We have 97 year old brick fireplace, one of the prior homeowners painted it with this awful white acrylic or latex paint. We used Dumond Smart Strip Pro to remove the paint, and it did a good job removing those shiny layers of acrylic paint, however we were left with one thin layer of what i believe is oil based paint that wouldn’t go away. we reapplied Dumond Smart Strip Pro and left it for 36 hours this time but still it had zero impact on this last layer that wouldn’t go away and we are also noticing that the brick is wearing off. Can you pls advise what we need to do here and the safest approach since we have toddlers and a newborn. I included pictures of the before and after.

I already posted it in arthelp subreddit but thought y’all here could be helpful too since it’s about painting a wall.

I’ve been commissioned to make a sort of mural on an indoor wooden wall, and I agreed, but I need help finding paint that will work well on wood.

I have a few pieces of wood, exactly the same wood as what was used for walling the room I need to paint - took a bunch leftover planks for testing materials, if I need to sand it, prime it or what not.

The wood is not polished smooth, it has a little bit of texture to it.

I love working with chalk markers and this is how they turned out on this test plank. What I liked about it:

- They don’t bleed a lot

- They blend quite nice

- Opaque but I can thin them out with water to make a smooth transition from raw wood to color

- I’m able to layer them, work wet-on-wet, wet-on-dry

- Drying time 5-30 minutes (depending on how many layers of wet color I applied)

- I can reactivate it with water if I something got too dry and I want to blend it

So I’m looking for something with similar qualities, ideally if I could use the paint for bigger areas and markers for detailing or sketching out stuff.

Also the room I’m gonna paint is a changing room in a spa, so while I want my paint to be able to reactivate with water, my end goal is to make the finished wall art water-proof, humidity proof and just lasting in general, so I’d also need a top coat to work with that.

I tested the markers with no top-coat in some extreme conditions - I ran the wood under hot water for a few minutes (didn’t budge much under I started smudging it with my fingers - which is exactly what I need while working) and I’ve put it into a hot humid sauna for 4 hours (was fine), so I’m sure this is the type of medium I want to use.

There is no deadline btw and I don’t have strict time like „It has to be done within one day”, so it’s okay if I need a day of two for the paints to fully seep into the wood and another three days to apply and dry the varnish.

I don’t wanna paint with acrylics, hate acrylics because when they form a shell, it’s over, and even with a retardant… It’s not for me, I like going back and forth around my art pieces, so I’d like to avoid them altogether.

I’d also like to have a broader choice of colours, like dark bottle greens, warm browns - it’s hard to mix these with the set of markers I currently have available lol.

Acrylic gouache? Latex wall paint? What else is there?

We're painting our home Navajo White from Benjamin Moore, and Iron Ore from Sherwin Williams for the trim. We're not quite sure what to do with the wood panels that run across the body of the home. Should we do iron ore? Or should we paint match to the body of the home?

[House pictures](https://imgur.com/a/j3axeUP

I've used Bloxygen to keep a can of oil based paint from skinning when left over time. But that stuff's kinda pricey. I've heard canned "air" computer dusters can work. Anyone try that, or are there any other budget friendly Bloxygen alternatives? The worst part about Bloxygen is that it's so light, you don't know when the can's about to run out, and a little expensive to keep a spare laying around.

Going from dark green to white. This is one coat of primer. Is this enough primer or do I need a second coat?

Im currently painting my windows and on some windows i get small areas where the paint is peeling off my wood. I have sanded everything with p180 and wiped the dust away.

What have I done wrong or is it just the old Paint and I have to sand it all the way down?

I am remodeling my bathroom and doing the basic trim. Basebord and door casing. I decided to miter around the stubout for the toilet and now i want to fill the holes, and seams/cuts with something that i can sand and make them disappear.

I have used mh ready patch before and liked it but want other suggestions before i use it again.

Any tips on filling it and making these miters look great. And yes. It's behind the toilet and no one will ever see it.

Thanks

Hi all-

I feel a little silly because choosing the correct type of paint for each project feels way more complicated than I thought it would be and I feel like I’m finding different answers all over the place.

I’m wanting to paint a couple of different things. Gutters and downspouts (newly installed), fascia/soffits to match, and an exterior man door or two. For gutters, is sw emerald acrylic latex okay? Or something else? What type of primer do I need or no primer and just scuff it? Is emerald acrylic latex okay for the fascia/soffits and man door too? Primer or no primer? Thank you for any and all info and advice!

Sincerely,
Confused.

Not sure what this exterior cladding is, or what’s made of. House built around 30yrs ago. Wondering whether it could be painted. In subtropical Australia, so pretty intense sun (hence quite faded). Otherwise, wonder if it’d be cheaper to just replace it with new cladding. Any ideas welcomed.

