Don’t know how many know but DO NOT buy auto parts at the walk-up counter at dealers. There is in-store pricing and a significant discount for buying online and picking up the same part online.

https://autoparts.toyota.com

Que piensan que es amigos

A Tesla aggressively cut into my lane. I braked as hard as I could, but I ended up hitting them anyway. The damage is minor, but it’s still noticeable (ugh, I was taking such good care of my ‘Rolla). Do you know what I can do to cover it up? Or how much it would cost to fix it? I live in East Texas.

Wondering if anyone has ever replaced the subframe on a 2005 Toyota Corolla. Can’t find any videos on it, just want to know what needs to be done to do it.

Was replacing the front control arm, bolt was seized to the old bushing only thing I could do was to grind the subframe so I could grind the bushing off.

Any info helps, thanks.

Hey guys, Im going to check out this Corolla on Saturday. Anything in particular to look out for? If I take it on a test drive I will check for the clutch slipping and rust, but maybe there is other common issues you fellas know about that I can quickly check?

Maintenance history seems pretty good but Ill go over it again tomorrow when I am at work (at least whatever is on carfax). Single owner, no reported accidents, under 80k km for $10500 CAD before taxes and fees. Should be around 12600 after fees.

Its been on the lot for just under 60 days, so maybe I can negotiate price as I will be paying cash.

Also, it says it has the bluetooth option but it is a CE. How is the bluetooth functionality on these and should I just get an aftermarket head unit with Android Auto? Obviously going to tint, get rain guards and rustproof. Comes with winters on rims which is a huge boon.

Here is the link to the listing https://azmotors.ca/cars/used/2012-toyota-corolla-601229

It's always on when the lights are on. Never heard anyone talk about it but just noticed it as I was hotboxing my CC

Awhile back I noticed my key fob wouldn’t always lock my driver’s door all the others would lock though. It was sporadic enough I didn’t worry about it. Now it’s gotten to the point sometimes none of the doors lock and even the interior button won’t work. It’ll lock fine if I put the key in the lock and turn it, it’ll lock or unlock just the drivers door or all the doors. Where should I start to diagnose this? Key fob battery was replaced in the last year or so.

26 SE Hybrid AWD, Wind Chill Pearl, 4800 miles, Ceramic tint all around, IMO a very nice aftermarket stereo with Dynamat in the doors, Katzkin heated and cooled leather seats. All said and done about a $40k Rolla and my first brand new car, so I'm very picky about it.

Had it at the dealership for the first oil change and tire rotation, and they scratched all my wheels. Aren't they supposed to use one of those plastic coated sockets on the impact gun to avoid this exact issue? When I worked at Valvoline many years ago we sure did.

I admit the scratches are very minor, but there's quite a few of them, it's a brand new vehicle, and this could have and should have been avoided. The dealership is being rather cavalier about it, and just saying "If we did it, we'll take care of it." I have sent them pics and I'm meeting with the service manager tomorrow.

Anyone ever deal with something similar?

Any ideas on how much this will cost to fix?

2008 Corolla ce…. A dream to drive but man the engine gets LOUD when going that speed. Besides that quiet as can be… I try and get myself away from that because of the noise. Seems like only I notice it, but I can wait to get to 60+ on the freeway😅

Hey everyone, I need some help figuring out the correct front-right complete strut for my 2009 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L.

My VIN starts with 2T1, so the car was built in Canada.

I’m looking at two options on RockAuto:

• MONROE 472597 Quick-Strut – RockAuto says “USA Built Vehicle” only.
• TOP NOTCH ABS1018R – RockAuto says it fits US, Canada & Mexico-built Corollas.

I would prefer the Monroe because it's a more reputable brand, but I'm not sure if the USA-built restriction means it physically won't fit my Canadian-built Corolla, or if the US and Canadian-built cars use the same strut.

I’ve also seen differences mentioned between 8 mm and 10 mm upper strut-mount studs, especially with Japan-built Corollas, which has made this more confusing.

Does anyone know if Monroe 472597 will fit a Canadian-built (2T1 VIN) 2009 Corolla, or should I stick with the Top Notch ABS1018R that specifically lists Canadian-built cars?

Looking for the front-right/passenger-side complete strut assembly.

