First of all, I’m excited for the whole Q9 series, always wanted Audi to come up something that’s bigger than Q7 and compete with GLS or X7.

I don’t know if it’s an allowed to have other brand in this community, but I need some advice. Recently me and my wife came to the conclusion that we need another big family car. I’m worried that the new SQ9 will have the same problematic situation like the new A/Q5.

I want to get my brake calipers repainted on my A6, but not sure which colour would look the best. I might also get the “4 rings” audi logo sticker on each caliper. My top 3 choices so far is violet, red and orange. Let me know which colour you think would look the best, or if you have any thoughts on the sticker choices.

Audi A6 35 TDI

2019 A5 Sportback

Apr- cold air intake
CTS - catless downpipe
034- turbo inlet
O2 sensor spacer
Magniflow catback exhaust
Stage 2 unitronic Ecu (tcu not available , gen 2 trans)

Have a rear diffuser, Black honeycomb grill and a front lip in the garage pending install.

One of the downsides of direct injection is that fuel no longer washes over the intake valves like it does in port-injected engines.

Over time, oil vapors from the crankcase ventilation system can leave deposits on the intake valves, eventually restricting airflow and potentially affecting performance.

We recently had a 2011 Audi R8 V10 come in for carbon cleaning with around 40,000 miles, and the buildup was pretty noticeable.

Something interesting about these engines is that the deposits aren't always the same. Some are dry and respond well to walnut blasting, while others are oily and stubborn enough to require additional cleaning.

For this R8, we used a combination of walnut blasting, chemical cleaning, and agitation to remove the deposits.

It's one of those maintenance jobs that doesn't get talked about nearly as much as exhausts, tunes, or other performance upgrades.

For those with higher-mileage R8s or other direct-injected Audis, have you had your intake valves cleaned? Did you notice any difference afterward?

Video: Audi R8 & Lamborghini V10 Engine Carbon Cleaning

I know these 4-bolt water pumps are currently the subject of an ongoing class action lawsuit, and I'd hate for mine to go to 💩 and potentially ruin my engine, turbos, etc. Has anyone ever converted to the 6-bolt design pre-emptively? I'm at 54k miles and have a 5-year extended 3rd party warranty ... is it worth the money to avoid something more serious in the future even with the warranty in mind? What mileage is everyone seeing failure at?

https://youtu.be/D1BVoWsH9xA?si=LLJ9erqEtztU4FZ8&t=327

I bought a new Audi. At pickup, the dealership said they wanted to set up my connected services accounts. I'm in IT, so I told them it was no problem and I'd create them myself. I went home and did that.

Three days later, they called me saying the account setup was still pending on their end. I told them I was already using the myAudi app, so I was fine. They insisted, and on that call they told me they wouldn't get paid on a bonus structure unless the account was set up.

To humor them, I gave them a throwaway email address, knowing I could delete that account in the myAudi app later. After that, I saw they had enabled all the trials in the app, and the next time I started the car, software was installed.

I still don't understand why a dealer's pay would depend on my account.
My guess is it's tied to app adoption numbers, and that having every trial activated makes each delivery count as fully adopted. That's only my theory.

HRE on Vredensteins

Hey All, recentlt bought an Audi a5 and im in love with it!

Its an 2015 s line sportback with all the nice features on it. I immediately got an AMI bluetootg dongle for in the glove box slot and it worked perfect, after 3 months it started lagging and not working proper so i recently bought a new one and now its way worse.

It says my mobile is connected. Bluetooth light is constant blue. But it says that it cant read from the plugged dongle (photo(Is in Netherlands sorry ). After replugging a couple times or sometimes after 5 min of driving it says connected.

What could be the problem? Should an better dongle be the solution or better to go for an nice carplay build in the car?

English isnt my native language so sorry in advance if the grammar isnt perfect :)

Hallo meine Experten

Nach meinem letzten Reddit post habe ich viel nachgedacht und hab mich jetzt einfach dazu entschieden mein Budget etwas zu erhöhen.

Ich war schon immer ein max. Audi Fan und habe schon etwas länger den A3 im Blick.

110 Ps oder 150 Ps in Automatik, macht das einen großen Unterschied ?

Generell der Audi A3, ist er zuverlässig bzw kann icj damit langfristig glücklich werden. Er sieht schon sehr geil aus und finde das neue Cockpit ab Bj 2021 auch super. Habe einen im Blick für 22k will aber für den Preis sicher sein.

This was at Porsche Experience Center LA 10/18

I've read a few older posts with no fixes, so I'm hoping this is something that might have been resolved since.

I have a 2023 SQ5 3.0T. In sport mode (mostly), but also other modes, when I'm pressing about 10% down on the throttle there is this high pitched whistle that sounds like an air leak. If I go less, the noise goes away. If I press more, the noise goes away. It's only heard while holding at that 10% point. As long as I'm holding it there, it can even be heard downshifting/up shifting in any gear.

