Like the title says I rebuilt a 2.2L engine stock other than an eBay intake and headers for my 2000 single cab manual but when I swapped it in and finally got it started it sounds like hell. I'm thinking it has to be something with a ground I'm missing somewhere but I can't seem to find it. The main ground is on the block just in front and above the oil filter, the strap that goes from the firewall down is on the bellhousing bolt with a nut, as are the two little black ground wires that are in one ring terminal in the harness down by the transmission. Any help is much appreciated.

I recently checked on my s15 and the radio wasn't working, the cigarette lighter also wasn't working, if anyone could provide a wiring diagram for it that would be great thanks!

Hey all, I have a 1986 S10 with the 2.5L Iron Duke and recently I've noticed a ticking sound coming out of the engine. I'm not sure how to diagnose it and I want to ask y'all for input before I start tearing it apart lol. Attached below is a video of the truck idling. Thanks!

I want to make my blazer body matched on this part of the body instead of this textured black material, but this bit is quite dilapidated. Can this be removed, or is it just an adhesive layer on top like skateboard grip tape? Do I just sand it smooth?

I’m not super familiar with the 2.5L. Does anyone with a similar motor have advice on r134 conversion and heater core plumbing?

So i have a 2001 GMC Sonoma. I replaced the fuel injectors. Now it runs terrible. It ran terrible before I did the upgrade cylinder 6 wouldnt fire before i did anything. It takes forever to start with the MAF plugged in and is hesitant to rev but idles fine. I know all the fuel parts are good, all of the cylinders are getting spark and air. I get a random misfire code and thats it. It runs better without the MAF plugged in starts easier but still terrible. When I replaced the fuel injectors it was because cylinder 6 wasnt firing. I replaced them with MPFI and i had it idle for a few minutes and smelt raw fuel and cylinder 6 still wasnt firing. I put a new plug in it now all the cylinders are misfiring. Its very hesitant to rev under load with the MAF plugged in and unplugged but revs a little better than without it plugged in. theres no vacuum leaks i did a smoke test. I know the MAP and MAF sensors are fine I swapped in known good ones. Its nothing spark related either all of those parts are brand new. Also all the fuel related things like the fuel pump are also brand new. Genuinely dont know what it could be at this point. It idles fine for the most part. It shakes a tiny bit but a vast improvement over before when cylinder 6 wasnt firing at all.

1985 chevy s10 2.8 v6 700r4
Need to buy a replacement radiator, does anyone have any recommendations I want an all aluminum one.

I am working on a 2002 Chevrolet S10 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's a 4 cylinder 2.2. It cracks but won't start. Fuel pump is working, I have spark, I have compression. When I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it won't start. Any advice?

New springs sag more under the camper, so I decided to install some upgrades.

Shackles do need to be trimmed a little to clear the frame properly, but sits nice and high with 300+ lbs (camper and gear)

My gf recently lost her car in an accident…
She needs a reliable car/single cab for mn winters, her commute is 80mi round trip a day.
We found this 102,xxx 1x owner gem.
Typical MN rust but frame was good, drove great, thoughts on if we can find a better $2000 car/truck?

Are the pre 98 2.2 liters just unobtainium these days, because I can’t find one within 3-4 hrs from me in any direction (NW NC). My 95 is weeping coolant through the head casting at the #3 and #4 spark plug wells. I don’t really want to spend $400+ for a head because I’m getting some noise from the bottom end, kinda sounds like lifters are trying to take a dump. I’m seriously considering putting a 22r and W58 combo in and be done. This little engine sounds like a diesel anyhow.

What should I expect to pay for a good used engine? What would you suggest I do? Anyone ever swapped a Toyota 22r into one of these? I’m not looking for V6 power or fuel mileage, this is just a slow and low audio truck and not a daily driver, even tho I have been every nice day! Love this little truck.

YMM - 2002 S10 ZR2 4.3L V6
MILEAGE - 173,324
TRANSMISSION - 4L60E (Automatic)

I own a Chevrolet S10 ZR2, and for the past month have been experiencing what I can only describe as surging when the truck attempts to shift into overdrive.

At 40+ MPH when the truck has a low-negligible load it surges in RPM’s +-100/500. On a load, going up hill, and in a turn the surge goes away. Below is every service interval and replacement that I have completed since ownership.

- Transmission rebuild (Done at a shop (Summer 2025))
- Suspension Upgrade
- Brake system replacement (‘24)
- Bank 1 Sensor 2, O2 Sensor Replacement
- Cat Delete
- LED Replacement of all bulbs
- Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
- Replacement of Vacuum Lines
- Passenger side Front ABS sensor Replacement
- 4x’s Wheel bearing replacement
- Distributor Cap and Rotor Replacement (‘23)
- Spark Plug replacement (‘23)
- Valvoline Restore and Protect High Mileage Oil changed every 2-3k Miles

This has been the only persistent issue that I cannot diagnose and am asking if anyone had experienced something similar and what the fix could be.

