I’d say I got my moneys worth. Gonna do pilot bearing, rear main seal, and input shaft seal. Clutch kit came with clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Anything else I should do while I’m in there? Anything easy to do on the engine that I may as well?

Realistically, how much could I sell my 2000 S10 base model, 2.2L, 5-speed manual, RWD for? It’s got 150k miles on it. The picture is from when the clutch pedal bushings went out.

The good
- New stainless headers and downpipe
- New front bearings with new rotors
- New steering assembly (Tie rods, Idler arm, Link bar).
- New clutch pedal bushings
- coolant flushed and replaced; no more Dex-Cool
- brake pads have plenty of life including rear drums
- new upper control arm bushings
- heater works really well
- replaced alternator along with new belt
- new starter

Details
- has had regular maintenance
- never overheated to my knowledge and has never gone above 225 F
- interior is complete but there are cracks and broken pieces; it has everything needed to operate.
- I plan on doing a little more maintenance like flushing and replacing all fluids. Possibly replace the valve cover seal and do a tune-up, including spark plugs and wires.

The bad
- is leaking oil from the valve cover; doesn’t lose much oil
- seeps from the rear main seal and the rear differential seems to have sealed itself back up but I plan on replacing all of the fluids that I haven’t already.
- Wheels on it are warped and don’t balance well; missing some beauty covers and hubcaps have another set that aren’t warped but need new tires.
- Ac doesn’t work; the plug broke not sure if that’s the main issue even if the plug wasn’t broken
- Putting a new blower motor in right now; it squeaks
- Minor body damage and one bigger dent on driver door.
- tailgate works but it has the normal semi fucked up release handle
- hood release handle broken but can still pop it with the wire.
- paint isn’t the greatest; has chipped-off areas but mostly looks fine from a distance.
- radio is locked; either gonna get the code or replace with a CarPlay system

Overall a good truck that definitely needs some love but it's nothing super necessary at the moment. I think it’ll last pretty long with routine maintenance.

Hey so I am curious about using these motor mounts instead of just welding up my own. I know it'll fit on my 454bbc but I'm currently wondering about my subframe and firewall fitment. It's definitely a tight fitment and I have the brakes and the steering column figured out but if anyone has done this before what did you have to do to make these work. It is a 1994 that original had the 4.3 and a 5speed stick.

Ps. I know it's the cheapest ones and I plan to look for more quality but similar ones but I'd rather weigh my pros and cons from given info first before I do all of that.

Thank you!

Well I’m finally back at it. Had to stop work on my Blazer while I planned my retirement and move. Removed the brake calipers to get them ready for blasting. Blasted the inner fenders, battery tray and vacuum ball mount to get them ready for powder coating.

The truck randomly shut off around a corner so I loss breaks and steering went into a tree it’s a 1991 btw

Recently put on a new back tire on the side that this noise is coming from, as well as a differential fluid change at the same time.

Was running on the full sized spare, the previous tire had a blow out from the last owner and a month later I finally got a new replacement, proper sized, off terrain, slightly thicker tread then the last tire, no rubbing marks on tire.

The noise only happens going on bumps and turning left for some reason (or sometimes really hard rights). No suspension rubber bushings looked out of place or anything, noticed some scratches on the inner rim but they seem to shallow for what this particular noise is. Ideas??

Can anyone identify the grey metallic paint color? No sticker in the glovebox. Top is WA7475

Pic is from the tail gate looking toward the front of the car, left hand side. I’m pretty sure it’s a brake line of some kind because my brake pedal suddenly became spongy. I just don’t know what this portion of it is called and if I can get a replacement. Sorry if I’m stupid (probably am) I just haven’t been able to figure it out even with diagrams lmao

My cattle dog twins chewed through the line btw for anyone wondering

Bought a POS Xtreme and got it running 😂
What’s your opinion on what the noise may be?

