r/e39 • u/ImprezaDrezza • Sep 10 '19
Please note everyone that the rules for r/e39 have been updated. I have clarified a few things related to discussion topics and acceptable conduct.
Most importantly I have added a section on listing For Sale style posts. [Some] other car subs allow this so I thought we could try it out. E39 fandom is a more closely knit group than other BMW subcultures and could stand to benefit from a dedicated venue for cars/parts/effort trading.
I want to be clear if this isn't a popular option, or if FS posts become routinely adversarial, we can adjust the rules on these posts or eliminate them entirely.
I welcome any comments on this change and the sub rules in general, and will continue to poll our community for changes or ideas on a regular basis.
r/e39 • u/yofuckreddit • Aug 21 '20
Hey guys! I figured I'd sticky this. I'll update the post if y'all have anything good to add or critique, let me know.
Introduction
Looking to buy an E39? First things first – the reputation of these cars is partially deserved and partially not.
We frequently get asked if new car owners should purchase an E39. I love E39s more than nearly anyone I know - I have a 525i and an M5, and both are incredible for different reasons. I've done many of the DIYs and addressed many of the problem areas listed here. If you aren't in a financially comfortable enough situation to have 3-6 months of expenses in a savings account at all times, you're not in a position to own a 20-year-old BMW hassle free. It's a question of financial safety and consistency rather than attainability - buying a $4k 530i and maintaining it for 5 years or so is arguably a much better deal than going into debt for a $40,000 CUV that drives like shit.
Evaluating a Car
There are a couple of things to factor into your evaluation of a car before we even talk about problem areas:
Prices & Purchasing
Market prices for these cars have fluctuated over the past couple years. There’s a noticeable difference between pre (<=2000) and post-facelift (2001+) models. Later models also may make adding an auxiliary port easier, have upgraded components, or have more standard features. Also keep in mind that sport packages for the 530 and 540, along with manual transmissions, command a significant premium as well. Prices on sports (530 or 540) and M5s have increased a bit since this guide was originally written a couple years ago. Finally, it's worth knowing that the 540's engine in pre-2000 configurations is slightly more reliable as it does not include VANOs.
Ballpark prices are based on a mix of my estimation and Classic.com, a great reference for car markets. Links included below, and assume cars aren't total shit shows:
When you check out ANY used car for purchase, you should be checking a variety of different things. Use a generalist guide to start. We’ll go through common failure points for the chassis and individual models for you to pay special attention to. Parts prices are for OEM or OE if I can find them, not genuine. Indy shop is a wild guess for the most part. Prices for doors or wheels are PER ITEM.
Conservatively plan to spend about $1k a year ON AVERAGE if you do a mix of shop work and DIY. Many years you'll get lucky and get to invest in an upgrade or something preventative if you wish. If you can find an example with new control arm bushings, window regulators, and Timing Chain Guides for 540s, you can save yourself a ton of heartache and just deal with replacing BS plastic parts as they snap.
General Problem Areas
| Problem Area | Cause | Symptoms | DIY (Parts) | Indie Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Window Regulators | Garbage BMW Design | Windows that do not roll up or down, or slip. Test all 4 windows, including both the localized controls for each door and the driver’s door controls | $100, 2 hours. Text DIY Youtube DIY | $500 |
| Vapor Barriers | Butyl tape that adheres the sound deadening/vapor barrier foam degrades over time, requiring at least the reapplication of the tape OR new adhesive OR a whole new door panel. | Soaked rear floorboards after rain. Softness in bottom of door panels. Test by pouring water on the roof of the car. After a moment, open the door. Ensure water drips from the bottom of the chassis, not from the door. | $0-$15-$115, 2 hours. | $500 |
| Rust | There's a couple very poor drainage points on the E39, including those connected to vapor barriers as above | Common spots include rear door, bumper seam, gas cap. Check out /u/richbltn 's buying guide Here for common rust spots (whole video is worth a watch) | Repairing rust is an odious task, especially externally visible spots. | reputable body shops generally cost $1500 + to fix a collection of rust spots |
| Front Control Arm Bushings | Rubber joints between suspension components degrade over time. These are the secret to a simultaneously pliable and firm chassis. Consider with Polyurethane for a stiffer ride but permanent fix, or a monoball setup. | Violent shuddering during braking (generally 70% braking force). Test with a variety of braking amounts and speeds. Check the bushings by jacking up the car and ensure they aren’t cracked | $25, 6 hours. May require special tools or replacement of control arms if damaged. | $600 |
