 2k for gaming. I guess a way around it is to set up profiles to alternate polling rates and cycle through that, but I haven't set it up yet.

The power switch is gone on the CL in favor of a press to hold power/DPI combo button on the bottom. I don't mind it but I definitely would have preferred a switch. Had to save the 1.2g I guess.

I think it's worth the upgrade if you have the v1 and put a lot of time into it like I did.

I ordered this like a year ago lol. Original ETA was like April. I don’t even own a PC anymore, sold it after my cancer diagnosis. It does feel very nice though, might swing by a friends house to test it out before getting rid of it

Hi everyone! I am currently looking to upgrade from my original logitech G pro superlight(I’ve tried recently the ATK A9 Air+) and I feel is not the mouse for me, but can’t decide as the title shows.

I use a Claw/Relaxed Claw grip and sometimes/often my pinky finger grazes the mousepad.i mainly play FPS games.

My Right hand dimensions are as follows:
-Length: ~19.5cm
-Width: ~9cm

Would appreciate any insight or advice.

It is currently being sold on Taobao in China.

The price is ¥1399.

The Taobao sales page title is "雷蛇宝可梦30周年联名Pixel Art款毒蝰V4Pro电脑无线游戏鼠标礼物".

I'm looking for people to try hrtz, a free, open-source app I wrote to replace Zaopin's Mouse Drive, and tell me what works.

It's tested on the Z1 PRO MAX with the 8K receiver. The Z1 PRO, Z2, Z2 mini, Z2 MAX and Z2 mini MAX speak the same protocol and should work, but I don't own them, so those are the testers I need most. Install it, try things, and click Send a report in Settings: it opens a short form with your mouse and version already filled in. hrtz backs your mouse up before it changes anything.

What it does:

Settings

• DPI stages you can type or drag, each with its own colour, polling up to 8,000 Hz, lift-off distance, sensor mode, motion sync, angle snapping, ripple control, click debounce
• every button: clicks, DPI, scroll, media keys, key combos, rapid fire, hold-for-DPI (macros aren't editable yet)
• the four onboard profiles, named, and switched by themselves when a game comes into focus
• the sleep timer Mouse Drive doesn't offer, 10 s to 2 min (Z1 PRO MAX)

Battery

• level history over a day, week or month, time left at your polling rate, battery health and charge cycles
• a battery saver that lowers the polling rate when you're low, and a low-battery alert
• the level in the tray icon

In game

• a HUD with battery, polling rate, DPI and profile at the edge of the screen, in its own window (nothing injected into the game)
• a pop-up when you change DPI or profile

Lab

• a connection check that finds the polling rate your PC actually keeps up with
• tracking, lift-off and DPI accuracy checks on your own pad (with a one-click DPI correction)
• double clicks counted in the background, to catch a switch going bad, and a scroll wheel check
• a map of where your mouse travels on the pad in each game, and a check of Windows' pointer settings

Everything else

• backups of the mouse's settings, saved automatically before a restore or factory reset, with undo
• pairing a mouse to its receiver
• updates in the background, from GitHub

Free and AGPL, no account, no telemetry. Windows will warn about the installer because it isn't code-signed yet. Quit Zaopin's app before you start.

https://github.com/azaek/hrtz

Not affiliated with Zaopin.

I’ve been using a glorious model O for the past three years ish, currently for my upgrade I’m thinking of Logitech superstrike x3 or Razer Basilisk v4 pro, but idk which one I should ultimately buy.

Hey guys, I recently got a WLMouse Beast X Pro and I’m looking for some new skates.
I originally wanted to get Tiger ICE V2 full-size skates, but I can only find them for the regular Beast X. Even though both mice have the same dimensions, I’ve seen someone mention that the skates don’t fit the Pro properly.
So I’m thinking about trying dot skates instead.
I’m currently using Obsidian red dots, but the glide feels kinda weird, almost like the mouse is floating, and I struggle to stop my flicks consistently.
I also used UltraGlide RS2 dots on my previous Sora V2, and somehow my flicks felt better than with the Obsidian dots, even though the RS2 was still a bit too fast for me.
I’m using an Artisan Hayate Otsu Soft and mainly play Valorant (800 DPI, 0.4 sens).
I’m considering Jade dots, Tiger ICE V2 dots, or maybe something else. I’m still pretty new to aftermarket skates, so I’d love to hear your experiences.
What dot skates would you recommend if I want smooth tracking but still enough control to stop my flicks?
Also, has anyone actually tried Tiger ICE V2 full-size skates on the Beast X Pro? Do they fit?
Thanks!

Hey guys

Richard here from Fantech. some of you might remember us from FantechJosh’s posts, he’s moved on and honestly we’ve been pretty quiet here since then. so yeah, trying to fix that and start fresh.

you probably know us from stuff like the Aria. and yeah some of you probably had problems with us too. both are totally welcome here

I'm mostly here to listen and discuss. good feedback, bad feedback, whatever, i'll bring it back to the product team

for warranty stuff we’ve got a support team that handles it. but if you’re stuck just tag me and i’ll try to help.

questions, complaints, ideas, just drop em below. I'll reply as much as I can, letsgoo

In my opinion, the GPX2 isn't really all that. Somehow after using it for awhile I developed a fingertip grip, and now palm grip just feels wrong(I must've acheived true basement dewller levels". I don't know how this happened especially when considering it's a palm grip mouse. I've opened it up a couple times to put some silent switches in, and it is not an easy job. All that aside, as a mouse it does the job pretty solidly I guess. Really good sensor and stuff but it's kinda big in my goblin ahh hands. The shpae really isn't too ideal really. My brother has a Pulsar X2V2 mini, even though he uses palm grip and only plays minecraft. I asked to trade with him but thats never happening. So next year I might sell my GPX2 and buy a Tenz Mini 2.0 Idk, the only major downside I see in it is that you can't buy mechanical switch replacement boards.

Recently I finally decided to buy a new mouse, switching from atk duckbill and scyrox v6 to something better. And I remembered about egg, now I'm thinking which op1 i should i buy. I stopped on op1 8k v2. Does raw input worth it? What difference does it have?

Also I'll heavily modify it, 100% flexcord, bottom

I can adapt to the shape but it's far away for my taste.. I wish one day we can see this technology on a Logitech g903.. this mouse shape was really on point for me, imagine it at 60g+- with this new tech and sensor.. would be GREAT.

I honestly don't know what Logitech is doing with its mice lineup. Maybe they're waiting for competitors like Razer to introduce their next-generation technologies before finally refreshing their entire lineup with similar features to stay competitive?

(SL2 is there just for size reference)

CL is better on paper (lighter, better click, lower price)

But there is something about SL 2c’s shape that I just can’t let go. I dont know if it is just smaller front width or the centered hump, but SL 2C shape is really hard to beat.

Btw, I never really liked the original SL shape probably because my had is too small for it