2000 2.2L owner and not an S-10 technically its a Sonoma but its the same little truck. First let me just say I am a fan of these mini vehicles/mini trucks. I've owned everything from big 2500 diesel rigs, regular half tons and now due to the high price of gas, and also partly bc of the build quality and lack of serviceability of newer vehicles, a couple of months ago I purchased a *very cheap* S10/Sonoma.

When I say very cheap, i mean very cheap. 400 bucks cheap. The truck however, reflected the price. It had been abandoned by the previous owner and tucked away in a corner of his barn for mechanical issues he couldn't fix. He was clearing out his property due to him moving and I basically rescued this little truck from the scrap yard... He was a very laid back outdoors/woods guy that in the few years he owned the truck he basically beat the crap out of it until it broke down on him. I say that bc, I could tell from the condition of the interior. He had trash, dirty carpet, and dirt everywhere. The official cause for parking it was "a bad rectifier" however he was the one who primarily diagnosed and did all "repairs" on the truck.. and when I showed up he told me that the motor turned and he had recently done the fuel pump.

He was asking like 600 bucks so I proceed to tell him to start it for me and when he went to put the battery jumper on the poles and handed me the keys to crank it, well it didnt even crank. no click. nothing.

So

I almost walked away right then and there.. However, I took a quick look at the dashboard and thats when I noticed what caught my attention- 100,000 miles... I knew they were original because even though the truck had been abandoned and was really dirty, I could tell from the engine bay that there were some components that looked relatively new. So I took a gamble, offered him the money and knew I was taking a huge gamble on this thing but hey, where else could you buy a whole truck nowadays for 400 bucks?.. The next morning I get to work on it and I start to notice a whole bunch of rigging to get around basic maintenance. I had to start with a battery. but by the end of the day I had discovered the issue: No starter relay. I noticed the guy had placed the shorter serpentine belt that doesn't feed the compressor, so no A/C, and it needed new hoses....

Fair enough. I plop the starter relay and it cranks..

didn't actually start.

But,...

now I know the motor is not locked up. :D

like the determined person that I am, I don't simply give up and continued to pursue. I was going to make his little truck start since I had now seen bigger signs of life...

like I mentioned that he had mentioned to me that he had recently done the fuel pump.. and he had cut out a hole in the bed to get to it so I took a quick look back there and noticed something.. The fuel pump wasn't actually plugged in! HMMM

but rather than just plug it back in, I wanted to confirm his word to me and see that it was a new pump so I took out the entire pump out of the tank and that is when I noticed what I think is the most critical discovery of my entire journey.

The pump was new alright. BUT here was the real shocker.. was when I looked INSIDE the tank. RED gasoline. and I mean like it looked like straight red clay mud. HMM gasoline is definitely not supposed to look like that.. The fuel filter on the "new" pump, completely clogged with rusty gasoline, and thats when It clicked.

The real reason this guy ditched this truck. Who knows how many fuel pumps this guy had been going through and how much money he had been spending on other parts when this truck ran with straight red mud and probably had all sorts of misfires and issues until he finally said f it and left it to rot in a corner of his barn...

Anyways I hoist the baby on my lift and I see the problem. Rusted 25 year old STEEL tank. Like was GM thinking? And this is in south east florida, where we don't have snow. Who knows how many of these truck actually ended up in the scrap yard with the exact same ending simply just over the gas tank!?. and simply I bet people just got tired of trying to chase down a seemingly haunted truck when it all could of been avoided by GM making a tank out of literally anything other than steel..

Sure enough. a quick search and I found that in more recent models like the 03 they had ABS tanks. I was lucky enough to find one on marketplace with a new pump close to me and for 100 bucks, woo hoo!.

I went out and bought it that same afternoon, came back and dropped the old rust bucket and plop the new one in, brand new fuel filter, lower it from the lift

and what do you know?

thing fires first freaking crank.

thing runs and idles like new.

I took a drive in my new (to me) truck and fell in love with it...

next day I went to tag it at the DMV and proceeded to drive the truck all over town.

I drove the truck out 60 miles to the beach and back. and everything was great.