| VANOS | Tiny seals in BMW’s variable valve timing system (probably too overengineered) are made of cheap rubber that plasticizes with exposure to oil and heat, something that happens every day. | Excessive oil consumption, laggy shifting in automatic models, whooshing sound from the engine, sudden drops in power delivery. | $25-$500, 12 hours Do NOT use OEM VANOS seals, as they will eventually have the same problem. Aftermarket seals are the same price and far superior. Besian Systems/DR VANOS. | $1200-$5500 (Depends on new vs rebuilt VANOS, and varies from model to model) |
| Valve Cover Gasket | The rubber between the top and bottom of the valve cover is a part that has to be replaced on every car. | An old VCG will start leaking oil slowly. You may smell it as it burns off inside the car. Eventually you’ll have a catastrophic failure and need to degrease the engine bay and have it towed somewhere. Test by checking for oil spots or moisture between the top and bottom of the valve cover (the main part of the engine). | $50, 5 hours. | $750-$1250 (DO THIS THE SAME TIME AS A VANOS REPLACEMENT) |
| Seat Twist | Garbage BMW design. The seats use 2 motors that don’t stay aligned, and cables that slowly slip out of the gears that drive them. | One side of a seat will adjust, the other will not, leading to the seat twisting. | $0, 3 hours | $300 |
| Headlight Adjusters | Bad design and extremely brittle plastic in a hot area that's been there for 20 years. | Frequently this manifests itself by your headlights pointing at the ground. | $20-60, 3 hours from this DIY. You can get aluminum or plastic adjuster replacements. | N/A - you'd buy new headlights for around $300+ |
| Dead Pixels | Contacts for the LCDs on the instrument cluster and the head unit eventually decay. You can take them apart and clean/rebuild them or buy new. For my money I'd just replace the head unit at least | Unreadable displays with clearly missing pixels - you can't miss this one and it's very common | $0, a huge PITA, DIY. | Specialty shops will do it for $150 or so. A remanufactured cluster is $450. |
| Secondary Air System | The secondary air recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine to “Save the planet” and also annoy the fuck out of BMW owners. Broken vacuum tubes, stuck check valve, or ruined solenoids can all cause these issues. | Check engine light with lean fuel mixture fault codes. Chugging during startup. | $25-125, god knows how long. BAVAuto has an EXCELLENT tutorial on diagnosing SAS problems. Another option that I'd probably only suggest to M5 owners is using a tune that deletes these codes. | $300+ |
| Cooling System | This covers a host of issues: Water Pump Failure, Cracked Radiator necks, Plasticized and worn coolant tubes | Inspect all cooling system parts. Check the radiator fan to ensure that it turns smoothly and isn’t too brittle. Lightly squeeze coolant tubes to ensure they’re still pliable. Check for evidence of coolant leaks at tube and component points, or from bleeder valves at the top of the radiator. Ensure that even under stress, engine sounds don’t change and temperature doesn’t rise (within reason) | $25-$750. 2-5 hours. | $1250+ |
| Fucking Horrible Audio | Everything about the E39 sound system is god awful | If it’s OEM it sucks | There are various aftermarket nav systems that still provide an OEM look and a ton of functionality for around $700. Or you can go your own way and buy a $100 head unit or something. Keep in mind that in general this will degrade the value of your car if it’s really clean. | $? |
| ABS System Malfunctions | The ABS system’s position in i6 models is extremely hot, leading to the soldering of certain electronic components degrading. | ABS, Traction control, and yellow brake light come on intermittently. ABS engine codes. Do not pay someone to replace this, it literally just takes a T20 screwdriver. | $100 reconditioned, $1000 new. | $1200 |
| Power Steering Leaks | The power steering system uses rubber hoses right next to a really hot engine | Power Steering hoses appear to “Glisten”. Wet spot in plastic pan at the bottom of the engine bay. Loose or unresponsive steering wheel response. | $200, 2 hours. | $500 |
V8 Only Problems (540i, M5)
| Problem Area | Cause | Symptoms | DIY (Parts) | Indie Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Timing Chain Guides | Timing chain gets a little loose, Timing chain guides are plastic. This is much more common on the 540 for some weird reason (probably that it's a single-row chain). | Slapping sound, camshaft position codes, metal shavings in engine. | $1000, 20 hours | $4000 |
Buying Parts
When you're looking to buy new parts, it can get a bit confusing (to put it lightly). For an accurate, if slightly biased, interpretation, the best info is probably here at FCP Euro (a generally reputable parts seller). TL;DR:
OEM is very similar to OE in that it stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. While that sounds like a lesson in semantics, there are some distinct differences. Chiefly, OEM parts are made by a company that makes original parts for a vehicle maker but whose parts weren’t originally fitted. Confused? I don’t blame you, so here’s an example: Delphi makes ignition coils for BMW, and they’re installed on the vehicles at the factory. Bosch makes spark plugs for BMW and the licensing to produce the same ignition coils as Delphi. They’re the same part with the same specifications and made with the same materials, but the manufacturer is different. Delphi is the OE part because that’s what BMW used at the factory, and Bosch is OEM because they make other OE parts for BMW.
