I debated hard between the Colt king cobra and the 617 mountain gun. I read every thing I could on the internet and searched every reddit comment on both options. It appeared that both have serious qc issues.

At my lgs, they had a 4.25" kind cobra, a 4" regular 617 and 6" 617. It was immediately apparent I didn't care for the 6" for balance. I handled the 4" regular 617 next to the king cobra and looked at all the touch points. The king cobra won that side by side pretty easily.

I told the lgs I was also considering the mountain gun and would love to handle it before I made my decision and asked if they would order one in without me conjuring to buying it and they agreed.

It came in today and pretty much every touch point was spot on. I did notice one minor blem on the finish near the back strap but bought it anyway.

Went to the range with 3 types of ammo. Overall shot 230 rounds and only had 1 failure to ignite but it ignited on the 2nd strike.

Overall very pleased with this gun.

Thank you all for the advice and understanding!

TLDR: Stock Ruger, can I achieve decent groups 1-2 moa or should I make it a shorter distance rifle with current parts?

My 10/22 journey has been an incredible one, Im in love with this rifle, its my number 1 and I plan to build on her for years to come. That being said I'm discouraged about where to go from the current configuration (first pic).

Stock 10/22 Ruger 0030-28149 so it has all the 2026 upgrades that Ruger added.

CVlife bipod

CVLife Eaglefeather 6-24x50mm

PWS FRC Compensator ( saving for a decent suppressor)

I wanted to make it as much of a precision rifle as I can for having all factory Ruger parts (1 moa or less is the true end goal) I understand to really hone it in I need aftermarket parts (KIDD, Volquartsen). I'm not against that by any means but for right now with a CVLife Eaglefeather 6-24x50mm I feel like shooting 100 yards I'm not getting tight groups with CCi as I can. I don't want to break the bank on parts so I figured ammo may help. I wanted to try SK and Eley but I'm hesitant because its all stock Ruger. I know it's still accurate which I like but tight groups look good.

I have a Vortex strike fire ii red dot and a flashlight/laser combo that is fun to shoot 25-50 yards. And if that's what my rifle is destined for in its current configuration I'll take that.

I suppose my question boils down to would I need to swap a lot of parts to get good groups at 100 and beyond or could I achieve that with better ammo?

I have been looking at bolt actions as well but I really enjoy the semi-auto 10/22 and I'm only shooting paper at the moment.

Thanks in advanced

Hello,

Just bought my first 22lr firearm.

CZ 457 American 22LR 5rd 24.8" barrel (I'm very excited)

For 9mm, people recommended that CCI/Blazer ammo was good for the range

For 12g, people recommended the Winchester AA, Federal Top Gun, Remming

What's a good brand for 22lr? Is there a specific recommendation? I see a lot of CCI 22lr ammunitions. Or is this a case of buy the cheapest one and there are no band manufactureres

Not sure if i'm asking this question properly so please go easy on me.

I have shot about 5,000 rounds of 22lr through a ruger 10/22, a cmmg conversion kit for an ar-15, and a browning buck mark.

About a year ago I got a cab so the buck mark and cmmg conversion are always suppressed.

Ammo is a mix of mini mags, cci standard velocity, and federal auto match.

Looking at a revolver and it looks like they all have some issues but want to make sure I don't send it back to factory because I have unrealistic expectations.

All this being said, what is the groups concensus if you have good ammo. Should you expect reliability to be 100/100 with no failure to fire it failure to eject?

Would you expect to shoot 300 consecutive rounds with no issues?

If you shoot 500 rounds in one session, do you notice you're in good shape for your first 300 but then reliability goes down after the gun is being fouled?

My buck mark at last testing was 100/100 on mini mags but I had 17 failures to eject with standard velocity.

17 failures is way too frustrating. I might accept 1 failure every 100 rounds for a range toy. Not sure if that is reasonable or if that is asking too much from a 22lr.

I've gone down the rabbit hole..... hard... still falling btw. I'm cross eye dominant. Right hand left eye. So I shoot rifles lefty pistol right, zero issues for the most part. Anyways. Looking to get a CZ 457 to save money on ammo but still have plenty of fun.

Was originally looking at a MTR because the wood is sexy and match chamber... but... no threaded barrel and chassis is right only not really ambi like.

Then went down the At-one rabbit hole then was like "no if I'm gonna do it let's do a lefty action" and then maybe rebarrel it with a L3i or Lilja or something when the time comes. And then maybe find a MDT chassis or something also.

So then I was onto the CZ 457 varmint lefty... I could have it threaded and find a chassis then call it a day for a bit or just rebarrel with threads and chassis.

But NOWWWWWW I'm trying to get a friend in a bolty 22lr also since he liked my Ruger precision rimfire in 22wmr. So he's been sending me links to things and now I'm back looking at the at-one 24" because its got a good looking adjustable hassis and threaded... and I'd just deal with the right hand action. Then maybe rebarrel to something better way in the future.

So my question is.... is the At-one chassis a ambi like or is it like the MTR and strictly right-handed? Also I'd you have ANY suggestions on what to do if your like me or shoot rifles lefty I'd love to hear it.

Thank you.

I have a heritage rough rider I would like to put a notch on the cylinder rod so I can pull the rod forward to drop the cylinder then put a new cylinder on fast for faster reloading.
Would this be safe?

I recently acquired a Remington 510 with a stock in very rough shape. Some kind of recoil pad was slipped over the butt and caused the butt plate to disintegrate and left adhesive residue. I'm treating this as a project build for my daughter, not a restoration. The factory stock is nice looking but ergononically subpar. Instead I wanted to replace it with a Boyd's thumbhole or regular At-One stock to take advantage of the shorter length of pull.

Boyd's does make stocks for the 510, but will this look completely awful?