Only thing was it needed brakes and the worn out pads caused one of the calipers to stick, but after you drove it for a while and just pulled over and pumped them, they would unstick and it would continue driving...

In order to arrive at that conclusion, I replaced the master cylinder, booster (a bitch to change), the ABS, both front calipers and hoses (they were on their way out) and literally the only thing left was that it needed new set of brakes and rotors..

This is when I made a big mistake. I basically figured that since the truck was running and functional, that I would go ahead and just put it up for sale, and let someone else take over since I was at the point where if I actually started to replace a lot of these old worn components that were more expensive, I would start to actually put more money into what I was comfortable with (it still had no A/C, and it needed paint).

I figured someone would fall in love with it the same way I did and would see that it would be repaired 100% and painted, to basically have a truck that was as close to its former glory as possible...

So I posted it for sale.. I was very clear in the description that the truck was by no means perfect, that it needed brakes, had no A/C and needed more money to make it fully functional and reliable. I asked for something like 1500 bucks and within a week I had a kid come buy it... I was very specific about the breaks, that he needed to pump them whenever he felt the calipers sticking and if he bought it and wanted to daily it he would need to fix that.

He nodded his head and agreed.

Well..

Kid drove it out of my driveway and not even 10 minutes,

he calls me

truck overheated.

Guy is on the phone telling me that "I should have told him it overheated" and basically telling me everything I just told him NOT to do just 10 minutes before...

I should have left it there and blocked his number.

But since I am probably too nice for my own good, I told him to tell me where he was stuck at and I went to go check on him. This is where he proceeds to break down as well and tell me "he was looking for a reliable truck" that he could "daily drive" and that again I didnt tell him it "overheated".. Well I asked him, and he told me to give him his money back. I could tell he was only just a kid (I am also in my 20s) and that he was biting more than he could chew so I went ahead and told him he made me waste my time and gave him his 1500 back.

I let the truck cool, and drove it back 10 minutes where it sat parked for the next couple of days until I could get my hands on it.

Basically I test drove it, checked the oil, and then checked it again.

No water.

however now I had developed some anxiety over it. The truck had over heated and I am not sure how this little motor could continue to hold on after that...

(1/2)

I lost the low and high beam functionality of my headlights. Initially, I thought it was the relay under the driver's side dash but after removing and bench testing it, that wasn't the problem. It appears that after 25 years of tilting the steering wheel up and down, two wires in the harness broke. See pic. I replaced the turn signal switch and the lights were working again. Hopefully this helps someone.

I have a 2002 Chevy S10 with the 4.3L V6, and it has an absolutely insane squeak that’s driving me nuts!

So far, I’ve replaced the serpentine belt twice with two different belts, along with the idler pulley, alternator, A/C compressor, water pump, and belt tensioner. Despite replacing all of those parts, the noise is still there.

Here’s what I’ve noticed:

- When the engine is cold, there’s no squeak at all.

- Once the engine warms up, the noise starts.

- It’s most noticeable at idle.

- When I give it some throttle, the squeak usually goes away. I’d say it disappears about 90% of the time, but not always.

I’ve tried spraying water on the belt to see if the noise changes, but that made no difference. I’ve also tried listening with a long object to pinpoint the source, but honestly, I still can’t tell exactly where it’s coming from.

I’ve even pulled the fan to see if that would help me track it down, but it didn’t really make a difference. The harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley seems like it might have a little movement, but from what I’ve read, some movement can be normal, so I’m not sure if that’s actually the problem.

At this point, I’d rather not keep throwing money at parts without having a better idea of what’s causing it.

Has anyone experienced this on a 4.3L S10 or run into something similar? Is there something I might be overlooking, or is there a common issue that causes a squeak only after the engine warms up and mainly at idle?

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’m trying to narrow this down before spending any more money on it.

I took a video of it and now I'm wondering if the AC compressor is whats causing the noise. I would like someone's advice before I do anything else with it. See video.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I recently checked on my s15 and the radio wasn't working, the cigarette lighter also wasn't working, if anyone could provide a wiring diagram for it that would be great thanks!