Modifications and Upgrades
For better or for worse, the BMW community has enjoyed a rich modification culture and ecosystem. This often clashes with the tastes and opinions of older enthusiasts who have or can buy cars new.
One key takeaway: Tuning an i6 from this era, especially anything under 3.0 liters, is always far more expensive than buying a new car or engine. This forum gets questions around these options regularly. To do this, you will have to be in a rare position of having a lot of money and time to work on the car, without wanting the straightforward power of the V8 engines in the 540 or M5.
Some general thoughts around available upgrade options to keep in mind:
r/e39 • u/Burriboo • 8h ago
Introducing our 523i 1998. Well looked after 94000miles £1500
I am going to have to modify it because I cant help myself.
Here for sitting in the shadows and looking for tips and tricks.
r/e39 • u/nvalle105 • 9h ago
Just picked up a set of titanium interior trim pieces for my E39!
I originally thought I was buying the regular aluminum trim, but apparently these are a much rarer version. They look absolutely stunning, and honestly, I’d never seen them before.
Does anyone know which package or factory option these originally came with? Were they part of an Individual spec?
Also, does anyone know if they can be repaired? A couple of pieces have some small dents, and I’d love to restore them.
Thanks!
r/e39 • u/Ashamed-Reception600 • 2h ago
Time for an aluminum power steering pulley replacement
I locked my key in the trunk of my 2002 BMW 530i with the alarm armed via keyfob. After the first AAA tow truck failed, a knowledgable locksmith (also via AAA) got me in the car I 10 minutes. In other reports, I saw that people had drilled a hole into the trunk. This is *NOT* necessary unless the battery is dead too. I couldn’t find the process documented anywhere so I’m posting for the community.
The locksmith used an airbag wedge to create a gap at the top of the passenger side door frame, then used a long reach tool to activate the interior door unlock button on the center console by the shifter. A subtle click confirmed something engaged, and then he pulled the interior handle twice to open the door. From there the interior trunk release worked normally.
TLDR: To get into a locked E39, use a tool to activate the interior unlock button *before* pulling the door handle twice.
Hi everyone,
I've recently noticed water dripping from the front interior light after going through a car wash with my E39 Touring.
Before everyone shouts clogged sunroof drains: I keep a close eye on them and make sure they're clear. I tested them with a watering can and water drains away just fine. I also checked them with compressed air, and air passes through without any issues.
I removed the interior light and switch panel to have a closer look. The water seems to be coming from directly above the sunroof motor, rather than running in from either side. The foam around the interior light was wet, but nowhere else that I could see.
I also noticed something interesting when looking into the sunroof opening from the outside. With the wind deflector pushed down, there's a gap between the plush-covered edge of the roof opening and the black plastic sunroof cassette underneath. After the car wash, there was still some water sitting in that area. I tried blowing compressed air into the gap and could feel a slight draft inside, right above the motor. When I poured water directly into that area with a watering can, it immediately started dripping inside from above the motor.
So I think I'm getting pretty close to finding the culprit. My guess is that the pressure from the car wash dryers forced water through that gap.
The thing is, I've never noticed this before, and I haven't come across anyone mentioning a similar issue. Has anyone experienced something like this? And if this really is the culprit, what's the proper way to seal it? Would butyl or something similar do the job?
I'd rather avoid lowering the headliner if possible, especially since the leak seems to be coming from such a specific spot.
Any ideas or experiences would be much appreciated. Thanks!
r/e39 • u/-V-A-N-O-S- • 1d ago
Thought I'd share my latest tinker. I recently disassembled a BMW engine and will later rebuild it but in the mean time I'm putting the crankshaft and other bits into storage for a while and as it'll inevitably get moved around I wanted it protected.
Designed special ends for it to be stored upright and held in the center of the case away from the walls. Decided on holes through the middle to add strength instead of bothering with infill. Roughly cut up some plywood and printed the clips for the sides, didn't need these to be strong, just to hold it together while it mostly sits on a shelf.
Doused every angle of the crank in a coat of Lanolin and entombed it floating in its fancy new sarcophagus.
Printed in petg at 270c. 6x walls, 6x top and bottom, alternating extra wall, 15% infill. Final weight is about 25kg.
r/e39 • u/FeelingAct9500 • 18h ago
Basically I just went on a road trip and had these scans show up.
The first two photos were after I drove about 900km, which I asked ChatGPT about and it said I could try clear the codes and see if they come back. I only found out about the code because I saw the check engine light.
