Gaming setup Dell G15 ryzen edition Ryzen 5600H 16 GB Ram Rtx 3050 4GB Lg ultragear Monitor Keyboard - Evofox katana X2 tkl wireless Mouse - Cosmic byte helios tri mode

Just got the above PC and could do with upgrading my current monitor.

Looking for a 27” 1440p/4k 180hz+ monitor ideally less than £300. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Just finished this video on the M27P6S. I think it has a couple of quirks but overall it is really impressive, hopefully a firmware update will iron out the issues with the OSD settings.

I clean WOLED before and it is very hard to clean. But this one is very easy just use distilled water and lint free cloth and you are good to go.

Why is it that these are so much more expensive than 27” and is it possible to find dual 24” for less than $200 each? - Coming from dual 25” 1080p, should i just go for 1440p?

This is the Acer monitor I have, the XV280K-B (4K, 60 Hz, IPS):

https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/7d502176

And this is the other Acer I saw a review from:
- The Nitro XV3, ou XV325QK V3bmiipprx, I think it's a mini-LED, also 4K, but 32 and with a better refresh rate.

I'll post the other user's review and comment on my own Acer.

REVIEW:

Unironically the worst monitor i have ever bought. Ive always been an acer fan and wanted to give them a chance. At 400 this is too good to be true. Asus is selling their comperable monitor for 1200 for a reason.

It fails to turn on with my pc, every time. Tried a million bios settings, monitor settings, even a bios update. Only way to turn it on is to have it as a rider secondary display to a real monitor. Setup: Steel legend x299 mb with 3080ti.

it started making snap crackle and pop electrical sounds after turning on hdr in windows. You can see the display flicker.

The panel itself is fine. Its not an oled but it does blacks better than a normal ips (the star "glow" is real) and the micro led enables consistent lighting across the panel.

If someone at acer has any questions please feel free to reach out. Id love to make a panel like this work...

Unfortunatly totally unusable. I would pass

My XV280K-B has a similar issue, which I'll try to describe here.

If you also have an Acer, tell me if this is happening with you, too. This is a message I sent elsewhere:

I'm trying to determine the root cause of a very strange problem that has been happening for quite some time. It has occurred multiple times over the years, even after reinstalling Windows from scratch, so I don't believe this is related to Windows corruption, malware, or NVIDIA drivers.

PC Specs

Operating System: Windows 11

BitLocker: Enabled (PIN required at every boot)

Motherboard: MSI Z590-A Pro (latest BIOS installed)

CPU: Intel Core i5-11400

GPU: ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 3060 O12G V2

Primary SSD (C : WD_BLACK SN850X (Model: WDS200T2X0E-00BCA0)

Secondary SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 4 TB

RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666 (2 × 16 GB, CMK32GX4M2A2666C16)

Monitor: Acer XV280K-B (28", 3840×2160 @ 60 Hz)

Connection: HDMI (connected to HDMI 1 on the monitor)

Monitor Input: Fixed to HDMI 1 (Auto Source is OFF)

++++++++

The problem

++++++++

Whenever there is a complete power outage in my neighborhood, and the electricity comes back, the PC powers on normally.

However, the monitor remains completely black.

I never see:

MSI logo

UEFI/BIOS

BitLocker PIN screen

Windows loading screen

The monitor simply stays black.

The strange part is that I know the PC is actually running.

Since BitLocker is configured with a PIN, I type my PIN completely "blind" while the screen is still black.

A few seconds later, Windows continues booting and suddenly the monitor comes to life and displays the Windows login screen normally.

So the PC never actually freezes.

It is only the video output that is missing before Windows initializes.

++++++++

Additional observations

++++++++

Even if I:

turn the power strip OFF,

wait a few seconds,

turn it back ON,

the problem remains exactly the same.

The only way to continue is to type the BitLocker PIN without seeing anything.

This is NOT caused by NVIDIA drivers

I already have:

++++++++

updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers;

completely removed all drivers using DDU in Safe Mode;

reinstalled them from scratch.

++++++++

The behavior never changed.

++++++++

This is NOT caused by Windows

++++++++

I have experienced this even during a completely fresh Windows installation.

At one point, after formatting my SSDs, I couldn't even see the Windows Setup screen on this monitor.