Like the title says I rebuilt a 2.2L engine stock other than an eBay intake and headers for my 2000 single cab manual but when I swapped it in and finally got it started it sounds like hell. I'm thinking it has to be something with a ground I'm missing somewhere but I can't seem to find it. The main ground is on the block just in front and above the oil filter, the strap that goes from the firewall down is on the bellhousing bolt with a nut, as are the two little black ground wires that are in one ring terminal in the harness down by the transmission. Any help is much appreciated.

I’m not super familiar with the 2.5L. Does anyone with a similar motor have advice on r134 conversion and heater core plumbing?

Hey all, I have a 1986 S10 with the 2.5L Iron Duke and recently I've noticed a ticking sound coming out of the engine. I'm not sure how to diagnose it and I want to ask y'all for input before I start tearing it apart lol. Attached below is a video of the truck idling. Thanks!

I want to make my blazer body matched on this part of the body instead of this textured black material, but this bit is quite dilapidated. Can this be removed, or is it just an adhesive layer on top like skateboard grip tape? Do I just sand it smooth?

So i have a 2001 GMC Sonoma. I replaced the fuel injectors. Now it runs terrible. It ran terrible before I did the upgrade cylinder 6 wouldnt fire before i did anything. It takes forever to start with the MAF plugged in and is hesitant to rev but idles fine. I know all the fuel parts are good, all of the cylinders are getting spark and air. I get a random misfire code and thats it. It runs better without the MAF plugged in starts easier but still terrible. When I replaced the fuel injectors it was because cylinder 6 wasnt firing. I replaced them with MPFI and i had it idle for a few minutes and smelt raw fuel and cylinder 6 still wasnt firing. I put a new plug in it now all the cylinders are misfiring. Its very hesitant to rev under load with the MAF plugged in and unplugged but revs a little better than without it plugged in. theres no vacuum leaks i did a smoke test. I know the MAP and MAF sensors are fine I swapped in known good ones. Its nothing spark related either all of those parts are brand new. Also all the fuel related things like the fuel pump are also brand new. Genuinely dont know what it could be at this point. It idles fine for the most part. It shakes a tiny bit but a vast improvement over before when cylinder 6 wasnt firing at all.

I am working on a 2002 Chevrolet S10 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's a 4 cylinder 2.2. It cracks but won't start. Fuel pump is working, I have spark, I have compression. When I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it won't start. Any advice?

1985 chevy s10 2.8 v6 700r4
Need to buy a replacement radiator, does anyone have any recommendations I want an all aluminum one.

New springs sag more under the camper, so I decided to install some upgrades.

Shackles do need to be trimmed a little to clear the frame properly, but sits nice and high with 300+ lbs (camper and gear)

Are the pre 98 2.2 liters just unobtainium these days, because I can’t find one within 3-4 hrs from me in any direction (NW NC). My 95 is weeping coolant through the head casting at the #3 and #4 spark plug wells. I don’t really want to spend $400+ for a head because I’m getting some noise from the bottom end, kinda sounds like lifters are trying to take a dump. I’m seriously considering putting a 22r and W58 combo in and be done. This little engine sounds like a diesel anyhow.

What should I expect to pay for a good used engine? What would you suggest I do? Anyone ever swapped a Toyota 22r into one of these? I’m not looking for V6 power or fuel mileage, this is just a slow and low audio truck and not a daily driver, even tho I have been every nice day! Love this little truck.

I have a 1996 blazer 4x4 and recently got it stuck in 4 low pushing my s10 in my garage. I checked the actuator underneath the battery tray and it doesn't seem to engage. When trying to put it in 4 high or 2 high the button just blinks and doesn't engage anything. I've also got a vacuum that seems to have a leak near the driver side of my blazer. My real question is that do I need to run new vacuum lines to get my actuator to engage or is there another reason this happens?