This door is the bane of my existence. This company has thrown enough money into the hunk to replace it twice in the last few years. Anybody else just have constant issues with the Albany ultra tough doors? Or just Albany doors in general?

Looking to have our r8 doors replaced due to hail damage.

We were offered

Wayne Dalton 8500 installed for 2 at $4800
Garaga Acadia 138 r12 for $4200
Steelcraft or StarPro R16 for $4000

Which door would you go with? Thinking steel craft or starpro as the doors are R16. Unheated detached garage. Maybe add heater later.

Garage is very well insulated in -25 it would be -5 degrees in there with the current R4 doors.

Sounds like the opener is going but door doesn’t budge. I can open manually but the manual rope to pull on is very finicky and you can even see it bounce in the video when I try to open the door. Not sure if it’s something with that or a different problem? Any ideas?

EDIT 1: the pull arm became disconnected from the trolley. I manually opened the door, then clicked the opener again. The trolley moved back and reconnected with the arm. Then I clicked the opener again and the door closed just fine, however it will not automatically reopen. When the door is closed the chain does not move at all. After I manually opened it the chain moved to move the trolley/bracket piece back to reconnect with the arm. Then the chain moved again to close the door. However the door will not open on its own.

Old Chamberlain K710 With the 41A3627 logic board. Was looking for a second remote for a new vehicle and ended up buying a universal remote that was advertised as working with its round yellow learn button. I was unaware that chamberlain used the yellow learn button on two different generations of opener so I figured it was compatible with my unit.

Couple days later the garage would open randomly. At first I thought it was a faulty remote so I took the batteries out of it until I ended up getting a new one. After it opened randomly again I found out that the yellow learn button my unit has is not meant to be used with my remote.

Went on here and I saw a post from about a year ago stating that once you program one of these remotes it’s basically over for the logic board.

Still thought I would make this post and see if anyone has found a workaround for my issue.

I also saw a comment elsewhere saying that chamberlain would replace my unit free of charge if dealing with this issue, but I can’t seem to find it anymore so I would also like clarification if this would be an option for me.

I will start off by saying this garage door owes me nothing. It's been a loyal appliance for 15 plus years but it has recently developed a problem- it only opens but fails to close the door.

The physical controls inside the garage still work fine, it can open and close. I can open the garage using the remote/keypad/wall switch, back the car out and then the remote/keypad wouldn't work but the wall switch will close it.

Does anyone have any guesses?

After a 15 hour day, I get a text from my gf saying someone’s trying to get but found nothing on all our cameras.

I get home and “try” to open the garage and nothing. Seems like it happened right after she got home. I have Old Republic Home Protection but most seem to say it’s a waste. The garage is already damaged since I bought the house 18 months ago. Just wondering if it’s in my best interest to just have someone swap out the spring or just bite the bullet and just get an insulated new door with spring.

Probably somewhere within $2200-2700.

Is this a normal malfunction and if so, what is the remedy?

Thank you in advance... God bless you sages of modern drawbridges.

I have a new lift master motor (the specific model isn't written upon the unit) and it has a yellow programming button. I have a 878MAX wall keypad. My reading suggests these are compatible (yellow button compatible with 878max keypad). I cannot get it to program. I will list steps taken.

-press yellow programming button on motor unit

-within 30 seconds, type code into wall keypad and hit enter

Variations include...

-pressing and holding enter on the wall keypad

-replacing the 9V battery on the wall keypad

-pressing zero after pressing enter on the wall keypad

-pressing the learn button on the wall button (the one inside the garage) and trying to program the keypad that way

-downloading the myq app just to see if there are in-app solutions (didn't see any)

Further information...

-the motor is successfully paired to two remotes, so it has been able to pair before

-there is no auditory or visual response of any kind of the motor to the keypad

-the receiver wire is hanging down into the garage appropriately

Is it possible to replace this belt? What could cause this? Is this connectors Ned’s to be replaced or belt only?

I have a pretty old garage door. One of the springs broke suddenly today after my wife got home from work. Seems easy enough to fix, I just have no idea how to size a new one or even where to find them.

Hello! Trying to repair a Liftmaster 3850. Issue started with the door opening a foot or so and then closing for a couple of tries, then finally not responding at all. I was told that the flashing error code suggested either the travel module, or I needed a new logic board.

