I assume minimal to 0%. However - is it time for new stripping? Adjustments? I used a 4’ level at the bottom where the door comes down and it all looked level. Thanks for any guidance!

9ft wide insulated garage door 7.5 feet high. It goes up about 10 feet before it is horizontal. Manually if lifts initially with little to no effort but as soon as it get about 1/3 up it wants to go up by itself ....fast. Been that way since new and wasn't an issue since it was seldom used until lately. I am guessing the springs around torsion shaft are too soft and have too many winds to overcome the weight of door. Just a guess?????

I can't find a part number. Any help would be appreciated.

I had a new garage opener installed year, this week all of a sudden my remotes won’t work. I can see the red light turn on when I press the button on the remote, but when I tried to pair it, it wouldn’t pair. I looked up how to pair online but still no luck. Here is the model I’m dealing with.

Hi everyone,

I’m a garage door technician in Australia, mainly doing servicing, and recently attended a sectional garage door with a few issues. I’d appreciate some advice from experienced technicians.

What I observed:
One of the lifting cables was damaged and appeared to have been rubbing against the curved track. There were visible rubbing marks on the track.
Interestingly, the cable wasn’t touching the track when I inspected it, suggesting the contact may happen only at certain positions during operation.

When the door was more than halfway closed, I noticed the entire door repeatedly shifting left and right between the tracks.

The door also made a loud noise when it was almost fully open. I couldn’t confirm exactly where the noise was coming from.

My initial assessment:
I suspect there could be an issue with the track alignment, excessive sideways clearance, worn rollers or another component allowing the door to move laterally.

I proposed replacing both lifting cables and investigating the underlying cause before deciding whether any track components need replacement.

My questions:
What would cause the entire sectional door to repeatedly shift left and right during travel?

Could excessive roller clearance or incorrect track spacing cause the cable to intermittently rub against the curved track?

Could the loud noise near the fully open position be related to the same issue?
What components would you prioritise inspecting before recommending track replacement?

I’ve attached a photo showing the cable and curved track.

The door has a damaged lifting cable, so I’m treating it as unsafe to operate until the fault is identified and repaired.
I’m keen to learn from others’ experience. Thanks in advance!

I shared what the repair entails with the emailed quote. I guess the hinges are an issue to. Can’t the hinges be reinforced or the existing one stay on the center then an additional hinge added to the outside (left and right).

Update: I ended up getting a new Chamberlain C1000 to replace the ancient Liftmaster I was trying to keep alive. Setup took way longer than anticipated because I was doing it solo and had to consult the install video heavily, but happy to have it all set up now. Thanks for the advice everyone! I canceled a $150 Amazon order for just the wall button and a few remotes and the whole unit was only $200 ($240 if you count the keypad because I couldn’t get my craftsman one to work), so it feels like a good upgrade.

Original post:
I have what I believe to be a 2001 (if original to the house) LiftMaster that's been starting to act up, and am wanting to double check that my planned solution should work to more consistently access my garage.

• The built in openers in both vehicles stopped working after 2 years of working fine
• Liftmaster branded remotes started working only intermittently
• Craftsman keypad stopped working, successfully reprogrammed, worked for a day, and then stopped working again
• The wall button still works as normal, and I confirmed it's not set to 'lock' mode.
• The same issues are occurring with lightbulbs removed and chargers in the garage unplugged.

These issues (and it being seemingly every possible remote acting up, even with fresh batteries) lead me to believe the wireless receiver built into the unit is going bad. Because the motor itself still works fine with the wall button, I don't want to replace the whole unit.

With this model having a red/orange learn button, I believe it's a 390MHz Security+ configuration. Should this unit work with the following? Perhaps more importantly, if the radio receiver on the unit is going bad like I suspect, is it likely that that would affect the wired connection?

1. 889LM (should connect to GF's car (2022) homelink, but not my truck (2013) that uses Lear)
2. 891LM Remotes (for my truck)
3. 828LM Gateway (so I can close it while on the go?)
4. Craftsman keypad (claims to work with both Security+ and Security+2.0)

Sorry for being scatterbrained, I'm hoping to cover all my bases while I still have time to cancel the Amazon order if needed. I bought the above for likely less than the cost of a service call, so hopefully I can avoid needing to call someone out.

Hey everyone, hoping someone who has set up the Gentex HomeLink V5 mirror with a Yellow-button LiftMaster can spot what I’m missing.

**My Setup:**

-Truck: 2025 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid

-Mirror: Advent/Gentex Frameless Auto-Dimming Mirror with HomeLink Version 5 (HL5) & HomeLink Connect (Plug & Play kit from Bob's Mirrors, Part # `ADVGENFLCHLN`)

-Garage Opener: LiftMaster myQ AC Wi-Fi Opener — Logic Board Part # `050ACTWF` (Mfg Date: 03/27/20, FCC ID: `HBW1D8088-1`)

-Opener Protocol: Security+ 2.0 (Round Yellow Learn Button)

**What’s Happening:**

-Phase 1 (Training Mirror to Handheld Remote):** I cleared the mirror memory (held buttons 1 & 3 until solid orange turned to flashing green). Tapped my chosen HomeLink button so it flashed orange slowly, then held my working LiftMaster handheld remote button until the mirror LED turned green.

