I bought a 2007 corolla from a friend for $500 almost a year ago. It's been a good car, and I know they're known for being reliable. I have had to put a decent amount of money into it since I have bought it, but that was expected, it was $500... I almost think it's worth it to fix my immediate problem, but when I talk to people about my car, most of them look at me like I'm crazy 😭 Also, I just took it to the mechanic today, but I need to bring it back for something unrelated, and it's making me feel embarrassed thinking about how much I'm fixing a 20 year old car.

When I bought the car I knew it needed work on the brakes. I didn't know how much work it needed on the brakes though, and it was a lot. I had the pads, rotors, calipers, and brake shoes done. $1300, I'm in a hcol area but it did feel a little high. But I've been to a different mechanic for everything else.

I also knew that something was off with the suspension, cause it makes some weird noises while I'm driving, but at first it was really infrequent. Then it got more frequent, but when I took it to get it looked at, they said it would need to be fixed eventually, but it wasn't urgent.

I took my car to have a very small oil leak fixed today. I do check my oil level regularly and it really was a very small leak. It only cost me $250, but the mechanic noticed another small leak. They said it isn't urgent and I can just keep checking it, but it would cost $450 to fix, and they would want to clean the outside of the engine which would be $200.

The immediate problem is that on my way home from the mechanic, the noise from my suspension sounded really bad, and my car was noticeably pulling to the left. When they looked at the suspension a few months ago they said it was the control arm bushings that were worn. They said it makes sense to replace the control arms and ball joints at the same time because they're sold together, but they didnt give me an estimate for it then. But I have a feeling it's going to cost a good amount...

So I'm at 1300 for brakes, 250 for the one oil leak, and I'm guessing around 1000 for the suspension stuff... plus 650 for the other oil leak eventually. I definitely couldn't find a car that's any better for that price, and I can't afford the amount it would cost to buy a better car. But I can probably afford to the fix the suspension! Is it worth it for a 20 year old car, if it's a toyota? Other than this stuff, the only issues I'm aware of are maybe the alternator and the struts. I feel comfortable doing the alternator myself. Idk about the struts, I'm not that worried about it and the mechanic I go to now isn't worried about them either, but the mechanic that did my brakes made it sound like life or death.

If I didn't fix it I would go back to taking the bus because I can't afford a better car, but I mostly like having a car.

In all seriousness. Some people stink. I was lightly rear-ended while sitting at a red light. The woman was clearly distracted. I'm sure insurance will take care of it no problem, but it sucks driving around like this.

Im looking to buy used Corolla hatchback. 1.8 122 HP 4th gen. Only thing that stops me is a fact that i maliny do long routes with the speed around 120 km/h. I m asking about fuel economy and noise.

Hello first time poster and I have something that's really confusing me. My 2010 with the 1.8 and manual transmission it has almost 200k miles.

Whenever I start it up it starts fine then idles down to about 1k then it'll dip down to about 5 to 600 rpms then go back up or just stall itself out.

I've replaced all spark plugs and all 4 coils and replaced the fuel pump and I've cleaned all the fuel injectors. It sounds like it has a massive misfire even after replacing all that and my obd2 reader is still saying it has a cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking my air to fuel mixture is messed up but looking at other forums it says my air ratio is fine at idle and while driving it's normal. Please help me.

In the US, Toyota has always sold the Corolla as a cheap reliable sedan with barebone features and a hatchback version of it. But in India, the last batches of Corollas were called Corolla Altis and looked so much more different, premium and a grown up sedan as compared to its American counterpart. Also whether it is Civic or Corolla, the Indian market has always had features to make its back seat experience big and luxurious while the American counterpart’s backseats have always been cheap.
Why didnt the US ever get the Corolla Altis or the South Asian market got the same American Corolla?

Hi all, first time Toyota Corolla owner here and loving it! However lately I've noticed some seemingly odlorless leakage. This appears to normal as a result of ac condition per Google but I haven't used the ac lately. The drops are slow and appear on both driver and passenger sides but seen more on passenger side. Is this still normal or should I get it checked? Any info helps and is much appreciated.

While it doesn't entirely prevent catalytic converter theft, thieves will likely move on to an easier target. I own a hybrid which has the Prius powertrain, and Prius converters are being targeted constantly.

25600 otd

Solid deal?

What have you guys been getting

Hi, I'm looking for my first car, and I've got my eyes on a Corola Se 2018. I am a teacher in two schools, so I drive around 40-ish miles every day.

