I recently got my local LR specialist to sort the annoying leaks in the rear axle and transfer box. While doing this, they discovered one of the leaks was coming from the gearbox oil pump, so transfer box had to come out. In doing so, they found it was getting worn, and ideally needed replacement. So, I have just had them replace that. On road test, it was noticed that while it was a lot quieter, you could now hear a whine from the gearbox. I am now over £2k into these repairs and waiting for a price for a replacement gearbox and clutch, which I guess won't be far off £1.5k. I know the only answer is to keep going, but jeez it's just one thing after another lately ! Anyone else start a relatively simple job that ends up snowballing ?

Hi all,

I have 300 TDI Defender 110 from 1997 that I have been working on for about two years. It was in bad condition when I bought it, but now it's in good (or at least driveable!) condition.

Along the way I have designed a few things for the car, and I'd like to show these to the community.

The first thing I'd like to show is the new heater box I made. I demonstrate it in the video.

Any feedback is much appreciated!

I also want to say that I have gotten a lot of help from this community along the process of restoring my Defender. This little corner of the internet is very good! 😊👍

Hi all, I'd like to ask this community for help.

My 300Tdi's clutch started slipping in 5th gear. When I pulled the gearbox, the clutch was soaked in oil and the rear main seal was leaking. I replaced the seal with a genuine Land Rover part, reassembled everything, and it is still leaking oil out of the bottom of the bell housing.

Has anyone run into something similar, or have any words of wisdom? I'm not sure what to check next. Photos attached.

Thanks in advance!

I'm coming from the 80s and early 90s VW TD world and have always wanted a pickup. I'd love to know what the community thinks of this Defender HCPU. I know I'll have to poke and hammer around on the frame. I've owned vintage VWs for a while, and a car like this for 20k makes me wonder what's going on. (If you look at old ads of the truck on the buyer's page, there are more photos. Would love to know folks' thoughts and impressions, as I'm new to the Defender world.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1930314824176878?ref=marketplace_profile&referral_code=undefined

Hello everyone, I hope this is an appropriate ask in this sub. I am currently in Copenhagen, I have always wanted a defender 90 even though I live in a big city, it would mainly be for camping trips and traveling around europe in, maybe the occasional errand or two.

Anyways I wanted to ask about the market before I buy the first clean one that comes my way. If anyone has any experience about prices in the eu specifically in Denmark it would be great to know what to aim for. I see quite a fee for approximately €15k as the starting price for a pretty beat up one, enough to pass MOT but definitely has visibility rust on the body. Cleaner ones that are over 300000km going for €23000. Do I get one of these cleaner examples ( no visible rust, supposedly rust repair work done and particulate filter) for €23/25k ?

Any help would be great! Also of anyone has any experience owning one of these in Copenhagen I would love to hear about it.
Thanks in advance for the help!

Looking for some advice on whether I should do some corrosion control work, before I sprayed this undercarriage with Fluid Film, prior to driving in the winter snow.

Downstream, the intention is to go through the undercarriage completely, so don’t want to do something that’s going to hamper that later.

My thoughts now would be to get it dry ice blasted, then re-evaluate the paint, correct as necessary, and then spray with Fluid Film to guard against the salt corrosion.

New to the Defender experience, so by no means an expert on order of operations for a truck that I intent to clean up quite a bit.

Thanks!

Hey All,

Photo attached:
I’m not much of a mechanic but I fear I’m about to be… looking under my truck and found a small triangular hole in the bottom of the gearbox case. Can’t believe it’s good for the thing, looks like oil has come out of it too. Would a slap of JB weld resolve the issue?

Thanks guys.

Hi everyone I'd like to pick the consensus brains if possible

My father in law has a 1989 110 Defender Country wagon and is now getting to the stage where he no longer has time/ space etc to keep it.

It's done 150k ISH miles on a old turbo diesel engine, I'm sorry my defender knowledge is limited but he's always complained it was underpowered and spoke of a newer engine conversion if that helps identify.

It's been off the road for 5 ISH years now and I'm going to ask how longs a piece of string.

He's talking about scrapping it, this has been in the family for probably 20/30 years.

