Before and after

Just a follow up from the other day with some more details if anybody cared to know.

Bike is a 2013 Streetbob:

Thrashin Supply 6.5" pullback risers with High Bend bars

Early model Vrod front forks

Night Rod front wheel wrapped in a 120/70/19

SMT og11 rear wheel 18x5.5" wrapped in a 180/55/18

Current M8 softail brake calipers

Arleness 15" big brake kit on front, matching 11.5" rear rotor

Dyna dual disc master cylinder, ABS still working.

Lowrider gauges

Lapera seat

SPC exhaust

S&S test drop air cleaner

Farrow's custom's crash bar (Australian made)

Touring Tank Badges

Ignition coil relocation setup

Custom dynamics rear license plates bracket.

Custom paint I did myself

Flo Motorsports foot controls and Pegs and Levers

Probably missed something somewhere.

No engine work yet but that's next as I'm running out of stuff to do

Ive never been a fan of how the horn looks on big twins, just looks like clutter to me and I want it gone. I can probably count on one hand the number of times I’ve actually used it as revving my engine is typically a better way of getting peoples attention anyway. Thinking about just taking it all apart, hitting the connectors with heat shrink to protect them, and tucking them back or zip tying them so they cant be seen. I think it really cleans up the primary side of the bike.

Hey there, Im hoping someone or others who may have tried this could give me all the ins and outs to achieve a full 103 drivetrain swap into my 2003 Dyna.

I already understand the motor mounts are the same, CPS connector needs to change on harness along with regulator plug on the harness side, then plan on blocking the ACRs and either doing EZ start cams or manual compression release valves and keeping the bike carbureted.

Motor to chassis and harness seem to be the most straight forward part of it all, however where I think things will get tricky is me wanting to keep the OE 2003 swingarm mostly for esthetics, and I assume there would need to be some modifications made which I’m not too concerned about as long as they are reasonable modifications/ fabrication such as spacing or swingarm shaft customization.

To note I am aware the 88 is a good motor, I’m more concerned about preservation of it on an already tired +80k mile motor, and I have a donor 103 drivetrain with 4500 miles on it that I practically got for free.

I personally like the newer drivetrain but also intend on addressing the trans issues by having A1 treat it, and doing a balance and welded crank so I can eliminate serviceable camchest components and go with a gear drive cam.

Any helpful information would be greatly appreciated. Sadly most comments I’ve receive were of either no relevance or questioning my choice to do so. So, to answer those questions ahead of time, 1, because I can and want to, 2, it’s fun to do something a bit different, 3, because I like that motor and don’t want to risk the OE motor, 4, because it’s worth the challenge.

What would you do if you were getting crazy trade value on your 16,346 mile ‘17 Dyna Street Bob towards a new lowrider s? Like an OTD difference of 9500? Would you take it or keep the Dyna? I’ve heard of people recently getting these good deals now that the end of year is approaching, but it’s actually happening now and I’m at a stand still.

702 miles round trip love this thing

Anyone in the chat in Pueblo ?

Have primary, transmission, front forks , triple tree, front wheel , harness and frame

Hi, I have a 2003 fxdl, which I am thinking of getting a Ness fairing for and have looked at the street syndicate V2 bracket.

The Dyna has the instrument lights (idiot lights) mounted on the brow. Does the mount clash with the idiot lights?

Looking to buy the exhaust in the first two pics, said it came of a 1998 fxdsc. Will it fit my 1994 dyna? The normal bracket I’ve seen is an L shape but I just can’t tell.. last pic is the bolting area on my bike, someone lmk thanks

my bike came with no tach. That’s fine. Has anyone ever added one? I would like to be able to see the RPM And when I’m redlining

What is everyone doing to relocate the Dummy light? This setup won’t clamp the bars properly. Can’t mount it under/through the riser it’s a blind hole.

I’m planning on getting 6 1/2 inch pullback risers with a mid Bend bar from thrashin for my 2015 Dyna Lowrider. Do I need/have to do any wiring extensions or any extensions for the brake or clutch lines?

I’m bidding on this 2010 Fxd and if the price is right I’ll get her on the road again but not sure how bad the damage actually is as the auction photos are always terrible quality.

So I’m pretty well versed on auction Harley’s but specifically carburated dynas, that being said I’ve read about these having (unlike carb dynas) some type of security system for the ignition or something along those lines. How true is that and is there any bypass that will avoid going to a dealer/key specialist for this? Unfortunately a lot of these auction vehicles do not come with keys so that’s one concern.

For an EFI dyna I’m not sure at what price point should I stop bidding as one thing I noticed about this bike is that it has practically no aftermarket parts, which usually means a harder and less valuable part out if all else fails.

I’ve never owned an EFI dyna so hopefully she’s salvageable and the learning curb is on par with what I’m familiar with. I can definitely see myself keeping this one if everything can get fixed at a reasonable price point.

Thanks yall any feedback is appreciated.

Hey guys, I have a 2005 FXDCI and picked up a set of V-Rod shocks cheap. My 1999–2005 Dyna service manual lists 25–40 ft-lb (34–54 Nm) for both the upper and lower shock mounting nuts. Does that sound correct, especially when using V-Rod shocks? Should I use blue Loctite as well? Thanks!

If this isn’t allowed I apologize, I have a 2014 fxdb as stated in the title. I got it as a frame and parts, wiring harness still routed in the frame. I have a service manual and am pretty mechanically inclined but I want to avoid as much unnecessary work as possible.

what is the normal order of install for larger parts (trans, engine, swingarm, mounts, fenders) thank you.

Just installed a SMT 18x5.5x rear wheel on my Dyna and all I can say is the quality and fitment from SMT is perfect, bit pricey but it was easy and damn it looks good.

Mag wheels on my Dyna done and proper motor work next 😎

Coming from an EVO 883, this thing rips. I don’t care if it’s only an 88”!

Looking for ideas. I bought a spc lanesplitter 2-1 for my 2011 dyna wide glide. Absolutely love the exhaust it is the fitment over the oil fill cap that I just can’t fix. I had 3 different shops adjust it to finally get clearance in front of the cam cover which now has about 1/8 inch gap. I did what Spc told me to do. Loosen everything up push down and forward on the muffler and tighten back up back to front and still 1/8 inch over the oil fill cap. Got the front cam cover space but still blocks the oil fill by a lot. Been told to buy low profile dipstick or push plug for it or shave it down but wondering if anyone else has ideas or have similar experience and how they fixed this. Thanks

Anyone in indiana interested in buying a set of these for $150. I posted to market place but haven't had any interested.

I bought a 2016 FXDWG last week, and realized after, that there were some expensive shocks on it.
Can anyone help me figure out the best adjustment for them?
Should the shock be compressed more or go back up the thread?
I’m 6’3” and 190lbs. I feel it’s a little too bouncy going over tracks and bumps.