It's MUCH harder to hear in Drive mode, rather than Sport or Manual. I think this might have to do with the throttle mapping, but who knows. It can't be heard at all if the windows are up.

During a cold start, it can be heard without any throttle as it's warming up, but then soon dies down. This noise is LOUD and constant! For me at least. I've talked to friends and Audi dealers that can't hear it at all. I've been told this is "normal," but I've been in other Audi's and turbo vehicles where I haven't heard it.

I love this car and I think it would be perfect, but this noise is really ruining it for me. I like the windows down and hearing the exhaust but this way overpowers it.

Things I've checked/changed:
Stock Intake
PCV (seems normal)

Video: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Zj3JuX8I-OU

Good to be back in an Audi after my old RS3 got totaled out last winter. Spent the last 10 months in a Subaru WRX but the itch never went away. Some additional life changes helped push the car change a little faster too.

Hi guys just wanted to share my new to me car, it is a 2018 audi a4 Quattro with S line I believe, any tips or warnings that I should know about, as far as I know these are reliable engines if maintained properly of course but also have water pump cracking? Let me know thanks

Hey guys just wanna use this time to gather up the A8/S8 fans here. Here is my 18 A8 sport. This is my #1 favorite car I've ever owned.

Since I couldn’t find any posts to the contrary just thought I’d add a post (very hesitantly since I am not trying to put bad juju into the universe) that I have (fingers very much crossed) found success in the KD2 update resolving the gremlins that were plaguing my vehicle. Long story short, bought the car CPO and went round a bit with the dealership from day one as I actually picked up the car and the errors/faults came up. First they tried to tell me it was the battery (had not been fully charged would resolve itself). Then went straight into documenting it via email and me finding the TSB that matched the 6 exact faults that were coming up, oddly enough the seatbelts also failed again after already just being replaced by a recall (according to both the service records and carfax, they would just lock). So at this point keeping my fingers crossed but the car would shoot faults every other day pre being updated and now at a month has been error free. Time will tell. Curious if others have had their issues totally resolved post update. Thanks.

I made an initial post the other day about having not changed my car battery for the last 10 years. TLDR; I took it to the shop and the results came out to:

My car: 2017 Audi A4 2.0T

BATTERY RESULTS
MEASURED: 345 CCA
RATED: 550 CCA
TEMPERATURE: 85°F
VOLTAGE: 12.530
REPLACE BATTERY: Risk-Maximum

Battery replacement is highly recommended. Although this battery may start the vehicle. it no longer meets the minimum requirements and is likely to fail soon, especially if exposed to temperature extremes.

Your battery is approximately 35 months old and the average battery life in this area is 47-53 months.

Not really sure why it says it’s 35 months old because it definitely… is more than that lol but anyone have any thoughts on these stats? I also asked about the battery type and they use Interstate which I heard someone on the other thread say is the same as the original factory battery which is good.

Odd thing is that the shop said "Audi’s don’t have to be coded", only BMWs do, which feels contradictory to what everyone else is saying. They said they "don’t have the file" even if they could do it though so I might just need to go the dealership but that means a more expensive charge… unless I change the battery at the shop I go to and just get it coded at the dealership? I feel like that would make things more complicated though.

I'm just not really familiar with the coding piece especially. I looked online and it looks like the recommendation is to use"CDS (VAG-COM) or OBDelevent"?

Any advice would be great! Thanks!

Been looking for something to replace my p2 Volvo v70 210hp 2.5t and been looking at Audi a4 estates and manual seen one manual estate 3.0tdi for a decent price but want it in allroad package no autos…

Been looking for something to replace my p2 Volvo v70 210hp 2.5t and been looking at Audi a4 estates and manual seen one manual estate 3.0tdi for a decent price but want it in allroad package no autos…

Haven’t found an allroad manual 3.0tdi

Have found manual 3.0tdi normal estate

I’ve been able to get this far, and the light is obvious to remove. I just feel like if I tug too hard and the hatch & lock switch panel, it’s going to break. Are there any ways to unplug it from behind & are there any hidden fasteners?

I’m sound deadening the trunk is why I would like to remove it.

I have a new-to-me 2022 RS E-Tron GT that had a charger door failure preventing me from fast charging. The car is out of warranty, I bought from a third party. I DO have history with VAG (a handful of GTIs, and a 991.2). Audi USA agreed to cover a big chunk of the repair since it’s a known failure point (I assume). They had no obligation to do that, and you better believe I’ll remember this both when I decide where to get service and what cars I shop in the future.

Also, kudos to the Audi Cary team. Wonderful team to work with over there.

My 2020 A5 sportback...48,000 miles...best car I've ever owned