It was running and driving when it parked and he mentioned he thought it wanted a very small welding patch on the pedal box? If I remember right.

How rare is this model? It seems mad to scrap it in my eyes

But I know if it needed say a chassis swap then things can escalate quickly, think the passenger doors are rusting

I'm just trying to help him, I've offered I'd rather have it then scrap it as wife has a lot of good memories from childhood etc

Sorry for the long winded post, I'm just after shared knowledge to educate myself on them really

Cheers

On the way back to the airport, our car rental guy offered us a very special drop off. V8 SV engine. What an experience!

On the way back to the airport, our car rental guy offered us a very special drop off. V8 SV engine. What an experience!

Hi all, well that time has come and my 1999 TD6 110 is going in for a chassis replacement.
I’m using Marsden Auto Developments to fit a Richards chassis but neither the manufacturer nor Marsden can do the painting before fitting.
So, my question - how difficult is it to paint the chassis once it’s in place? My other option seems to be to hire / buy a trailer, drive to collect and bring home then take it back once painted which seems a huge faff, especially as I don’t have anywhere to store it and would have to do it on the drive.

Back up question - anyone know a company in / around Rotherham that could do the painting?

good evening people, I have a 2007 defender puma id like to ad heated seats into it but my main concern is comfort shes my daily driver so i do want it to be comfortable. My question was if any of you have installed and ran these for an extender period of time. any feedback on them are greatly appreciated

I recently(ish) concluded a full nut and bolt restoration on my 1988 3.5l V8 Land Rover 110. I really went to town and left no stone unturned. In truth, I went too far and spent an astronomical amount of money.

Here is the walkaround of my truck - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LMcj4weCqQ

I hope it provides inspiration to some. Others may hate it but the question I have to those that do watch the whole video (well done to those that do!) is what value would you put on the truck?

It has all matching numbers and whilst everything is new, it is still able to be exported to the US if required.

Had an excuse to dress up the Defender for a local event and went all-in on the vintage luggage. I thought the final setup looked too good not to share. Removed the event branding since this post is really about the truck and roof-rack arrangement.

Hey everyone,
I was chasing a noise in the engine bay and traced it to the alternator. I took the overrunning pulley apart and found the bearing has seized up/galled, with scoring and rust-colored residue visible (see photo).
Now the alternator itself also sounds a bit rough (see videos). Should I replace just the pulley, or is it smarter to replace the whole alternator while I'm at it? I'm worried the internal bearings are on their way out too.

As the title says, I'm stuck removing the nut from the washer spindle.

I need to take the nut off so the spindle can slide out.

It turns both ways but won't come off.

There are 2 washer looking things to the right that are preventing it from coming off. I can't see a way to remove them bar an angle grinder.....which I'm getting tempted with.

I do have a new spindle to damaging it isn't a concern

Introducing my first Defender, a 2007 110 Puma. Absolutely love it so far.

Clearly I should not be left unsupervised with adult money.

This is the 3rd pair this year. Ripped by this lovely door thingy....

Any suggestions to avoid this?

Its a Td5 from 2005. The Noise is so fucking loud…? I think it is the rotor filter. But this is crazy in my opinion. What do you think?

I know it's a vague question and ultimately all depends on how it's been treated but I'm wanting to purchase my first defender sometime in the near future and wanted an idea on what is considered a respectable mileage on old defenders? Is 100,000 normal unlike other vehicles?

Over two years ago, I hired CJ International to rebuild a 1999 TD5 from the ground up, matching all original numbers, with a fully rebuilt engine and a complete chassis restoration, including a modern automatic transmission. The build quality is off the charts. The truck is now in the US, has fully cleared customs, and is being registered. Unfortunately, between the build starting and now, my financial and personal situation has changed significantly, and before I fall in love with it, I am going to sell it.

Literally everything has been rebuilt, including the engine, down to the block. All new everything else. The dashboard cluster is original, as is the AC.

The truck is in the Fort Lauderdale, FL area and is currently at British 4WD getting a full checkup to make sure there are no issues whatsoever. I drove it there from the boat when it arrived, and I have to say it was the best driving 110.

If interested, DM me. Asking $120k. Serious offers will be considered.