Just wanted to hop on this subreddit and make a post about my new-to-me E-Tron GT.

I bought this car back in December 2025 when it had 9k miles. It was a very impulsive purchase and I am generally not an impulsive person. I was driving a 2025 model 3 before this. I only went in for a test drive and ended up purchasing the car lol. I also did end up purchasing an extended warranty for a peace of mind.

I bought this car in Fremont when I was living in the Bay Area. I have since moved to Southern California and made multiple road trips from NorCal to SoCal and vice versa. The car now sits at 25.5k miles so I have put about 16k miles in ten months. This is the most I’ve ever driven in the span of a year with any vehicle.

I absolutely love this car and it is my favorite car I’ve ever owned. I have had a 2013 Lexus ES350, 2016 Lexus RX350, Model 3, to now this car. I’m glad it was a fully spec build although I did zero research before purchasing. I kept it completely stock and no mapEV tune (for now) or any aesthetic modifications.

The only thing I wish it had was more range but newer models have a bit more range. And I wish the back seats were more spacious given the car is very long. Other than that, wonderful car and extremely grateful for this car. It’s definitely an eye-catcher and very fun to drive.

Think I'll change the brake lines for braided stainless steel next

Hey everyone,

​I recently bought this 2015 Audi Q5 2.0T. The blind spot monitoring system isn't working. When I press the button, the light doesn't turn on, and it gives me an error message. I scanned it with a diagnostic tool, but no fault codes came up.

​Does anyone have any experience with this?

Hey guys, I need help with my sunroof. I want a picture of someone’s sunroof guides on the track. If anyone can send me a picture that shows how the tracks sit with the guides. I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks

I have a 2024 Q8 with the B&O system (not the fancy rising tweeters version). I've have absolutely hated the stereo since almost day 1 and considered not even buying the Q8 with how anemic it sounds.

Anyway, the time has come and I decided to start trying to find an aftermarket stereo installer to upgrade the soundstage and that means more juice to the speakers and adding a real subwoofer instead of that shitty one in the back.

Now I know why only one guy even returned calls and agreed to meet up and see what we could do - until he decided to pass as well due to the VAG group of vehicles having locked down systems that require a one time use token to rewrite the MMI to allow for an aftermarket component.

What does that mean? It means every time the car gets serviced and the dealer does a software reset, reflash whatever you want to call it - you'd have to go get your MMI rewritten again. Which, from what I was quoted is about $600. I also saw some folks claiming every OTA software update would also trigger the need for a MMI rewrite again too - basically no consistent answers.

So for those of you that do have an aftermarket Amp installed - how did you go about doing it and do you need to rewrite the MMI often etc?

P.S. because I KNOW some of you people can't resist the urge. Yes, I have tried turning off the lame 3d sound crap and I've tried moving the focus to the front only. I tried streaming lossless and ended up switching to a USB C drive with playlists on it in lossless files. I can have it up full volume and still hear myself talking if I want to which is just shitty because I like cruising the highways with the window down and bopping tunes now that the weather is nice and with the windows down you really can't hear shit. I've instead been cruising around in my 2011 Subaru Legacy with a cheap little $1800 system I put in myself a few years ago that has a MUCH more vibrant and clear sound stage.

Hi, I live in New England where it constantly snows and the roads are terrible. I want to lower my 2019 a5 s line on h&r sport springs which would drop it about .8”, but I’m scared that it wouldn’t be as daily driveable after. I plan on putting aodhan wheels on it so those plus the springs would be perfect, but I’m still nervous about the roads. Anyone have any feedback or experience? If I threw 19 inch aodhans on would it sit flush enough that I don’t need to lower it? Thank you

hey reddit, i recently saw an audi a4 avanti 2010?? i think at a car lot for selling cars in germany the asking price was 3250 but i got it down to 3000
what do you all think?

Good Morning everyone!

Just approaching my A3’s 1-year birthday, and it’s due its first oil change and inspection.

The dealership is telling me it might be best to get a service plan, but I’m curious as to how many of you here have one for you’re Audi vehicles and whether you all think it’s worth getting?

Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping someone with experience on the B9 A4 can help me work out what might be causing my air conditioning problem before I spend $2,600 Aud replacing parts that may not be the issue.

I have a 2017 Audi A4 B9 2.0 TFSI quattro. The air conditioning was working perfectly before the car went to mechanic for a oil change and service.