I have a 1996 blazer 4x4 and recently got it stuck in 4 low pushing my s10 in my garage. I checked the actuator underneath the battery tray and it doesn't seem to engage. When trying to put it in 4 high or 2 high the button just blinks and doesn't engage anything. I've also got a vacuum that seems to have a leak near the driver side of my blazer. My real question is that do I need to run new vacuum lines to get my actuator to engage or is there another reason this happens?

Took my truck in for an oil change and they gave it the ol ugga dugga and the threads vanished.

Thankfully they are replacing the pan for me which is quite the nightmare job. They got it all pulled apart and engine lifted enough to take the pan out only to find the part that the Chevy dealer sent was for RWD.... We are all finding every oil pan online seems to be rwd and will legitimately not fit.

Does anyone have any sources for the 4x4 pan? eBay is even letting me down.

My newly acquired '82 needs some love in the rocker/cab corner area. The cab mount bushings are also shot. Is it feasible or make any sense to remove the box then unbolt the cab and slide it back a couple inches instead of removing the front clip?

Just trying to figure out what gives me the best access with the least realignment.

I have a 1987 s10 most of the front end have ben replaced but I still have slop. the steering box is old though, would that be the first thing to replace? none of my ball joints have slop. It is the same as the video when the truck is running I tested both ways. thanks!

Has anyone seen a first gen s10 with Astro seats? It seems like it could be a good comfort mod if they fit well.

Hey guys!

This is a 1991 S-10 at my grandparents' house that has been sitting for maybe over a decade. (Not sure what the original issue was for it to stop running.) I'm 16, and as you can see, I've already cleaned a portion of it up, but eventually I would like to have it running again and I need advice and help. So if you have anything (advice, ect.)- let me know in the comments! I'd appreciate it.

Truck Info:

• 1991 Extended Cab Pickup 4WD - 4.3 Liter EFI Gas Engine
• 4-SPD. Auto Transmission

*- So From what I've heard, my great-grandfather bought this truck brand new in 1991. For years, it was the truck everyone could count on. It hauled, worked, and even pulled a tractor out of a bogged-down garden at one point. My pawpaw, aunt, and mother all have stories about the adventures and memories they shared with my great-grandfather and this truck.

*- Today, it has around 187,000 original miles and still has its original engine. Unfortunately, after it stopped running, it was left sitting in and over time, of course, it has started to deteriorate, and I’m afraid we could lose a piece of the family.

*- Another reason I want it running is, my grandmother has been dealing with serious medical issues for over a year now, and it has been an incredibly difficult time for my family—especially for my grandfather. He has had to deal with a lot while watching the person he loves go through so much.

So if you have any advice (or questions to be able to give some lol) let me know! I'm open to suggestions!

Hey everyone I just got a 2002 s10 4x4 I’m wondering what the name of the plastic piece that is missing under the bumper

https://www.reddit.com/r/s10/s/ywb59ibjHF link to the initial post

I really appreciate the advice I got on my last post and wanted to give yall an update with some of the codes I got

I tried limping the truck into town today using 1 and 2 gears to manually shift the truck and try to get it up to decent speed on the highway. The ABS and brake lights were still on, speedometer stuck at 0 despite the vehicle moving probably 25-30 mph, and the truck was unable to shift into higher gear and get up to highway speeds. This lasted about 2 or 3 miles when I saw the speedometer kick on and read about 34 mph. I pulled over to the side of the road and put the truck in drive and boom, I was able to get it up to 45-50 mph and drive into town like normal. Speedo working like normal, transmission shifting like normal. Brake light went off but ABS light remained on. By the time I got into town and got to oreilly’s (another 3-4 miles down the road) the ABS light had turned off. The truck continued to shift fine the entire way home. And all of the lights remained off. So it seems like this is an intermittent issue that may be affected by temperature?

They scanned for codes at Oreilly’s and it threw 3 for the ABS system:

C0236 left rear wheel speed signal missing

C0237 rear wheel speed signal erratic

C0265 solenoid control monitor error

This matches up nicely with a lot of the feedback I got on my initial post that it was more than likely a wheel speed sensor. I’ve done some research and found replacements for mostly FRONT wheel speed sensors and but I’ve also seen a lot of people say ZR2 models don’t have rear wheel speed sensors and this is controlled by the VSS on the transfer case.

Is anyone able to verify if ZR2’s have rear wheel speed sensors or if I should just look at replacing the VSS? I have no doubt I’d be able to do either at home I just want to be sure before I get a part ordered. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Driver side

I’ve got a 92 pickup with the 4.3, the motor definitely has a knock as well as bad valve seals and a couple other issues, so I’m gonna get another one. I’m either gonna get one off marketplace, or out of a scrapyard that I’ll redo the seals and gaskets on, or I was thinking about grabbing a reman motor. I’ve never gotten one before so I’m looking for some reputable suggestions as to be honest I’d rather save myself the time.

Po300 code and prominent shake when running

Pulled plugs, black on drivers side and white on pass side

I have a dead heater circuit and the live data has the driver's side upstream showing lean, but as the photos show, the plugs are black soot covered. I'm having a fuel leak down issue, but it certainly couldn't affect all 3 cylinder on a bank right?

Good compression between 150-160 in all cylinders

Got an new o2, but haven't installed because I want to be sure (ngk wasn't cheap)

Any other insight?