-Phase 2 (Syncing to Motor):** I pressed and released the round Yellow Learn button on the LiftMaster motor head (small amber LED next to the yellow button lit up solid). Went back to the truck within 30 seconds and did the 2-second press-and-hold sequence on the mirror button multiple times.

3-The Issue: The main light on the garage motor flashed during the sync step, and when I press the HomeLink button on the mirror now, the mirror LED lights up solid green—**but the garage door will not move.** My handheld remote and wall button still open and close the door normally (so Vacation/Lock mode is not on, and the safety sensors are clear).

I'm ripping my hair out and am out of ideas entirely. PLEASE, any help would be amazing!

Couldn’t find anything resembling it in the owners manual

To replaced garage door

Keypad cost over$700.

Replacent part $350 &

Labor $350.

Complaind but they said

propery charged.

Unbelivable.

I am 90 years old

I just had a prefab detached garage dropped off and it features an uninsulated metal garage door so its light. The building has no power but I'd like to install an opener that uses 12V and figured a car battery connected to a solar maintainer would do the trick. That or an AC opener with an inverter on the same battery setup.

I'm not finding a ton of info. Who has done something like this?

I did see this. https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...r-opener/24145/p-1642874371538214-c-12367.htm although the instructions link talks about grounded power (the instructions do feature a P/N with a different suffix)

What kind of content should a small garage door company create to engage its followers?

We're building a home. Our construction plans had our garage doors at 9' wide by 8' tall. Went to visit and see progress today and our site supervisor said that the doors "won't fit". He said the openings are 9'1" wide and 9'3" wide for the two doors that are side by side, and said the garage door installer said they need 9'6" for the torsion spring bar above the door. Is there any way to workaround this? He doesn't want to trim the pilings too extensively and the middle one is load bearing with the LVL on top, so it cannot be trimmed on the left side of it either. Our initial plan was to install an Overhead Door Carriage Style Model 7540 door on each side.

Thanks in advance for your help!

hello all my garage door remotes stopped opening and closing the garage door from the outside, if I get pretty close with the openers it will open and close the door , anything over 3 feet wont do anything, i only have the inside button to open and close the garage , the wire for the antenna is straight down ,

this started 2 days ago the garage door is Chamberlain lift master professional 1/2 horse power

the wall button has a solid green light

its has a burnt out halogen bulb and I have not changed the led bulbs in the last 2 years I had them in the garage which are 5' away

thank you in advance for your assistance

I am trying to get two garage doors installed and have got similar quotes for doors. I wanted to know which brand is the best or if there are any differences between them at all.

Clopay Brodgeport

Amarr Hillcrest

Invicta Series 100

All three layer doors

Now that I have a battery on my garage door it would seem that unplugging it when we leave on a long trip we do every year will be problematic. In the past we have turned off its Smartplug after 6pm till 6am and when traveling its off the whole time and we use large C Clamps on each side of the door to prevent anyone from opening it with a simple crowbar.

From what I can tell, the battery is an SLA which self discharges like all Lead Acid batteries. Their support team says unplugging the battery is fine as it wont discharge unless someone uses it. I've been dealing with LA batteries for a very long time, that is very untrue. They self discharge rapidly. (just talk to someone who owns an RV if you have questions about deal SLA or LA batteries)

This is a quandary. I know the remotes can be locked out via the smart opener pad after reading the manual. But leaving it on for all the time just seems wrong with the price of electricity and tou pricing by my PoCo. I calc'd it out to 87.6 KwH

Not knowing the exact voltage or how it charges it I see a 5ah 12v liFePo battery about ~$25, a bit less than 1 years cost for that vampire draw at my house today. (probably more next year)

Their support team has no one to escalate my question too. So I am here, wondering if someone has figured something out for their homestead. I personally don't really need the battery, maybe I could just remove it, but I find no info if that screws something else up.

Hi all I need some help locating which brand my door is. The plastic grid cracked in one window while we were cleaning them. Thanks so much! See pics (currently taped)

Video shows the issue, happens when opening as well as when closing. Video shows both open and close.

When going up, my garage door makes 6 high-pitched whistles, seemingly at the point where each wheel hits a certain spot.

When door goes down, it makes a sound like it’s dragging and getting stuck along the track.

I’ve oiled the spinning pieces but it hasn’t made much of a difference.

any help in identifying what is happening is appreciated!

My garage door seems to shift to the left whenever I open and close it. When its over on the left the cable rubs on the side of the door when it goes up and down. I can move it back over to the center with my hands but when I open it a few times it ends up back on the left side with the cable rubbing. I thought maybe the opener was pulling it to the left but the opener seems pretty centered. What can or should I look for to help fix this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Can anyone help name what these seals are that run horizontally between panels? Easiest way to change? House is less than 2 years old and they are starting to come off all over.