The thing is I don't want my paycheks to vanish in gas. So considering it is (i think) a sport version, does that car make sense as a daily commuter?

I drive mostly on roads (not highways nor cities)

(Will add pics once I get home later on)
I have a set of 2020 LE wheels just gathering dust in my basement. They came off a Corolla that had been bought new and I drove on them for maybe three or four months before getting a different set. That car has since been totaled when someone tried to turn left out of a shopping center by cutting through a line of cars stopped at a red light that were blocking the exit/entrance. He didn’t see me coming and I didn’t see him - he just popped out from in between the cars stopped to my left and that was that. So needless to say I have absolutely no use for them. $500 and buyer pays shipping. I’ll add pics when I get home tonight.

I know this topic has been discussed a few times, but unfortunately, now it’s happening to me. The paint on my 2020 Corolla is peeling badly on the hood and front bumper.

I’m looking for recommendations on the best way to fix it. Has anyone tried wrapping it themselves, taking it to a body shop for a repaint, or going with another option?

I’ve tried using the touch-up paint pen, but honestly, it doesn’t look good and doesn’t really solve the problem.

If anyone has dealt with this issue, I’d appreciate any advice or recommendations on what worked best for you. Thanks!

I have had my Corolla for just over a year now, and both last fall and winter, and now this fall, I am having a battery drain issue where my battery just drains over night. It was fine throughout the whole summer, but as soon as the tempurature outside goes below double digits, the battery drains, and will not start in the morning. After a boost it will run fine throughout the rest of the day. I've already replaced the battery, and it continued to do it.

Lights come on still, I can get the car into Accessory, and Ignition On, but it refuses to crank. It just clicks 5-10 times.

Is it safe to assume that its the DCM issue, and it needs to be updated? Or I just happened to have 2 bad batteries consecutively?

Edit: What I'm referring to https://www.reddit.com/r/Toyota/s/CO2ZSPEWin

Hi all,

I'm looking at a used 2025 corolla LE. The dealership sent me a cold start video of the vehicle. Does it sound normal?

Thanks!

After my 2010 Nissan Versa broke down with transmission issue. I had to get a car which is reliable. Toyota is undoubtedly a reliable brand in North America however the cost of buying a used Toyota car was not justified. So I bought a brand new Toyota Corolla LE upgrade.

I have a 2025 Toyota Corolla Cross LE 2WD with approximately 15,000 miles, purchased brand new.
I recently had a four-wheel alignment performed at a Toyota dealership. While the front alignment improved, all the rear alignment measurements remained virtually unchanged.
My right rear camber is still at -1.4° (marked red), compared to -0.7° on the left rear.
The service advisor told me that -1.4° is still within an acceptable threshold, even though the alignment report indicates otherwise.
I understand that rear camber may not be factory-adjustable on this vehicle, but I'm concerned about the difference between the left and right sides.
I'm returning to the dealership this week for further evaluation.
Has anyone with a Corolla Cross experienced a similar rear camber issue? Could this be normal factory tolerance, or should I request a rear suspension inspection under warranty?
I'd appreciate any insights from Toyota technicians or Corolla Cross owners.

Thanks for any comments!!

Probably a stupid question, and this could apply to any new car, but is there a way to actually "upload" or transfer mp3 files from a USB drive ( or phone ) to the cars touch screen computer so the music is permanently there? I know you can plug a USB in and it will read the files and play it like that... same with an mp3 player... and of course you can use Bluetooth ( but the quality imo sucks compared to just plugging in a mp3 player/USB drive)

I kind of feel like you SHOULD be able to do this... it would be much more convenient and less hassle to play music rather than messing with your phone every time you drive your car... like what would be so hard for a car manufacturer to add a small hard drive for this purpose

After talking with a fellow redditor about factory warranty coverage of the slave cylinder this is what i found. After doing some research im seeing that the corolla uses a concentric slave cyclinder. By most definitions this is considered an interal transmission part since its inside the bell housing. These concentric slave cylinders are sometimes called internal concentric slave cylinders because you have to remove part of/the entire transmission to access the part.

Toyotas factory warranty booklet states : Transmission and Transaxle "Transmission and Transaxle Case and ALL INTERNAL PARTS, torque converter, clutch cover, transmission mounts, transfer case and ALL INTERNAL PARTS, engine control computer, seals and gaskets"

So it shouldve been covered by the factory warranty 36 month/36,000 miles. I dont know how many of these actually failed during that time. I also dont know how any "factory" extended warranties work that were purchased when the vehicle was new but its something to look into for $2,000-$6,000!