To install Windows, I had to connect the PC to a TV through HDMI.

The TV immediately displayed the installer.

That means the problem existed before Windows was installed.

++++++++

BIOS

++++++++

The motherboard is running the latest available BIOS from MSI.

++++++++

Monitor settings

The monitor is configured as follows:

Auto Source: OFF

Input: HDMI 1 (fixed manually)

++++++++

So it is not searching for different inputs.

++++++++

One interesting observation

++++++++

It almost seems as if, after restoring power to the power strip, I must press the PC's power button immediately.

If too much time passes after the monitor receives power, I often end up with the black screen before BitLocker again.

I'm not completely sure whether this timing is actually related, but I've noticed this behavior more than once.

++++++++

What I suspect

++++++++

Since this also happened:

before Windows was installed;

before NVIDIA drivers existed;

before Windows Setup even appeared;

I suspect this may be related to:

++++++++

HDMI initialization during UEFI/POST;

EDID detection;

monitor firmware;

GPU firmware;

or some incompatibility between the Acer XV280K-B and the MSI Z590-A Pro/RTX 3060 during a cold boot after a complete AC power loss.

++++++++

Has anyone experienced something similar?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Note: As far as I know, this monitor does not update any firmware.

-----
So, is this an amazing coincidence, that another person with a totally different ACER monitor had a similar problem, or (what I am hinting at) ACER and their monitors suck and are unreliable, and this is somehow to be expected?

When I was searching for a new 4K IPS 32 monitor, I came across the Nitro XV3 and the ASUS XG32UCG, which is more expensive than the ACER, which apparently is a mini-LED with a better HDR. But if my current issue isn't something isolated, I don't think I can trust Acer ever again.

Hey, I have a Xiaomi Mi 2K Gaming Monitor 27”, which uses a 75 × 75 mm VESA mount. My monitor arm supports both 75 × 75 mm and 100 × 100 mm VESA patterns, but the mounting plate doesn’t fit into the recessed area on the back of the monitor.
Is there any way to mount it safely without buying a new arm? I’d really appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!

I’ve decided for my needs, a mini-LED would be optimal. I’ve been bouncing around idea of Tandem WOLED, Tandem QD-OLED, and now mini-LED. Since I do work from home and do a lot of CAD and document reading, I figure I need something that will not burn in.

Since I’ve already got a 27”, I’d like to add another for a multi monitor setup. I think a 4K monitor would work with my 5070TI, but would like one that has a 1080p dual mode. I’d also be ok with a native 1440p monitor, that’s what I have and run games at.

So, help me please. There are IPS, VA, QLED VA, etc. I assumed a qled would be best for visual quality. My budget is $800.

its hiding the mouse and idk why but can someone lmk if im just being dumb? i know bezels exist but the left side doesnt do this

Hi everyone!

I found a way to access the engineering menu on my TCL 34R83Q monitor. I asked an engineer and tech blogger on Boosty about it, and here's what he replied:

"Hi. I don't remember the exact procedure, of course, but the typical way to access engineering menus is to hold the joystick in a certain direction (up, center, or down), usually the direction used to open the regular menu.

Without releasing the joystick, unplug the power and plug it back in. Keep holding the joystick until the monitor boots up, then open the menu. An F should appear in the upper-left corner. Simply select it using the joystick. TCL uses exactly the same method on all its monitors. I don't remember which direction you need to hold, but you can try all the options in about 10 minutes."

I'd like to invite everyone to share photos of the engineering menus on their TCL 34R83Q monitors in this thread.

I'd also like to figure out which of the displayed values corresponds to the firmware version.

Most interesting thing here is the unusal amount of dimming zones.

New Gen backlights have 9216 LEDs so this does not fit in any configuration. Its an entirely different module and "5184 MiniLEDs" prabably refers to a 1 zone per 1 LED approach.

Hi there!

I hope i haven’t bothered you guys too much yet.

I’m almost certainly going to return my oled, it’s a Samsung odyssey and it just kind of makes my eyes hurt when gaming and I don’t like the way it looks.

Is a good 500€ IPS panel in any way worse then an old tn gaming panel?

What are the closest monitors to an old very good TN monitor?