During the service, a mechanic broke a coolant line connected to the coolant reservoir at the rear of the engine bay. Coolant spilled over the top of the engine and surrounding area, and the coolant reservoir emptied. Mechanic repaired the line and cleaned up the spilled coolant.

During the cleanup, they unplugged various sensors and electrical connectors around the engine bay to check for coolant and clean the affected areas. I don't know exactly which connectors were unplugged.

Immediately after picking up the car the air conditioning wasnt blowing cold air. Took it back to the mechanic where they performed an ECU reset to try to resolve issue, the A/C buttons then became greyed out and I can no longer switch it on. The heating still works and fans blow air.

I have now taken the car to multiple mechanics but none of them have been able to pinpoint the exact cause.

The fault codes and diagnostic findings so far include:

- B109E13

- refrigerant pressure test showed excessively high low pressure 350 psi

the A/C system was not running as is locked out the gauge readings were approximately 350 PSI on the low side and 140 PSI on the high side. The mechanic has drained the refrigerant from the A/C lines to prevent possible compressor or line damage.

The latest mechanic suspects the compressor has failed and has quoted around $2,600 to replace the compressor and TX valve he says might be stuck open. However, he said he is not 100 percent this is the cause and next step would be a whole new ac system.

Is there a reliable way to confirm the compressor has actually failed before replacing it and confirm it not a sensor, wiring, or adaption needed issue.

I’m approximately four hours from the nearest Audi dealer. I’m trying to narrow this down before arranging transport or spending a lot of money.

I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who has dealt with B109E13, compressor lockout or similar issues on the B9 platform.

Thanks!

Dear All,

I’ve got an issue with my car what nobody can solve, unfrotunately. From the diagnostics it says that the throttle pedal sensor has malfunction. Pedal, its wire, connectors have been all changed. When it happens I feel like the pedal doesn’t reponse than car turns to limp mode, than working fine, but only in limp mode. In hotter weather it happens more often. What we also know from the diagnostics, that the reference voltage is pretty close to the bottom limit all the time.

Has anyone ever faced this kind of issue?

Thank You in advance!

Quick question: Is this a healthy idle?
Engine is warmed up
2014 Audi a4 Quattro 2.0T 196 000km

Are there any decent aftermarket brands that would fit without headaches? I have heard that aftermarket body parts may be hard to fit right away.

Hi all, I have a 2016 Audi Q3 (35 TDI Premium Plus Quattro) and I've been having some repeated wheel speed sensor failures recently (older post regarding this), and this caused me to dig deeper into the battery condition checks with my ODB11 device (with the new app btw, not the older "OBD11 for VAG" app). In the 19. Gateway control units live data feed, I'm seeing the following numbers (exactly as it's shown in the app):

1. Channel 19:

• Power Supply (battery) : 79.0%
• Battery state of charge (soc): 80.0%
• Battery state (as shown in MMI): 67.0%
• Battery aging (derived from load): 75.0%

1. Channel 20:

• Power supply(battery): 6.2 mOhm
• Internal battery resistance (actual): 6.4 mOhm
• Internal battery resistance: 51.0 Ah
• Battery capacity (actual/available): 12.5 V

1. Channel 9:

• Voltage last engine start: 8.2 V

Now, In my internet research, apparently the internal resistance is high enough to indicate significant degradation and the 3rd metric in the channel 20 is most probably the battery's current capacity which is 51 Ah (compared to the original battery's 72 Ah) and along with the battery aging metric - it says to replace the battery as it is degraded beyond any repair.

I just wanted to get some suggestions on the same, is the numbers trustable in the first place? Should I get the battery to the battery manufacturer's outlet and get it checked by them? In any way these numbers significant enough to confidently say its 'cooked'?

Thanks.

I have a 2019 A4 Allroad with 44k miles on it. It’s probably been my favorite car that I’ve owned, but I don’t need all the cargo space anymore (originally bought so I could easily fit stroller which I don’t need anymore). Have been considering other cars recently and came across a low mileage S7 with sport package that I think I can get a pretty good deal on. Am I crazy for considering this trade? Know they are different cars, but I still like a hatchback and could go for something sportier than I currently have.

Should I upgrade my 2024 S3 to a B10 S5? How are the b10s to live with? Test drove one and loved the drive although the interior is weird and the sunroof is fixed. Both are leases.