I'll spare the sob story, long story short; I've been either busy or depressed lately, I let my bike sit for about 5 weeks. The battery died somehow on the solar charger (like, no voltage) and I'm concerned I let the carb gunk up (new to Dizzer life)

It's a nice sunny day here in B.C., but I'm struggling to find the motivation to go bump start it and give her a once over before a ride this weekend, so I thought I'd make a light-hearted post here.

Should I get off my ass and cure my depression with some curvy roads, or should I sit in my dark basement suite and continue to be sad? Feel free to clown around in the replies, I won't take anything too seriously. Happy riding guys!

2024 SM; detailer claimed to have used a degreaser on these anodized aluminum rims, and how it seems some of the finish has been stripped off.

According to my research, this can happen with high PH degreasers and the damage is permanent. Some anodized rim owners on various forums have also reported something similar.

What do you think I should do?

Finally copped a 26 400e fresh off the showroom floor

This bike brings me so much joy, can't wait to ride!

Drz400s 2006. Connected to carb(yellow hose), head (black hose) and has a vent thing below. Says Mikuni but no numbers. Any ideas and knowledge appreciated!

id be interested in knowing what fender this is, i bought it second hand so thats why im uncertain. please lmk.

Getting my front and rear suspension taken care of. I plan on cleaning, inspecting, greasing :

swing arm bolt/bearings

all dogbone bearings and seals

Steering stem/triple tree bearings top and bottom

what else should I get at while I’m in there?

https://www.instagram.com/kenpucula

There’s a slight gap between the carb and the boot. I’ve messed with everything for hours but I just can’t get the carb to stay put when I tighten everything. Is it okay to run it like this or will it cause a lean condition? I’m at my wits end and just want to ride the damn thing

Stock petcock went bad replaced with raptor petcock I drilled it out and put a 90 degree brass fitting in it. Flow is fine and no kinks in the line. Replaced spark plug as well. Carb was cleaned a few months ago with and I put a JD jet kit in.

Plugged up the vacuum line and checked the fuel cap as well.

Quickly accelerating bike bogs and sputters like crazy but won’t quite die no real power. Unable to get to 60 mph and I used to rip this thing all the time just fine with the last petcock

Bike backfires like crazy on decel

Bike has an exhaust took snorkel out but didn’t do the 3x3 mod. Again ran fine with last petcock

Leaning to put a full bottle of sea foam in the tank and running that through and then taking carb apart but any other obvious things I’m missing?

I’m a noob so any insight is appreciated.

I got myself a 2010 DR-Z400S about four weeks ago, coming from a Versys-X 300.

The bike is amazing. I’m having much more fun on trails with this bike.

Being 6'1" (185 cm) with really long legs and arms, I found the standing position on the DR-Z rather cramped. For me, the main issue is the horizontal distance between the footpegs and handlebars. Those of you familiar with MTB sizing, I’m basically talking about the reach measurement.

The first thing I got was risers that move the bars forward, and I think this is important for other tall riders as well. Simply adding regular risers actually moves the bars closer to you, making the standing position even more horizontally cramped.

The forward-moving risers required me to 3D-print some spacers under the display cluster and replace the bolt there with a longer one, but that worked out well.

I really felt that the footpegs should be farther back to give me a good standing position. This is kind of confirmed by the newly redesigned DR-Z4S, which has its footpegs 2.4 cm (0.94 in) farther back.

JNS Engineering sells footpegs that move the pegs back on the DR-Z, but they’re really expensive and lower the pegs more than I would like. So I thought, how hard can it be to make some myself?

I ordered some steel pegs online, bought some steel, and went to work. I hadn’t welded anything in about 30 years, and I had a lot of fun working on this. You can see the results in the photos below.

These are now about 3 cm (1.18 in) farther back and 1.5 cm (0.59 in) lower. I’ve only done one quick test ride in a nearby parking lot so far, but it feels so much better when standing.

I wear size 13 US boots (about EU 47–48), so I have no issues reaching the brake pedal or shifter.

There may be some issues when I drop the bike, though. The pegs can’t move nearly as far up and back as the original ones.

Hey team, I bought a DRZ400sm probably about 2 years ago (my first bike ever) and it’s been the best thing ever. Only work I’ve done is tail lights and blinkers and a yoshi exhaust. The bike had a rebuild before I owned it (2,000+ miles ago). It sat through the winter and I haven’t been ripping it too much this summer. I was riding last week for about 50 miles or so and the engine got kinda hot from what I was feeling, bogged and died on me. When trying to restart, the starter clicks and the engine makes a singular thunk noise then nothing. Fear of it being locked I haven’t played with it too much. Dip stick has a slight smell of fuel…..I’m dumping the oil tomorrow and going to start stripping it to see what I can see but has anyone else had this experience or anybody have a guess to what I’m looking at? Also open to recs lol

Hello from Australia!
Ive come into the issue with valve clrearence, looking for advice on how to move foward.
Had a valve clearnce adjustment done roughly 1 year ago and have done about 1000km of riding in that time.
When it was done it was great, started first go every time, and was not notified of worn parts from the shop (very reputible shop in my area)
after some time of the bike sitting (5 months maybe over winter) its back to not cold starting
i decided to check the valves
absalue 0 tolorence on the intake side (exhust in spec)
It looks like after trying to adjust it to spec, I'm strongly suspicious that both intake valves have receded into the cylinder head
(yes the motor is at TDC)
Whats the next best move?
im more than comfortable wonking on motors coming from working on car motors
should i take the head to a machine shop?
get a new head?
Try a seccond hand head?
what would a machine shop typicaly charge for this job?

thanks in advance :D

Edit:

The thread is about "Pedals" instead of a misstyped "Levers". If a mod could fix it, i'd appreciate it enormously.

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Hey!

Im looking for adjustable shift/brake pedals so I can install a 2cm rearwards/downwards footpegs on the DRZ4s.

So I was thinking that if there are adjustable pedals, there is no way there are available for the DRZ4s.

But maybe/probably for the DRZ400s since it already has a few decades of active service and quite popular too.

So, are the pedals interchangeable between the two different generations and who creates adjustable pedals?

Trying to wrap up my build in the next few weeks.. going to post updates in the comments as I put everything together.. project has already gone on far too long so yall help keep me motivated!

Are there any arguments against removing the air box snorkel if most riding is road riding the SM? ECU flashed by Moore and they’re saying it’s completely fine.

any ideas on best fix? was gonna just replace the case

I was considering attaching mini turn signals to these tabs. Any reason I shouldn't? I can't seem to figure out what their purpose is.