Thinking of getting the new defender 110 but don’t known if it fits. Does the antenna count in the measurement of 1,967 mm?

I've received an email invitation to this but I'm wondering if it's a real thing?

2013 Range Rover L405 HSE Steering Locks Up Turning Right After Startup — Replaced Steering Rack TWICE, Same Problem!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some advice from anyone familiar with the 2013 Range Rover L405 and its electric power steering system. I’m honestly running out of ideas and would really appreciate any help before I spend more money replacing parts that may not be the actual problem.

Vehicle:
2013 Range Rover L405 HSE 5.0L V8
Approximately 91,000 miles
Steering rack part number: LR058395

The problem:
When I start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel to the right, the steering gets tight and seems to bind at a certain point. If I apply a little more force, it suddenly releases, and the steering feels normal again. However, multiple warning lights come on across the dashboard, and several fault codes are stored.

If I turn the vehicle off and restart it, the warning lights go away temporarily, but the same steering issue returns when I turn right again.

Here’s what makes this especially frustrating:
I purchased and installed TWO Bosch steering racks with part number LR058395 from RockAuto. The original rack had a different issue: vibration over bumps, but it did NOT have this steering lock-up problem.
After replacing the original rack, the new steering issue appeared, and the second replacement rack did exactly the same thing.

Both replacement racks were installed and programmed, but the problem remains.

My mechanic also noticed that the voltage drops when the steering reaches the point where it binds while turning right.

Another mechanic suggested replacing the main battery because it may be weak. Occasionally, the starter also seems to struggle or hesitate for a few seconds when starting the vehicle.

I’m wondering whether this could be a weak battery, a bad ground, a wiring issue, a power supply problem to the electric power steering system, a steering angle sensor/calibration issue, or a mechanical problem elsewhere in the steering column or front suspension.

Fault codes from the diagnostic scan include:
C1B00-85 — Steering Angle Sensor: Signal Above Allowable Range
U0428-08 — PSCM: Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0428-00 — Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0428-68 — Invalid Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module
U0001-81 — High Speed CAN Communication Bus: Invalid Serial Data Received

There are also other communication-related codes in the scan.

I understand that some of these codes could be secondary faults caused by another issue, but I’m not sure which ones are the root cause.

My questions:
Has anyone experienced this exact steering behavior on an L405?

Could a weak main battery or a bad ground cause the steering to bind at one specific point and trigger all these codes?

Since two replacement racks behave exactly the same way, should I be looking at the steering column/intermediate shaft, wiring, grounds, or steering angle sensor instead?

Is there a known issue with the power supply or wiring to the electric power steering rack on these vehicles?

What diagnostic tests would you perform before replacing anything else?

I’ve already spent thousands of dollars on repairs, including the steering racks, and I really want to identify the actual cause rather than continue throwing parts at the vehicle.

Any advice from someone who has diagnosed this issue before would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

I have a 1968 series 2a Land Rover and curious if it’s possible to even get on the road since I’m 18 and have no experience in cars

It got passed down to me after my dad died

This one's a head scratcher for me anyway. Our newly acquired 2015 LR4 HSE Lux with the SCV6 and 72K mi is experiencing near overheating (or so indicated on the dash) at almost exactly 10 minutes after starting and running on the highway, then returns to normal after about 20 seconds. There are no leaks in crossovers, water pump or loss of coolant. Thermostat, coolant, fan clutch wiring, and intake air sensor were replaced at 71K. After a bit of googling I ran through the recommended burp procedure twice but the temp still sneaks up to just below the H before retreating back to the midpoint. Once it's done it it will reliably run at normal until the next cold start, warmup and 10min in it runs the scare routine again. I wouldn't be so paranoid, based on the service history and what I can see, if it weren't for the catastrophic nature of overheating events with this engine. Any ideas? Thanks, in advance.