The stucco and its paint coating are generally in excellent condition, but a color change was requested. There are a few stucco cracks which I can easily repair prior to painting. The house is in Los Angeles which gets an occasional earthquake.

Should I use elastomeric paint that's supposedly ideal for stucco rather than conventional paint to reduce future stucco cracks? Primer always seems to be recommended: Any objection to my using Kilz2? I've used Kilz2 successfully on just about every surface other than stucco.

Hi all! I’d appreciate any tips for painting our kid’s Halloween costume, a big LEGO brick.

We made it out of cardboard and duct tape, but struggling to figure out how to paint it all green. Doesn’t need to be perfect or smooth, but I don’t want things to absorb into the cardboard or chip off the duct tape parts. Any ideas??

I had originally planned to prime with Zinnser Oil-based Stain Blocker due to the damage to the wood. The exposed ends of the deck are in terrible shape (look shredded/ragged) but still firm to the touch—not structural and can’t afford to replace the boards this year). M

Sherwin Williams says don’t prime for decks and stairs when using their deck paint. Should I just lay two layers of paint?

Pictures in the comments if it will let me. Otherwise please imagine worn away or deteriorated paint on covered portion, ends as described above b

I have a room with Shipyard S500-6 eggshell. The original paint was applied almost ten years ago. The can was solid so I purchased a quart in the same color code and paint type.

It’s clear that the paint doesn’t match as the new stuff is darker.

I imagine the root cause is the darker paint faded over time due to multiple windows in this room. Is there an alternative way of matching the color (such as adding a few drops of white paint and stirring) versus painting the entire wall? Trying to cover up some chipped paint. Many thanks!

Got a dirty girl. Doing a TSP wash on wood sided bungalow. Would be nice to catch the chips that come off but not catch the water. Do you use a run of plastic insect screen or nothing or regular dropcloth and just let it dry out? Or...? thanks. Unleaded paint.

It will be 65 Fahrenheit during day, and 38 at night. Is this too cold for Emerald by Sherwin Williams for exterior? Or wait until Summer? 2/3 day project.

TLDR: First-time DIYer looking for sprayer to paint furniture. Affordable is desirable, but I’m willing to splurge up to $1500 for quality.

I’m a DIYer looking to purchase a paint sprayer. My first project is to paint some wood veneer nightstands my wife bought, but I’d like to have something versatile enough to use for future projects (painting walls, staining and painting furniture, staining/ painting fences, etc.) if such an option exists. I know absolutely nothing about painting, especially spraying. For what it’s worth, I’ve read that I should use BIN shellac primer on the veneer, which I originally planned to roller on (because the Wagner sprayer I bought advised against spraying the BIN).

I bought a Wagner earlex 5700, but I’m thinking about returning it as I read it’s not very good. Moreover, the guy at Sherwin Williams recommended and sold me Emerald Urethane, which I’ve now read is not a good option for the 5700.

My budget is $1500, but cheaper is better. Ideally, I want a machine that can give quality/ smooth finish on furniture and that could be used for other projects. Are there any good options out there? I’m not doing this for a living, so I don’t need anything overkill. I’d also prefer something that’s convenient to set up, use, and clean. I’ve seen conflicting reports of whether to get an HVLP or airless sprayer with a fine finish tip (since I’m not doing this for a living, I don’t need 100% perfection. 90% perfection is good enough).

I’ve read that the following could be good options:
- Fuji HVLP
- Graco Quickshot
- Graco X5

Thank you so much for the help! While my main question is about a good affordable diy sprayer, please feel free to give general advice if you have any tips.

Thank you!

Patching a few areas around the house and have flashing.

Is orange peel spray the answer? Never used it so advice here would be great - dial it to Fine and apply with circular motions?

Much help appreciated!

Duration has given me issues twice now on two separate gallons and two different dark colors. I have no idea what the issue is but I’ve never had it in the past… it’s almost like the paint will NOT stay “combined” and I can see the colors start to separate minutes after thoroughly stirring… then when I paint it on the wall to cut in- it looks like this. I know I’m brushing in different directions but I’ve always done that and it’s never looked so different before??

What is best, most user friendly paint brand for dark colors?

Thank you!!!

DIYer here.. Since I have the time I usually take the time to honor all the rules on the back of the can when it comes to humidity wind temperature etc. I've been honoring the sun rule as well which is hard because it's the south face so I get a little in the morning but with late October sun in a more more northern climate (Ill/wisco border) is that even gonna be an issue?

My exterior metal French doors are peeling bad. Either the previous owner did a landlord special, or I messed up the paint by letting 30 second house wash sit for too long. Either way I've got a situation now and don't know what type of paint would be best to prevent peeling again.

Do I completely strip the paint with chemicals? Or just sand it down? Any advice would be much appreciated!