I’ve seen this on Amazon and I wanted to check if it’s a typo?

The description states Rapid IPS whereas the description (bottom of image) states Rapid VA.

The ASIN on google is pulling up images 274URDFW (third image)

Also,

Is this a good deal?

Hey everyone, I have a question.

I’ve been thinking about getting a new monitor for a while now. I currently have an AOC 1080p 240Hz monitor, which I’ve been really happy with. I’ve had it for about two or three years, and it was my first gaming monitor.

Since GTA 6 is coming out, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade. There’s a German online store that currently has some pretty good deals, and I’ve found two monitors that I’m considering. However, I’ve seen a lot of positive reviews for both, but also some negative ones, so I’m not really sure which one to go for.

I’m currently deciding between a 27-inch 4K IPS monitor and a 1440p OLED monitor.

The first one is the ASUS XG27UCS, which is a 27-inch 4K IPS monitor.

The second one, which I’m actually leaning towards, is the LG UltraGear 27GX704A-B. It’s a 1440p OLED monitor, and it looks pretty great to me. However, I haven’t been able to find that many reviews about it. Some people say it uses an older panel, but that it’s still pretty good. I’m just not sure what to make of that.

One of my main concerns is GTA 6. I’ve read that 30 FPS can feel particularly bad on OLED monitors, and since GTA 6 is expected to run at 30 FPS on consoles, I’m wondering whether I should go for the 4K IPS monitor instead.

I also have a really good 4K Samsung OLED TV, and I’ve never really had any issues playing games at 30 FPS on it. I can definitely notice the difference between 30 and 60 FPS, especially when a game starts feeling less smooth, but it has never bothered me that much.

I’m worried that buying an OLED monitor might somehow make the experience at 30 FPS worse, though. I play quite a lot of games at 30 FPS because I generally prefer better graphics and resolution over higher frame rates.

So, I’d really appreciate some advice from people who have experience with either of these monitors. Are they good options? Would you recommend one over the other? And is the whole thing about 30 FPS feeling worse on OLED actually true, or is it exaggerated?

The deal is only available until the end of today, so I would need to order one pretty soon.

The LG OLED is currently reduced from €600 to €293, while the ASUS 4K IPS costs €350. So the LG is significantly cheaper, but the ASUS offers 4K resolution at the cost of not having an OLED panel.

What would you guys do in my situation? I’d really appreciate any advice!

(Also, if you know of any other good, affordable 4K monitors, please let me know! If neither of these two is really worth it, I’d be happy to consider some other options.)

my monitor (which is pretty old; 5-10 years) displays colors weirdly. i know it wasn't like that before, but a while ago i started noticing that while watching movies, in certain lighting, the characters lips look extremely pink. the thing that made me realize theres really something wrong is when i looked at one of my fav bands album cover (photos: 1. how it should look like 2. how it displays on my monitor). the issue is mostly with pink, but i notice that it slightly distorts green too. is there a way i could fix it? im not a professional with computers so i dont know what might be causing it.

Hello evervone. Im looking at monitor options, and im deciding between a mini led ips or a mini led VA (27 inch flat). I plav lots of online games, but I also like having good quality images for single player games/anime/movies I watch. which is why im torn. I dont have the budgetfor an OLED+the price of oled monitors in my country is unreasonable. and I cant find a definitive answer for which type of monitor I should buy. I play single player games and watch anime/movies in dark rooms. and i use a ps5 for gaming. Any help would be much appreciated!

Hey guys I am looking for a 4K Monitor for my PS5 and saw this one. I don’t know anything about Monitors but I don’t want to spend a lot. Would you get this?

​​​My Acer monitor suddenly started displaying this severe visual glitch today.

​Here is some background and what I've tested so far:

​For about a month, I had a few minor horizontal lines around the middle/top area, but they were very faint and didn't bother me much.

​Last night, before turning it off, those exact same horizontal lines were still the only issue.

​But when I turned it on this morning, it suddenly looked like this (massive vertical color bars ).

​I already swapped the cables (HDMI/DP) and changed the ports on my PC

​I suspect it's a panel failure due to the history of those lines, but I wanted to ask here just to be sure. Is this a classic panel/COF failure, or could it be something else?