Thanks!

Tengo un problema con mi Corolla 1997 AE101 el cual hace un tiempo empezó a tener problemas con la dirección la cual absorbe demasiado las irregularidades del camino, alguien sabrá a qué se deba la falla se a cambiado el tren delantero completo y sigue la falla, lo único que no sé a tocado en la Cremallera de dirección.
Adjunto video del problema que tengo

I have a 2024 Toyota Corolla SE, and I noticed that the car does faint rattling sounds at low speeds, specifically when I drive over road imperfections, such as bumps. It sounds like it is coming from somewhere around the front tires. I was wondering if it was in issue with a loose sway bar link, ball joints, etc. Let me know what you think.

Hello,
I have a 2018 Toyota Corolla.
I replaced my car battery in May 2023.

Last night Oct 21st 2026.
At 6pm. I'm heading out and I go downstairs to start my car, and nothing comes on. Nothing. Last time I drove was 2 nights prior and came home at 10pm that night, so approx 44 hours later.
I immediately think "What did I leave on??"
Fortunately, I have a remote booster in my trunk. Pop it on the battery, and the car starts.
The clock time is still correct. Everything comes back on normally.
I check inside the vehicle and the dome light is on auto, and the overhead driver and passenger lights are set to off. So I'm not sure why it's dead.

I let the engine run for about 10minutes before getting on the road/highway to my destination 30min away.
As I'm on the road heading to my destination, suddenly the "electric power steering warning light" comes on for less than second, with a warning sound (like the same sound when you're approaching the car in front of you too quickly) and the radio suddenly resets.
I think "Ughh okay, something is seriously wrong"

I reach my destination, turn off the engine and the car goes dark. No dome light.
I get out and lock the car, and there's no headlights (the headlights stay on until I push the lock button) and the horn makes a very faint honk.
"Great.." I think

Come back 90min later, I start the car. Nothing. The Toyota animation display lights up in the dashboard, but it's dimming on and off.

So I boost the car again. It works.
I leave the area I'm in and instead of driving 15min home (8.8 miles/14.2km), I take the very long way. (23.8miles / 38.3km). Figuring "Okay, lemme drive for awhile to really boost up the battery"

I get home. Engine off. The dome lights are still on. Headlights stay on.
I push the lock button, and it locks properly. Proper honk. Everything is normal.
Walk away, come back. Push unlock, everything lights up normally. Push lock, everything shuts down normally.

Hour later, I go back downstairs.
Car will crank but won't start.

I suspect the battery, but it's not even been 3 and a half years?

I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla LE with 135,000 miles.
I recently had both front strut assemblies and both front sway bar end links replaced. After the repair, I noticed a very slight, deeper/rougher engine sound when the car is stopped in Drive (D) with my foot on the brake.
The sound goes away when I shift into Park (P) or Neutral (N). The car drives normally, shifts normally, and I don’t notice any unusual vibrations, warning lights, or other problems.
I’m not sure if the sound was there before the repair because I was previously focused on a different noise coming from the front suspension.
Does anyone know what could cause this? Could it be normal engine load in Drive, an engine or transmission mount, an exhaust resonance, or possibly something related to the timing chain tensioner?
I’ve attached a video of the sound. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

This car is so basic and I hate it and wish I would have bought a camry or an accord. This car is a drag to drive in 45 min commute to work every day. It's up for sale right now. Noone wants to buy it. It hate it. The engine vibrates on the highway. The engine drones at 3.7k RPM at 75mph.

Found on cars dot com (idk of we are allowed to link sales here)

‘23 SE Hybrid. Truck ran a red on my green and smacked into my front passenger side going about 45-50 mph. I was going about 15 mph and was already turning into my lane when he flew by. Geico estimated about $4k to repair. Everything seems like it shifted to the left and im getting some system warnings about my wheels.

Which one do you guys like? I personally love the 2020-2022 Corolla with the J-shaped headlights. It looks pretty fire 🔥 at night time.

I just bought new wipers for my car and they have the Toyota logo on them. It’s the little things.

2022 Corolla apex. Manual supposedly 1 of 120. Just about to hit 75,000 miles.

Coilovers, exhaust, square 265s. Been to the track, snow, and everything in between. Great rig ask me anything.