The next 6 showed up after driving back (so after driving maybe around 1000km since the original codes)
The engine doesn’t run badly or anything the cars basically still running mint and there’s no warning lights I just scanned my car to see what’s up.
Also another thing I’m not sure if its related but the codes only showed up under a diagnostics scan not obd2 scan.
Any tips would help.
2002 E39 530i manual btw if that helps
r/e39 • u/fkneddie666 • 1d ago
Was able to get some time with some friends to work on the wagon, installed rear over fenders new one front fenders. Still need to address some other things, but we’re coming along. Finally motivated to work on this more…
r/e39 • u/glm1986italy • 1d ago
che dite, la E39 rimane meravigliosa anche da bagnata 😬
r/e39 • u/EndDifficult4755 • 1d ago
I have a 99 540i and the previous owner messed up the hood, I’m looking for Orient blue metallic color in specific. Color code 317. If anyone can help me out that would be much appreciated!
r/e39 • u/888_888_ • 22h ago
Does anyone have experience with repairing the MkIV navigation module? Mine has recently started making noise and causing the radio screen to freeze, stay dark (backlight still on), or get stuck in a boot loop (bmw logo displays indefinitely). The radio is still functional, plays music fine and can be controlled through steering wheel controls. I thought I’d try and gather some perspective before I go ahead and pop it open and see what’s going on inside, I have read that these old modules are prone to poor solder joints and individual component failures that take form the radio.
Any info or documentation you can link me to would be appreciated! I just want the screen to work since it’s in really good condition and I was planning on installing BlueBus for Bluetooth+ upgraded functionality until this issue started.
Thanks in advance!
r/e39 • u/ScreenNo3116 • 20h ago
I have the engine and gearbox out of the car, and before putting everything back together, I want to check the condition of the clutch to see if it’s worth replacing.
What is the best way to determine if the clutch is still in good shape?
r/e39 • u/microwaveexeeig • 1d ago
Having trouble finding this one; it's different than the ones I see on eBay. It sticks out much less on the sides where it hugs the bumper and is overall more subtle than those. If anyone has a link or anything, that would be very appreciated.
r/e39 • u/Agitated-Purpose-660 • 2d ago
I’m looking to buy a 540i; it is Topaz Blue over Gray Montana
the car needs work: suspension, radio is inop, front headlights are out, cooling system needs done for sure, motor and transmission mounts, and abs lights due to the module being replaced but not coded back in, and a couple of windows don’t work. The owner is firm at 4700 Car has 212k miles on it, but it is in very good condition, interior and exterior. Guides and tensioners have been done about 3 years ago. I’m an e46 guy more than anything, just looking for some insight to see if this thing is worth it or keep waiting to find a low-mileage one later.
r/e39 • u/jelani97 • 1d ago
r/e39 • u/Ornery-Sample-3208 • 1d ago
My front discs have rusted to my hubs - has anyone won a similar battle?
I’ve tried penetrating oil, mallet on back of disc, hammer on disc hat. Going to try a deadblow hammer next but after that I’m out of ideas…
r/e39 • u/Willing-Dare1167 • 1d ago
hey everyone, two weeks ago i became the owner of a 2002 530d touring. Never had a diesel before, but i found it strange that even at full throttle, under 2000rpm there is barely any torque, and after 2000-2200 the car spools up and starts flying. Apparently, peak torque should arrive at around 1700rpm, but for me, anything under 2000 feels like driving a 1.6 N/A gas car. I assume the variable geometry system is faulty, i checked it’s rodding, which seems to be working well, isn’t getting stuck anywhere, and springs back into place. Vacum hoses dont feel stiff or cracked to the touch, though i haven’t removed them for a thorough inspection yet. Any recommendations or ideas?
r/e39 • u/ZoeSky553 • 1d ago
My M54b22 has been running roughly lately and suddenly the check engine light went on and the power was greatly reduced, felt like one or more cylinders stopped firing (which was correct). I have changed the spark plugs already but they weren't the issue, so i tried an OBD-II plug and don't really know what all that means.
Here is the whole Document:
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: BMW
============1==============
P0300
Raw code: 0300
ECU: 12
Status:
Steht aus
Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
============2==============
P1351
Raw code: 1351
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
============3==============
P1345
Raw code: 1345
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation
Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-Off
============4==============
P1347
Raw code: 1347
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Fuel Level Sensor B Range / Performance
Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 3 with Fuel Cut-Off
============5==============
P0300
Raw code: 0300
ECU: 12
Status:
Bestätigt
Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
r/e39 • u/Touringe39 • 1d ago
Any creative ideas about how to find part #51220402750 right rear door seal? I’m coming up blank in my search for both new and used.
