Hi, I need some advice from the community.
I recently finished restoring my Series 3, but I've been told it's smoking too much.
I tried to find someone to adjust the fuel pump, but I couldn't find anyone near me.
Do you think it's getting too much diesel?
Do you have any suggestions for fixing the problem?
Thanks

Our 08 Sport HSE has about 120k miles on it and has been a pretty great vehicle with no major issues until now. A few months ago while driving on a gravel road, I got warnings on the dash saying "Transmission Fault," "DSC Fault," "Suspension Fault," and the Brake warning and stability lights flashed amber. It was still driving fine so when I got to a stop sign, I just turned it off and back on, faults never came back and everything has been fine until recently. Recently, it's been consistently coming on while driving. I've noticed you can almost trigger it by hitting the brakes, but with how much you have to be on and off the brake during startup, I haven't 100% confirmed that.

Last week I checked the easy stuff first, battery was charged, alternator was charging, fuses all looked fine. I checked for codes while the dash was blank with no warnings or anything and it gave me a fault code of P0504. I got a new brake switch and swapped it in after reading that combination of codes could be caused by seemingly anything and sure enough the codes went away for a few days, but did eventually come back.

So that brings me here. I'm back at square one and I'm curious as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. It reads like there's an issue somewhere that's just making those systems freak out and throw fault codes instead of those systems *actually* being faulty, but I'm not sure how to figure out where that issue is. I've noticed when doing the brakes that the wear sensor doesn't give me a ton of confidence in how it's mounted in the caliper and seems like it could be pretty fragile so i can check that again, but beyond that I'm not really sure where to go next so any advice is helpful :)

I have a 1968 series 2a Land Rover and curious if it’s possible to even get on the road since I’m 18 and have no experience in cars

It got passed down to me after my dad died

2013 Range Rover L405 HSE Steering Locks Up Turning Right After Startup — Replaced Steering Rack TWICE, Same Problem!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some advice from anyone familiar with the 2013 Range Rover L405 and its electric power steering system. I’m honestly running out of ideas and would really appreciate any help before I spend more money replacing parts that may not be the actual problem.

Vehicle:
2013 Range Rover L405 HSE 5.0L V8
Approximately 91,000 miles
Steering rack part number: LR058395

The problem:
When I start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel to the right, the steering gets tight and seems to bind at a certain point. If I apply a little more force, it suddenly releases, and the steering feels normal again. However, multiple warning lights come on across the dashboard, and several fault codes are stored.

If I turn the vehicle off and restart it, the warning lights go away temporarily, but the same steering issue returns when I turn right again.

Here’s what makes this especially frustrating:
I purchased and installed TWO Bosch steering racks with part number LR058395 from RockAuto. The original rack had a different issue: vibration over bumps, but it did NOT have this steering lock-up problem.
After replacing the original rack, the new steering issue appeared, and the second replacement rack did exactly the same thing.

Both replacement racks were installed and programmed, but the problem remains.

My mechanic also noticed that the voltage drops when the steering reaches the point where it binds while turning right.

Another mechanic suggested replacing the main battery because it may be weak. Occasionally, the starter also seems to struggle or hesitate for a few seconds when starting the vehicle.

I’m wondering whether this could be a weak battery, a bad ground, a wiring issue, a power supply problem to the electric power steering system, a steering angle sensor/calibration issue, or a mechanical problem elsewhere in the steering column or front suspension.

Fault codes from the diagnostic scan include:
C1B00-85 — Steering Angle Sensor: Signal Above Allowable Range
U0428-08 — PSCM: Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0428-00 — Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0428-68 — Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0001-81 — High Speed CAN Communication Bus: Invalid Serial Data Received

There are also other communication-related codes in the scan.

I understand that some of these codes could be secondary faults caused by another issue, but I’m not sure which ones are the root cause.

My questions:
Has anyone experienced this exact steering behavior on an L405?

Could a weak main battery or a bad ground cause the steering to bind at one specific point and trigger all these codes?

Since two replacement racks behave exactly the same way, should I be looking at the steering column/intermediate shaft, wiring, grounds, or steering angle sensor instead?

Is there a known issue with the power supply or wiring to the electric power steering rack on these vehicles?

What diagnostic tests would you perform before replacing anything else?

I’ve already spent thousands of dollars on repairs, including the steering racks, and I really want to identify the actual cause rather than continue throwing parts at the vehicle.

Any advice from someone who has diagnosed this issue before would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

Thinking of getting the new defender 110 but don’t known if it fits. Does the antenna count in the measurement of 1,967 mm?