I have two of the identical openers in my garage, so I experimented and swapped the logic boards between each of them - and oddly neither opener would run at all. So, I swapped them back to their original spots and the good opener works fine again but still nothing from the bad one.

So then I replaced the travel module with a brand new one and still no activity. Lastly, I purchased a "tested" used logic board and put it in the bad unit and still won't operate.

The opener powers on, the motion lights respond, but pressing the button to set the travel limits and nothing happens. I can hear a faint electrical noise like it's trying to do something for a second but that's about it. Since taking out the logic board and putting it back in there is no more flashing error code to reference, I just can't get the motor to move the door when trying to set the travel limits. I should note the battery backups are dead so I disconnected them years ago, not sure if that would impact this or not.

Since I have two doors and openers it wasn't critical this get fixed right away so had some fun trying to DIY it and learn a thing or two but I'm about to give up and finally get a new one installed, but is there anything else I missed here?

The cable on the left is catching the door then snapping, is this a quick fix or new door?

“UPDATE” thanks to everyone who responded, I’m glad to update this post saying that “yes, it was the sun hitting the sensor in the morning just at the right angle, you guys are amazing, I would have never figure this out by myself thank you guys

I'm sure I'm using the wrong words, but I have a <10 year Chamberlain garage door opener (so I feel it's getting old but not that old). I got it serviced about a year ago when it wasn't working at all and it's been working since then, but in the past couple of months it seems to require me to reset the travel distance all the time. So I learned enough DIY to use the buttons on the opener to set the open level and the closed level, but it seems that the level's wander -- most often so the 'closed' level ends up pushing the door past the ground causing the garage to pop back open. The other way has happen where it's supposedly fully open but it is considerably farther down that it needs to be, so much so that my taller car might hit the so called 'open' door if I didn't pay attention.

When I had to reset the travel once a month I'm like that's ok, I live in a cold environment and its a bit old so it just needs to be handled occasionally. When it became once a week I'm like this could be a problem, and now it seems like every day its slipping a bit. What could be causing this problem? When the problem originally occurred it seems like there was too much slack in the cable after it closed, but nowadays it seems fine when I watch it, the door position just seems to move a lot.

Thanks!

Bought the house in 2022 - we actually park in our garage and enter the house from it - so our garage door gets frequent use on a daily basis. The current opener loses connectivity with the outdoor keypad and is obviously very loud - and no telling how old it is, but deep down - the thing still works, even have a Meross installed.

I have a 20% off coupon from Lowe’s that expires today and have been eyeing Chamberlain - B4310 to be exact. From the research I’ve done - 3/4 HP should do the trick?

16’ aluminum door with Insulfoam-Garage Door Insulation Kit R- 4.8 , 1.25-in x 1.6875-ft x 8-ft Faced Polystyrene Board Insulation installed.

Will 4310 be just fine for should I go for a 1-HP? Thanks for the help and advice!

My original 3x Nutone garage door openers had 3x buttons wired in at various locations in my garage, which made it super convenient to open/close the garage doors. Basically, the guy who built the house had a button wired at every door to the garage, plus a set of buttons in front of each car spot on the wall.

I want to have physical, wired panels again for each garage door? Is there any way to do that with the 'digital' communication between the opener and the panels now? I tried it with one of the openers I installed, and it works, but I have to push the panel button two times. And the yellow light blinks on all the other openers. Should I try to wire each panel directly to the motor, or do them in parallel? I hate the idea of installing wireless units and having to replace batteries all the time.

I get the first cable as tight as I can but it doesn't seem like I can get the other side as tight. Before long the garage door is scraping the track when operating. It seems to me if that cable is tighter it would pull the door more for that side.

Would it be better to not make the first cable as tight to match the other side's tension?

Just moved into a new home. Garage door works good (opens and closes fine). However the inspector mentioned that the garage door does not sense when it closes on something - meaning when it’s closing and something is in the way, it doesn’t stop. Safety hazard.

I noticed this loose yellow wire just hanging from the opener (bottom right corner). Could this be the issue? If not, can anyone identify what the wire is for?

Can anyone help me program this remote to this garage opener? Thank you in advance

Looks like hinges are adjusted all the way
What’s solution ?

I noticed the board that the center bracket and opener track are mounted to is pushed between the studs and cracked down the middle. Is there a safe way to fix this without removing the spring? I want to insulate between the studs and hang drywall, but this needs to be addressed first.