r/FoodNYC • u/LekkkerHoor • 7h ago
Photo Post-colonoscopy food tour of Spanish Harlem......
After 40 hours without solid food, I had a colonoscopy on Carnegie Hill. The clinic didn’t recommend that an escort pick me up, just no alcohol or major life decisions for 8 hours. So I popped a gummy in the soft sunshine and headed uptown, down the hill. My GI doc told me no one wants to know the colonoscopy results, just where lunch is.
Starting from empty, my first stop was Bermudez Bakery at Lex and 117 for a cuban sandwich and a Bustelo café con leche. Years ago Sietsema called the cubano the city’s best. It was simple: cheap storebought ham, swiss, pickles and decent pernil, the puffy and tasteless bread beautifully crisped on the plancha by Yessica. Feeling chatty, I ordered a second Bustelo so I could hang out. Neighborhood people came in to order sandwiches and folks with roller bags wandered in and out from the drug spot on the sidewalk. Two cafés and a cubano $12.
I retraced my steps to Tamales Lupita on E 112th. I had two rajas con queso: fluffy masa steamed in corn husks, chile poblano with a nice bite, queso de Oaxaca, and epazote. Damn good tamales, estilo guerrerense, hot ones all day long. I cut the heat with an icy, not-too-sweet agua de jamaica (hibiscus). $9.75.
I swung by E 121st St and Sylvan Court where I spent a couple of days in the aughts when it was a thriving shooting gallery and I was funded by the NIH. There were real estate signs all around and I saw a listing online for a small townhouse on the court asking $1.8 million. On EphermeralNY, long-gone locals reminisced about how the heat didn’t work and their house was haunted by ritualistic santeria butchering. The McDonald’s was shuttered at Lex and 125th, always a solid place to recruit derelicts. The sidewalks didn’t seem very gentrified at 2pm on a Friday, except for a mom with a fancy stroller and a tourist in shorts and tall dark socks.
I stopped by Lechonera La Isla on 125th, the one with the upside-down neon pig, flying the PR flag but run by Mexicans. I asked for a small plate of lechon, thinking it would come with arroz con habichuelas, but it was a bowl of straight-up pernil with chewy and excellent cuero, assertively salted and accompanied by a delicious mojo de ajo and a nice picked habanero and onion slaw. A fresh tray of cuchifritos came out, so I ordered a deep-fried alcapurria of green plaintain and yuca with a carne molida center, pleasingly bland, and another café Bustelo. $16 total.
After all those Bustelos and with no facilities in the mom-and-pops, I headed to Marcus Garvey Park. I asked a man with a shopping cart where I could find a restroom. He said, “You don’t want to go in there” and showed me the local out-of-the-way pee spot. I climbed Mt Morris for the views and got cruised by one of the men circulating at the top. I took the A Train home.