I've received an email invitation to this but I'm wondering if it's a real thing?

This one's a head scratcher for me anyway. Our newly acquired 2015 LR4 HSE Lux with the SCV6 and 72K mi is experiencing near overheating (or so indicated on the dash) at almost exactly 10 minutes after starting and running on the highway, then returns to normal after about 20 seconds. There are no leaks in crossovers, water pump or loss of coolant. Thermostat, coolant, fan clutch wiring, and intake air sensor were replaced at 71K. After a bit of googling I ran through the recommended burp procedure twice but the temp still sneaks up to just below the H before retreating back to the midpoint. Once it's done it it will reliably run at normal until the next cold start, warmup and 10min in it runs the scare routine again. I wouldn't be so paranoid, based on the service history and what I can see, if it weren't for the catastrophic nature of overheating events with this engine. Any ideas? Thanks, in advance.

Hey everyone. I bought a 2020 Defender HSE with the i6 with 52000 miles. Only 2000 miles into my ownership the timing chain decided to kill itself and grenade my entire engine. It’s now at the Land Rover Allentown PA dealership and the only warranty I have is 50% parts and labor which I was told comes out to $11,500 for a new engine. I called JLR customer service to see if they are willing to do a goodwill repair for the rest of the bill because a timing chain failing at this early is unheard of especially with a clear maintenance record (all done at the dealership) on the carfax. JLR said they don’t do goodwill repairs anymore and basically brushed me off. So now I don’t know what to do and would like guidance on how to proceed because 11,500 out of pocket for a car I just bought is insane. I honestly should have heed the warnings from my friends and got a Land Cruiser Which jus thinking about it, the price of the car plus this engine replacement, it would of been better and cheaper to get a new LC…Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!

I have a friend leaving the country soon and is selling a 2016 LR4 HSE Luxury.

Interior and exterior are in perfect condition.

Approximately 180,000KM will be on it by the time it’s ready to buy.

What should I be looking out for? He is second owner but is pretty meticulous with maintenance. He bought it around 100,000KM.

What is a reasonable price to pay for this?

Does it make sense to buy this and not have a monthly car payment or go with a 2023 or newer Defender 130 and have a car payment, but
The benefit of a warranty.

Evening all I’m due to collect a brand new landrover from the dealership tomorrow and they have asked for proof of insurance. Which is not a problem once I get a registration, they have said they can’t register or tax the vehicle until I get it insured. Problem is every insurer wants the registration number which obviously I don’t have. Then a temporary insurer won’t do it due to the price of the vehicle and land rovers own drive away insurance want a registration number so what’s going on here?

Car was in a flood. I was away. I have a "friend" looking at it and he sent me the above video. Its a 2015 LR4 with 61k miles. I notice the Air Intake Tubes / Hoses are removed...not sure why. he says it could be timing chain or exhaust manifold from the sound but I'm not sure, especially with those hoses removed. He said he had to remove them to look at the car. Any suggestions from people with experience?

Hey guys, I have a 2016 LR4 and was looking into getting a remote start system before the winter. I was curious if anyone has something set up on theirs. If so, how did you get it/what are you using? Thanks!

Just took my 2010 L320 5.0 SC on a 6 day roadtrip from Seattle to LA on highway 101 and highway 1. 1,400 miles and 35 hours later she did just fine. Here are some of my favorite shots from the trip.

Hello all, so next week im going to see 3 different series santana landrovers. 2x 88s and 1x 109. Guy wants 1k usd each. But they have no chassis and only 1 has a drive train. Were we in central america, parts are hard to come by so was gonna get new galv chassis from the uk amd new firewalls. Before i go down that route. Would the body fit on any other LR chassis? And then engine? I am keen on a resto mod though im sure many of you think that is a crime. Thoughts

I'm considering a LR as a second car for some hobby usage (ski trips, hauling mountain bikes, camping, possible off-roading) and to drive to work during winter months. I live in Wisconsin. My budget to purchase would be a max of $15,000 with $5000 as an initial maintenance budget. I have a reliable daily driver already so great reliability is not a concern. However, I also am aware of LRs reputation with reliability issues. Is that overblown or is it true? I do not know much about the brand. I am interested in this brand though because of the character of these vehicles. I'm wanting something different other than a wrangler, Cherokee, 4runner, gx, etc. so for my budget what would be the best model I can buy? I am considering the discovery II, LR3, and LR4.

And I literally only had one tire choice. After dropping $800 on the wife’s car’s tires the day before. 😅

Los Angeles. Hey everyone, I’m trying to find out if there are any independent Land Rover mechanics floating around Los Angeles? I know the major shops that will do work, but even they charge a premium markup on parts and mark up on labor. I’m trying to find somebody that can work with me on specific jobs where I buy the parts and they charge me to work on them. Any suggestions?

Just picked up this MINT P38 callaway from basically the original owner. It’s basically flawless outside of needing a new headliner. EVERYTHING works, no rust the engine bay is immaculate the interior is immaculate the paint is original and unfaded, I’ve already put 400 miles on her and outside of her thirsty nature she just purrs along. What a babe. Love the retro 90s feeling and the Harmon Kardon sound system sounds very good especially for the age. I’ll have to get better pics!

I shall be taking delligent care of her. She will be getting a new headliner in oem material/color.

All exterior plastics cleaned and ceramic costed in Cerokote

Clay bar and single stage paint correction

Sealed and waxed in Collinite 845 insulator wax

All rubber seals and gaskets coated in Shin Etsu

All door locks and tail gate locks coated with lithium grease

Engine bay rubbers and plastics coated in Sil Glyd

All electrical connection cleaned with Deoxit!

Frame coated in protective oil bc why not !

Interior condition and coated in leather honey

Unfortunately she may or may not be for sale in 18 months as I travel a lot for work and may have to again but I’m falling in love with her.

I may make some content so people can check up on her.

2016 LR4 HSE Silver Edition. Still got the 2006 LR3 in the driveway too!

Researching for months, been through a lot of forms and I’m starting to see the same things that these LR fours have issues with. Timing chains and the coolant crossover pipes are a lot of the main issues. I see, also the air suspension as well.

With all things considered, I’m still wanting to buy an LR for looking for a black or tan colored one. I found one a couple hours away. It’s a 2011 with about 150,000 miles. It’s priced around 8K and I’m wanting to talk to the guy down to a reasonable price.

I’m going to take a look at it on Sunday and just wanna be sure what to look for while I’m inspecting the vehicle. Any advice would be appreciated!

Carfax looks pretty good, the car was a lease and then owned by someone else who did oil changes about every 3k miles. Also seen the water pump was replace a couple times, is that common?

What's you favourite landys

Seriously considering a Freelander 2 to replace my 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero. Diesel is a fortune with my current 3.2 diesel but I do need to pull a 2ton trailer semi-regularly, and living very rurally on the Atlantic coast of Ireland so often need the 4WD.

I've read that FL2 from 2006 to 2010 came without dpf, as we have no ulez or anything like this is one of these worth waiting to find?

Automatic preferred too, assume the torque converter in these is safe enough for working?

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks a mill folks.

We have a 2011 LR4 with 148k miles and a couple years ago we spilled something on the parking brake switch. It stopped working but we never really used it so I didn’t think much of it. We had it at Land Rover for a recall and they looked at it but said we had to replace the whole module (which I believe is under the car?) and I think they wanted $1,200 to do the job.

So I bought a used parking brake switch off eBay just to test it, took out the cup holder so I could get to the switch, unplugged the old one and plugged in the “new” one and the parking brake works perfectly. Thanks Land Rover.

So now my only problem is how do I get the old one out? I took the two screws out from under the cup holders, I shifted into neutral and popped the shift knob off and I had the whole center console lifted up but from what I can tell, the screw is coming from the top of the switch but there is a plastic piece covering it and I can’t figure it out. I thought for sure there would be a video about it somewhere on the internet but I’m coming up short.
I’m hoping someone has done this and can help me out. Maybe it’s something extremely simple that I completely missed and that’s fine; just want to get it fixed.
Then I can move on to why I’m losing (or burning?) coolant even after I replaced the faulty pump and leaking hoses.

Hi everyone,

I’m considering picking up this 2004 discovery ii and wanted to get everyone’s thoughts if it’s a good idea.

It’s got 125k miles on it and has had its head gaskets, radiator, and alternator all recently replaced with just the ac motor needing some work.

Overall I think it’s a great deal with the price point at $3,800 but I’m having hesitations being totally new to owning any sort of vintage cars. I’ve driven the same Camry my entire life so far issues have never been something I’ve had to deal with.

I’m wanting to use this truck to make a 3.5 hour drive up to the mountains every other weekend or so for the ski season but wanted to see if everyone thinks the disco 2’s are unreliable as the forums would make you believe?